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56 Cards in this Set

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What is the difference between regular yarn and sewing thread?
1) Yarns: Fiber assemblies intended for weaving, knitting, or otherwise combining into a textile fabric
2) Sewing threads: used for sewing together sections of garments or other products.
Characteristics of sewing threads:
1) High stability to bending
2) Good strength
3) Limited elongation
4) Minimal shrinkage
5) Good abrasion resistance
What will be the effect of increasing twist on the following yarn characteristics?
1) Yarn size: increasing twist decreases apparent yarn size.
2) Yarn strength: strength increases in staple yarns as twist increases up to a certain point.
3) Yarn abrasion: abrasion resistance is increased by tighter twist.
Tex
Weight in grams of a 1-kilometer (1,000-meter) length of yarn.
Denier
Weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn.
Linen count/linen lea
Number of hanks of 300 yards in 1 pound.
Cotton count
Number of hanks of 840 yards in 1 pound.
Which of the following pairs of yarns is finer?
1) 10s wool vs. 5s wool: 10s wool
2) 400 denier polyester vs. 300 denier polyester: 300 denier
3) 20s cotton vs. 10s cotton: 20s cotton
4) 20s linen vs. 20s cotton: 20s cotton
Stretch-texturing methods:
1) False-twist
2) Stuffer-box
3) Gear-crimping
4) Edge-crimping
Bulk-texturing methods:
1) Air-jet
2) Hot-fluid jet
Textured yarn:
A filament yarn in which the smooth, straight form of the fibers has been altered for stretch or bulk.
Carding
The process step in making spun yarns in which fibers are passed through intermeshing wires that separate and pull them into somewhat parallel form.
Combing
A process step following carding in making spun yarns in which the fibers are pulled through a comblike device into a more parallel alignment.
______ yarns have smooth surfaces & finer diameters than do _______ yarns. Because the shorter fibers have been removed, fewer short ends show on the surface of the fabric, and the lust is increased.
Combed, carded
Two types of yarn made from wool fiber?
1) Woolen yarns
2) Worsted yarns
Woolen yarns:
1) Soft & bulky
2) Many fiber ends
3) Fuzzy appearance & hand
4) Weak
5) Poor abrasion resistance
Worsted yarns:
1) Smooth, sleek, and compact
2) Fewer fiber ends on the surface
3) Better strength
4) Crisper hand
Why are ply yarns more likely to be found in better high-priced garments than in moderate to lower cost items?
Ply yarns are much more expensive than single yarns.
Purposes of blending:
1) Thorough intermixing of fibers
2) Combining fibers w/ different properties to produce yarns w/ characteristics that cannot be obtained by using one type of fiber alone.
Shed
The passageway between the warp yarns through which the shuttle is thrown in weaving.
Steps in weaving:
1) Winding yarns on the warp beam
2) Drawing-in
3) Winding yarns on the quill
4) Shedding
5) Picking
6) Beating up
7) Taking up/letting off
Fabric count/thread count
Number of yarns in one inch or centimeter of warp and in one inch or centimeter of filling.
What would be the fabric count if the fabric has 75 yarns per inch in the warp and 65 yarns per inch in the filling?
75 x 65
Balanced weave
When the number of yarns in the warp is similar to the number of yarns in the filling.
Unbalanced weave
Weaves with more yarns in the warp than in the filling.
__________ fabrics usually exhibit so-called rib effects created when number finer warp yarns cross over coarser filling yarns.
Unbalanced
Costs increase more rapidly as the number of picks (filling yarns) per inch increases; therefore, fabrics w/ ________ weaves or those w/ more yarns in the filling than in the warp are more costly to manufacture.
balanced
When warp and filling yarns intersect at right angles, the fabric is said to be . . .
true on grain or grain perfect.
When the yarns do not lie in the proper position, the fabric is said to be . . .
off-grain.
T/F: The extent to which a fabric is on true grain is an indicator of fabric quality.
TRUE
Effect of being off-grain?
1) Plaids and stripes do not match
2) Does not drape properly
3) Pant legs twist
Warp/end
The yarn running lengthwise in a woven fabric.
Filling/pick
Yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp in a woven fabric.
In a weave diagram, what does a darkened square represent? A light square?
1) Darkened square = warp
2) Light square = filling
What is the importance of selvage in a fabric?
Prevent loose yarn ends from fraying or raveling.
Plain weave:
Yarns at right angles pass over and under each other.
Characteristics of plain weave:
1) Wears well
2) Ravels less
3) Wrinkles more
4) Less absorbent
5) Easy care
Twill weave:
Each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns.
Characteristics of twill weave:
1) Drapes well
2) Shows less soil but harder to clean
3) Strong
4) Good abrasion resistance
5) Softer
6) Wrinkles less
7) Sheds soil readily
8) Wind resistant
Satin weave:
Each warp yarn floats over 4 filling yarns and interlaces with a fifth filling yarn.
Characteristics of satin weave:
1) Snags and abrades easily
2) High thread count
3) Low air permeability
4) Resists wrinkling
5) Yarn slippage
6) High luster
7) Smooth & slippery
8) Sheds dirty easily
What is the difference between satin fabric and sateen fabric?
1) Satin: warp floats, filament yarns, manufactured fibers, long floats
2) Sateen: filling floats, staple yarns, cotton, short floats
Three reasons why fabrics w/ the same weave can still have different appearances:
1) Drape
2) Shrinkage
3) Surface properties
The fabric stretches more in the ____ direction than in the warp or filling direction.
Bias
How can a jacquard loom create intricate patterns in a woven fabric?
It controls each warp yarn separately by threading it through a loop in the end of a leash or cord.
Texturing
Modifying the feel and bulk of filament yarns.
Simple yarns
Yarns w/ uniform size and regular surface.
Cord yarns
Two or more ply yarns.
Filament yarns
Long, continuous strands of fiber.
Monofilament yarns
Yarns made from a single filament.
Multifilament yarns
Yarns with many filaments.
Stape/spun yarns
Yarns made from staple-length fibers.
Single yarn
Staple fibers twisted together.
Ply yarns
Two or more single yarns.
Novelty yarns
Yarns made to create interesting decorative effects in the fabric.
Complex yarns
Yarns with more than one part.