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51 Cards in this Set

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Manufactured Fibers
Any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber
Steps of Spinning
1.Preparing a viscous dope (spinning solution) from raw materials or melt.
2. Extruding (forcing/pumping) the dope through a spinneret to form a fiber
3. Solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling.
Wet Spinning
1. Raw material dissolved by chemicals
2. Fiber spun into chemical bath
3. Fiber solidifies when coagulated by bath

ex. acrylic, lyocell, rayon, and spandex
Oldest process, most complex, weak fiber until dry, washing bleaching etc. required before use, solvent may be recovered and reused.
Dry Spinning
1. Resin solids are dissolved by solvent
2. Fiber is spun into warm air
3. Fiber solidifies by evaporation of the solvent

ex. Acetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex
Direct process, solvent required, solvent recovery required, no washing etc. required
Melt Spinning
1. Resin solids are melted in autoclave
2. Fiber is spun into the air
3. Fiber solidifies on cooling

ex. Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran
Least expensive, Direct Process, High Spinning Speeds, No Solvent washing etc. required, Fiber shaped like spinneret hole.
Solvent Spinning
Lyocell
Raw material dissolved in amine oxide
Extruded into weak amine oxide solution
Fiber precipitates in solution
Fiber Modifications
1. Size and Shape
2. Fiber's Molecular Structure
3. Additives to Dope for Fiber Enhancement
4. Alter Spinning Process
5. Complex Modifications
Fiber Size and Shape
Denier

Microdenier (softer hand, drape, more silk-like, greater comfort)
Fiber Molecular Structure
Potential for
Drawn or stretched
High strength
Low pilling
Elongation
Additives to the Spinning Solution
Delustering
Solution Dyeing or Mass Pigmentation
Whiteners or Brighteners
Cross Dyeable
Antistatic Fibers
Sunlight-Resistant
Flame-Resistant
Antibacterial Fibers
Modifications of Spinning Procedure
Smooth filaments can undergo texturing or crimping
Filaments can remain almost infinite in length or can be cut into short lengths call staple
Complex Modification
Bicomponent fibers
a. side-by side


b. sheath core


c. matrix/fibril
Regenerated Fiber
PRODUCED FROM NATURALLY OCCURRING POLYMERS

STARTING MATERIALS FOR THESE FIBERS:

CELLULOSE AND PROTEIN
Microscopically:
Rayon and acetate have striations and irregular cross sections
Lyocell is more rounded and smoother with nodes
Burn Tests:
Rayon and lyocell burn like cotton or flax
Acetate burns freely, melts and decomposes to a black char
Solubility:
Acetate dissolves in acetone
Rayon
All properties are similar to natural cellulosic fibers

Most aesthetics can be controlled
Soft and smooth
Potential to shrink
Flammable
Importance to Consumers
1. Rayon is an excellent fashion fiber
2. Rayon is biodegradable
3. Rayon is more like cotton than like nylon or polyester

Wet Spun
Most common method
High Wet Modulus (HWM)
Viscose rayon
Stronger

Lyocell
Development was prompted by rayon’s negative environmental impact
Early 1990’s – marketed as a type of Tencell; later given generic name of Lyocell
Lyocell – is a manufactured fiber composed of solvent-spun cellulose
Acetate
Dry spun
Aesthetics can be controlled
Weak (esp. when wet)
Heat sensitive & thermoplastic (melt)
Poor
Elasticity
Resiliency
Abrasion Resistance
Properties:

~Low in Cost

~Good Draping qualities

~Excellent Aesthetics

~Dissolved by acetone
Bamboo
From Raw Bamboo Pulp
Soft Hand
Naturally Antibacterial
Good wicking ability
Used for apparel towels, wallpaper, and other furnishing
Azlon
~ Soysilk
~ Silk Latte
~ Firestar

