Wine - Portugal - Appellations

Front 1

Discuss the Alcobaça IPR.

Back 1

(p328, No. 1, Estremadura VR)
Alcobaça IPR:

These wines from the hills surrounding the old monastic town of Alcobaça are predominantly white. Yields are unfavorably high, producing thin reds and light whites significantly lower in alcohol than wines from surrounding areas.

Arinto, Baga, Fernão Pires, Malvasia, Periquita, Tamarêz, Trincadeira, Vital

Front 2

Discuss the Alenquer IPR.

Back 2

(p328, No. 2, Estremadura VR)
Alenquer IPR:

The valley-side vineyards of Alenquer are well-suited to viticulture, ripening grapes easily and producing full, ripe-flavored reds, with peppery-spicy aromas and soft, easy-going, creamy-dry whites.

Arinto, Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Fernão Pires, Graciano (syn. Tinta Miuda), Jampal, Mortágua, Periquita, Preto Martinho, Vital

1-3 years (new-wave, fruity style), 2-5 years (others)

Quinta de Abrigada * Quinta de Plantos * Quinta do Carneiro

Front 3

Discuss the Almeirim IPR. What is "lezíria"?

Back 3

(p328, No. 3, Ribatejo VR)
Almeirim IPR:

An up-and-coming area in the Ribatejo region, rapidly becoming known as a source for cheap, fruity red and white wines, often from the plains, known locally as "lezíria" and simply sold as "vinho de mesa." Terraced vines on the left bank of the Tagus apparently have more potential.

Arinto, Baga (syn. Poeirinha), Castelão Nacional, Fernão Pires, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Tinta Amarela (syn. Trincadeira Preta), Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

6-18 months

A. C. de Almeirim (including wines under Falcoaria and Quinta das Verandas labels)

Front 4

Discuss the Arrabida IPR.

Back 4

(p328, No. 4, Terras do Sado VR)
Arrabida IPR:

This area on the Setúbal peninsula has well-drained limestone soil and great quality potential, particularly for reds, but whether it takes off as an appellation, when the much wider, more flexible Terras do Sado VR is doing so well, remains to be seen.

Alfrocheiro, Arinto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Periquita (Castelão Francês), Fernão Pires, Muscat d'Alexandrie (syn. Moscatel de Setúbal), Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro

Front 5

Discuss the Arruda IPR.

Back 5

(p328, No. 5, Estremadura VR)
Arruda IPR:

From intensively cultivated hillsides surrounding the town of Arruda in the Estremadura region, come some of Portugal's cheapest, yet reliable, fruity reds.

Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Fernão Pires, Graciano (syn. Tinta Miuda), Jampal, Trincadeira, Vital

1-3 years (new-wave, fruity style), 2-5 years (others)

A. C. de Arruda

Front 6

Discuss the Biscoitos IPR.

Back 6

(p328, No. 7, Azores)
Biscoitos IPR:

Rarely encountered fortified wines produced on the island of Terceira in the Azores.

Arinto, Terrantez, Verdelho

Front 7

Discuss the Cartaxo IPR.

Back 7

(p328, No. 11, Estremadura and Ribatejo VRs)
Cartaxo IPR:

This flat, fertile area overlaps the Estremadura and Ribatejo regions, producing good, fruity, value-for-money reds and whites.

Arinto, Castelão Nacional, Fernão Pires, Periquita, Preto Martinho, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

1-3 years

Almeida

Front 8

Discuss the Castelo Rodrigo IPR.

Back 8

(p328, No. 12, Beiras VR)
Castelo Rodrigo IPR:

These full, spicy reds on the border with Spain, south of the Douro, in the Beiras region, show excellent potential, but have yet to establish an international reputation.

Arinto, Assario Branco (syn. Arinto do Dão), Bastardo, Codo, Fonte Cal, Marufo, Rufete, Touriga Nacional

1-3 years (new-wave, fruity style), 2-5 years (others)

Quinta do Cardo

Front 9

Discuss the Chamusca IPR.

