Textiles Exam 3

Front 1

Yarn

Back 1

a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or materials in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise interwining to form a textile fabric. "an assemblage of fibers, twisted or laid together, so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric."

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Filament Yarn

Back 2

Primarily manufactured, except silk. Throwing (twisting). Less pilling. Sheds soil more easily. Monofilament (one)

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Monofilament yarns

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Primarily for industrial uses. These yarns are made of a single coarse filament fiber.

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Multi Filament

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This means two or more filaments. Traits are: smooth, bulky "has been processed to have greater covering power or apparent volume." More absorbent. More loft. Loosely packaged together. More comfortable, breathable. *Texture --false - twist. stuffer-box. air - jet.

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Spun yarns

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Made of staple fibers. More comfortable. More thermal retentive. Table 10-3 spinning steps..must know them in order for the test.. Opening. Carding produces sliver. Combing (optional). Combed vs carded. Worsted vs Woolen. Roving. Spinnning.

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Spinning Steps

Back 6

Steps are opening, carding --produces sliver, combing (optional), roving, spinning
Figure 10 - 3
1. Pin
2. Spindle
3. Heater
4. Input rolls

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Throwing

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Originally a process for twisting silk filaments, evolved into the twisting of manufactured fibers and then into texturing. Throwing provides the fabricator with the specific yarn needed for a particular product.

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Combed Yarn

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When working with cotton or cotton blends, the term combed is used. Combed yarns are drawn once before combing and two more times after combing.

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Worsted Yarn

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When working with wool or wool blends, the term worsted yarn is used.

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Carded Yarn

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Yarns that have not recieved this process are carded yarns (cotton or cotton blends)

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Woolen Yarn

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Yarns that have not yet recieved this process are woolen yarns(wool or wool blends)

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Opening (step in yarn spinning)

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loosens, cleans, and blends the fibers.

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Carding (step in yarn spinning)

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partially aligns the fibers and forms them into a thin web that is brought together as a soft, very weak rope of fibers called carded sliver.

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Combing (step in yarn spinning)

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Produces a yarn that is superior to a carded yarn in smoothness, fineness, eveness, and strength. Combing aligns fibers in a parallel arrangement.

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Roving (step in yarn spinning)

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Step that reduces the drawn sliver, increases teh parallel alignment of the fibers, and inserts a small amount of twist in the strand, now called roving.

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Spinning (step in yarn spinning)

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Adds yarn twist. A spinning frame holds a number of individual units.

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Sliver

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a ropelike strand of fibers.

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Intimate Blend

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each yarn made of different fiber types

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mixtures

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In a mixture, yarns of one generic type are used in the warp and yarns of another generic type are used in the filling.

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Twist

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1.Tight vs loose
*shed soil more easily
*decreased absorbence
*increased abrasion resistance
*less comfortable
2. Amount
*none
*low twist (2-3 tpi); more often in filament yarns
*napping (usually 6-15 tpi); good for spun yarns
*average twist (usually 20-30 tpi); often in spun yarns
*Voile twist (35-40 tpi)
*crepe (40 + tpi)
3. Direction
Can be described as an S twist or Z twist..Z is more common in weaving yarns. (figure 11-2)

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TPI

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Turns per inch

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S twist

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A yarn has an S twist, if when held in a vertical position, the spirals conform to the direction of slope of the central portion of the letter S. (twisted to the right)

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Z twist

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the direction of spirals conforms to the slope of the central portion of the letter Z. (twisted to the left)

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Napping twist

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Bulky, soft, fuzzy, may be weak. It's a finish in which fiber ends are brushed to the surface to produce a softer hand. See sample 31 in textile kit.

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Low - twist

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Filament yarns. 2-3 tpi. Smooth or bulky; twist may be hard to see.

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Average twist

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Peracle warp; 25 tpi. Filling; 20 tpi. Nylon hoisery (25-30 tpi). Most common, smooth, regular, durable, comfortable. Produces smooth, regular fabrics.

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Voile Twist

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Hard-twist singles; 35-40 tpi are plied with 16-18 tpi. Strong, fine yarns. Fabrics have harsehr hand due to yarn twist.

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Crepe twist

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Singles. 40-80 or more tpi are plied with 2-5 tpi. Lively yarns that kink and twist in teh fabric with good drape and texture.

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Single Yarns

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-strands of fibers held together by twist. Filaments grouped together wtihout twist. Monofilaments.

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Ply yarns

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(two or more single yarns twisted together). - if twisted in teh same direction: *harder texture, reduced flexibility.

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Cord Yarns

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(twist ply yarns together)
- usually SZS or ZSZ formation

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Fancy/Novelty yarns

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They are called fancy yarns or novelty yarns because they produce an interesting or novel effect in fabrics made from them.
Fabrics lint and pill
Weaker than filament yarns. Most resist raveling.
Less abrasion-resistant
Warmer
More absorbent if one ply is a spun yarn

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Types of Novelty/Fancy..
(Single)

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*Tweed/flake
*slub (less twisted at intervals along its axis)

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Types of Novelty/Fancy
(Ply)

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*usually, but not always, contains three parts = ground, effect (fancy), binder (figure 11-11)

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Slub

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some slub yarns are plied! they do not have three parts.

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Knot

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exhibits three characteristic parts (sample 43 in textile kit)

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Boucle/loop

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sometimes contains the three elements (sample 41 in kit) and swatch 15 on paper in kit.

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Chenille

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cut from fabric, flocked, or cutting the effect. figure 11-2.

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ratine

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(swatch 44 and kit sample 40)

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Snarl

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(sample 42 in kit)

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Covered yarns

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have a central yarn that is completely covered by fiber or another yarn.

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Most natural fibers can be made into a spun fiber

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fact

Front 43

Multifilament yarns can be, but not always are bulked or textured

Back 43

true

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In general, the higher the twist of the yarn, the lower amount of comfort the fabric is said to have

Back 44

true

Front 45

On average, spun yarns tend to have greater comfort properties than filament

Back 45

true

Front 46

The carding stage of yarn spinning produce what is called a sliver

Back 46

true

Front 47

Which stage in the spinning process is optional? Combing

Back 47

true

Front 48

A worsted yarn in considered to be of higher quality than a woolen yarn.

Back 48

true

Front 49

Why is fiber blending advantageous? Properties from more than one fiber can be combined

Back 49

true

Front 50

What is the difference between intimate blend and mixture? An intimate blend has both fibers present in one yarn, a mixture has different yarns in the warp & filling direction of the fabric

Back 50

true