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46 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Flat or hard
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made from solidified, extruded dope; one natural filament yarn; can extrude up to @1000 yds/minute; after solidifying fibers are "drawn" to strengthen, increase crystallinity and orientation-have abt. 6 mo. to draw, 875 yds/minute; no bulk; pack tightly together; are pretty and the shiniest; have either very little twist (no > 3-6 tpi) or a great deal of twist (>60); create water and wind resistant fabrics. #1 in luster, ease in cleaning, but #3 in cover ability. Flat like linguini, but much smaller.
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Network or Tape
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made from a film-stretched a little warm with some pressure from underneath, fibrillates (the little tendrils that come off) and splits the fibers; look like flat ribbon; bulky but not hairy; Ex. baling twine, bright orange; Network are made by adding air to dope, when drawn, while cooling, air bubbles burst and fibers split-a round yarn with holes throughout; never in apparel-lower tenacity than filament, poor crease recovery; Used in industrial applications; sometimes in carpet backing, baling twine, drawstrings, onion bags.
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High Bulk
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made to have greater covering power; 2 fiber types mixed-one with no latent shrinkage and one with high latent shrinkage; force it to shrink-no stretch remains and not comfortable to wear; the one that shrinks moves to the center of the yarn and draws together, the other loops, bubbles around it and gives you bulk, coil, and curliness and has more loft; can make guard hairs in synthetic furs; typically square or Y shaped so they don't pack tightly together; Used in high bulk sweaters, carpet, duffle bags, cloth suitcases, shoe laces.
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BCF (Bulk Continuous Filament)
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largest class; for greater covering power or apparent volume; 3 kinds-bulky BCF (very little stretch, and less bulk than High Bulk yarns), textured BCF (less bulk and a little stretch, but less than stretch BCF), and stretch BCF. #2 in luster, #3 in ease in cleaning, #1 in cover and warmth
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What is a common example of a tape yarn
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Used in industrial products in which bulk and low density are more important than high strength. They are coarse and usually used in carpet backing, rope, cord, fishnets, bagging, and furnishing support fabrics for which ribbonlike yarn is needed. Bright orange baling twine probably the most common example.
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What are the three common types of BCF yarns? Why are there 3 different forms
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Bulky BCF-add texture to regular filament yarns; no stretch; some craft yarns could be bulky and look like high bulk yarn;less bulk than High Bulk yarns, used for car mats, changing the yarn to bulk it up
Textured BCF-Less bulk and a little stretch, but less stretch than BCF - add texture and bulk-makes them harrier; reduce slipperiness, transparency; make them look more natural; increases insulation properties; more comfortable, not flat on skin; pill and snag more; polyester and nylon are usually textured in knits; as durable as hard/flat yarns; were originally applied to man-made fibers to reduce characteristics like transparency, slipperiness, and possibility of pilling, to make yarns more opaque, improve appearance and texture, and increase warmth and absorbency; easier to soil and harder to clean than hard/flat; give better cover, not as transparent as hard/flat; have better shape retention than hard/flat; less insulation than bulky yarns; better resiliency than untextured yarns; increased adsorbency (moisture stays on outside of surface better); multi-filament-so more surface area to hold moisture. Stretch BCF-yarns have loops, kinks, etc.; these pull out before fiber itself stretches; made from thermoplastics so they remember where to go back; almost always multifilament; high elongation, elasticity, and elastic recovery; 1st used nylon ski pants that were more fitted; now most popular use is nylon pantyhose-also leotards, swimwear. why 3 different forms? |
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How is texturing of filament yarns accomplished? Why are filament yarns texturized? (which is most important and cheapest?) (Which creates little or no stretch?)
