Reading...
Play button
Play button
Use LEFT and RIGHT arrow keys to navigate between flashcards;
Use UP and DOWN arrow keys to flip the card;
H to show hint;
A reads text to speech;
101 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
|
Yarn
|
Collection of fibers twisted together to form a continuous strand
|
|
|
Spun yarns
|
Natural, short, staple fibers, make spun yarns
Soft, fuzzy, warm |
|
|
Filament yarns
|
Synthetic yarns, don't require twist
|
|
|
Monofilament
|
Made of a single fiber
Stiff, rarely used for apparel fabrics |
|
|
Multifilament yarn
|
Made of many fibers
Flexible, drapable, good luster, smooth |
|
|
Carding
|
Brushing the fibers straight before twisting them together
|
|
|
Combing
|
Removes shorter fibers, makes finer fabric
|
|
|
Carded + Combed
|
Worsted
|
|
|
Single-ply Yarn
|
Fibers are twisted into a single yarn
|
|
|
Multi-ply yarns
|
Consist of 2 or more yarns twisted together
More plies = more strength |
|
|
Core spun yarns
|
Fibers twisted around one central fiber
Results in stretchier & softer fabric |
|
|
Microncount
|
System of measuring natural fibers
|
|
|
Denier
|
Measure of weight & length
|
|
|
Simple yarn
|
Single or plied yarn
No aesthetic factors |
|
|
Complex/Novelty Yarn
|
Lumps & bumps in texture
Result of a combo of spun & filament Decorative, not durable |
|
|
Plied Yarns
|
Multiple singles wrapped each other
S or Z twist |
|
|
Multi Filament Yarns
|
Many filament fibers grouped together to act as 1 yarn
|
|
|
Yarn composition may be:
|
Blended fiber
Mixed type pure |
|
|
Boucle Yarn
|
Complex yarn
French term for "spun" Chanel suit |
|
|
Marl Yarn
|
2 plies, different colors
Speckled effect |
|
|
Heatheryarn
|
Subtle changes in color throughout entire yarn
|
|
|
Combination Yarn
|
2 plies, different fibers
Burnout effect |
|
|
Crepe Yarn
|
High twist
Rough, pebbly surface |
|
|
Twill Weave
|
Floats add luster & surface texture
|
|
|
As twist increases, what happens?
|
Yarn strength & stiffness increase
|
|
|
What is TPI?
|
Number of times the fiber was turned around each other in 1 piece of yarn
Degree of twist Affects performance and aesthetic properties |
|
|
What is low twist?
|
2 to 12 TPI
Soft spun yarn Not very durable, pills easily, weaker Warmer & fuzzier |
|
|
What is high twist?
|
20 to 30 TPI
Hard spun yarn Fine, smooth, strong, durable |
|
|
What is overtwist?
|
TPI greater than 40
AKA crepe twist Less durable, more drape |
|
|
Is the yarn count system direct or indirect?
|
Indirect
|
|
|
YPI is a factor of what 4 things?
|
stability, durability, quality, and weight
|
|
|
As YPI goes up, what happens to quality, durability, and weight?
|
They go up
|
|
|
YPI: _______________ X ________________
what what |
warp X weft
|
|
|
Bigger YPI number means _____________ yarn
|
Bigger
|
|
|
Is the denier system direct or indirect?
|
Direct
|
|
|
What does the denier system represent?
|
The weight of 9,000 meters of filament yarn (expressed in grams)
|
|
|
What system is international & direct?
|
The tex system
|
|
|
When using the yarn size, what does a lower number mean?
|
A finer yarn
|
|
|
What is balance?
|
The ratio between warp and weft
|
|
|
As the denier gets higher, the yarn gets ______ ?
|
Coarser and fatter
|
|
|
What is count?
|
The actual number of yarns in both warp and weft
|
|
|
Is a higher count better or worse?
|
Better
|
|
|
What do fiber content & yarn type determine?
|
The final textile, appearance, drape and hand
|
|
|
What does the "weave" of a fabric refer to?
|
The style in which the yarns were interlaced
|
|
|
What are warp yarns?
|
Up and down
Stronger, simpler Usually more warp than weft |
|
|
What are weft yarns?
|
Left to right
|
|
|
To create fabric, the ______ is moved over and under the ________
|
Weft, warp
|
|
|
The yarn laying over top is a
|
Riser
|
|
|
The yarn on bottom is a
|
Sinker
|
|
|
A riser that passes over more than 1 sinker is a
|
Float
|
|
|
What is selvage?
|
The finished, sturdy edges of a fabric
|
|
|
What is cross grain?
|
Cutting along weft
|
|
|
What is straight grain?
|
Cutting along warp
|
|
|
What is the nap of a fabric?
|
The direction that the surface texture faces
|
|
|
What is top weight vs bottom weight?
