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51 Cards in this Set
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Manufactured Fibers
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Any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber
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Steps of Spinning
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1.Preparing a viscous dope (spinning solution) from raw materials or melt.
2. Extruding (forcing/pumping) the dope through a spinneret to form a fiber 3. Solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling. |
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Wet Spinning
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1. Raw material dissolved by chemicals
2. Fiber spun into chemical bath 3. Fiber solidifies when coagulated by bath ex. acrylic, lyocell, rayon, and spandex |
Oldest process, most complex, weak fiber until dry, washing bleaching etc. required before use, solvent may be recovered and reused.
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Dry Spinning
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1. Resin solids are dissolved by solvent
2. Fiber is spun into warm air 3. Fiber solidifies by evaporation of the solvent ex. Acetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex |
Direct process, solvent required, solvent recovery required, no washing etc. required
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Melt Spinning
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1. Resin solids are melted in autoclave
2. Fiber is spun into the air 3. Fiber solidifies on cooling ex. Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran |
Least expensive, Direct Process, High Spinning Speeds, No Solvent washing etc. required, Fiber shaped like spinneret hole.
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Solvent Spinning
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Lyocell
Raw material dissolved in amine oxide Extruded into weak amine oxide solution Fiber precipitates in solution |
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Fiber Modifications
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1. Size and Shape
2. Fiber's Molecular Structure 3. Additives to Dope for Fiber Enhancement 4. Alter Spinning Process 5. Complex Modifications |
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Fiber Size and Shape
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Denier
Microdenier (softer hand, drape, more silk-like, greater comfort) |
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Fiber Molecular Structure
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Potential for
Drawn or stretched High strength Low pilling Elongation |
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Additives to the Spinning Solution
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Delustering
Solution Dyeing or Mass Pigmentation Whiteners or Brighteners Cross Dyeable Antistatic Fibers Sunlight-Resistant Flame-Resistant Antibacterial Fibers |
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Modifications of Spinning Procedure
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Smooth filaments can undergo texturing or crimping
Filaments can remain almost infinite in length or can be cut into short lengths call staple |
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Complex Modification
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Bicomponent fibers
a. side-by side b. sheath core c. matrix/fibril |
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Regenerated Fiber
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PRODUCED FROM NATURALLY OCCURRING POLYMERS
STARTING MATERIALS FOR THESE FIBERS: CELLULOSE AND PROTEIN |
Microscopically:
Rayon and acetate have striations and irregular cross sections Lyocell is more rounded and smoother with nodes Burn Tests: Rayon and lyocell burn like cotton or flax Acetate burns freely, melts and decomposes to a black char Solubility: Acetate dissolves in acetone |
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Rayon
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All properties are similar to natural cellulosic fibers
Most aesthetics can be controlled Soft and smooth Potential to shrink Flammable |
Importance to Consumers
1. Rayon is an excellent fashion fiber 2. Rayon is biodegradable 3. Rayon is more like cotton than like nylon or polyester Wet Spun Most common method High Wet Modulus (HWM) Viscose rayon Stronger |
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Lyocell
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Development was prompted by rayon’s negative environmental impact
Early 1990’s – marketed as a type of Tencell; later given generic name of Lyocell Lyocell – is a manufactured fiber composed of solvent-spun cellulose |
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Acetate
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Dry spun
Aesthetics can be controlled Weak (esp. when wet) Heat sensitive & thermoplastic (melt) Poor Elasticity Resiliency Abrasion Resistance |
Properties:
~Low in Cost ~Good Draping qualities ~Excellent Aesthetics ~Dissolved by acetone |
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Bamboo
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From Raw Bamboo Pulp
Soft Hand Naturally Antibacterial Good wicking ability Used for apparel towels, wallpaper, and other furnishing |
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Azlon
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~ Soysilk
~ Silk Latte ~ Firestar Used in Europe as for silk-like scarf fabric |
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Synthetic Fibers
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2nd type of manufactured fiber
Difference between synthetic & regenerated fibers Raw Material Regenerated fibers are produced from naturally occurring polymers Synthetic polymers are synthesized or made from small simple molecules |
1st – chemicals (materials) must be available for fiber formation (Melt Spinning)
2nd – materials are polymerized (or connected into 1 extremely large linear polymer) Two Processes for Polymerizations: Addition Condensation |
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Addition
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Double bond between 2 adjacent C atoms in the repeating unit is broken and reforms as a single bond connecting 2 repeating units, until a long chain is formed.
