Chapter 9 - Haircutting

Front 1

What is defined as the artistic carving or removing of hair lengths with shears, taper shears, razors and / or clippers to create various forms and shapes?

Back 1

Haircutting

Front 2

What is another term for hair cutting?

Back 2

Hair sculpting

Front 3

What is the foundation of every haircut?

Back 3

Form

Front 4

What is form?

Back 4

A three-dimensional representation of a shape. It has length, width and depth

Front 5

What produces the form of a haircut?

Back 5

The length arrangement (such as long to short or short to long)

Front 6

What are the three basic lines?

Back 6

Horizontal, vertical and diagonal

Front 7

which lines goes straight up and down, reduce bulk and create a feeling of weightlessness or equilibrium as with a standing human body?

Back 7

Vertical lines

Front 8

which lines are parallel to the Horizon and considered stable or restful and create a feeling of maximum weight or stability?

Back 8

Horizontal lines

Front 9

Which lines fall between horizontal and vertical and create the illusion of movement and excitement?

Back 9

Diagonal lines

Front 10

What are the two basic curved lines?

Back 10

Concave and convex

Front 11

Which lines curve outward like the outside of a sphere?

Back 11

Convex lines

Front 12

Which lines curve inward like the inside of a sphere?

Back 12

Concave lines

Front 13

What is formed at the point where two lines join together to intersect?

Back 13

Angles

Front 14

What are angles used for in hair cutting?

Back 14

To create shape and form of the haircut

Front 15

What are the most common angles?

Back 15

45° and 90°

Front 16

what consists of the arrangement of lengths across the various curves of the head, such as shorter on top to longer at the bottom or nape?

Back 16

The structure of a haircut

Front 17

What are the two ways to analyze a haircut?

Back 17

Natural fall and normal projection

Front 18

What describes the hair as the lengths lay or fall naturally over the curve of the head?

Back 18

Natural fall

Front 19

what is a way to analyze the structure of length arrangement by viewing the hair as if it were projected at a 90 degree angle from the various curves of the head?

Back 19

Normal projection

Front 20

What are the two areas of the head and what are they divided by? Describe the location of each

Back 20

1. Interior - above the crest

2. Exterior - below the crest

They are divided by the crest which is the widest area of the head

Front 21

What are the four basic forms used in haircutting?

Back 21

Solid form

Graduated form

Increase layered form

Uniformly layered form

Front 22

Which form is also known as a layered cut or 90 degree angle cut?

Back 22

A uniformly layered form

Front 23

Which form is also known as a one-length cut, bob, Dutch boy, blunt cut or 0 degree angle cut?

Back 23

A solid form

Front 24

Which form is also known as a wedge or 45 degree angle cut?

Back 24

A graduated form

Front 25

Which form is also known as a shag or 180 degree angle cut?

Back 25

An increase layered form

Front 26

What cut contains two or more forms in any combination?

Back 26

A combination form

Front 27

Which cut has a very short exterior gradually progressing to longer interior, is similar to graduated form but shorter?

Back 27

A gradation

Front 28

What are very short forms of gradation?

Back 28

Fades and bald fades

Front 29

What cut is uniform at center top to increase layered at front and crown, and has gradated and uniform sides and back? What is it also known as?

Back 29

Square combination form or box cut

Front 30

which tool creates tapering or an angle effect on the end of each strand, which produces a softer, somewhat diffused form line?

Back 30

A razor

Front 31

Which tool generally cuts hair most quickly and can achieve a variety of effects depending on the blade attachment used?

Back 31

Clippers

Front 32

Which tool creates a clean blunt Edge?

Back 32

Shears

Front 33

Which tool consists of one straight blade and one serrated blade?

Back 33

Taper shears

Front 34

Which tool is used to distribute and control the hair before and, sometimes, while cutting?

Back 34

A comb

Front 35

What lengths do shear blades range from?

Back 35

4 in (10 cm) to 7.5 in (18.75 cm)

Front 36

What is used for over comb techniques and for cutting larger sections of hair?

