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157 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Care Instructions
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a series of directions describing procedures for refurbishing/renewing a product without adverse affects
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Care Labels
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labels that give directions for cleaning; symbols may be used to alleviate the need for multiple languages
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Rating
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the process of determining or assigning a grade to a material by comparing it to a standard reference scale
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Grade
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the symbol, number or letter used for any step in a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic
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Reference Scale
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a series of photographs, replicas, colored chips or paired gray chips that represent a range of visual changes likely to occur during testing
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Rater
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an individual who understands the process and procedure and grade distinctions; ability to recognize minor differences
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Gray Scale for Color Change
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visual test used to evaluate color changes in color textiles; consists of paired chips varying from light to dark gray
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Color Change
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is an alternation in color of any kind, lightness, hue or chroma or any combination
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Gray Scales
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are used because it isn't practical to develop scales for every possible color
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Gray Scale for Staining
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to evaluate staining of undyed materials during colorfastness testing
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Colorant Staining
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the unintended pickup of colorant by a substrate due to 1) exposure to a colored or contaminated liquid medium or 2) direct contact with dyed or pigmented material fromwhich colorant transfers by direct sublimination or mechanical action
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Multifiber Test Fabric
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tests fabric in which the filling yarns are made of different fiber content;dye tends to only bond with certain fibers and therefore some bands of fabric will staindarker/lighter and others possibly not at all; specimens should be compared so fiber stripesare in the same order
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AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale
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uses 30 color chips from five hue families (red, yellow,green, blue and purple) in rows/columns from lightest to darkest
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Specimen Selection
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is not as particular as with durability testing; issues usually relate to theprocess not the location
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Fast
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color change occurs slowly and bonds well; do not bleed during use/care
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Fugitive
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may degrade and change color quickly due to things like sunlight, perspiration,chemicals in cosmetics/deoderants; weak bonds and migration are issues
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Migration
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is non-uniform movement & distribution of colorants, finishes or other chemicals fromone material to another; migration helps dye travel to different parts of the fabric but alsocauses bleeding issues
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Bleeding
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the loss of color from textile materials in wet processing into the solution and maybond with other materials
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Colorfastness
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color loss and color transfer
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Color Loss
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when washing removes excess color that was not rinsed off after dyeing
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Color Transfer
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when dye rinses off one material and bonds with or stains another
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Dimensional Change
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refers to any alteration or modification in the dimensions of a material, component,or product during finishing, manufacturing or care
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2 Types of Dimensional Change
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shrinkage and growth
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Most common type of dimensional change
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shrinkage
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Growth
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increase in dimensional change
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Shrinkage
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decrease in dimensional change
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Types of Shrinkage
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relaxation, residual, felting, heat, progressive, and consolidation
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Relaxation Shrinkage
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occurs in first care cycle due to tension in yarn spinning during production that is notpresent after the garment is created and washed
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Residual Shrinkage
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relaxation shrinkage that occurs after the first care cycle
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Felting Shrinkage
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unique to wool/wool blends and is permanent; wool scaling interlocks due to heat and wateragitation
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Heat Shrinkage
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occurs with high temps; affects synthetics and manufactured goods improperly heat set
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Progressive Shrinkage
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occurs a little each time it is laundered; hard to assess. Cotton & rayon
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Consolidation Shrinkage
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occurs when a fabric is gently agitated in water
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Testing Methods for Appearance Alteration During Cleaning
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AATCC 124 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
AATCC 179 Skewness Change in Fabric and Garment Twist |
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AATCC 124 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
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evaluates the smoothness offabric after at least 1 care cycle
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AATCC 179 Skewness Change in Fabric and Garment Twist
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specimens are marked and measured todetermine if skew occurs from laundering
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Testing Method for the Durability of Finishes
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ASTM D 2051 Durability of Finish of Zippers to Laundering
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Dry Cleaning
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a process that uses organic solvents rather than water as the basis of the cleaning solution;water and detergent may be added to help remove soiling
• Good at removing oily and fatty soils • Reduces wrinkling and creasing that occurs in normal laundering |
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Multiprocess Wet Cleaning
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an alternative to dry cleaning, which uses controlled applications of heat, steam,natural soaps and pressing techniques. An environmentally safe alternative
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Colorfastness in Dry Cleaning
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not the same as home laundering; colorants respond differently
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Spot Cleaning in Dry Cleaning
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may be tested for color migration
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Dimensional Changes in Dry Cleaning