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Condensation
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As monomers and other small molecules combine, water is eliminated and is the resulting by-product of this reaction.
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Polymers
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The repeating units: GROUP of atoms that are combined in the same structural formation and are repeated over and over for the polymers length
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Synthetic Fiber Abrasion
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Abrasion resistance is Good to Excellent
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Synthetic Fiber Electrostatic
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Electric conductivity is high
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Synthetic Fiber Resistant to Chemicals
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Resists most chemicals
Resistant to moths, fungi, and rotting |
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Synthetic Fibers Oleophilic
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Oil and Grease absorb into the fiber
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Synthetic Fiber Absorbance
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Low Moisture Absorbance
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Synthetic Fiber Heat Sensitive
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Heat Sensitivity – refers to fibers that soften or melt with heat
Heat Resistance – refers to fibers that scorch or decompose when influenced by heat Manufacturers – monitor heat in dyeing, scouring, singeing, & other finishing processes Glazing – melting and flattening of yarns and fibers when exposed to excess heat |
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Synthetic Fiber Identification
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Burn Testing
Melting or dripping Microscopic Imaging Not a reliable method No unique visible characteristics Synthetic fibers appearance can be modified easily Chemical Solubility Specific chemicals must be used to identify Hydrochloric acid, xylene, cresol, etc = DANGEROUS! |
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Nylon
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3rd most widely used fiber
1st synthetic fiber produced in U.S. Silky Touch Lingerie, swimwear Supplex Woven actionwear MicroSupplex Woven activewear 90% of all carpet in nylon 95% of women’s hosiery is nylon |
Dimensional Stability – high
Elastic Recovery – excellent Abrasion Resistance – excellent Water-based Stain Resistance – good to excellent Oil-based Stain Resistance – poor Moisture Absorbency – poor UV (sunlight) Resistance – poor |
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Polyester
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Referred to as a ‘workhorse’ fiber of the industry
Resilient – wet & dry Easy-care and packable apparel, furnishings Dimensional stability Machine washable Sunlight-resistant Good for curtains and draperies Durable, abrasion-resistant Industrial uses, sewing thread, work clothes Oleophillic Oil stains difficult to remove Aesthetic superior to nylon Blends well with other fibers, silk-like |
Resilient – wet & dry
Easy-care and packable apparel, furnishings Dimensional stability Machine washable Sunlight-resistant Good for curtains and draperies Durable, abrasion-resistant Industrial uses, sewing thread, work clothes Oleophillic Oil stains difficult to remove Aesthetic superior to nylon Blends well with other fibers, silk-like |
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Olefin
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Fastest growing fiber in world
Strong Resistant to abrasion Inexpensive Chemically inert Thermoplastic Static-resistant Difficult to dye – Due to the absence of Polar groups Lightest of all textile fibers (will float on water) Extremely heat sensitive, low melting point Excellent wicking abilities - wicks moisture away from the skin |
Thinsulste:
low bulk, ultra fine microdenier fiber fill of olefin (produced by 3M) footwear, ski jackets, outerwear |
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Acrylic
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Acrylic fibers are soft, warm, lightweight, and resilient
“Warmth without weight” Wool Substitute Not as durable as nylon, polyester, or olefin fibers Hypo-allergenic Durability, Comfort, Appearance Retention = Moderate Machine-washable |
Wet Spinning: Imparts a round or lima bean shape to some fibers
Higher bending stiffness Resiliency Bulky sweaters & blankets Dry Spinning: Produces a dog-bone shaped fibers Softness luster All production of acrylic fibers in the U.S. is staple fiber |
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Modacrylic
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Modacrylics were the first inherently flame-retardant synthetic fibers
Do not support combustion Very difficult to ignite Self-extinguishing |
Durability and Comfort:
Less durable that acrylics Similar to wool Moderate abrasion resistance Poor conductor of heat Soft, warm, and resilient, but have a tendency to pill Appearance and Care: Typically do not wrinkle Moderate dimensional stability High elastic recovery Resistant to mildew and moths Good resistance to sunlight Can be washed or dry-cleaned Nice appearance can be lost by improper care |
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Special Use Fibers
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Fibers that are unique in characteristic:
Elastomeric Protective Produced in much smaller quantities Either in small quantities in products OR In items with a relatively small market segment Price $ per pound is higher than other fibers discussed. |
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Elastometer Fibers
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Elastomer: is a natural or synthetic polymer that, at room temperature, can be stretched repeatedly to at least twice its original length
After which, it will immediately return to approximately its original length Rubber Anidex (no longer produced in US) Spandex rearrange “expand” and add a “s”. Excellent elongation Excellent elasticity (retraction) Strong retractive forces provide good compression for specialized products |
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Types of Stretch
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Power Stretch
Elastic fibers with a high retractive force are used to attain power stretch Important in end uses for which holding power and elasticity are needed. Foundation garments Surgical-support garments Swimsuits Garters Belts suspenders |
Comfort stretch
Comfort stretch fabrics look like non-stretch fabrics Their weight is lighter that that of power-stretch fabrics Important in products for which only elasticity is desired Apparel products Furnishings |
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Rubber
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Natural rubber is the oldest elastomer and the least expensive
Obtained by coagulation of the latex form the rubber tree Hevea brasiliensis Manufacturing process: synthetic & natural rubbers are vulcanized or cross-linked with sulfur. |
Excellent elongation
500-600 percent Excellent recovery Low tenacity – which limits its use in lightweight garments Low dye acceptance Poor hand Poor appearance rubber strand being covered by a yarn of another fiber or by other yarns in fabric Rubber lacks resistance to oxidizing agents Damaged by: Aging Sunlight Oil Perspiration Heat Chlorine Solvents Rubber should be washed with care (hand-washing with delicate detergent) Never dry-cleaned |
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Spandex
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1st manufactured elastic fiber - 1958
Called “Lycra” and “elastane” Superior to rubber in strength and durability Wet of melt spinning Spinning solution may contain: de-lusterig agents (produces white or gray) dye receptors whiteners Lubricants 20 denier – large amount of stretch is desired Lightweight support hosiery 1500-2240 denier – less stretch is desired Support in hosiery tops Swimwear Foundation garments |
Consists of rigid and flexible segments in the polymer chain
Flexible segments provide the stretch Rigid segments hold the chain together More resistant to degradation than rubber Resistant to: body oils Perspiration Lotions Cosmetics Good shelf-life Does not deteriorate with age as quickly as rubber Flex life is 10X greater than rubber Moisture regain of .75 – 1.3%, making spandex uncomfortable for skin contact Thermoplastic (melting point of 446-518 deg. F) Superior ageing compared to rubber Resists soiling Retains an attractive appearance HOWEVER, over time – coarser spandex fibers may rupture and work through the fabric – “grin-through” Support Shape Mold the body Keep textiles from stretching out of shape during use Primarily used in: Knit foundation garments Action-wear Compression sportswear Intimate apparel Shape-wear Hosiery Furnishings Narrow fabrics |
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Aramid
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Trade names: Nomex, Kevlar, Conex & Fenilon
Wet or dry spun Dog-bone shaped under high microscopic view |
High tenacity
High resistance to: stretch high temperatures Most chemicals Impact Abrasion Sunlight – moderate Oleophilic Prone to static build-up (unless finished Lightweight Fatigue resistant Damage resistant Exceptional strength! 5X stronger than steel! Exceptional fire-resistance Difficult to dye |
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Glass
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Does not burn
Causes skin irritations Excellent insulator with dead air spaces Very heavy Resists chemicals No absorption (does not dye) Not affected by sunlight at all |
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Metallics
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Gold and silver have been used since ancient times as yarns for fabric decoration.
