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40 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
Manufactured Fiber
are made from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities. The material's original form is not recognizable as a fiber.
Manufactured Regenerated Fiber
Produced from naturally occuring polymers. Polymers do not occur naturally as fibers; thus, processing is needed to convert them into fiber form. Reclaimed from cellulose or protein. (rayon, lyocell and acetate) --cellulosic fibers..remember "natural"
Synthetic Fiber
second type of manufactured fibers.fully man made fibers..(nylon, polyester, olefin, and acrylic).
Rayon
1st regenerated cellulosic fiber. Commercial Production 1911. Cotton linters, or wood pulp. "artificial silk."
- weak fiber that loses about 50% of its strength when wet.
- lowest elasticity recovery of any fiber.
Viscose (type of rayon)
- regular (most basic type). 94% cellulose. Wood pulp. Most widely used.
Cupramonium (type of rayon)
- Not produced in US anymore. Cotton linters. Stronger, more silk-like.
HWM (high wet modulus)..(type of rayon)
- more like cotton.
- high wet strength
- less prone to stretch when damp or wet
Lyocell
- wood pulp.
-- good drape.
- soft hand.
- very strong (wet and dry) strongest of all cellulostics
- will wrinkle, but not likely to shrink.
- fairly abrasion resistant.
- will fibrillate
Acetate
- 1920s
- 2nd manufactured fiber in US
- coating for wings of WWI airplanes
- chemical variation of cellulose known as "ester"
- dry spun
- problems with acetate:
1. thermoplastic (heat sensitive)
2. fume fading
-lobular cross section
-high luster
-good drape
-medium absorbency
- poor thermal retention
- poor resilency
Difference Between Synthetic Fibers and Regenerated Fibers
- The difference is the raw material from which the fiber is formed. Regenerated fibers are produced from naturally occuring polymers, the polymers for synthetic fibers are synthesized or made from smalll simple molecules.
Nylon
- 1st manufactuered synthetic
- 1st consumer product was toothbrush (bristles)
- Women's stockings...(miracle fiber and nylon riots)
- By 1970 produced in greater quantity than any other synthetic
*Physical Structure*
- smooth surface
- naturally lustrous
- "strong man" fiber (it will be on test)
1. Exceptional recovery and elongation
2. Excellent tenacity
3. Excellent abrasion resistance
- moderate thermal retention
- low absorbency
- dimensional stability
- low resistance to sunlight
Polyester
- Introduced in 1951
1. experiment
2. "wash and wear" revolution
3. clotheslines replaced by electric dryers
4. decrease in ironing
- decline in late 1970s
- resulting image problem
- apparel
- industrial and consumer textiles
1. road building textiles
2. transportation upholestry
3. seatbelts
- Household and Institutional Textiles
1. draperies
2. upholestry
Properties
- petroleum
- heat drawn
- excellent resilience
- heat set
- hard hand
- high amount of pilling (some fabrications)
- excellent blending properties
- excellent abrasion resistance
- strength is not affected by moisture
- hydrophobic
- resists sunlight deterioration
- bacterial odor
Oelfin
- significant in use in 1960s for inerior furnishing fabrics
- today, 55% and used in carpets and rugs
- secondary usage in industrial and consumer textiles
1. outdoor furniture
2. rope
3. bags
4. medical and surgical textiles
- less than 1 % used for apparel
- melt spun
- flakes of polypropylene
- round, smooth
- medium in luster
- sometimes produce an oily/waxy hand
- oleoprillic
- nonabsorbent, dries quickly after wet.
- not as susceptible to static electricity
- wicking
- thermal retentive
- very strong, not adversely affected by moisture
- highly abrasion resistant
- excellent resilience (but will melt/shrink in heat) and recovery
- resists mildew
- lightest in weight (low density)
Acrylic
- largest application in apparel and carpets
- very soft hand
- easily imitates wool
- "warmth without weight"
- moderate strength/durability
- hydrophobic, but wicks
- thermal retentive
- cannot be heat set (decomposes before reaching melting point)
- poorer dimensional stability than poly/nylon
see table 8-20
Modacrylic
- modification of regular acrylic
- 1st inherently flame - retardant fiber
- similar to acrylic, with exception of durability
Elastomeric **on test
"a natural or synthetic polymer that, at room temp, can be stretched repeatedly at least twice, its original length and that, after removal of the tensile load, will immediately and forcibly return to approx its orginal length.
Two kinds of stretch:
Comfort
1. 15-30% elongation
2. Provide closer - fitting garments
3. Gentle shaping