Back 9

(p328, No. 13, Ribatejo VR)
Chamusca IPR:

This subappellation of the Ribatejo region is adjacent to Almeirim and produces similar wines, but not quite of the same potential.

Arinto, Castelão Nacional, Fernão Pires, Periquita, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

Front 10

Discuss the Chaves IPR.

Back 10

(p328, No. 14, Trás-os-Montes VR)
Chaves IPR:

From the upper reaches of the Tâmega River in the Trás-os-Montes VR, this appellation tends to produce a similar but lighter style to that of the Douro DOC.

Bastardo, Boal, Codega (possibly the same as Roupeiro), Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Tinta Carvalha, Tinta Amarela

Front 11

Discuss the Coruche IPR.

Back 11

(p328, No. 16, Ribatejo VR)
Coruche IPR:

This appellation covers wines made from sandy, well-irrigated plains covering the southern half of the Ribatejo region, but Coruche is seldom encountered and has yet to make its mark.

Fernão Pires, Periquita, Preto Martinho, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

Front 12

Discuss the Cova de Beira IPR.

Back 12

(p328, No. 17, Beiras VR)
Cova de Beira IPR:

Located in the Beira Alta, between the Vinho Verde and Dão districts, Cova de Beira is the largest of Portugal's IPRs. As with the Beiras VR, every style of wine is produced in varying quality, but the area is best-known for its lightweight reds.

Arinto, Assario Branco (syn. Arinto do Dão), Jaen, Marufo, Periquita, Pérola, Rabo de Ovelha, Rufete, Tinta Amarela

Front 13

Discuss the Encostas da Aire IPR.

Back 13

(p328, No. 20)
Encostas da Aire IPR:

Overlapping the Beiras and Estremadura regions, the limestone hills of this appellation should produce some excellent wines, but most have so far been light and rather dried-out.

Arinto, Baga, Fernão Pires, Periquita, Tamarêz, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Vital

Front 14

Discuss the Encostas da Nave IPR.

Back 14

(p328, No. 21, Beiras VR)
Encostas da Nave IPR:

Not to be confused with Encostas da Aire, this is a much smaller appellation, located entirely within the Beiras region, adjacent to Varosa, and its wines are much fuller, resembling those of the Douro immediately north, but have yet to establish themselves.

Folgosão, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Mourisco Tinto, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional

Front 15

Discuss the Evora IPR. What do they make especially well?

Back 15

(p328, No. 22, Alentejo VR)
Evora IPR:

This area of the Alentejo region is destined to be one of Portugal's most exciting appellations, especially for full-bodied, creamy-rich red.

Aragonez, Arinto, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Tamarêz, Tinta Caida, Trincadeira

2-5 years

Heredad de Cartuxa * Pêra Manca (branco)

Front 16

Discuss the Graciosa IPR.

Back 16

(p328, No. 23, Azores)
Graciosa IPR:

Rarely encountered light table wines produced on the island of Graciosa in the Azores.

Arinto, Fernão Pires, Terrantez, Verdelho

Front 17

Discuss the Granja Amareleja IPR.

Back 17

(p328, No. 24, Alentejo VR)
Granja Amareleja IPR:

The harsh climate and schistous soils of this subappellation of the Alentejo region can produce powerful, spicy reds, but it has yet to establish itself on export markets.

Manteudo, Moreto, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Trincadeira

Front 18

Discuss the Lafões IPR.

Back 18

(p328, No. 25, Beiras VR)
Lafões IPR:

Light, acidic, red and white wines produced in a small area straddling the Vinho Verde and Dão regions.

Amaral, Arinto, Cerceal, Jaen

Front 19

Discuss the Moura IPR.

Back 19

(p328, No. 29, Alentejo VR)
Moura IPR:

Cool, red clay soil stretches out the grape's ripening period in this hot patch of the Alentejo, adding a certain finesse to the lush, plump fruit in these wines, which promise great things, but the appellation has not yet established itself.

