Cosmetology Milady's Ch 19 Haircoloring

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ACTIVATORS

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Powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.

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ANILINE DERIVATIVES

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Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules

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BALIAGE OR FREE-FORM TECHNIQUE

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Painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean styled hair.

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BASE COLOR

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Predominant tone of a color.

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CAP TECHNIQUE

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Lightening technique that involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook.

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COLOR FILLERS

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Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair.

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COMPLEMENTARY COLORS

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Primary and secondary color combinations that are directly opposite from each other on the color wheel.

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CONDITIONER FILLERS

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Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair, and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends.

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CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT

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Natural hair color that remains in the hair when the natural color is lightened; must be taken into consideration when hair color is selected. Also called undertone.

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DEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

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Also called no-lift, deposit-only color. Formulated to deposit, but not lift (lighten) natural hair color. Demipermanent colors are able to deposit without lifting because they are less alkaline than permanent colors and are mixed with a low-volume developer.

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DEVELOPER

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Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.

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DOUBLE-PROCESS APPLICATION

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Coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before the depositing color is applied; also called two-step coloring.

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FILLERS

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Used to equalize porosity.

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FOIL TECHNIQUE

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Highlighting techniue that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving our sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap.

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GLAZE

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A nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair.

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HAIR COLOR

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The natural color of hair.

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HAIRCOLOR

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Professional, salon industry term referring to artificial haircolor products and services.

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HAIR LIGHTENING

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Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called "bleaching" or "decolorizing"

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HIGHLIGHTING

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Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add the illusion of sheen and depth; highlights do not generally contrast strongly with the natural hair color.

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HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOO

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Mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide; used to slightly lighten natural hair color.

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LAW OF COLOR

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System for understanding color relationships.

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LEVEL

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Lightness or darkness of a color. Refers to the saturation, concentration, or density of a color. Answers the question, how much color?

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LEVEL SYSTEM

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System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.

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LIGHTENERS

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Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.

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LINE OF DEMARCATION

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Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.

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METALLIC OR GRADUAL COLORS

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Haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull, metallic appearance.

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NATURAL OR VEGETABLE HAIRCOLORS

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Colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.

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NEW GROWTH

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Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored.

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OFF-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS

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Powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.

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ON-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS

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Oil and cream lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp.

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OXIDATION

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A process by which oxygen is released, occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

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PATCH TEST

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Test for identifying a possible allergy in a client, required by Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Also called predisposition test,

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PERMANENT HAIRCOLORS

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Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in one application. They are more alkaline than no lift deposit only haircolors and mixed with a higher volume.

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PRELIGHTENING

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First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner.

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PRESOFTENING

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Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.

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PRIMARY COLORS

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Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors.

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RESISTANT

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Characteristic of some hair types that makes penetration by moisture or chemicals difficult.

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REVERS HIGHLIGHTING OR LOWLIGHTING

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Technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color.

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SECONDARY COLOR

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Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.

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SEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

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No-lift, deposit only, nonoxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos.

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SINGLE-PROCESS HAIRCOLORING

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Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application.

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SLICING

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Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8" (0.3 centimeter) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color.

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SOAP CAP

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Combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo applied to the hair like a regular shampoo.

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SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLORING

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Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring.

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TEMPORARY HAIRCOLOR

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Nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.

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TERTIARY COLOR

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Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.

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TONE

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Also called hue of color; the balance of color.

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TONERS

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Semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.

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VIRGIN APPLICATION

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First time hair is colored.

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VOLUME

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Measure of varying strengths (concentration) of hydrogen peroxide; the higher the volume, the greater the lifting action.

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WEAVING

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Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener of color is applied only to these strands.