2 processes are used to make metallic fibers: 1. Laminating process - seals a layer of aluminum between 2 layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarns (figure 9-9) 2. Metalizing process - vaporizes the aluminum under high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film. - produces thinner, more flexible, more durable, and more comfortable fibers |
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Stainless Steel
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Most extensively used metallic fiber
Cannot be dyed Reduces static charge in carpet Blended with other fibers Found: Garments used in clean rooms Tire cord Wiring Missile nose cones Corrective heart surgery |
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Novoloid
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Withstands 2500 degrees C from torch
Does not melt, burn, or fuse The yarns carbonize Used in: Protective clothing and fabrics Chemical filters Gaskets Packing materials Expensive! |
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PBI
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Condensation polymer that is dry-spun
Does not burn or melt & has very low shrinkage when exposed to a flame Used in: Heat-resistant apparel for firefighters Astronauts Fuel handlers Race car drivers Welders Hospital workers |
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Sulfar
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Produced by melt spinning
Gold in color Used in: filtration fabrics fire fighters uniforms electrolysis membranes and other high performance(protective) applications. |
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Saran
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The raw material is melt-spun, and stretched to orient the molecules (make more crystalline)
Produced in both staple and filament form Used in: Seat covers Furniture webbing Screening Dolly hair & wigs Agriculture protective fabric to shade delicate plants (tobacco & ginseng) Rugs, draperies, upholsteries |
Good weathering properties
Chemical resistant Stretch resistant Tough- Durable fiber Off-white in color, with slight yellowish tint Absorbs little to no moisture dries rapidly Difficult to dye, therefore mass pigmentation is used No static charge Does not support combustion Exposed to flame softens, then chars, and decomposes @ 115°C Immune to biological attack |
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Vinyon
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Very heat sensitive
Dissolves in acetone Dry-spun Cross section shape: Irregular Round Dog-bone Dumbbell shaped Softens at 150-170° F (should NOT be ironed or pressed) Unaffected by: Moisture Chemicals Insects Biological attacks Poor conductor of electricity Flame retardant Bonding agent for: Rugs Papers Nonwoven fabrics |
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Vinal
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Not made in U.S.
When vinal fibers are extruded through the spinneret, they are water-soluble and must be cross-linked with formaldehyde to make them non-water-soluble. Fiber has a smooth, slightly grainy appearance U-shaped cross section Weaker when wet Uses: Fishing nets Filter fabrics Tarps Brush bristles |
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PTFE
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Polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE (teflon)
Fluoropolymer Uses: Coating for cookware Soil-resistant finish “Teflon” Used in HazMat protective clothing Emulsion Spinning – polymerization and extrusion occur simultaneously 1. polymer is dispersed as fine particles in a carrier 2. dispersed polymer is extruded through a spinneret and coalesced by heating Carrier is removed by heating or dissolving Resists: Chemicals Sunlight Weathering aging Gore-Tex -- Tradename for fabrics that have a thin microporous film of PTFE. Fabric used for outerwear Wind and liquid/water-resistant BUT with water-vapor –permeablity |
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Carbon
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Fiber that is at least 96% pure carbon
Made from precursor fibers (rayon), then heated to remove O, N, and H. Excellent heat resistance – Does not ignite or melt. Used in: protective clothing golf clubs bicycle bodies bone grafts |
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