Textiles

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acid dyes

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complete color range(bright)
poor color wash fastness
wool, silk, nylon, rayon, acrylic and polyester

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azoic dyes

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color range, moderate cost, bright shades
good to excellent wash fastness
crocks
coton and some polyester

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batch dyeing/exhaust dyeing

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textile process circulated through dye bath . Any stage of production. short yards.

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batik

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hand process in which hot wax is applied to fabric in a design.

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bezold effect

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two or more colors made into a single color. used in small scale print.

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bleeding

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when water reacts with a fabric and it's dye bleeds off and possibly onto another.

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block printing

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hand process, oldest technique for decorating textiles. expensive and slow. pattern carved into a block.

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cationic dyes

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basic, fast colors on acrylics, may bleed and crock on natural fibers, poor fastness to light, washing and perspiration.

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colorant

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general term used to describe materials used to add dye to a fabric.

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color matching

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occurs when lab dip and color standard are within tolerance.

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color measurement

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process of assigning numerical values to a color, is done to facilitate color matching and shade sorting.

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color standard

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large sample of fabric or precise and accurate digital information that represents the desired color.

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differential printing

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unique looks possible, limited to carpet. less precise patterns.

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colorfastness

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dyes and prints that do not shift hue or fade when exposed to light, age, processing or use.

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colorways

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different color options available for a fabric

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continuous dyeing

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efficient for long runs, but color tolerances may be relaxed because of variables involved

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crocking

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color loss from rubbing or abrasion

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cross dyeing

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piece of dyeing of fabrics, sometimes yarns made of fibers from different generic groups

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developed dyes

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complete color range, primarily cellulose fibers, discharge prints, duller than acid or basic. great light fastness. micro drops of colored liquid ink are applied through tiny nozzles onto the fabric.

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Digital printing

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printing onto the fabric at precise points with a computer.

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direct dyes

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commercially significant class, cool color range. majorly popular cellulostic fibers, good color fast to light.

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direct printing

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pretreating textile with a solution and then dyeing the area for a predetermined amount of time.

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direct-roller printing

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multiple engraved rollers of different colors print an image onto the fabric.

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discharge printing

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piece dyed fabrics in which the designs are made by removing color from selected fabric areas.

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disperse dyes

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dyes that are water soluble

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duplex printing

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auomatic printing of sheet paper from both sides of a fabric.

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dye

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complex organic compound that is used to add color to materials by binding with them

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dye process

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digital, color bath, batch, print, block, roller

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electrostatic printing

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prepared screen is covered with powered with a carrier that has dielectric properties

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fiber dyeing

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to achieve molted or heather effects, dye is added to loose staple fibers before yarn is spun.

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flatbed screen printing

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500-1000 m is used for circumferences the can't handle

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fluorescent dyes

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absorbs light in 1 wavelength and re-emits that energy into another

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foam printing

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wet print method using colorant that is dispersed in foam. saves water.

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foil printing

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an adhesive is applied to the fabric by a flatbed or rotary screen heat transfer

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frosting

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when colored portion of fibers or yarns are abraded. occurs in union dyes.

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garment dyed

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product is cut, sewn into a finished product

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heat transfer printing

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special transfer to fabric from paper using heat.

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ikat

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ancient form of resist. fabric is tie dyed and then woven.

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jet dyeing

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fabric is processed in a continuous loop. good for delicate fibers. vigorous agitation of dye bath and fabric

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jig dyeing

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used stationary dye bath with 2 rolls above bath. fabric is carried through back and forth regularly.

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lab dip

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sample that dye house sends to creative when a color match has been achieved.

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level

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describes color that looks the same throughout a product

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liquor ratio

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weight of solution compared to textile weight

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mass pigmentation

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solution dyeing, excellent fastness. good for hard to dye fibers, slow, expensive and produces a level fiber.

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metamerism

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2 colors match under one light source, but not under another

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reactive dyes

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combines chemically with fiber. most important dye class used on cotton and cellulose fibers.

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rotary screen print fabric

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done with cylindrical metal mesh. screens similar to flat screen. continuous process.

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screen printing

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simple, versatile process. like stencils. separate screen is used for each color.

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ammoniating finish

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alternative to mercerization used on cotton fabrics or yarns treated with weak ammonia at high temperatures. passed through hot water, then stretched, dried in hot air.

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batch processing

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relatively short length of fabric (100 yards) is processed as a unit one at a time in a single machine.

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bio-polish

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the use of cellulose enzyme treatment to remove surface fuzz from spun yarns of cellulose or cellulose blends.

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bleaching

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the process of whitening fibers, yarns or fabrics by removing natural but irregular color.

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calendaring

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mechanical finish operation performed by passing the fabric through a series of rollers.

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carbonizing

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the treatment of wool yarns or fabrics with sulfic acid. It destroys plant matter in the fabric and allows for more level dyeing.

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continuous processing

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works with longer pieces of fabric that move in and out of a solution.

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converted/finished goods

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have received wet or dry finishing treatments such as bleaching, dyeing or embossing.

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converter

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perform a service for mills by finishing goods to order. in which case they are paid, although they never own the fabric they sell.

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crabbing

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finishing process used to set wool fabrics where they are immersed in hot water, then cold and passed between rollers.

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decating

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produces a smooth, wrinkle-free finish and lofty hand on woolen and worsted fabrics and blends or manufactured fibers.

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desizing

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the sizing added to the warp yarns is removed.

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drying

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frequently done especially with cellulose to minimize mildew and weight.

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durable finish

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ex: wrinkle resistance, may last for life of the product, but diminishes with age.

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fabrication

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normally follows sizing, in the fabrication step, the fabric is woven, knit, or created in some other manner.

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fabric inspection

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done by moving fabrics over an inverted frame in good light.

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finish

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any process that is done to a fiber, yarn or fabric from a raw form to the form that consumers expect.

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foam finishing

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low wet pickup and decreased amount of chemicals needed.

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gray goods

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products before wet or dry finishing operations.

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handling

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the physical form of the fabric during finishing.

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heat setting

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the fabric is places on a tenter frame and passed through an oven, where temperature and time are controlled.

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mercerization

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the process of treating a cellulose fabric or yarn with an alkali.

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mill-finished

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fabrics are sold and used without further finishing.

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minimum

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describes the smallest quantity of a fabric a buyer can purchase from a mill.

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open-width finishing

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the fabric is held out to it's full width.

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optical brighteners

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whiten off-white fabrics

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pickup

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the amount of liquid or chemical that a fabric absorbs.

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plasma treatment

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changes the surface nature of textiles with thin, inexpensive, functional coatings in ways not possible from any other finishing technology.

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renewable finish

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some water repellent finishes can be applied by the consumer or reapplied by dry cleaners.

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repairing

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when economically feasible, flaws are corrected and marked by professionals.

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reworking

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inspecting fabrics for defects or flaws and repairing.

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rope or tubular finishing

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fabric is allowed to roll and fold in on itself to form a tube or rope.

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run

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describes the quantity of fabric receiving the same processing at the same time.

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scouring

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removing of soil from fabric.

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singeing

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burns off any fiber ends protruding from the fabric.

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sizing/slashing

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warp yarns are treated before being threaded onto the loom for weaving.

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slack mercerization

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cotton fabric is dipped at low tension into an alkali.

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tentering

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applies lengthwise and crosswise tension to fabric as it dries.