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1. False Twist-always thermoplastic filament; twist, run over a hot plate, untwist-50-60 tpi can be inserted at very high production rates; gives a heat set spiral crimp; one of the most important and cheapest ways to add bulk and stretch to filament yarns; it's a shorter piece that has some give. 2. Air Jet-feed filament yarns into the warm air faster than they are drawn off; blast of air forces filaments into loops; angle, rate of air affect size of finished product; slow, costly, versatile; volume increases 50-150%-with little or no stretch; maintain size and bulk under tension because straight areas bear strain while loops remain unaffected. You have a few straight areas - can't do 100% - get a wrapping effect - the fibers wrap around the string - and you get volume from the other ones that are pushed around it - don't have a lot of stretch to them. 3. Knit Deknit-very expensive, not used very often in industry; flat yarns knit into narrow tube (10-20"); run fabric through heat setting machine; cool and unravel the yarn; if reknitted on same size needles it creates holes. 4. Stuffer Box-filament yarns are pushed into a heated box faster than they are drawn out; yarns come out heat set randomly twisted and curly; can control amount and shape of texture; creates some elasticity; originally used for Ban-Lon products - crimped in the rollers and sent through the box- a way to make a curlier yarn 5. Draw Texturing-uses POY-partially or un-oriented yarns; fed through double heater false-twist spinner, stretched slightly (drawn) and heat set-draw, heat, twist simultaneously; fast and inexpensive way to make textured bulky yarns. You can do it - don't need a middle man to do the drawing. Do all the processes one after another. Draw it and texture it all yourself. **Texturizing filament yarns gives them more stretch and bulk, greater cover, more breathability and absorption, better insulation, softer, feel more like staple yarns, BUT tend to snag more easily than regular filament yarns and fabric damages easier.
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What are the steps in ring spinning cotton? OCDCRSW (OCD crossword)
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1. Opening-480 lb. bales held together with wire; 4-5 bales are cut from 4-5 fields and 4-5 years; loosened, blended, cleaned, very short fibers removed along with soil, plant debris, etc. 2. Carding-start to make the fibers parallel; belts with bent needles start to align cotton fibers; removes dirt, noils (short immature fibers); end with fine, see-through web; web is condensed into a "sliver," a rope of fiber about the size of your thumb. 3. Drawing-6-12 rolls of sliver are combined, and stretched to the same thickness but 6-12x longer; then cut and redrawn multiple times; increases yarn uniformity; can blend fiber content. Big fat wad narrowed down - kinda like pulling taffy - Purely mechanical process - not drawing to increase strength-- it's drawing to mix and pull and lengthen. 4. Combing-removed all the short fibers and all debris; fibers < 1 1/8" removed; increases price of cotton yarn; if combed usually noted in yarn or fabric description; drawn again; 10-15X drawing not uncommon for combed cottons. Generally done to increase the fiber count range. Tend to be softer and yield more durability. 5. Roving-(the name of the process and the end product); reduces sliver, increases parallel alignment; the size of a pencil; very, very little twist; roving gets it ready for making into yarn; can be machine checked for defects. Goes into the back fat and is drawn down or roved - comes out thinner in the front. Preparatory process used only for ring spinning. Linear weight reduced down to a size that is optimum for yarn spinning. Draw it down, thin it out and put a little twist in it so it doesn't fall apart. Pull the sliver to make it smaller - from the size of your thumb to the size of your pencil. 6. Spinning-making the yarn-stretching the roving and making it thinner; add twist here; the most costly step; bobbins used to hold finished thread can hold 10-20 lbs each. 7. Winding-several bobbins are wound onto one large one; 7-8 are tied consecutively to each other. Joining - making the finished yarn.
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Why is ring spinning considered the best?
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Ring-spun yarns are finer, smoother, have better quality, are more uniform, and create fewer problems in fabrication. Ring spinning is more versatile than alternate spinning systems.
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Be able to define carding and combing and contrast the products of each type of yarn
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Carding partially aligns the fibers and forms them into a thin web that is brought together as a soft, very weak rope of fibers called a carded sliver (ropelike strand of fibers). Terms: wool=woolen yarns, cotton=carded yarns, linen=tow or hackled yarns. Combing produces a yarn that is superior to a carded yarn in smoothness, fineness, evenness, and strength. Combing aligns fibers in a parallel arrangement. It also removes short fibers so that fibers in the combed sliver will be more uniform in length. It is costly-1/4+ of the fiber is wasted. Terms: Cotton=combed yarn, wool=worsted yarn, linen=line or well-hackled.