Alfrocheiro, Antão Vaz, Fernão Pires, Moreto, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Trincadeira

Front 20

Discuss the Obidos IPR.

Back 20

(p328, No. 30, Estremadura VR)
Obidos IPR:

The white wines from this area have traditionally been distilled, but the firm, cedary-oaky reds might have potential.

Arinto, Bastardo, Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Fernão Pires, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Tinta Miuda, Vital

Front 21

Discuss the Palmela IPR.

Back 21

(p328, No. 31, Terras do Sado VR)
Palmela IPR:

The Palmela area was first made famous by the João Pires off-dry white made from early-picked Muscat grapes, but it is equally good for full-bodied reds and the inspired, high-volume João Pires now claims the much larger Terras do Sado appellation, as have others, hence there are no recommendations, despite the excellent wines made here.

Alfrocheiro, Arinto, Fernão Pires, Muscat d'Alexandrie (syn. Moscatel de Setúbal), Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Tamarêz, Tinta Amarela (syn. Espadeiro, but no connection with the Espadeiro of Vinho Verde)

Front 22

Discuss the Pico IPR.

Back 22

(p328, No. 32, Azores)
Pico IPR:

Rarely encountered fortified wines produced on the island of Pico in the Azores.

Arinto, Terrantez, Verdelho

Front 23

Discuss the Pinhel IPR.

Back 23

(p328, No. 33, Beiras VR)
Pinhel IPR:

In the Beiras region, just south of the Douro, Pinhel makes dry, full, and earthy-tasting white wines, mostly sold to sparkling-wine producers.

Arinto, Assario Branco (syn. Arinto do Dão), Bastardo, Codo, Fonte Cal, Marufo, Rufete, Touriga Nacional

Front 24

Discuss the Planalto Mirandês IPR.

Back 24

(p328, No. 34, Trás-os-Montes VR)
Planalto Mirandês IPR:

In the Trás-os-Montes region, in the very northeastern corner of Portugal, Planalto Mirandês borders Spain, producing full-bodied reds and heavy whites.

Bastardo, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Mourisco Tinto, Rabo de Ovelha (syn. Rabigato), Tinta Amarela, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional, Viosinho

Front 25

Discuss the Santarém IPR.

Back 25

(p328, No. 39, Ribatejo VR)
Santarém IPR:

A new appellation for the area around the capital of the Ribatejo region, Santarém should begin to establish itself over the next few years.

Arinto, Castelão Nacional, Fernão Pires, Periquita, Preto Martinho, Rabo de Ovelha, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

Front 26

Discuss the Tomar IPR.

Back 26

(p328, No. 42, Ribatejo VR)
Tomar IPR:

Red and white wines grown on limestone slopes of the right bank of the Tagus River in the Ribatejo region.

Arinto, Baga, Castelão Nacional, Fernão Pires, Malvasia, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália)

Front 27

Discuss the Torres Vedras IPR.

Back 27

(p328, No. 43, Estremadura VR)
Torres Vedras IPR:

Originally called simply "Torres" until Miguel Torres objected, these high-yielding vineyards in the Estremadura region of Portugal have traditionally supplied the largest producers with bulk wines for their high-volume branded "vinho de mesa."

Arinto, Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Fernão Pires, Graciano (syn. Tinta Miuda), Jampal, Mortágua, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Seara Nova, Vital

Front 28

Discuss the Valpaços IPR.

Back 28

(p328, No. 44, Trás-os-Montes VR)
Valpaços IPR:

Firm reds and slightly pétillant rosés from the upper reaches of the Tua, a tributary of the Douro, in the Trás-os-Montes region.

Bastardo, Boal, Codega (possibly the same as Roupeiro), Cornifesto, Fernão Pires, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Mourisco Tinto, Rabo de Ovelha (syn. Rabigato), Tempranillo (syn. Tinta Roriz), Tinta Amarela, Tinta Carvalha, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional

Front 29

Discuss the Varosa IPR.