Used in Europe as for silk-like scarf fabric
Synthetic Fibers
2nd type of manufactured fiber
Difference between synthetic & regenerated fibers
Raw Material
Regenerated fibers are produced from naturally occurring polymers
Synthetic polymers are synthesized
or made from small simple molecules
1st – chemicals (materials) must be available for fiber formation (Melt Spinning)
2nd – materials are polymerized (or connected into 1 extremely large linear polymer)
Two Processes for Polymerizations:
Addition
Condensation
Addition
Double bond between 2 adjacent C atoms in the repeating unit is broken and reforms as a single bond connecting 2 repeating units, until a long chain is formed.
Condensation
As monomers and other small molecules combine, water is eliminated and is the resulting by-product of this reaction.
Polymers
The repeating units: GROUP of atoms that are combined in the same structural formation and are repeated over and over for the polymers length
Synthetic Fiber Abrasion
Abrasion resistance is Good to Excellent
Synthetic Fiber Electrostatic
Electric conductivity is high
Synthetic Fiber Resistant to Chemicals
Resists most chemicals
Resistant to moths, fungi, and rotting
Synthetic Fibers Oleophilic
Oil and Grease absorb into the fiber
Synthetic Fiber Absorbance
Low Moisture Absorbance
Synthetic Fiber Heat Sensitive
Heat Sensitivity – refers to fibers that soften or melt with heat
Heat Resistance – refers to fibers that scorch or decompose when influenced by heat
Manufacturers – monitor heat in dyeing, scouring, singeing, & other finishing processes
Glazing – melting and flattening of yarns and fibers when exposed to excess heat
Synthetic Fiber Identification
Burn Testing
Melting or dripping
Microscopic Imaging
Not a reliable method
No unique visible characteristics
Synthetic fibers appearance can be modified easily
Chemical Solubility
Specific chemicals must be used to identify
Hydrochloric acid, xylene, cresol, etc = DANGEROUS!
Nylon
3rd most widely used fiber
1st synthetic fiber produced in U.S.

Silky Touch
Lingerie, swimwear
Supplex
Woven actionwear
MicroSupplex
Woven activewear
90% of all carpet in nylon
95% of women’s hosiery is nylon
Dimensional Stability – high
Elastic Recovery – excellent
Abrasion Resistance – excellent
Water-based Stain Resistance – good to excellent
Oil-based Stain Resistance – poor
Moisture Absorbency – poor
UV (sunlight) Resistance – poor
Polyester
Referred to as a ‘workhorse’ fiber of the industry
Resilient – wet & dry
Easy-care and packable apparel, furnishings
Dimensional stability
Machine washable
Sunlight-resistant
Good for curtains and draperies
Durable, abrasion-resistant
Industrial uses, sewing thread, work clothes
Oleophillic
Oil stains difficult to remove
Aesthetic superior to nylon
Blends well with other fibers, silk-like
Resilient – wet & dry
Easy-care and packable apparel, furnishings
Dimensional stability
Machine washable
Sunlight-resistant
Good for curtains and draperies
Durable, abrasion-resistant
Industrial uses, sewing thread, work clothes
Oleophillic
Oil stains difficult to remove
Aesthetic superior to nylon
Blends well with other fibers, silk-like
Olefin
Fastest growing fiber in world
Strong
Resistant to abrasion
Inexpensive
Chemically inert
Thermoplastic
Static-resistant

Difficult to dye – Due to the absence of Polar groups
Lightest of all textile fibers (will float on water)
Extremely heat sensitive, low melting point

Excellent wicking abilities - wicks moisture away from the skin
Thinsulste:
low bulk, ultra fine microdenier fiber fill of olefin (produced by 3M)  footwear, ski jackets, outerwear
Acrylic
Acrylic fibers are soft, warm, lightweight, and resilient
“Warmth without weight”  Wool Substitute
Not as durable as nylon, polyester, or olefin fibers
Hypo-allergenic
Durability, Comfort, Appearance Retention = Moderate
Machine-washable
Wet Spinning: Imparts a round or lima bean shape to some fibers
Higher bending stiffness
Resiliency
Bulky sweaters & blankets
Dry Spinning: Produces a dog-bone shaped fibers
Softness
luster