Back 36

Longer shears

Front 37

What is used for more precision or detailed cutting?

Back 37

Short shears

Front 38

How do you avoid dulling your blades prematurely?

Back 38

Never cut anything but hair with your shears

Front 39

What are the two blades of the shears called and what finger are they controlled with?

Back 39

1. Still or stationary blade - controlled by the finger grip

2. Movable or action blade - controlled by the thumb grip

Front 40

Which finger controls the still blade?

Back 40

The ring finger / third finger

Front 41

Which finger controls the movable blade?

Back 41

The tip of the thumb

Front 42

What are the four cutting positions?

Back 42

Palm up

Palm down

Palm to Palm

On top of the fingers

Front 43

Which cutting position is commonly used for cutting solid form lengths?

Back 43

Palm down

Front 44

which tool is used for creating shorter lengths within the form or on the ends of the hair to reduce bulk and create mobility?

Back 44

Taper shears

Front 45

What is another term for taper shears?

Back 45

Thinning shears

Front 46

What are the four types of taper shears? Briefly describe each

Back 46

Taper 8 shears - teeth spaced 1/8" apart

Taper 16 shears - teeth spaced 1/16" apart

Taper 32 shears - teeth spaced 1/32" apart

Channeling shears - have wider notches that produce dramatic chunky effects

Front 47

What are the 12 most common areas or reference points of the head?

Back 47

Crest (parietal)

Interior

Exterior

Front

Back

Sides

Nape

Crown

Occipital

Apex

Fringe

Perimeter

Front 48

What areas of the head are divided vertically from ear-to-ear?

Back 48

The front and back

Front 49

What is the area of the head in front and on top of the ear?

Back 49

The side

Front 50

What area of the head refers to the top or highest point?

Back 50

The Apex

Front 51

What area of the head refers to a bone that protrudes from the back of the head below the crest?

Back 51

The occipital

Front 52

What part of the head is below the occipital?

Back 52

The nape

Front 53

What part of the head is above the occipital?

Back 53

The crown

Front 54

What area of the head refers to the front of the interior?

Back 54

The Fringe

Front 55

What area of the head refers to all around the hairline?

Back 55

The perimeter

Front 56

What involves dividing the hair into workable areas for the purpose of control?

Back 56

Sectioning

Front 57

When cutting hair, how is the most natural, pure result of the line achieved?

Back 57

When cutting the hair in an upright head position

Front 58

What are lines that subdivide sections of hair in order to separate, distribute and control the hair while cutting?

Back 58

Partings

Front 59

What are the most common parting lines? (6)

Back 59

Horizontal

Vertical

Diagonal back

Diagonal forward

Concave

Convex

Front 60

What refers to the direction hair is combed in relation to the parting?

Back 60

Distribution

Front 61

What are the four types of distribution?

Back 61

Natural

Perpendicular

Shifted

Directional

Front 62

when the hair is combed out of natural distribution in any direction except perpendicular what is it known as? What is another term for it?

Back 62

Shifted distribution or over direction

Front 63

Which type of distribution refers to when the hair is combed at a 90 degree angle from its parting?

Back 63

Perpendicular distribution

Front 64

what refers to the angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head prior to and while cutting? What is another term for it?

Back 64

Projection or elevation

Front 65

What ranges of angles are considered to be low projection? medium projection? high projection?

Back 65

Low - between 0° and 30°

Medium - between 30° and 60°

High - between 60° and 90°

Front 66

What do projection angles below 90° do?

Back 66

Produce weight

Front 67

What do projection angles 90° and above do?

Back 67

Layer the hair

Front 68

What is the natural position hair assumes due to gravity?

Back 68

Natural fall

Front 69

How is the hair held when doing a 0° cut?

Back 69

Flat to the surface of the head

Front 70

How is the hair held when doing a 45° cut?

Back 70

Halfway between 0° and 90°

Front 71

How is the hair held when doing a 90° cut?

Back 71

Straight out from the curve of the head

Front 72

What refers to the position of the fingers and shears relative to the parting?