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less pronounced in dry cleaning than laundering; may be progressive
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Durability Issues in Dry Cleaning
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finishes may not be durable; buttons are often damaged
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Assess Soil Redeposition
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the soiling of a relatively clean fabric during laundering by soil removedfrom another (redeposited)
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Stain
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a local deposit of soil or discoloration that exhibits some degree of resistance to removal bylaundering/dry cleaning
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Testing Methods for Stains
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• AATCC 130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method; remaining stain is evaluated by AATCC stain release scale
• AATCC 193 Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance Test can be used to test stainresistancy • AATCC 118 Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test; detects fluorochemicals & finishes making the surfaceharder to wet (similar to dropping water on fabric but done with oils) |
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Bleaching
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done during finishing of fabric to achieve level/uniform dyes & prints; produces abright, clear white
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Chlorinated compounds, peroxides and sodium compounds
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these remove stains but may alsodamage the material or fibers
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AATCC 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering (common chlorinebleach)
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launders items 5x in homestyle washer with predetermined settings for bleach, temp,detergent and agitation
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AATCC 172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
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evaluates interaction ofbleaching chemicals, detergent solutions and abrasion during laundering
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AATCC 190 Colorfastness to Home Laundering with Activated Oxygen Bleach Detergent
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simulates 10+ home launderings, tensile strength may be affected by bleach/bleaching agents as it can damage fibers
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Whiteness
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consumer perceptions are based on bright almost bluish white; may contain a smallamount of yellow or green though not as desirable
• White fabrics may discolor with time and use • White fabrics may yellow and appear dingy |
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Wrinkle Recovery
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the ability of a fabric to recover from folding deformations
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Testing Method for Wrinkle Recovery
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AATCC 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics; Appearance Method tests for recovery of wrinkles after a24hr period of hanging after specimen was twisted and compressed in the AATCC wrinkle tester
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Why does clothing storage matter?
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resistance to insects, resistance to fungus and bacterial, resistance to aging, and resistance to dye transfer
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Resistance of Insects
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(particularly wool/animal hair and soiled textiles) the capability toimpede damage by insects by treating materials with chemicals; comparison of treated anduntreated specimens
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2 types of resistance to fungus and bacterial
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mildew resistance and rot resistance
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Mildew Resistance
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the resistance to developing fungal growths/musty odors when exposed to favorable growing conditions
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Rot resistance
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the material’s resistance to deteriorating from fungal growth
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Antibacterial Finishes
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include chemicals that kill bacteria or interfere with the multiplication, growthor activity of bacteria
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Resistance to Aging
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an issue with textiles treated with sulphuric dyes (usually cellulosicfibers); creates brittle fabric and tears easily. Specimens are steam aged for strength loss
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Resistance to Dye Transfer
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the movement of chemical, dye or pigment between fibers withina substrate or between substrates; temperature and humidity intensifies the problem & createsstaining
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Why affects colorfastness?
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heat, acid and alkalis, frosting, crocking, perspiration, and water
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Heat & Colorfastness
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can cause staining/color change; hotpressing for shaping and smoothing using dry or wetheat (i.e. creating pleats) color change is evaluated for heat effects
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Acid & Alkalis & Colorfastness
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can create issues with colorants (i.e. foods, cosmetics, soaps, etc…); specimens areexposed to various elements and evaluated for color change
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Frosting & Colorfastness
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or a white cast appears when dye does not penetrate the fiber well and abrasion occurs;colorfastness due to abrasion is evaluated
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Crocking & Colorfastness
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is the transference of color from one material to another; wet materials increase thetendency of crocking
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Perspiration & Colorfastness
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is a saline, acidic fluid and can create problems with colorfastness; simulated solutiontests fabric by pressing them together and evaluating for colorfastness
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Water & Colorfastness
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may be exposed to a material and evaluated for color change; many dyes dissolve inwater so bleeding may occur; water spotting is a potential issue
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Cold Water Bleed & Colorfastness
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places damp/wet fabrics contact with others for 18-24 hours and evaluated for colorchange
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Environmental Conditions & Colorfastness
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things like atmospheric contaminants (pollutants, fumes,gases) that can affect colorfastness of garments/materials particularly fading
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Light & Colorfastness
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has the potential to damage colorants and materials; tests vary based on lightsource and intensity. Combining light with water and humidity also affects results. Fading isevaluated.
- Lightfastness - Photochromism |
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Lightfastness
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the property of material, expressed numerically, describing a rank in colorchange from exposure to a designated light source
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Photochromism
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a qualitative designation for reversible change in color that terminates afterlight exposure ends
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Weathering & Colorfastness
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affects strength and durability (along with light) creating fabrics that areweaker, more brittle and sensitive to abrasion after exposure to light• Weather resistance
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Weather Resistance
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the ability of a material to resist degradation of its properties whenexposed to real or simulated climatic conditions
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Specifications Identify:
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• The test method to be used
• The measure of performance desired • And may be written as minimums or maximums to specify acceptable levels of performance |
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Why is color important?