Back 29

(p328, No. 45, Beiras VR)
Varosa IPR:

Like Pinhel, this Beiras subappellation has yet to establish a reputation above that of being a traditional source of base wines for the sparkling-wine industry.

Alvarelhão, Arinto, Borrado das Moscas, Cercial, Chardonnay, Fernão Pires, Folgosão, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo (syn. Tinta Roriz), Tinta Barroca, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional

Front 30

Discuss the Alentejo VR.

Back 30

(p328)
Alentejo VR:

Stretching up from the Algarve, the plains of Alto and Baixo Alentejo cover about one-third of Portugal. A sparsely populated area with large estates and a scattering of vines, Alentejo is better known for cork than vineyards, even though it has produced some of the country's most outstanding one-off wines and has achieved this with both indigenous and imported grape varieties.

Abundante, Alfrocheiro Preto, Alicante Bouschet, Antão Vaz, Arinto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Chardonnay, Diagalves, Fernão Pires, Grand Noir, Manteudo, Moreto, Palomino (syn. Perrum), Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Tempranillo (syn. Aragonez), Trincadeira

1-3 years (new-wave, fruity style), 2-5 years (others)

Apostolo * Cortes de Cima * Esporão (other brands include Monte Velha) * J. P. Vinhos (Quinta da Anfora) * Herdade de Mouchão * José de Sousa * Pêra Manca * A. C. de Reguengos * Quinta do Carmo * Sogrape (Vinha do Monte) * Tapada do Chaves

Front 31

Discuss the Algarve VR.

Back 31

(p328)
Algarve VR:

The downgrading of Algarve to Vinho Regional was just a smoke-screen to gain acceptance for its four new internal DOCs: Lagos, Portimão, Lagoa, and Tavira. Lagoa used to have a reputation for fortified whites, which is not surprising considering its proximity to Jerez, but although wine is still produced, none of any interest, fortified or not, is made in the Algarve these days. It is wise to remember that the tourist economy, not quality, regulates wine appellations in the Algarve.

Arinto, Bastardo, Diagalves, Moreto, Negra Mole, Periquita, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha, Tamarêz d'Algarve (possibly the same as Roupeiro)

Adega do Cantor

Front 32

Discuss the Beiras VR. What are the three provinces?

Back 32

(p328)
Beiras VR:

Located in the north of Portugal, encompassing the three Beira provinces of Alta, Baixa, and Litoral, containing the DOCs of Dão and Bairrada, plus the IPRs of Castelo Rodrigo, Cova de Beira, Lafões, Lamego, Pinhel, Varosa, Encostas da Nave, and most of Encostas d'Aire, Beiras produces virtually every imaginable style of wine made, but standards vary enormously.

Arinto, Baga, Bastardo, Borrado das Moscas (syn. Bical), Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Cerceal, Esgana Cão, Fernão Pires, Jaen, Malvasia, Marufo, Monvedro, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Rufete, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Touriga Nacional, Verdelho, Vital

1-3 years (new-wave, fruity style), 2-5 years (others)

Bright Brothers (Baga) * Buçaco * Conde de Santar (Reserva) * Entre Serras * João Pato * Quinta de Foz de Arouce

Front 33

Discuss the Estremadura VR.

Back 33

(p328)
Estremadura VR:

From Lisbon, Estremadura stretches north to the Bairrada region and encompasses the DOCs of Bucelas, Carcavelos, and Colares, plus the IPRs of Alenquer, Arruda, Obidos, Torres Vedras, and, in part, Encostas d'Aire (which overlaps Beiras) and Cartaxo (which overlaps Ribatejo). This is Portugal's largest wine-producing region in terms of volume (although Beiras and Alentejo are much larger geographically) and, as such, Estremadura is often perceived as a source of cheap, uninteresting wine. While there are indeed cheap wines made here, they are good guzzlers and far from uninteresting, with a few quintas making much finer, more serious wines that are not remotely expensive.

