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83 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Woven Fabrics Made by
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interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles
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Warp Yarns
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VERTICAL yarns
-Ends -Risers |
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Filling yarns
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HORIZONTAL yarns
-Picks -Sinkers |
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Selvage
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Lengthwise edges of the fabric
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On grain
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fabric cut parallel to warp or filling yarns
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off grain/ bias
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fabric cut NOT parallel to warp or filling yarns
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Woven fabrics have best drape in
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BIAS direction
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woven fabric is produced on a
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loom
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Heddles
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thin vertical wires
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V-like opening through which shuttle passes
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Shed
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Shuttle
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wooden device with a bobbin placed inside with a filling yarn wound around it
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comb-like device that pushes filling yarn in the shed into body of cloth
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reed
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sequence in which harnesses are raised or lowered determines
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weave
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Cloth roll
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front of loom
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warm beam
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back of loom
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Most looms today are
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shuttleless
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Projectile loom
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uses projectile to insert filling yarns
-most versatile -strong fabric |
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Rapier loom
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uses rapier rod or steel tape to pull filling yarn across loom
-makes large patterns -fine threads -high quality wool & silk fabrics |
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Jet looms
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use a high-speed jet of air or water to take filling yarn across loom
-fastest -limited versatility |
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Air-Jet looms
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used for spun or filament yarns
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water-jet looms
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-no relay nozzles just main nozzle
-good for HYDROPHOBIC fibers |
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multiphase loom
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-uses multiple sheds
-large output -light to medium weight fabric |
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rate at which warp yarns pass through the loom determines
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picks per inch which affects tightness or loseness of fabric
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5 features of woven fabrics
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- selvage
- warp & filling yarns - face and back - top & bottom - yarns per inch |
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Selvage is stronger than body of cloth
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- more warp yarns per inch
- plied warp yarns - greater twist |
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2 products where selvage is left in tact as a finished edge of the fabric
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sheets & bath towels
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Warp yarns ALWAYS
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parallel to selvage
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Warp yarns
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- thinner
- more of them - stripes - less stretch |
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Face & back
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-face has better appearance & usually used for outside of garment
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Face Side
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can have top & bottom
-usually caused by weave or finish |
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Yarns Per Inch/ Fabric Count
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(epi x ppi)
(warp x filling) |
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Thread Count in sheets
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(epi x ppi) add together
(100 x 100) = 200 thread count |
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Higher yarns per inch
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-better quality
-strength -weight -better hand -less distortion -better abrasion resistance |
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Float
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when one yarn does not interlace with the next adjacent yarn but passes over 2 more adjacent yarns
**increase luster **snagging problem |
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3 Types of weaves
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-plain
-twill -satin |
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Plain weave
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simplest and most used
-poor luster -good snag resistance -flat surface -low tearing strength -poor wrinkle resistance -good abrasion resistance **good for printing and embossing desgins **made with only harnesses |
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Ex: of Plain Weave Fabrics
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Chambray
Chiffon Taffeta Gingham |
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Twill Weave
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-Fair luster
-Good snag resistance -Twill lines on surface -Medium Tearing Strength -Fair wrinkle resistance -Good Abrasion resistance |
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Satin Weave
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-Good luster
-w/long floats poor snag res. -smooth surface - High tearing strength - Good wrinkle resistance - Excellent abr. resistance |
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Ribbed Plain Weave
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-Filling yarns thicker than warp
(ex: bengaline) poor abrasion resistance |
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Plain weave
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simplest and most used
-poor luster -good snag resistance -flat surface -low tearing strength -poor wrinkle resistance -good abrasion resistance **good for printing and embossing desgins **made with only harnesses |
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Ex: of Plain Weave Fabrics
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Chambray
Chiffon Taffeta Gingham |
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Twill Weave
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-Fair luster
-Good snag resistance -Twill lines on surface -Medium Tearing Strength -Fair wrinkle resistance -Good Abrasion resistance |
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Satin Weave
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-Good luster
-w/long floats poor snag res. -smooth surface - High tearing strength - Good wrinkle resistance - Excellent abr. resistance |
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Ribbed Plain Weave
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-Filling yarns thicker than warp
(ex: bengaline) poor abrasion resistance |
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Basket Weave
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groups of 2 or more warp yarns interlacing with groups of 2 or more filling yarns
(ex: monk's cloth) (2x2) |
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Right-hand twill
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diagonals run up and to the right
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Left-hande twill
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diagonals run up and to the left
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Ex. of Twill Weave fabrics
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gabardine
chino denim |
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Direction of twill on back of cloth
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opposite to that on front
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Most twills made with
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6 or fewer harnesses
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balanced twill
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has warp and filling showing to the same extent on the face
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Steep twill
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a twill weave with a diagonal line greater than 45 degrees
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reclined twill
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a twill weave with a diagonal less than 45 degrees
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twill lines made more prominent by:
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- using plied yarns
- longer floats - high yarns per inch |
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Broken Twill weave
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combines right and left-handed twills
(ex: chevron, herringbone) |
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Satin Weave
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has only one interlacing for each warp and filling yarn in each repeat of the weave
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warp-faced satin
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face is predominantly warp yarns
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filling-face satin
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filling yarns predominant on the face
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There are NO
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balanced satins
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Satin weaves are designated by the # of
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harnesses they require in weaving
(5 lowest possible and most common) |
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Sateen Fabric
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durable cotton fabric usually with a filling-face satin weave
(used in military uniforms) |
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crepe-back satin
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warp yarns fine with little or no twist, filling yarns highly twisted
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Strongest Fabric Made with
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long floats b/c fabrics are made with the greatest number of yarns per inch
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Fewer interlacings mean
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more yarns per inch
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Leno Weave
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Warp yarns form figure 8s twisted around filling yarns
**no slippage **great firmness and strength (ex: mosquito netting, packaging of fruits & vegs) |
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Used to make Chenille Yarns
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Leno Weave
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Woven pile-fabrics
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material with raised hair-like or fur-like surface
-have extra set of yarns (ex: velvet, terrycloth) |
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Warp-pile fabric
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have extra set of warp yarns
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Filling-pile fabrics
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have extra set of filling yarns
**ALWAYS CUT (ex: corduroy, velveteen) |
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When pile yarns are cut =
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cut-pile weave fabric
(ex: velvet) |
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When pile yarns are NOT cut =
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uncut-pile weave fabric
(ex: terrycloth) |
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Napped Fabric
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fibrous surface producedby brushing fibers up during finishing process
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double cloth
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* very expensive
-2 fabrics held together by a separate set of pile yarns |
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2 types of double cloth pile weaving
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V-Shape
W-Shape |
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V-Shape
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interlaces with 1 yarn
-more dense |
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W-Shape
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interlaces with 3 yarns
-more secure |
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Terrycloth
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loops in fabric formed by having extra set of warp yarns raised by wire
-weaved on 2 warp beams |
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dobby pattern
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design that contains simple geometric forms or motifs
-made on a loom with a dobby head(ex: lining, shirting, tuxes) |
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Jacquard Pattern
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design that contains very detailed, intricate motifs
- loom with NO harnesses, uses jacquard head & heddles (ex: labels, damask, tapestry) |
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Clip-spot pattern
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extra yarns interlact in fabric to form simple design then float until yarns again interlace to repeat pattern
(ex: dotted swiss) |
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Color-and-weave effect
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pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and diff. colored yarns in both warp and filling
(ex: houndstooth) |
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Factors affecting cost of Woven Fabrics
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- Fiber content
- Yarn type - Construction |