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• Consumer acceptance and demand
• It influences purchase decisions |
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Why does color selection occur early in the production process?
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1. Because of fashion
2. Because it is time consuming |
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Why is color consistency important? What does it affect?
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• Texture
• Fabric • Materials within the garment |
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Color
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the sensation resulting from stimulation of the retina by wavelengthsof light
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Wave
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a form of energy
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Wavelength
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the distance from one crest to the next
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Frequency
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the number of crests that pass a point in 1 second
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Amplitude
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the height of the wave crest
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Visible Light
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the portion of the electromagnetic spectrum that allows us toview light
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White Light
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all wavelengths are visible in equal proportions
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Infrared Region
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these wavelengths are longer than visible light
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Ultraviolet Region
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these wavelengths are shorter than visible light
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Light Absorbtion, Transmission, Refraction and Reflection
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light energy is absorbed,transmitted or refracted; absorption means it is taken in by another object,transmission means energy passes through the object with no change andrefraction means light crosses the materials and bends, reflection means thedirection of the light movement is changed
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Scattering
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when light is reflected at an angle and the reflection goes manydirections
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Selective Spectral Absorbers
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Most objects are selective spectral absorbers – absorb only some wavelengths oflight
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Nonspectral Colors
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do not occur in any natural spectra by 1 wavelength oflight(i.e. brown or purple)
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Spectral Colors
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colors found in the spectrum and created by 1 wavelength of light
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Fluorescence
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influences our perception of color because wavelengths arelonger (i.e. our idea of white is a fluorescent white that is bright bluish)
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Trichromatic/Tristimulus Color Perception
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means that our eyes have differentchannels for conveying color information
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Color Theory
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The visual mixing of color or the way our brains and eyesinteract to perceive color
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Are colors that we see affected by light sources?
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yes
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What are the issues with colors/color matching?
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metamerism & the bezold effect
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Metamerism
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an issue with color matching due to light sources
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The Bezold Effect
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the merging of 2 or more color areas into one
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How do we describe color?
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saturation, hue, brightness, and hueless/achromatic colors
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Saturation
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describes the purity of the color (i.e. 100% red); a pure color is fullysaturated and not mixed with other colors
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Hue
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describes the dominant color from a mixture (blue) and gives it its name
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Brightness
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the total intensity of the lightwave or the visual sensation
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Hueless/Achromatic Colors
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do not have hue characteristics and exist on acontinuum varying by brightness only
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Additive Color Mixing
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Adding wavelengths of light to create colors;primary colors in additive color mixing are red, green and blue
• Used on TV/movie screens and computers |
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Subtractive Color Mixing
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removes one or more wavelengths of light to createother colors; primary colors are yellow, magenta and cyan
• All 3 colors combined in equal parts = black • The absence of these 3 = white • Secondary • Tertiary |
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Secondary Subtractive Color Mixing
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mixing equal amounts of 2 of these colors
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Tertiary Subtractive Color Mixing
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mixing equal amounts of 2 of these colors• Tertiary = mixing 1 primary and 1 secondary OR unequal amounts of 2 primarny
• Used in applying color to things we perceive such as objects, clothing, metal andpublished material |
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Color Fidelity
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the accuracy of a color created in one method to match acolor in the other method
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Standardized Light Sources
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are important to measure and evaluate color!
• They replicate sunlight as closely as possible or commonly used light sources (CIEis responsible)• No singular best source of light; product/category/industry specific |
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Color Measurement
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determines the specific color but accounts fordifferences between individuals and is used in color matching
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Color Matching
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occurs when two objects have nearly identical color sensationsand can be reproduced as many times as necessary
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CCM or Computer Color Matching
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a numerical method to match colors byevaluating all possible color combinations to create the best match possible
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Shade Sorting
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Grouping materials by color, ensures matching
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AATCC covers color...
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measurement and evaluation to calculate differencesin color
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Tolerances are used and given in ranges for...
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any variability in color from thestandard
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Standard Colors
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are commonly used colors within a company and all parts ofthe production process must have the same information in order to matchthe color
• Providing samples of digital files of the color, physical samples and printedmaterials/brochures enables the best chance of color matching |
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Lab Dips
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samples of dyed fibers or material, often provided to thedesigner for verification of the correct color and finally color approval
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Shade Banks
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are physical swatches of color from lightest to dark ofacceptable shades of the dyed material and a sample of the dyed fashionfabric, or a strike-off may be sent for evaluation before production
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PCP or Production Color Profiling
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software that can replicate a printeddesign creating a realistic picture of a finished product so it can beenvisioned
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Why are standards and specs important?