Alfrocheiro Preto, Antão Vaz, Arinto, Baga, Bastardo, Borrado das Moscas (syn. Bical), Cabernet Sauvignon, Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Chardonnay, Esgana Cão, Fernão Pires, Graciano (syn. Tinta Miuda), Jampal, Malvasia, Moreto, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Ramisco, Tamarêz, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

2-4 years (reds, 4-8 years for better wines), 1-3 years (whites)

A. C. do Arruda (selected cuvées) * A. C. de São Mamede da Ventosa * A. C. do Torres Vedras (selected cuvées) * Espiga * Quinta da Folgorosa * Quinta de Pancas * Palha Canas

Front 34

Discuss the Ribatejo VR.

Back 34

(p328)
Ribatejo VR:

This large province is sandwiched between Estremadura and Alentejo, and includes the following IPRs: Almeirim, Cartaxo (in part), Chamusca, Coruche, Santarém, Tomar, and Valada do Ribatejo. The temperate climate and rich alluvial plains of the Tagus River encourage high yields, making this the second most important wine region in Portugal. Some very good wines are made by those who restrict yields, particularly by Peter Bright in collaboration with the Fuiza family's vineyards.

Arinto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Camarate (possibly the same as Castelão Nacional), Carignan, Chardonnay, Esgana Cão, Fernão Pires, Jampal, Malvasia Fina, Malvasia Rei (possibly the same as Palomino), Merlot, Periquita, Pinot Noir, Rabo de Ovelha, Sauvignon, Syrah, Tamarêz, Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta), Tinta Miuda, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália), Vital

1-5 years (reds), 1-3 years (whites)

Bright Brothers * Falua * Fuiza * Quinta da Lagoalva * Terra de Lobos

Front 35

Discuss the Rios do Minho VR.

Back 35

(p328)
Rios do Minho VR:

A sort of "vin de pays" Vinhos Verdes, except that this appellation also allows for still table wines from foreign varieties. Predictably lightweight.

Alvarinho, Arinto (syn. Paderna), Avesso, Azal Branco, Azal Tinto, Batoca, Borracal, Brancelho (syn. Alvarelho), Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Espadeiro, Loureiro, Merlot, Padreiro de Basto, Pedral, Rabo de Ovelha, Riesling, Trajadura, Vinhão (possibly the same as Sousão)

Front 36

Discuss the Terras do Sado VR.

Back 36

(p328)
Terras do Sado VR:

Probably the most clever appellation the Portugese could conjure up, Terras do Sado covers a fairly large area fanning out from the Sado estuary far beyond the Setúbal peninsula, where a good many innovative wines originated, but their development had been threatened by the urban sprawl south of Lisbon. If such wines take up the Terras do Sado appellation, they can be sourced from a much wider area. João Pires, Periquita, Quinta de Camarate, and Quinta da Bacalhôa have all claimed this humble VR status without it affecting the prices they command, which has made Terras do Sado an attractive appellation for future new wines.

Red: At least 50% Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Moscatel Roxo, Periquita (Castelão Francês), Tinta Amarela (Trincadeira Preta) and Touriga Nacional, plus up to 50% Alfrocheiro Preto, Alicante Bouschet, Bastardo, Carignan, Grand Noir, Monvedro, Moreto, Tinto Miuda

White: At least 50% Arinto, Chardonnay, Fernão Pires, Malvasia Fina, Muscat d'Alexandrie (syn. Moscatel de Setúbal) and Roupeiro, plus up to 50% Antão Vaz, Esgana Cão, Sauvignon, Rabo de Ovelha, Trincadeira das Pratas (syn. Tamarêz d'Azeitão), Ugni Blanc (syn. Tália)

1-3 years (new-wave style), 2-5 years (others)

J. M. Fonseca (João Pires, Periquita, Quinta de Camarate Tinto) * J. P. Vinhos (Quinta da Bacalhôa, Cova da Ursa)

Front 37

Discuss the Trás-os-Montes VR. What is the most important wine made in terms of volume?