All production of acrylic fibers in the U.S. is staple fiber
Modacrylic
Modacrylics were the first inherently flame-retardant synthetic fibers
Do not support combustion
Very difficult to ignite
Self-extinguishing
Durability and Comfort:
Less durable that acrylics
Similar to wool
Moderate abrasion resistance
Poor conductor of heat
Soft, warm, and resilient, but have a tendency to pill
Appearance and Care:

Typically do not wrinkle
Moderate dimensional stability
High elastic recovery
Resistant to mildew and moths
Good resistance to sunlight
Can be washed or dry-cleaned
Nice appearance can be lost by improper care
Special Use Fibers
Fibers that are unique in characteristic:
Elastomeric
Protective

Produced in much smaller quantities
Either in small quantities in products OR
In items with a relatively small market segment
Price $ per pound is higher than other fibers discussed.
Elastometer Fibers
Elastomer: is a natural or synthetic polymer that, at room temperature, can be stretched repeatedly to at least twice its original length
After which, it will immediately return to approximately its original length

Rubber
Anidex (no longer produced in US)
Spandex rearrange “expand” and add a “s”. 
Excellent elongation
Excellent elasticity (retraction)
Strong retractive forces provide good compression for specialized products
Types of Stretch
Power Stretch
Elastic fibers with a high retractive force are used to attain power stretch
Important in end uses for which holding power and elasticity are needed.
Foundation garments
Surgical-support garments
Swimsuits
Garters
Belts
suspenders
Comfort stretch
Comfort stretch fabrics look like non-stretch fabrics
Their weight is lighter that that of power-stretch fabrics
Important in products for which only elasticity is desired
Apparel products
Furnishings
Rubber
Natural rubber is the oldest elastomer and the least expensive

Obtained by coagulation of the latex form the rubber tree Hevea brasiliensis

Manufacturing process:
synthetic & natural rubbers are vulcanized or cross-linked with sulfur.
Excellent elongation
500-600 percent
Excellent recovery
Low tenacity – which limits its use in lightweight garments

Low dye acceptance
Poor hand
Poor appearance
rubber strand being covered by a yarn of another fiber or by other yarns in fabric

Rubber lacks resistance to oxidizing agents
Damaged by:
Aging
Sunlight
Oil
Perspiration
Heat
Chlorine
Solvents

Rubber should be washed with care (hand-washing with delicate detergent)
Never dry-cleaned
Spandex
1st manufactured elastic fiber - 1958
Called “Lycra” and “elastane”
Superior to rubber in strength and durability

Wet of melt spinning
Spinning solution may contain:
de-lusterig agents (produces white or gray)
dye receptors
whiteners
Lubricants

20 denier – large amount of stretch is desired
Lightweight support hosiery
1500-2240 denier – less stretch is desired
Support in hosiery tops
Swimwear
Foundation garments
Consists of rigid and flexible segments in the polymer chain
Flexible segments provide the stretch
Rigid segments hold the chain together

More resistant to degradation than rubber
Resistant to:
body oils
Perspiration
Lotions
Cosmetics
Good shelf-life
Does not deteriorate with age as quickly as rubber
Flex life is 10X greater than rubber

Moisture regain of .75 – 1.3%, making spandex uncomfortable for skin contact
Thermoplastic (melting point of 446-518 deg. F)
Superior ageing compared to rubber
Resists soiling
Retains an attractive appearance
HOWEVER, over time – coarser spandex fibers may rupture and work through the fabric – “grin-through”

Support
Shape
Mold the body
Keep textiles from stretching out of shape during use
Primarily used in:
Knit foundation garments
Action-wear
Compression sportswear
Intimate apparel
Shape-wear
Hosiery
Furnishings
Narrow fabrics
Aramid
Trade names: Nomex, Kevlar, Conex & Fenilon

Wet or dry spun
Dog-bone shaped under high microscopic view
High tenacity
High resistance to:
stretch
high temperatures
Most chemicals
Impact
Abrasion
Sunlight – moderate
Oleophilic
Prone to static build-up (unless finished

Lightweight
Fatigue resistant
Damage resistant
Exceptional strength!
5X stronger than steel!
Exceptional fire-resistance
Difficult to dye

Glass
Does not burn
Causes skin irritations
Excellent insulator with dead air spaces
Very heavy
Resists chemicals
No absorption (does not dye)
Not affected by sunlight at all
Metallics
Gold and silver have been used since ancient times as yarns for fabric decoration.

