Textiles Exam 3

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Staple

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Staple fiber webs produce nonwovens from natural staple fibers (cotton)or from manufactured staple fibers (rayon).

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Dry laid-air laid

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Staple. process produces webs with random orientation, or acarded process produces webs with fibers oriented in a specific direction(lengthwise, crosswise, or both) and then bonded. Fiber orientation affects strength and drape.

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Wet-laid

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Staple. production involves filtering the short fibers from anaqueous suspension onto a screen belt or perforated drum,similar to papermaking, producing a uniform fiber web withrandom fiber orientation.

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Spunbond

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Polymer. fibers are extruded through a spinneret, partially cooled,drawn, and laid directly on a conveyor belt. § Random or directional arrangement can be used.§ The resulting web is then bonded to produce the fabric.

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Flash spun

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Polymer. polymer/solvent solution is extruded through aspinneret. Highly fibrillated fibers with random orientation, collected on aconveyor belt then bonded.

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Meltblown

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Polymer. thermoplastic filament fibers extruded through aspinneret are subjected to high-velocity hot air that breaks thefilament into short fibers. Only random orientation is possible.

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Chemical bonding

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resins or binders are used to bond thefibers -The properties of the nonwoven fabricare affected by the chemical used forbonding. -Chemical choice depends on intendedend use. For example, chemicalbonding is typically suitable for mostfood packaging and personalhygiene products

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Mechanical bonding

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fibers are entangled or stitched to holdthem in place and add strength. Examples: Spun lacing or hydroentangling- produces good drape ability Needle punch and Stitch bonding

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Needle punch

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Uses needles to entangle webs- Used to produce nonwoven carpets

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Stitch bonding

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This fabric is often used in upholstery, window shades, gloveliners Uses chain or tricot stitches to hold the fiber web together

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Thermal bonding

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thermoplastic fibers are fused with heat. Two commonly used thermal bonding methods are: −fusing polymer web fibers that are still in a semi-solid stage. −fusing a web in certain areas or points (using an engravedroller) -Only thermoplastic fibers can be thermally bonded.

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Quilted fabric

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Quilted fabrics are produced by stitching two or more layers ofmaterials together, by hand or machine. Stitched with thread, layers of material are held together andstitched by hand or by machine. The lines of stitching formgeometric or other patterns.

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Quilted fabric: Ultrasonic

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Ultrasonic, layers are fused together at various points.The points of fusing appear as small dots or linesand form geometric or other patterns resemblingquilted fabrics stitched with thread - used for mattress pads and low cost comforters, cribmattresses.

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Laminated fabrics

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Laminated fabrics are produced by joining a layer of fabricwith a layer of film or membrane, using a resin or adhesive. Two-layer laminates (woven, knitted, or nonwoven) arelaminated to an air impermeable film or microporousmembrane. Three-layer laminates, a film or membrane is sandwichedbetween two fabrics or vice versa. GORE-TEX® and a fewlimited-use fabrics used for protective apparel are examples.The laminated layers can be pulled apart.

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Bonded fabrics

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produced by joining two or more layers offabric with a resin, foam, rubber, or adhesive.

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Coated fabrics

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are produced by coatingfabric surfaces with a resin, rubber, orvinyl. • The coating is applied to the fabricface or back depending on intendeduse. • The durability of coated fabrics variesconsiderably depending on coatingtype, environment, and otherconditions in use. • Some coatings crack after extendeduse.

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Open mesh: lace

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Lace is a decorative open-mesh fabric construction, originallyproduced by hand. Lace-making machines were invented to reduce time and cost;the Leavers machine produces lace similar to handmadebobbin lace. Handmade Laces§ Bobbin lace§ Needle lace or point lace§ Filet lace § Battenburg lace§ Knitted lace§ Crochet Lace§ Tatted Lace

Most lace is raschel lace

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Tufting

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Tufted or pile fabrics are produced by inserting loops in basefabrics using tufting machines with needles that create thepile. • Yarns or strips of fabric form the loops or pile and can be cutor remain uncut. • Tufting machines range from hand tufting machines to wide-width machines used for carpets. • Pile height and density affect performance and cost of thefabric. • The tufting method of fabric construction dominates therug and carpet industry. Tufted fabric is either coated orbacked to prevent the tufts from pulling out.