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What other spinning systems are in use?
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OES or Open End Rotor Spinning-no roving formed; eliminates knots; forms larger packages or yarns; less supervision needed; speeds production significantly-outproduces ring spun 10:1; harsher hand and weaker yarns; more abrasion sensitive; gives more cover; more absorbent; more uniform and opaque; yarns are thicker than ring spun; preferred for toweling, pile fabrics, denim, sheeting, base fabrics for laminated fabrics, rugs, carpets. In OES, the sliver is separated so individual fibers are fed by an air stream and deposited on the inner surface of a high speed rotor. As the fibers are drawn off, twist is inserted by the rotation of the rotor. Higher twist at center of yarn.
Air Jet Spinning-finer yarns than rotor spun, but not as strong as ring spun; 2 nozzles facing different direction blow air against sliver; outermost fibers wrap around sliver making yarn; less elastic, weaker, rougher than ring spun and rotor spun; less fuzz than ring spun or OES, so cleaner in appearance; more lustrous; less uniform than OES, but more than ring spun; shrink less; dry faster than ring spun; use weft in newer denims which is why jeans dry faster today; used to create fasciated yarns; coarse filaments for strength and fine broken filaments for softness to improve fabric texture and hand; low twist staple core; surface fibers wrap around to provide yarn integrity. (see comparison of spinning methods on slides) Direct Spinning-can be done with modified ring spinning equipment; sliver goes directly into yarn; basically sliver is fed directly into the spinning frame and attenuated (reduced in thickness) farther to make yarn. Twistless Spinning-these yarns have no twist; just a roving, drawn out, wetted sprayed with sizing (glue), wound on a package, steamed to bind fibers together; fabric is woven then glue is dissolved; very stiff; in weft only and in tight weaves; not strong enough for warp or for knitting machines; soft hand, good luster, easy to dye, not good in open fabric structures; used in heavier upholstery and not in apparel. |
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Which one makes the strongest yarn?
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ring spun
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Softest?
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air jet
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Most absorbent?
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OES
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Which is most economical?
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Direct spinning-- the sliver goes right into the yarn(much shorter processing time), can be used on modified spinning equipment.
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Why would one system be used over another?
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The different methods are great for varying goods--EX: ring spun is preferred for knits, open end rotor spun is good for higher weight apparel and outside textiles, and air-jet spun is preferred for bedding and interior textiles. There are also different characteristics that go with each type of system as well. It would just depend on the specifics in a fabric that you are looking for as the end result.
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What is fiber blending?
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An intimate mixture of fibers of different generic type, composition, length, diameter, or color spun into one yarn. Mixing fibers at the lowest level of yarn production in a planned proportion (intimate blend) in single ply.
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Be able to define intimate blend
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both fibers are present in the yarn in planned portions but they cannot be separated, Are equally distributed and can't separate mixture-- refers to yarns of different generic types within a fabric, combination--ply yarns are used, at least one strand of the ply yarn is a different generic type from the other strands of the ply yarns.
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How does blending affect fiber characteristics?
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produces fabrics with properties that are different from those obtained from only one fabric, blends can give you better performance, durability and comfort, better texture and hand, reduce fiber costs, or obtain unique color effects.
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Spun yarns:
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continuous strands of staple fiber held together. This is the most expensive part of manufacturing fabric. Fuzzy with protruding ends. The longer the fiber, the higher the quality.