Back 37

(p328)
Trás-os-Montes VR:

The province of Trás-os-Montes is situated in northeastern Portugal, and encompasses the IPRs of Chaves, Valpaços, and Planalto-Mirandês. The style of wine ranges from light-bodied in the higher altitude vineyards to full-bodied and alcoholic in the south. But the most important wine made in terms of volume is semisweet, semi-sparkling rosado.

Bastardo, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Donzelinho, Gewürztraminer, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Merlot, Mourisco Tinto, Pinot Noir, Rabo de Ovelha (syn. Rabigato), Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Tempranillo (syn. Tinta Roriz), Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional, Viosinho

1-3 years (new-wave style), 2-5 years (others)

Casal de Valle Pradinhos * Quintas dos Bons Ares

Front 38

Discuss the Bairrada DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 38

(p328, No. 6, Beiras VR)
Bairrada DOC:

This area produces one of Portugal's two most important red wines and the best have a deep color with good tannin and fine, bell pepper-blackcurranty fruit. However, it is only just beginning to demonstrate its potential for white wines. Sogrape's Nobilis exemplifies Bairrada's fast-emerging rosé style, which really hits the spot with its freshness and depth of fruit.

Baga, Borrado das Moscas (syn. Bical), Castelão Francês, Fernão Pires (syn. Maria Gomes), Rabo de Ovelha, Tinta Pinheira

3-12 years (reds), 1-3 years (rosés and whites)

José Maria da Fonseca * Gonçalves Faria (Reserva) * Luis Pato (especially Quinta do Ribeirinho Vinhos Velhos) * Quinta de Pedralvites * Casa de Saima * Caves São João * Sogrape (Reserva, Nobilis Rosé) * Terra Franca (tinto)

Front 39

Discuss the Borba DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 39

(p328, No. 8, Alentejo VR)
Borba DOC:

The first subappellation of the Alentejo region to gain recognition outside of Portugal itself, especially for its inexpensive, juicy red wines.

Aragonez, Periquita, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Tamarêz, Trincadeira

1-3 years

A. C. de Borba (Reserva)

Front 40

Discuss the Bucelas DOC. What grape grows particularly well there? What is holding the region back?
(Portugal)

Back 40

(p328, No. 9, Estremadura VR)
Bucelas DOC:

The Arinto grape grows particularly well on the loam soil of this small district, but the antiquated winemaking methods are still holding back what is obviously a potentially fine white-wine appellation. Cool fermentation, early bottling, and a delicate touch of new oak would make this wine an international superstar, but so many wines are dried-out and overacidic. Quinta da Romeira is the most consistent Bucelas, and is recommended in this context, but has failed to live up to its promise.

Arinto, Esgana Cão

Drink upon purchase

Quinta da Romeira (Prova Régia)

Front 41

Discuss the Carcavelos DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 41

(p328, No. 10, Estremadura VR)
Carcavelos DOC:

Famous in Portugal itself since the late 18th century when the Marquis of Pombal owned a large vineyard and winery here. This area's oldest surviving vineyard, Quinta do Barão, stopped production in 1991, but a relatively new one, Quinta dos Pesos, is trying desperately to rekindle interest in Carcavelos. Rarely seen on export markets, it is a topaz-colored, off-dry fortified wine with a nutty aroma, delicate almondy flavor, and a velvety texture.

Arinto, Boal, Galego Dourado, Negra Mole, Trincadeira, Torneiro

5-20 years

Quinta dos Pesos

Front 42

Discuss the Colares DOC. What is it famous for? What is holding it back?
(Portugal)

Back 42

(p328, No. 15, Estremadura VR)
Colares DOC:

This small wine area is famous for its ungrafted Ramisco vines planted in trenches dug out of the sandy dunes of Sintra, which not only protects them from salt-blighting Atlantic winds, but also from the dreaded phylloxera louse. This is a historic wine, but should not be vinified in such an antiquated fashion if it is going to appeal to modern consumers. If the greatest Bordeaux châteaux have moved with the times, why not Colares? The reds are well-colored and full-bodied, but have so much tannin that they are mouth-puckeringly astringent, smoothing out to a silky finish only with great age, when there is no fruit left. If the grapes could be picked according to tannin-ripeness, rather than fruit-ripeness, and more careful fermentation techniques employed, Colares could be world class. The dry whites are traditional maduro-style and not recommended.