Carpet

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Open Mesh: net

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Net can be produced by hand knotting or machineknitting and knotting methods. Tulle is produced on tricot knitting machines. A net-like bag, for inexpensive fruit and vegetables, isproduced by fusing yarns at the points of contact. Mesh fabrics are produced on Raschel knitting machines.

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Open mesh: embroidered

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Hand or Machine embroideryOrnamental design worked on afabric with threads-Logos

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Embossed leather

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application of heat andpressure; leather is placed under a heatedmetal plate and pressure applied to createthe pattern. • Terms such as corrected grain or enhancedgrain is used for leathers in which thenatural grain has been replaced byembossing a grain pattern that resemblesnatural grain. • Used to emboss cowhide to look likealligator or snakeskin. • Used to imprint designs and text (e.g., brandname) on the leather.

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Suede leather

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made by sanding the flesh side of theleather to produce a nap. Also produced bysanding split leather. Not as strong as theone made by sanding or buffing the flesh sideof the hide.

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Shearling

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the leather side of lamb pelt is sueded and used on theoutside.

sheared for a more uniform pile.Note: The process is similar to that used to give pile weave fabrics a uniform pile.

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Chamois

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thin suede leather made fromsheep or deer skin.

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Nubuck

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leather with the grain side sandedor buffed to produce a soft, sueded surface.Resembles suede, but not considered suedesince it is the grain side that is sanded,whereas in suede it is the flesh side that issanded.

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Nappa

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full grain leather, known for its quality.Typically made with unsplit leather from sheep, lambor goat skin.

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Hair-on leather

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includes the animal hairs in theepidermis.

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Kid or kidskin

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generic term for leather used ingloves or shoes made from goat skins

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Exotic hides

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from other animals (zebra) andskins from reptiles (snake, alligator,crocodile), birds (ostrich, ostrich legs), andfish (sting ray, eel, shark) are generally muchmore expensive and limited in quantity. Theyare typically labeled to include the animalname; the term "leather" is usuallyinterpreted as hide from cattle.

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Exotic leather imprints

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are embossed oncattle hide to produce leather "look alikes" ata lower cost. Described with terms such as"snake- like leather" and "leather withalligator imprint.”

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Reconstituted, bonded, pulverized, ground, orshredded leather

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technically not considered leatheras it is made with leather and non-leather materials. • Vary considerably in cost, quality and appearance. • Majority are formed by the use of resins or adhesives that bond together the leather fibers. • Newer technology used for manufacture of materials such as E-Leather® in which water is used to entangleleather fibers on a fabric base.

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Faux leather

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Faux or imitation leather - materials that resemble leather but donot have an animal source. • Many are multicomponent materials with a woven, knitted, ornonwoven base fabric; thus technically, they are textile materials. • Appearance, quality, and cost vary considerably. • Fabrics coated with polyurethane or PVC (polyvinyl chloride) are • embossed to produce the grain and appearance of leather. • Some composites, labeled poromeric, have a more porous structure that makes the fabric "breathable." • Cracking and poor edge abrasion resistance are the most common problems with coated materials. • Special care required for vinyl coated materials as some chemicalshave an adverse effect on these materials.

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Faux fur

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terms usedfor pile fabrics that look like fur. • Appearance, quality, and cost varyconsiderably. • Available in different pile heights anddensities, including those made withdifferent types of fibers to imitateunderfur and guard hair. • Fiber properties, fabric construction,dyeing and finishing enable manufactureof faux furs that resemble a variety ofnatural furs. Majority of the faux furs are manufactured with acrylic, modacrylicand polyester fibers used for the pile. • Fiber content and modifications such as shape and thicknessareimportant in the selection of fibers to achieve the desired look. • In some faux furs, acrylic fibers are used for finer, shorter, crimpedfiber to imitate underfur and thicker, longer polyester fibers areused to imitate guard hair.