¨ Fabrics are cotton-like or wool-like ¨ Fiber strength is not well utilized. ¨ Dull, fuzzy look ¨ Lint ¨ Subject to pilling ¨ Soil ready ¨ Warm (not slippery) ¨ Loft and bulk depend on size and twist ¨ Do not snag readily ¨ Stretch depends on twist ¨ More opaque ¨ Absorbency depends on fiber ¨ Good for skin contact ¨ Less static ¨ Size expressed in yarn number ¨ Various amounts of twist used |
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Filament yarns
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filament yarns are made from filament fibers grouped together or twisted slightly
¨ Fabrics are silk-like ¨ Strength of fiber is well utilized ¨ Long continuous, closely packed strand ¨ Smooth, lustrous ¨ Do not lint ¨ Do not pill readily ¨ Shed soil ¨ Cool, slick ¨ Little loft or bulk ¨ Snaggin depends on fabric construction ¨ Stretch depends on twist amount ¨ Less opaque ¨ Absorbency depends on fiber, least absorbent type ¨ Static-prone ¨ Can be clammy ¨ Size in denier ¨ Usually very low or very high twist ¨ Least complicated process |
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Textured-bulk filament or textured
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bulk yarns are uniformly bulky yarns.
¨ Fabrics have the strength of filament yarns, but resemble the luster and hand of spun yarns ¨ Strength is not as well utilized ¨ Long continuous irregular, porous, flexible strand ¨ Bulky, dull ¨ Do not lint ¨ Pill less readily than spun yarns ¨ Soil more easily than smooth filament ¨ Warmer than smooth filament ¨ Lofty, bulky, and/or stretchy ¨ Snag easily ¨ Stretch depends on process ¨ Moderately absorbent ¨ Good for skin contact ¨ Can have static ¨ Size in denier ¨ Usually lower twist ¨ Moderately complex process |
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Twist
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the spiral arrangement of the fibers around the yarn's axis; produced by rotating one end of a fiber strand while holding the other end stationary. It binds the fibers together and contributes strength to the spun yarn. It is specified by the # of turns per unit length: turns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm). The direction can be S twist or Z twist. S will slant diagonally down to the right, like an S, Z will slant diagonally down to the left, like a Z.
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What are the common amounts of twist and for what purposes are they used?
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# Monofilament: no twist. Low Twist: 1 or 2 tpi. Napping Twist: 6-12 tpi. Average Twist: 20-25 tpi (most common for staple fibers). Hard/Voile Twist: 30-40 tpi. Crepe: 60-80 tpi (hard, stiff, and weak). The "Magic Zone": 20-40 tpi-this zone has the best abrasion resistance, strength, durability, and luster.
# What characteristics to these twist amounts impart to the yarns? <20=fatter yarns, less strength, more insulation, greater absorbency. >40=less strength, less insulation, less abrasion resistance, less absorbency, less luster and fuzz, more twist lively (too many yarns tightly twisted together weakens the yarn because they cut each other). |
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How are yarns sized? What systems are used? What is yarn number? Denier? Tex?
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Yarn size or fineness is referred to as yarn number. For filament yarns it is expressed in terms of weight per unit length. For spun yarns, it is expressed in terms of length per unit weight. With cotton, an indirect or fixed-weight system is used, meaning the finer the yarn, the larger the #. Denier: describes yarn size using filament fibers-term used for both smooth- and bulky- textured yarns. The weight in grams of 9,000 meters. Direct numbering system (finer yarn=smaller #). Helps determine end-use performance. Tex: determines yarn count or number in the same way for all yarns. Weight in grams of 1,000 meters of yarn. One tex is equal to .11 denier.
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What does this mean? Ne30s Which system is it?
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Ne=number english 30 single, the larger the number, the bigger the yarn. (ne, ncc, and cc all mean the same thing)
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Know the difference between single yarns, plied yarns, cords.
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Single Yarns - has one strand and is the simplest type. Ply Yarns: made by a second twisting operation that combines 2 or more singles; each part of the yarn is called a ply; a machine called a twister twists the plies together; most often twisted in opposite direction from which they were made; plying increases yarn diameter, strength, uniformity, and quality; ply yarns sometimes used in warp direction of woven fabrics to increase strength. Cords - made by a third twisting which twists the ply yarns together. (seldom used in apparel)
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Know the difference between simple yarns, fancy yarns, and composite/compound yarns.