Power
1. 30-X00% elongation
2. Firms and shapes
3. Compressive pressure
4. Foundational garments, swimsuits, suspenders.
Spandex
- first synthetic elastic fiberm developed in attempt to out perform rubber.
- finer. used in lighter weight fabrics.
- dyeable
- grin-through (see figure 9-4). pg 160
Protective Fibers:
- developed to produce inherent resistances
1. flame
2. heat
3. chemicals
Expensive
Rubber
-manufactured fibers in which the fiber -forming substance is compromised of natural or synthetic rubber
-Natural
1. ancient central and south american civilizations used coagulated rubber for playing ball (as early as 1600 BC)
- recieved its name in 1700s
- used in foundation garments beginning in early 1900s
- exported by SE Asian countries
- Havea tree
- Tapper shaves off thin layer from bark
Synthetic
- developed in early 30’s
- improvements in finesness, durability
- greater resistance to deterioration
- used more frequently
Properties:
-hard to dye
-usually covered by yarn
-excellent elongation (500-600%) and recovery
-heat sensitive
-deterioration from sunlight, oils, and heat
Aramid
- no melting point, flame resistant
- high tenacity
- high resistance to chemicals
- industrial and protective clothing
- furnishings
Glass
- made from melted glass
"ingredients" (sand, limestone, additives)
- skin irritant (breaks easily)
- extruded into long filaments
- doesn't burn, melts at 2400 degrees F
- thermal retentive
Spinneret
- small nozzle through which the dope or melt is forced
Wet Spinning
(acrylic, lyocell, rayon, spandex): polymer dissolved by chemicals, spun into a chemical bath and coagulated.
Dry Spinning
(acetate, acyrlic, modacrylic, spandex, triacetate, and vinyon): polymer dissolved by solvent, spun into warm air and solvent evaporates.
Melt Spinning
(nylon, olefin, polyester): polymer melted, spun into air, and cooled.
Striations
- are the lengthwise lines present on several manufactured fibers, such as rayon.
Heat Setting
-describes the process of producing fiber, yarn, or fabric stability through the use of heat.
Heat Sensitivity
- is the ability to soften, melt, or shrink when subjected to heat.
Thermoplastic
describes a fibers sensitivity to heat fibers that melt or glaze at relatively low temp
Fiber Spinning
the process of producing a manufactured fiber from a solution
Drawing
describes a fiber - finishing step in which a manufactured fiber is elongated after spinning to alter the molecular arrangement within the fiber, increasing crystallinity and orientation and resulting in a change in specific performance properties
Glazing
is a flattening of the cross section of heat sensitive fibers or yarns resulting from exposure to high temperatures
Pilling
the formation of tiny balls of fiber ends and lint on the surface of the fabric
Oleophilic
refers to fibers that have a high affinity for oil
Power Stretch
refers to the ability of a fabric to exhibit high retractive forces that mold, support, or shape the body.
Comfort Stretch
refers to the ability of a fabric to elongate slightly as the body moves and to recover a significant portion of that elongation when the stretching force is removed.
Grin - through
occurs when some elastomeric fibers break and the broken ends or loops of broken fibers appear on the fabric's surface. In pile and tufted fabrics, it describes where the base structure shows through the pile surface.
Metallic Fibers
are manufactured fibers composed of metal, plastic - coated metal, metal - coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal.
Wicking
the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface.
For the fibers Rayon, Acetate, Polyester, Nylon, Rubber, Spandex:
1. surface characteristics
2. aesthetic properties
3. durability properties
4. comfort properties
5. appearance retention properties
6. brief background
*you do not have to know cross-sectional shape, or spinning method
--just wanted to write directions for test
For the fibers Acrylic, Modacrylic:
1. Aesthetic properties
2. For Modacrylic, background

Comparisons between fibers will be ones that we’ve discussed in class and/or will be made between fibers of contrasting properties

Review fiber modifications (chapter 6)
--just wanted to write directions for test