Cosmetology Milady's Ch 18 Chemical Texture Services

Front 1

ACID-BALANCED WAVES

Back 1

Not true acid waves, as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

Front 2

ALKALINE WAVES (OR COLD WAVES)

Back 2

Have a H between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature.

Front 3

AMINO ACIDS

Back 3

Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen.

Front 4

AMMONIA-FREE WAVES

Back 4

Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia, and are popular because of their low odor.

Front 5

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE

Back 5

Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

Front 6

BASE CREAM OR PROTECTIVE CREAM

Back 6

Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.

Front 7

BASE CONTROL

Back 7

Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

Front 8

BASE DIRECTION

Back 8

Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.

Front 9

BASE PLACEMENT

Back 9

The position of hte rod in relation to its base section, and is determined b the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base.

Front 10

BASE RELAXERS

Back 10

Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer.

Front 11

BASE SECTIONS

Back 11

Subsections of panels into which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.

Front 12

BASIC PERM WRAP

Back 12

Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size base; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.

Front 13

BOOKEND WRAP

Back 13

Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.

Front 14

BRICKLAY PERM WRAP

Back 14

Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row.

Front 15

CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING

Back 15

Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.

Front 16

CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES

Back 16

Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair.

Front 17

CONCAVE RODS

Back 17

Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.

Front 18

CORTEX

Back 18

Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair.

Front 19

CROQUIGNOLE PERMS

Back 19

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.

Front 20

CURVATURE PERM WRAP

Back 20

Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.

Front 21

DISULFIDE BONDS

Back 21

Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.

Front 22

DOUBLE FLAT WRAP

Back 22

Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped.

Front 23

DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE

Back 23

Perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other.

Front 24

ENDOTHERMIC WAVES

Back 24

Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.

Front 25

END PAPERS OR END WRAPS

Back 25

Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.

Front 26

EXOTHERMIC WAVES

Back 26

Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing.

Front 27

GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE (GMTG)

Back 27

Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions.

Front 28

HALF OFF-BASE PLACEMENT

Back 28

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section.

Front 29

HYDROGEN BONDS

Back 29

Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools.

Front 30

HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION

Back 30

The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds.

Front 31

HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

Back 31

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 12. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.

Front 32

LANTHIONIZATION

Back 32

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.

Front 33

LOOP OR CIRCLE ROD

Back 33

Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.

Front 34

LOW-PH WAVES

Back 34

Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate.

Front 35

MEDULLA

Back 35

Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair.

Front 36

METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

Back 36

Ionic compounds formed by a mtal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen.

Front 37

NO-BASE RELAXERS

Back 37

Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream.

Front 38

NORMALIZING LOTIONS

Back 38

Conditioners that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing.

Front 39

OFF-BASE PLACEMENT

Back 39

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base section.

Front 40

ON-BASE PLACEMENT

Back 40

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section.

Front 41

PEPTIDE BONDS OR END BONDS

Back 41

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains.

Front 42

POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS

Back 42

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

Front 43

SALT BONDS

Back 43

Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal.

Front 44

SIDE BONDS

Back 44

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.

Front 45

SINLGE FLAT WRAP

Back 45

Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.

Front 46

SOFT BENDER RODS

Back 46

Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape.

Front 47

SOFT CURL PERMANENT

Back 47

Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser.

Front 48

SPIRAL PERM WRAP

Back 48

Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, siliar to the grip on a tennis racket.

Front 49

STRAIGHT RODS

Back 49

Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.

Front 50

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID

Back 50

Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions.

Front 51

THIO NEUTRALIZATION

Back 51

Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form.

Front 52

THIO RELAXERS

Back 52

Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).

Front 53

THIO-FREE WAVES

Back 53

Perm that uses cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent.

Front 54

TRUE ACID WAVES

Back 54

Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.

Front 55

WEAVE TECHNIQUE

Back 55

Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.