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Faux fur construction

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knitted, woven and tufted pile fabrics. • Fabrics with a knitted base stretch; fabrics with woven base are more stable.• Majority are weft pile knits.• Pile knits are produced by inserting slivers as the extra pile yarn. Shedding of the pile - a problem with most faux furs with a knitted base. • Some high end faux furs are woven pile fabrics constructed with a "W" pile interlacing that ismore securely attached to the base fabric andtherefore does not shed. • Tufted faux furs are used for throws and rugs.

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Mink fur

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shiny with soft guard hair and denseunderfur. Length of underfur hair is fairly uniform.Sheared mink has softer hand compared to unshearedmink. • Wild mink is brown; farm-raised is black, white ormixed. • Mink pelts are long and narrow.• One of the more expensive furs.

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Fox fur

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obtained from wild and ranch/farm raised animals. Has long, soft guardhair with a thick underfur that provideswarmth. • In the wild, fox fur is obtained fromthree species - red, gray, and arctic.Other fox names are given to ranch-raised fox. • Fox pelts are larger than mink pelts asthey are from a larger animal

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Beaver fur

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long shiny guard hair and dense underfur.Sheared beaver fur has a softer hand than unshearedbeaver; stiffer guard hairs are cut and the softerunderfur is visible.

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Sable or marten fur

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very soft, dense, and relativelyshort. Pelts are the same size as mink pelts. One ofthe more expensive furs.

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Dyes vs. pigments

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Dyes are absorbed into fabric or fiber, pigments are not

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Colorfastness

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Textile colorfastness plays an important role in its maintenance, use, andcare. • Colorfastness to:• Washing • dry cleaning• Perspiration• Light• Water • sea water• Bleaches• crocking (rubbing) • All dyes are not created equal • Laboratory tests conducted in accordance with AATCC and other standards are used to predict colorfastness. • These standards are used routinely by many retailers as part of their qualityassurance programs.

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Levelness

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A level dyeing produces the same shade on theentire batch of material being dyed.

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Fastness

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The ability of a dyed textile to retain its shade anddepth of shade when exposed to various external,environmental agencies.

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Why are dye machines used?

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End use, cost, pressure needed tomake dye stick, temperature needed

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Solution dyeing

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known as dope or spun dyeing, is the process of adding color to the solution before it is extruded through a spinneret. • For difficult-to-dye, manufactured fibers such as olefin. • Used for environmental reasons as it eliminates the need for energy, water, and waste water disposal. • Color pigments are part of the fiber, creating materials with excellentcolorfastness to light, washing, crocking (rubbing), perspiration, andbleach. • More expensive due to initial set-up costs. • Color decisions must be made early in the manufacturing process.

Used on olefin

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Fiber dyeing

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Stock, top, and tow dyeing: • Dye penetration is excellent; the amount of dye used at thisstage is higher. • Color decisions must be made early in the manufacturingprocess; not suitable for “quick response” products. • More costly than yarn, fabric, and product dyeing. • To produce yarns with two or more colors, wool and otherfibers are fiber dyed. Tweeds and fabrics with a “heather” lookare fiber dyed fabrics.

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Yarn dyeing

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Yarn dyeing provides adequate color absorption andpenetration. Thick yarns (e.g., denim) may not have good dyepenetration. • Dyed yarns produce woven and knitted fabrics requiringcolored yarns to create a design (e.g., stripes, plaids, checks,iridescent). • Yarns for hand weaving, knitting, crocheting, and weaving areyarn dyed. • Full-fashioned garments, especially those made ofmanufactured fibers, are yarn dyed; can be made withnaturally colored yarn/fiber, or product dyed material; may bemistaken as piece dyed because of their solid color.

