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24 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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The Leather Industry |
*Leather and fur are the oldest, most sought after, and most glamorous of textiles. *Both leather and fur are animal skins One side of the skin is leather, the other is fur ~The leather industry is currently expanding its markets |
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Leather info
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*Preparing leather is a specialized, time consuming effort
*Orders require 8 to 16 months advance notice *The leather industry suffers less abuse than the fur industry from PETA as leather is mainly a by-product of the meat packing industry |
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History of Leather (1623)
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~Experience Miller establishes the first tannery in the American colonies ~Peter Minuet, Governor of New Amsterdam, invents the first machinery for tanning in the colonies |
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History of Leather (1809)
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*Samuel Parker creates a machine that splits hides 25 times faster than splitting by hand
*It also produced lighter, more supple leather, enabling enhanced production of shoes, boots and clothing |
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Organization and Operation (tanneries)
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*In 1870, there were more than 6,600 small tanneries in the U.S. *By 1879, only 4,500 tanneries operated in the U.S. because of:
~Overwhelming volume of shoe imports ~Stronger environmental regulations ~Sharply increased imports of hides *Most remaining domestic tanneries are located in the Northeast |
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Types of Tanneries
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Regular Purchase and process skins and hides into leather Contract Process skins and hides for converters, but are not involved in the final sale of the leather Converters ~Purchase skins and hides ~Commission contract tanneries to process ~Sell the finished product to manufacturers |
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Categories of Leather
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Equine, Exotic
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Equine
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Horse leather is used for shoes and jackets |
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Exotic
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*Supplies of “exotic leathers” are diminishing worldwide, driving prices up sharply ~American alligator skin was at a premium from 1967 to 1987, when the alligator was listed as an endangered species *Native American Indian tribes are raising bison and opened a tannery in Billings, Montana to make buffalo robes |
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Classification of Pelts
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Skins Less than 15 pounds Kips More than 15 pounds, but less than 25 pounds Hides More than 25 pounds ~Transforming these skins into leather requires 3 to 6 months, utilizing a process called TANNING
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Leather Processing
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*Tanning can be accomplished through the use of: ~Minerals ~Vegetables ~Oils ~Chemicals ~A combination of the above |
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Merchandising and Marketing
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*Because of the long lead times involved, leather forecasters are among the best and most experienced in the industry *To protect and broaden the market leather producers constantly broaden their range of colors, weights and textures |
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Trends in Leather
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The leather industry has changed because of three trends: ~Enlarging market opportunities ~Increased competition from synthetics ~Increased foreign trade
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Fur History and Development
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*By the Middle Ages fur announced ones wealth and status *In America, beaver was the most sought after fur at the turn of the 18th century. ~J.J. Astor owed his fortune to the trade *In 1900, the Chilean government backed a loan with chinchilla skins.
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Fur History and Development (2)
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*As beaver becomes scarce, Lincoln wears a silk hat to his inauguration
~The demand for beaver hats ceases overnight *Demand for fur remains strong among women ~Prince Edward Island, Canada starts farming furs in 1880 |
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Fur Fashions Change Slowly
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*Today’s market reflects the most varied list of popular furs ever: ~Mink holds a commanding lead with fox and beaver, in that order behind it ~“Contemporary” furs, a new category, include raccoon, fox, beaver, coyote, muskrat, tanuki (Japanese raccoon) and nutria (South American beaverlike animal) |
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PETA vs. Fur Industry
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People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals *PETA has staged a variety of protests and pickets *Other groups have raided fur farms releasing the animals, or destroying pedigree documents *Still others have confronted consumers, throwing paint on women wearing fur coats |
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Fur Industry Has Responded Strongly
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*Their argument Fur farms do not remove animals from the wild 95% of fur used comes from humane trapping Real fur does not use non-renewable petroleum-based products which pollute the environment Faux furs have grown in both quality and hence popularity recently.
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Organization and Operation
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Three groups, representing the three stages of production ~Trappers ~Fur processing companies ~Manufacturers of fur products |
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Pelt [Fur] Production
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~Trappers are the primary source of wild animal pelts
~The majority of furs come from farms or ranches ~Fur pelts are sold at auctions, much like they were in the 13th century |
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Fur Product Manufacturers
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*Manufacturers contract with fur dressing and fur dyeing firms to process them *Processing steps are usually performed by hand, although technology is turning it into a more mechanical process is by hand, allowing the worker to deal with each individual pelt’s color, quality and peculiarities *Innovations in 1989 by Fendi ~All fur can be reversible ~Results - lightweight, minimal bulk, fur that moves easily with the wearer |
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Retail Distribution of Fur
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*Happens in 1,500 stores nationwide Leased departments in department stores are common *Consignment selling, where the fur manufacturer supplies merchandise to a retail store on “loan”, are another example of retail distribution in the fur industry *Note that retailers have both off the rack furs and maintain their own pelts for custom work |
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Merchandising and Marketing
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*The Fur Labels Product Act of 1952 required: ~English name of animal ~Country of origin ~Type of processing to which pelt was subjected ~Whether or not parts have been cut from less desirable paw or tail sections |
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Four Trends in Fur
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1. Renewed fashion interest in furs 2. Increased foreign trade allowed for exports of high quality U.S. pelts 3. Legislation protects endangered species to the detriment of non-endangered species 4. New channels of distribution widen the audience: ~Mail order ~Hotel, armory and arena sales |