2 processes are used to make metallic fibers:
1. Laminating process
- seals a layer of aluminum between 2 layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarns (figure 9-9)
2. Metalizing process
- vaporizes the aluminum under high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film.
- produces thinner, more flexible, more durable, and more comfortable fibers
Stainless Steel
Most extensively used metallic fiber

Cannot be dyed
Reduces static charge in carpet
Blended with other fibers
Found:
Garments used in clean rooms
Tire cord
Wiring
Missile nose cones
Corrective heart surgery
Novoloid
Withstands 2500 degrees C from torch
Does not melt, burn, or fuse
The yarns carbonize
Used in:
Protective clothing and fabrics
Chemical filters
Gaskets
Packing materials
Expensive!
PBI
Condensation polymer that is dry-spun
Does not burn or melt & has very low shrinkage when exposed to a flame
Used in:
Heat-resistant apparel for firefighters
Astronauts
Fuel handlers
Race car drivers
Welders
Hospital workers
Sulfar
Produced by melt spinning
Gold in color
Used in:
filtration fabrics
fire fighters uniforms
electrolysis membranes
and other high performance(protective) applications.
Saran
The raw material is melt-spun, and stretched to orient the molecules (make more crystalline)
Produced in both staple and filament form
Used in:
Seat covers
Furniture webbing
Screening
Dolly hair & wigs
Agriculture protective fabric to shade delicate plants (tobacco & ginseng)
Rugs, draperies, upholsteries
Good weathering properties
Chemical resistant
Stretch resistant
Tough- Durable fiber
Off-white in color, with slight yellowish tint

Absorbs little to no moisture  dries rapidly
Difficult to dye, therefore mass pigmentation is used
No static charge
Does not support combustion
Exposed to flame  softens, then chars, and decomposes @ 115°C
Immune to biological attack
Vinyon
Very heat sensitive
Dissolves in acetone
Dry-spun
Cross section shape:
Irregular
Round
Dog-bone
Dumbbell shaped

Softens at 150-170° F (should NOT be ironed or pressed)
Unaffected by:
Moisture
Chemicals
Insects
Biological attacks
Poor conductor of electricity
Flame retardant
Bonding agent for:
Rugs
Papers
Nonwoven fabrics
Vinal
Not made in U.S.
When vinal fibers are extruded through the spinneret, they are water-soluble and must be cross-linked with formaldehyde to make them non-water-soluble.
Fiber has a smooth, slightly grainy appearance
U-shaped cross section
Weaker when wet
Uses:
Fishing nets
Filter fabrics
Tarps
Brush bristles
PTFE
Polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE (teflon)
Fluoropolymer
Uses:
Coating for cookware
Soil-resistant finish
“Teflon”
Used in HazMat protective clothing
Emulsion Spinning – polymerization and extrusion occur simultaneously
1. polymer is dispersed as fine particles in a carrier
2. dispersed polymer is extruded through a spinneret and coalesced by heating
Carrier is removed by heating or dissolving

Resists:
Chemicals
Sunlight
Weathering
aging

Gore-Tex -- Tradename for fabrics that have a thin microporous film of PTFE.
Fabric used for outerwear
Wind and liquid/water-resistant BUT with water-vapor –permeablity
Carbon
Fiber that is at least 96% pure carbon
Made from precursor fibers (rayon), then heated to remove O, N, and H.

Excellent heat resistance –
Does not ignite or melt.
Used in:
protective clothing
golf clubs
bicycle bodies
bone grafts