Denim and Ikat

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Fabric/Piece dyeing

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Fabric or piece dyeing is dyeing fabric after it has beenconstructed. Beck and jet are piece dyeing methods in which the fabric is dyed in arope form. For both methods, the two ends of the fabrics are stitchedto form a continuous loop of fabric. The fabric is dyed as thecontinuous loop of fabric circulates in the dyeing machine.

Beck low temp, less pressure

Jet high temp, high pressure

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Product dyeing

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Used because it is cheaper, faster, and able to dye greige goods for popular colors

Product or garment dyeing is for hosiery, wool berets, T-shirts,and sweaters. • Suitable when all components (including threads) dye the sameshade • Not suitable for apparel with many components (lining, zippers,and sewing thread), each component may dye differently. • Product dyeing is ideal for quick response.• T-shirts, sweaters, and other casual clothing are product dyed for fast response to demand for certain popular colors.• Garments are constructed from prepared-for-dye (PFD) fabric, then dyed to colors that sell best. • Solid colored solution dyed fabrics may be mistaken for piecedyed fabrics.

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Union dyeing

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Union dyeing is “a method of dyeing a fabric containing two ormore types of fibers or yarns to the same shade so as toachieve the appearance of a solid colored fabric” (Source -Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology). Fabrics can be dyed using a single- or multiple-step process. A combination of disperse and reactive dyes is used to dyecotton/polyester blends. Union dyeing is used to dye solid colored blends andcombination fabrics for apparel and home furnishings.

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Cross dyeing

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Cross dyeing is “a method of dyeing blend or combination fabrics totwo or more shades by the use of dyes with different affinities forthe different fibers” (Source - Dictionary of Fiber and TextileTechnology). § Is a piece dye method used to achieve looks for which fiber oryarn dyeing would typically be required. § Plaid, check, or striped fabrics are produced by using yarns withdifferent fiber content § Suitable for “quick response” products. § Cost effective as piece dyeing is less expensive than fiber and yarn dyeing. § Can be mistaken for fiber or yarn dyed materials – fabric is not asolid color.

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Hand printing: block

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Uses wood or other carved material to stamp designs onfabric. • The size of the repeat pattern is limited by the size of theblock. • Typically done on cellulose and protein fibers. • Pigments can be used to print other fibers.

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Hand printing: screen printing

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Screen printing is stencil printingwhere the print paste is pressedthrough a fine screen to apply adesign. • A thickener with dyes or pigment istypically used. • Small flat screens are used forprinting small areas (T-shirts, etc.)using manual and semi-mechanizedmachines.

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Hand printing: tie dye

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Fabric is tied to prevent (or resist) dye penetration. • Used for traditional textiles in India, Japan, Nigeria, Ghana,and Liberia. • Cellulose fabrics (cotton, rayon, silk) are generally used fortie-dye.

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Hand printing: Ikat

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yarns are tie-dyed prior to hand weaving. • Jagged edges are characteristic of ikat printing. • Ikat is used for printing traditional textiles in Indonesia, India, and Guatemala. • Cotton and silk yarns are used to produce Ikat fabrics.

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Hand printing: Batik

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Produced by applying hot wax tofabric prior to dyeing to preventdye penetration in certain areas. Batik is used to print traditionaltextiles in the Far East, SouthAsia, West Africa, and otherregions. Indonesia is renownedfor its batiks. Traditionally, batik is done on cottonand silk; now, rayon is also used.

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Mechanized printing: roller printing

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Fast process historically used to print large quantities offabric. § Initial set-up costs(engraving copper rollers)are very highand labor-intensive. § Used for high quantities. § Typical designs include stripes,polkadots,and fine-line. Design repeat is not more than the diameter of the roller. § In the U.S. roller printing has mostly been replaced byrotary screen printing.