Back 72

Finger and shear position

Front 73

What are the two basic types of finger and shear positions?

Back 73

Parallel and non parallel

Front 74

Which finger and shear position are the fingers positioned unequally away from The parting? What is this position generally used for?

Back 74

Non parallel - used to blend between contrasting lengths and to create exaggerated length increases

Front 75

which finger and shear position are the fingers positioned at an equal distance away from The parting? What will this result in?

Back 75

Parallel - will result in the purest reflection of the chosen line

Front 76

What is referred to as the artistic guideline used while cutting?

Back 76

Design line

Front 77

What are the two types of design lines?

Back 77

Stationary and mobile

Front 78

Which design line is a stable guide to which all lengths are directed? What is this line generally used for?

Back 78

A stationary design line - used to cut solid and increase layered forms and to achieve a weight area in graduated forms

Front 79

which design line is a moveable guide that consists of a small amount of previously cut hair which is used as a length guide to cut subsequent partings? What is it generally used for?

Back 79

A mobile or traveling designline - used to cut graduated and layered forms and square combination forms

Front 80

What is used to check a haircut for balance and accuracy?

Back 80

Cross-checking

Front 81

How is cross checking performed? Give an example

Back 81

By using the opposite parting pattern that was used to cut the hair

Ex. if you've cut the hair horizontally you will cross-check it vertically

Front 82

what involves cutting shorter lengths within the form to reduce bulk and create support, closeness, fullness, mobility and visual texture in the cut without shortening or removing length?

Back 82

Texturising or thinning

Front 83

What tools can be used for texturising?

Back 83

A razor, shears or taper shears

Front 84

What three areas of the strand are texturising techniques performed on?

Back 84

Base

Mid strandEnds

Ends

Front 85

Where is base texturising performed? What is its purpose and what is the end result?

Back 85

- performed up to 1 inch away from the scalp.

- purpose is to create expansion and fullness.

- end result: removes weight at the base allowing the hair to lift away from the head.

Front 86

Where is mid strand texturising performed? What is its purpose? What is the end result?

Back 86

- performed between the end of the base area up to 1" before the ends

- purpose is to reduce bulk and weight

- end result: the shorter lengths support the longer lengths to create fullness or a contoured effect

Front 87

Where is end texturising performed? What is its purpose? What is the end result?

Back 87

- performed on the ends of the hair

- purpose is to reduce bulk and weight to allow for mobility

- end result: softens the ends and helps to blend weight lines

Front 88

what is the technique used to reduce weight or remove length, in which the ends of the hair are carved into with a razor using a back-and-forth motion?

Back 88

Razor etching

Front 89

What does slithering do?

Back 89

Removes bulk and creates mobility

Front 90

What technique is performed by rotating the razor and comb along the hair strand to remove weight?

Back 90

Razor rotation

Front 91

What is an important thing to remember when using a razor?

Back 91

The hair should be damp in order to avoid client discomfort

Front 92

As a general rule, how close to the scalp can you texturize coarse hair? Medium hair? Fine hair?

Back 92

Coarse - at least 1.5 inches away

Medium - 1 inch away

Fine - 1/2 inch away

Front 93

Why can fine hair be texturized closer to the scalp?

Back 93

Fine texture needs the extra support of the shorter lengths underneath in order to achieve a fuller looking effect

Front 94

Why shouldn't you texturize coarse hair too close to the scalp?

Back 94

Because the shorter lengths will poke through the surface hair creating an uneven, spiked effect

Front 95

How do you avoid a chunky texturized effect?

Back 95

Use a very light stroke

Front 96

How should very curly hair be texturized? Why?

Back 96

Dry, to allow for more control and the shrinkage factor

Front 97

What area should you avoid thinning?

Back 97

Around the hairline

Front 98

What is a cutting technique used to define the perimeter hairline?

Back 98

Outlining

Front 99

What areas on men require special grooming? (6)

Back 99

Eyebrows

Ears

Nose hair

Beards

Goatees

Mustaches