Arinto, Jampal, Galego Dourado, Malvasia, Ramisco

15-30 years (red)

Antonio Bernardino Paulo da Silva (Chitas)

Front 43

Discuss the Dão DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 43

(p328, No. 18, Beiras VR)
Dão DOC:

For 20 years there have been rumors that Dão wines have more fruit and less tannin, but only over the past five have we seen this promise fulfilled in the glass, as fruit-filled Dão have begun to emerge.

They have sufficient fruit to drink much earlier than the old-style Dão wines, but have a certain structure and dry, spicy-finesse that expresses their Portugese origins. The best whites can be clean and fresh, but not yet truly special, although the Quinta de Saes branco is surprisingly good, especially when consumed with food.

Alfrocheiro Preto, Assario Branco (syn. Arinto do Dão), Barcelo, Bastardo, Borrado das Moscas, Cercial, Encruzado, Jaen, Tempranillo (syn. Tinta Roriz), Tinta Pinheira, Touriga Nacional, Verdelho

3-8 years (reds), 1-3 years (whites)

José Maria da Fonseca (Garrafeira P) * Campos da Silva Olivera * Casa da Insua * Duque de Viseu

Front 44

Discuss the Douro DOC. What outstanding table wine is produced there?
(Portugal)

Back 44

(p328, no. 19, Trás-os-Montes VR)
Douro DOC:

Known principally for its port, the Douro Valley in fact makes as much table wine as fortified wine. Because the finest Port is produced on schist soils, most table wines are relegated to areas of the region's other dominant soil, granite. The Douro's table wine quality potential is highlighted by Barca Velha, Portugal's most expensive table wine, made by Ferreira at Quinta do Vale de Meão, although its second wine, Reserva Especial, is often just as good, if not better. Is it a coincidence that across the Spanish frontier, where the Douro becomes the Duero, Vega Sicilia, Spain's most expensive wine, grows on its banks? There is nothing porty about these table wines, which range from the lighter, claret types to the fuller, richer Burgundian style. New oak is almost de rigueur for premium quality wines.

Bastardo, Donzelinho Branco, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina, Rabigato (probably not the same as Rabigato syn. Rabo de Ovelha), Mourisco Tinto, Tempranillo (syn. Tinta Roriz), Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Viosinho

2-10 years (red, but up to 25 for Barca Velha), 1-4 years (white)

Bright Brothers * Ferreirinha (Barca Velha, Reserva Especial) * Niepoort (Redoma and especially Charme Douro) * Quinta do Côtto (Grande Escholha) * Quinta do Crasto * Quinta de Passadouro * Quinta de la Rosa * Quinta do Vale da Raposa * Ramos-Pinto (Duas Quintas) * Sogrape (Reserva) * Vale do Bomfim (Reserva)

Front 45

Discuss the Lagoa DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 45

(p328, No. 26)
Lagoa DOC:

Formerly known for fortified white wines, which are still made, but are not of interest, this subappellation of the Algarve does not deserve its DOC classification.

Crato Branco, Negra Mole, Periquita

Front 46

Discuss the Lagos DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 46

(p328, No. 27, Algarve VR)
Lagos DOC:

These Algarve wines do not deserve their DOC classification.

Boal Branco, Negra Mole, Periquita

Front 47

Discuss the Portalegre DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 47

(p328, No. 35, Alentejo VR)
Portalegre DOC:

Powerful, yet elegant, spicy reds, and rather heavy, alcoholic whites produced in the Alentejo region, adjacent to the Spanish frontier.