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Mechanized printing: screen printing

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Fabric is stationary in the manual flatbed screen printingand the screen is moved manually; in the mechanizedflatbed process the screen is stationary and the fabricmoves mechanically. • Screen printing was automated to increase production. • Screens are made of mesh with high fabric count. • Nylon and polyester are used for flat screens (manual, semi-automatic, and automatic processes); wire mesh is used forrotary screens. • The mechanized method is much faster than the manualmethod, but slower than rotary screen printing.

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Mechanized printing: flatbed screen printing

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Fabric resting on a conveyor blanket is mechanically advanced fromscreen to screen.

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Mechanized printing: rotary screen printing

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Most common method § Simple and more cost-effective than roller printing.§ § Used to print a variety of fabrics (including knits) and designs § Single-color polka dots to sixteen-color half-tonepatterns § Easily prints vertical and diagonal stripes§ Registry marks along the selvage used to align the rotary screens identify fabrics printed by thismethod. Note: Not all screen printed fabrics haveregistry marks.

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Mechanized printing: heat transfer printing

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Screen or digital printing is used to create designs on transferpaper; some systems can use regular paper. • Fabric and preprinted paper are pressed together in a heatedpress. • Dyes from the paper are transferred to the fabric.

Developed to print polyester fabrics with disperse dyes. • Disperse dyes sublimate (change from solid to gas phase) whenheated, and are easily transferred from paper to fabric. • Designs with very fine lines or photographic designs can beproduced since they are first printed on paper. • Rotary heat transfer printing machines are use for printing widewidth fabrics and cut pieces. • The initial startup cost is very low, and the changeover time toprint a new design is very short. • The process is considered environmentally friendly as the energyuse is low and there is less waste.

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Mechanized printing: Digital printing

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Uses a digital printer comparable to those used for paper • Fabric must be prepared to receive the dyes, PFP • Suitable for design studios and for developing samples for screenprinting. • Printer speed and ink costs prevent digital printing technologyfrom being used for high-volume printing.

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Applied prints

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Prints where dye or pigment paste is applied to the surface of a fabric are known as applied prints.Block, roller, and screen printing methods create applied prints. Applied prints are most common; most block, roller, and screenprinted fabrics are produced by applying dye or pigment paste tothe fabric surface. Fabrics printed with dye paste are known as wet prints becausewater is used for after treatments. Fabrics printed with pigment paste, known as pigment prints,require heat to dry and cure the resin binder.

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Discharge prints

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Discharge prints remove color to create a design; the background is darker than the design. • Block, roller, and screen printing can be used to create dischargeprints. • Initial step is piece dyeing • The design area is printed with a paste containing a chemical to remove color so the background color is visible. • To add colors, the print paste combines a chemical (to strip color)and a dye or pigment (to recolor the stripped area, overprint) • Care is taken to prevent chemical used to strip the color fromweakening the fabric’s fibers. • Cotton or other cellulose fibers piece dyed with reactive dyesare used for discharge printing.

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Resist prints

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Techniques used to prevent dye from penetrating thefabric - Through wax, twisting fabrics, etc - Discussed with tie- dye, batik, ikat, and wax printing

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Out of register

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color for each is out ofline, creates off print

seen as color circles or squares along the selvage ofrotary screen printed fabric, show the alignment of each screen. In out-of-register or off-register prints, one or more of the screensis not aligned properly. Out-of-register or off-register fabrics may have to be sold as seconds,reducing a company's profit margin.

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Durability of finishes

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A permanent finish lasts for the life of the fabric.§ A durable finish lasts for the expected life of the product; finisheffectiveness gradually diminishes after repeated laundering or cleaning.§ A semi-durable finish loses effectiveness after repeated laundering and use and must be re-applied. § A non-durable finish such as starch is partially or completelyremoved after one laundering or cleaning.

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Routine finishes

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Desizing – removal of protective starch coating Scouring - cleaning

Bleaching - whitening

Singeing or Shearing- removal of protruding fibers, reduces pilling in fabrics, particularly those made with spun staple yarns.