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Simple Yarns - alike in all it's parts. Can be described as a spun or filament yarn and is based on it's fiber length. Fancy Yarns - yarns that are made to have unlike parts and are irregular either subtly or obviously at intervals which are regular or random. These are usually plied, but don't add any strength. Usually in the WEFT. The durability of the fancy yarns depends on the ply, how well it's held to the yarn, the fiber content, and firmness of fabric structure. Composite/Compound Yarns - Made of both staple and filament fibers. These are regular in appearance. Composite yarns include covered yarns, core-spun yarns, filament wrapped and molten polymer yarns.
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Why might a fancy yarn be introduced into a fabric?
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Fancy yarns add interest and texture to plain fabrics.
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Be able to name the parts of a fancy yarn.
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Foundation, core or ground-for strength and stability, usually a single. Effect-the irregularity. Binder-holds the foundation and effect together, usually clear monofilament like fishing line, in newer ones this is optional.
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Know the difference between covered yarn and core-spun yarn
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Covered Yarns-have a central yarn that is completely covered by fiber or another yarn. Consist of a readily separable core surrounded by a wrap or cover formed by one or more spun or filament yarns. Core-Spun Yarns-an alternate way to make a stretch yarn, made by spinning a sheath of staple fibers (roving) around a core. Consist of a readily separable core surrounded by fiber and suitable for use as a yarn. Include core/staple-fiber warp, staple-fiber core/filament wrap, and staple-fiber core/staple-fiber wrap yarns.
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Know the definition of weaving and the names of both sets of yarns
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Weaving is one way to create fabric and it is done on a loom. It is the process of producing a fabric by interlacing two or more yarns at right angles. The two sets of yarns are warp and weft. The warp is threaded through the loom parallel to the selvage (lengthwise, "ends"). The weft is the crosswise ("picks") yarn.
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Know the required parts of the loom. Simply put, how does a loom work?
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Loom Parts: Warp Beam in the back holds all warp yarns. Harness holds the Heddles which holds different warp yarns. More complex looms have more harnesses. The Reed or Batten is pulled forward to press weft yarns into the fabric. The Shed is the space through which you throw the Shuttle (thing that holds the weft/Filling yarn). The Clothing or Fabric Beam holds the finished fabric.
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What are three common kinds of looms in use today? Why are they called “shuttleless?”
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Shuttleless looms are more common than shuttle looms because of their ability to reduce noise and increase weaving speed and versatility. Shuttleless looms include air-jet, rapier, and water-jet. They are called this because something else is used besides a shuttle to take the filling/weft yarn through the shed.
Air-Jet Looms: dominant in sheeting and denim weaving. Water-Jet Looms: suction removes excess water from the fabric, drying the fabric is an extra cost. It’s more compact, takes less space, and quieter, but can only really be used on more hydrophobic fibers. Uses high pressure jet of water. Rapier Looms: primarily for spun yarns, extremely fast (up to 1000 picks per minute), used for basic cottons and woolen/worsted fabrics, more flexible than air-jet looms. Triaxial Looms: 3 sets of yarns, faster to make because of fewer picks per inch, NO BIAS STRETCH-stable in every direction. Used in balloons, air structures, parachutes, sailcloth, truck covers, other technical products. Also for decorative fabrics. Circular Looms: used to weave bags and pillowcases. |
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What are the main characteristics of woven fabrics?
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All yarns in interior and apparel woven fabrics interlace at right angles to one another. An Interlacing is the point at which a yarn changed its position from one side of the fabric to the other. When a yarn crosses over more than one yarn at a time, floats are formed and the fabric has fewer interlacings.
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How do warp yarns differ from weft yarns? What purposes does each set serve?
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Warp and filling yarns meet different needs and can be different from each other.
