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20 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

def. of waves

a periodic disturbance of the particles of a substance that may be propagated without net movement of the particles, such as in the passage of undulating motion, heat, or sound.

what are the causing of waves?

1. wind blow across ocean


2. the movement of fluids with diff, density

what is -air -water interference


(wind blow across ocean)


-ocean waves

what is -water - water interference

(the diff. in density layer)


-internal waves

what are type of waves when the wind blown across the ocean

-ripples/ capillary waves


-wavelength less 1.74 cm


-ocean waves

what are types of waves when there movement of fluids with diff. density

-internal waves


-water-water interference


-height of waves more than 100 m

internal waves are the result of ?

-tidal movement


-turbidity current


=passing ships

Energyin wave determine by ?
-Wind speed

-The length of time wind blow in one direction


- The distance the wind blow in one direction

what is gravity wave,

if there are a lot of eng.


wind blowing across ocean)


-wavelength more 1.74

what are the causes of splash waves?

=Coastallandslides

=Calvingicebergs

what are the causes of Seismic seawaves or Tsunami

-Seafloor movement


-Turbidity current


-Volcanic eruptions


-Fault slippage

what are the causes of Tides
Gravitational pull of Moon and Sun
what is a Crest (wave characteristic)
the highest point on a wave
what is Trough, or valley (wave characteristic)
between two waves, is the lowest point
Wavelength is
the horizontal distance, either between the crests or troughs of twoconsecutive waves
wave period, T, represents
time tocomplete one full wave
Still water level =
zero energy level-->halfwaybetween crests and troughs
Wave Steepness, formula

waveheight (H) / wavelength (L)

what will happen if Wave steepnessof > 1/7
Wave become to steep to support itself

=Wave breaks

celerity formula

Wind speed, C = wavelength/Time