Tentering – alignment of yarns in a fabric

Calendering – pressing

Mercerization – caustic soda treatment of cotton Luster, dyability

Fulling – shrinkage treatment of wool

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Flocking

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Flocking is a raised fiber finish or design where short fibers, or flock,are attached with an adhesive applied to the fabric surface. • Short, random-cut fibers are used for decorative and packagingmaterials. • Precision-cut fibers are used for apparel, blankets, and upholsteryfabrics.

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Plisse

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Plissé fabric is produced byapplying a chemical invertical stripes that shrinksthose areas of the material. Shrinkage creates a puckered looksimilar to that of seersuckerfabric, but in a much lessexpensive manner than theslack tension weaving used inmaking seersucker. Sodium hydroxide or caustic sodapaste is used to shrink cottonfabrics. Phenol is used to shrinknylon fabrics.

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Burn out

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Burn-out - design is produced by dissolving one type of fiber in a fabric that is manufactured with two fibers. • Used only for combination yarns or fabrics where one fiber iseasily dissolved by a solvent or an acid, and the other is resistantto that chemical. • Appearance of flat versus pile:§ In flat fabrics, burn-out is characterized by a sheer area with fringe around the edge of the sections where the chemical was applied. § In velvets, the design is created by dissolving the pile in certainareas; thus, the base fabric is visible. The raised design mayresemble that of flocked fabrics.

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Denim finishing

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Denim finishing includes several dry and wet processingtechniques to give garments a used, worn, vintage, lived-in, ordistressed look. § Wet processing techniques include rinsing (water washing),stone washing, chemical washing (acid wash, bleaching),tinting, and over dyeing. Enzymes may reduce the time requiredto achieve the desired look. § Dry processing techniques, or abrasive finishes, include handsanding, sandblasting, brushing, destruction (holes, tears),laser burning, and laser discharge. Dry processes are applied to specific areas rather than a wholegarment. Robotic machines are used for labor-intensivefinishing techniques such as hand sanding.

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Calendered moire

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Moiré is produced by passing two layers of arib weave fabric between rollers to flatten theribs. • Flattening the rib in certain areas alters theway light reflects off the fabric. • Looks like watermark and wood grain. • Heat applied during calendering produces a durable finish on fabrics made of syntheticfibers with thermoplastic properties (e.g.,nylon, polyester). • Fabrics with prominent rib weave (e.g., taffeta,faille, bengaline) produce moiré fabric.

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Calendered cire

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Used for fabrics woven with thermoplastic fibers. • The fabric is passed through high-speed, heated rollers thatsoften and polish the surface creating a “wet look.” • Ciré means "wax" in French. • Used for fabrics woven with thermoplastic fibers • Ciré is used for backpacks, sleeping bags, and outerwear.

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Calendered glazed

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fabrics with a glossy or shiny surface. • Glazing is produced by applying starch, wax, or resinprior to passing the fabric through very smooth rollersmoving at high speed. • The rollers add luster by flattening the fabric surface.The finish is temporary with starch or wax, and durablewith resin • Glazed finishes are used for woven cotton fabrics. • Examples, glazed chintz and polished cotton

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Abrasive finish: Napping

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Napping is a mechanical finish where wire hooks are used to pullfibers from low-twist yarns to produce a raised fabric surface. § Fabric can be napped on one or both sides of the fabric.§ Napped fabrics can be produced only with spun yarns as fiber ends cannot be pulled from filament yarns.

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Abrasive finish: Brushing

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Brushing is a mechanical process to gently raise the fibers fromthe surface. It is also part of pile manufacturing to removeshort fibers from the surface of the fabric.

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Abrasive finish: Sanding

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mechanical finishes that alter the fabric surface.

used for silk fabrics, gives fine fabrics a soft hand.

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Abrasive finish: sueding

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mechanical finishes that alter the fabric surface.

gives fabrics a suede-like effect.