Warp must withstand high tensions from the loom plus abrasions from weaving. It is therefore stronger and more uniform than filling. Filling yarns are more often fancy or special. –function (e.g. high twist crepe, low-twist napping, boucle). Differentiating Warp and Weft: Selvage matches warp direction. Less elongation in warp direction. Warp yarns are straighter and more parallel because of loom tension. Fabric characteristics may differ-poplin has a filling rib (heavier weft), satin has warp floats. Warp yarns are smaller, more uniform, with higher twist. More crimping fabric in filling direction due to up and down position of filling yarns. Warp yarn counts are higher than filling yarn counts. If yarn dyed stripes are present they are usually in the warp direction. Pinging-warp “pings” at a higher tone (when pulled taught makes ping noise). |
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What is grain? What is off grain and how does fabric become off grain in production?
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Grain: refers to the geometry or position of warp yarns relative to weft yarns in fabric. Fabric that is “on grain” has parallel warp yarns that are perpendicular to the weft. Lengthwise grain is parallel to the warp. Crosswise grain is parallel to the weft. Clothes won’t hang correctly if the fabric is off grain. Off-grain-handling, finishing, or stress due to yarn twist, weave, or other fabric aspects may cause fabrics to distort and become off-grain. When used with a print, you will see that the print does not follow the yarns or a torn edge.
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What is fabric count? How is it expressed? Why do we care about count?
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Fabric Count (also called count or density): refers to the # of yarns per square inch of gray (greige) goods (unfinished goods). Warp is written first, e.g. 80 by 76, read as “80 by 76” or may be written as the total of the two, 156. Count indicates quality-higher is better. Higher may mean less shrinkage and less raveling.
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What is balance? How do we use balance to understand fabric?
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Balance: the ratio between warp yarns and weft yarns. Balanced fabrics have 1:1. Unbalanced have significantly more of one set of yarns than the other. Balance helps identify fabrics. Balance plus count helps predict slippage (where the weave separates at seams or stitching). Low count=more slippage in unbalanced fabrics.
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5 receptors involving Gq?
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"HAVe 1 M&M":
1. H1 2. alpha1 3. V1 4. M1 5. M3 (unique in this group) |
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Be able to name the fabrics from the swatch test that appeared in Ch 12 in terms of their weave, balance, or count (e.g. muslin has a lower count than percale)
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Plain Weaves: broadcloth-unbalanced, chambray-usually balanced 80x76, challis, chiffon-high fabric count, crash, faille-unbalanced rib fabric, flannel, flannelette, gingham-count 64x60 to 64x76 when carded-higher when combed, muslin-common sheet counts are 112, 128, or 140, percale-much higher thread count than broadcloth-80x80 to 64x60, plisse-count 80x80 to 64x60, poplin, shantung, tissue faille, tweed. Basket Weaves (look balanced): Duck and Oxford Twill Weaves (high counts possible): chino, gabardine, herringbone, houndstooth, serge, ticking Satin Weaves (high counts possible): satin-high fabric count, crepe-back-satin, charmeuse
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What are basic characteristics of plain weave?
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Simplest of the basic weaves.-Yarns at right angles pass alternative over and under each other. Greatest number of interlacings possible. -2 harness loom, cheapest to make. -1/1 weave, one harness up one harness down. -No technical face or back unless printed. -Wrinkle easily, less absorbent, less raveling.
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Basket weave?
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2 or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harness and two or more wefts in the same shed. -Interlacing similar to plain weave but two or more weft follow the same parallel path. -Half basket=Only one yarn set is grouped
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Twill ?
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Each warp (or filling) yarn floats across 2 or more filling (or warp) yarn with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line, or wale. -A "float" is the portion of the yarn crossing over multiple yarns from the other direction
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Satin?
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Fabrics are lustrous because of the long floats. -Few interlacings means the yarns can be packed close together to make a very high count fabric. -Can resemble twill on the back unless carefully examined. -These are unbalanced but the high thread count compensates. -Face and back look significantly different. -Strong, durable, firm, good body, wind repellency because of high count. -Fewer interlacings imparts pliability and wrinkle resistance, but yarns can slip and ravel easily.
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What is sateen?
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A lustrous fabric made of spun yarns. In order to achieve luster with staple fibers, medium-twist yarns form the float surface. Finishes are used to enhance the luster and durability.
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