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product integrity
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Product Integrity
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the way materials and other aspects of theproduct work together to affect consumer satisfaction; internal and external
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Internal Integrity
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the consistency of the materials’ function andstructure
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External Integrity
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the consistency between product performance andconsumer expectations
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Standards
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help a company describe the quality level for products; ensuresconsistency
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Specifications
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include details for products; describe exact characteristicsand performance levels to be used for evaluation; tolerances and components
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Tolerances
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acceptable range of variation from specs
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Components
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product pieces that come together in production*each component must fall within acceptable standards andspecs to ensure they will function together when thegarment comes together
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Specs and standards are spent on...
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an understanding ofmaterials used in production
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Evaluating materials creates...
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a greater chance the product willmeet requirements
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If the materials in a product fail...
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the product will fail
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Performance and characteristics of the materials affect the...
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pattern, construction, fit and grading
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Prototype or sample is created to determine how...
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the productwill fit
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How does design impact internal integrity of a product?
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- Details, features and characteristics of finished products
- Considers the entire product from a holistic perspective; howproduct parts contribute to the aesthetics as a whole - Design specs focus on fashion and aesthetics - Information is usually passed along digitally from step to step; Allows for mass customization |
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How well a product does what it is designed to do is the function, specs may…
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- May address performance requirements for a specific end use or general
- May address advertising claims or guarantees - May address function relating to protective clothing (i.e. helmets/footwear) |
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Why does appearance matter?
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- How an item looks from near perspective (i.e. conversation distance); Hangar appeal
- Emphasizes the way the finished product looks from outside a close position - How details match (i.e. stripes matching up at side seams) - Symmetry of a garment - Workmanship - Engineering specs incorporate standards for workmanship to reach specificlevels (i.e. uniform pleating) - Address function of closures (i.e. zippers, buttons) - Usually address exterior of garments but occasionally interior as well |
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Workmanship
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how a products materials and construction affect appearance
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Size
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- refers to length, width, depth circumferenceand vertical dimensions of a product
- dimensions are based company standards forsizes |
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Size specs include specific...
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dimensions,tolerances and instructions for measuring theproduct
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Body scanning uses reflected light to...
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determinecomplex 3D shapes of the human body thatcan be analyzed to determine standard sizes
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Fit
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how product dimensions relate to 3D forms, bodies or objects
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Fit standards relate to...
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body features and how a product hangs on abody or needs of ease for movement (ease based on type of product,materials used); product features such as darts, relation of pockets toproduct scale; product drape; side seams should be perpendicular to thefloor, level hems
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Garment/Product balance is...
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the point where the garment naturallyrides or drapes on a body (i.e. a shirt balances from the shoulder)
- Fit models are used to test - Garment weight should be evenly balanced - Fit standards describe the way a garment should hang/balance on variousfigure shapes |
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Construction
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the way the product’s parts, components andmaterials are combined
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Specs may focus on specific processes or construction requirements:
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- May describe general requirements (i.e. 10-12 stitches per inch)
- May include details; specific stitch to be used, thread type, seam allowance,etc.. - May address details such as seam edges, trimming threads, stitchingshoulder seams or requiring deep hems on children’s wear |
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Finishing
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- Involves any of the procedures used to achieve final/finishedappearance
- Pressing, trimming of threads, steaming, turning pockets right side out - Could include any processing steps such as product dyeing - Specs address procedures to be completed and any materials or ingredientsto be used in finishing |
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Zones must be defined to...
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set the parts that are more crucialfor appearance than others
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Most visible zones are...
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of greater importance than less visiblezones and ranked with 1 being the highest priority. Zoneswith lower priority (underarm, inside of a garment) areranked lower
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Companies create standards and identify...
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defects in each area
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Packaging
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The manner in which products are transported, shipped and presented tocustomers
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Standards describe general aspects of packaging (varies from company tocompany) including...
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materials to be used for packaging, how the item shouldbe folded or supported
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Packaging indicates...
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the number of products per box/container and thelabeling to be attached to the packages
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Do standards and specs can have a significant impact on cost?
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Yes
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When standards and specs are high for construction & appearance,...
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material selection and construction techniques must ensure the products meet that level of expectation
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Relationship of Specs and Standards to Product Cost & Quality
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- Companies must have a good idea of the customer’s performance & priceexpectations
- Important to ensure that low/inconsistent quality merchandise is notshipped - Costs involved with managing standards and specs are part of the cost ofdoing business and ensuring quality assurance |