|
Top weight is something that is an appropriate weight for the top half of the body. Bottom weight is an appropriate weight for the bottom half of the body
|
|
|
What is a plain weave?
|
1 to 1 ratio
Most simple & common type of construction Reversible Low luster, poor drape, resistant to snag Each filling yarn goes alternately over and under |
|
|
What is a basket weave?
|
Perfectly balanced (2 to 2, 3 to 3)
Less strong, more decorative use Inexpensive to produce |
|
|
What weave is oxford cloth?
|
Basket weave
|
|
|
What is the method of construction for a basket weave?
|
2 or more warps are simultaneously interlaced with 1 or more fillings
|
|
|
What are a few common fabrics from a basket weave?
|
Canvas, oxford
|
|
|
What is a rib weave?
|
An unbalanced plain weave
|
|
|
What characteristics does a rib weave have?
|
Strong, poor elasticity, poor drape, good body
Ribbed surface |
|
|
What creates the ribbing on a rib weave?
|
A very thick weft. There are either very thick weft yarns, or twice as many weft as warp
|
|
|
What are some common rib weave fabrics?
|
Taffeta
Bengaline Crepe |
|
|
What are the 2 variations of plain weave?
|
Basket weave and rib weave
|
|
|
What is the strongest overall weave?
|
Twill
|
|
|
What are the diagonals of a twill weave called?
|
Wales
|
|
|
What are some categories of a twill weave?
|
Very good luster, durble, diagonal surface design
|
|
|
What is the method of construction for twill?
|
Warp floats over 2 or more yarns
|
|
|
What are some common twill fabrics?
|
Denim, chino
|
|
|
What is the method of construction for a broken twill?
|
Weaving alternates between left and right handed twill, resulting in a broken diagonal line
|
|
|
What are a few common broken twill fabrics?
|
Houndstooth, Herringbone
|
|
|
What are the 3 main groups of wovens?
|
Plain, Twill, Satin
|
|
|
What are a few characteristics of satin?
|
High luster, soft, smooth, drapable, floats snag easily
|
|
|
What is the method of construction for satin?
|
Floats one warp yarn over 4 or more weft
|
|
|
What are a few characteristics of complex weave?
|
Heavier and more expensive
|
|
|
What are some crepe fabrics?
|
Chiffon, georgette, crepe back satin
|
|
|
What are some characteristics of a slack tension weave?
|
Wrinkly
Usually a white stripe and a light pastel stripe |
|
|
What is a common slack tension weave fabric?
|
Seersucker
|
|
|
A dobby weave is also known as a
|
Mommie weave
|
|
|
What are the characteristics of a dobby weave?
|
Small, geometric patterns on the surface of the fabric
|
|
|
What are some common fabrics of a dobby weave?
|
Dobby shirting, pique
|
|
|
How is an extra yarn weave constructed?
|
An extra yarn is carried along the back and comes up every time they want a dot
|
|
|
What are some common fabrics of extra yarn weave?
|
Clip spot, swiss dot
|
|
|
How was the Jacquard fabric invented?
|
Joseph Marie Jacquard in the 1800s
digital code punched on to cards to tell the yarns where to go seen as 1st computer |
|
|
What are some common Jacquard fabrics?
|
Damask, tapestry
|
|
|
What makes something undoubtly a Jacquard fabric?
|
If there is more than 1 weave type involved
|
|
|
How is a double weave constructed?
|
2 fabrics are woven at the same time with a 3rd one that connects them
|
|
|
What are some common double weave fabrics?
|
Matelasse, Double weave shirting
|
|
|
What are some characteristics of an uncut pile?
|
Loops are possible on both sides of the fabric
Usually seen in bathrobes/towels |
|
|
What is the method of construction for an uncut pile fabric?
|
A plain weave twill with a 3rd dimension- an additional warp yarn
|
|
|
What are some common fabrics for uncut pile?
|
Terrycloth
|
|
|
What are some characteristics of a cut pile?
|
Warm, soft, absorbent, has a nap
|
|
|
What is a sign of a nice cut pile?
|
The nap all goes in one direction
|
|
|
What are some common cut pile fabrics?
|
Corduroy, velvet, velveteen
|
|
|
Pile is the Latin word for what?
|
Hair
|
|
|
Pile weaves are 3D, so they are mainly used for?
|
Carpeting, stuffed animals, some clothing
|
|
|
What are the 3 sets of yarns in a cut pile?
|
Warp, weft, and yarns making perpindicular loops on surfaces of the other 2
|
|
|
Why is it important that all pieces of a pile weave be laid in the same direction when constructing the fabric?
|
Because due to the nap, if they are facing different directions the light could hit it differently and make it look like it doesn't match
|
|
|
What does a higher count pile weave mean?
|
It will be more durable, resist crushing
(2,000 for a carpet) |
|
|
Common characteristics of pile weaves are?
|
Strong, absorbent, soft fuzzy hand
|