Aragonez, Arinto, Assário, Fernão Pires, Galego, Grand Noir, Manteudo, Periquita, Roupeiro, Trincadeira

Front 48

Discuss the Portimão DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 48

(p328, No. 36, Algarve VR)
Portimão DOC:

These Algarve wines do not deserve their DOC classification.

Crato Branco, Negra Mole, Periquita

Front 49

Discuss the Redondo DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 49

(p328, No. 37)
Redondo DOC:

A subappellation within the progressive Alentejo region, Redondo shows promise for the sort of gushy, upfront, fruity reds that are popping up all over Portugal at grassroots level.

Aragonez, Fernão Pires, Manteudo, Moreto, Periquita, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Tamarez, Trincadeira

1-3 years

A. C. de Redondo

Front 50

Discuss the Reguengos DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 50

(p328, No. 38, Alentejo VR)
Reguengos DOC:

An up-and-coming DOC in the Alentejo, Reguengos is already producing both gluggy and much finer reds, plus increasingly good whites, making it an appellation to watch.

Aragonez, Manteudo, Moreto, Periquita, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Trincadeira

1-3 years (new-wave, fruity style), 2-5 years (others)

A. C. de Reguengos (tinto) * J. P. Vinhos (Quinta da Anfora)

Front 51

Discuss the Setúbal DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 51

(p328, No. 40, Terras do Sado VR)
Moscatel de Setúbal
Setúbal DOC:

This style of fortified Muscat wine is believed to have been created by José-Maria da Fonseca, the old-established company that still has a quasi-monopoly over its production today. There are various wood-aged styles (5- or 6-Year-Old is the best for freshness and the grapey-apricoty varietal character, while 20- or 25-Year-Old is darker and far more complex with a raisiny-nutty-caramel-apricoty intensity), but single-vintage Setúbal is top of the range.

Muscat d'Alexandrie (syn. Moscatel de Setúbal), Moscatel do Douro, Moscatel Roxo plus up to 30% Arinto, Boais, Diagalves, Fernão Pires, Malvasia, Olho de Lebre, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Tália, Tamarêz, Vital

Drink upon purchase

J. M. Fonseca

Front 52

Discuss the Tavira DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 52

(p328, No. 41, Algarve VR)
Tavira DOC:

These Algarve wines do not deserve their DOC classification.

Crato Branco, Negra Mole, Periquita

Front 53

Discuss the Vidigueira DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 53

(p328, No. 46, Alentejo VR)
Vidigueira DOC:

This appellation takes its name from one of three towns around which vineyards flourish on volcanic soils, while the name of the town itself is derived from the word "videira," meaning wine, illustrating how long vines have been growing in this part of the Alentejo.

Alfrocheiro, Antão Vaz, Manteudo, Moreto, Periquita, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, Trincadeira

Front 54

Discuss the Vinho Verde DOC.
(Portugal)

Back 54

(p328)
Vinho Verde DOC:

The vines literally grow on trees, up telephone poles, and along fences - on anything that takes them above the ground. Training the vine in such a way enables the smallholders - and there are more than 60,000 of them in the Minho - to grow the cabbages, corn, and beans that the families survive on, and to produce grapes, which are either sold to large wineries or made into wine locally and sold to tourists. Genuine Vinho Verde is sharp, may be slightly fizzy, but should always be totally dry, either delicately or raspingly dry, depending primarily on the grape varieties used. The best two grape varieties are Alvarinho and Loureiro. The Alvarinho is a low-cropping variety that is more at home in the northern part of the Minho, between the Lima Valley and the Spanish border. It produces the most substantial Vinhos Verdes, with alcohol levels of 12.5% ABV, compared to the norm of 9.5-10%. Palácio da Brejoeira is the yardstick for this grape, and widely considered to be a class apart from any other Vinho Verde. The Loureiro is a heavier-cropping variety, producing aromatic wines. Vinhão is the most successful grape for red Vinho Verde, followed by Azal Tinto and Espadeiro, and the best examples of these deep-purple wines have a peppery smack to them, even if it is quickly washed down the throat in a fizzy rush.

Alvarinho, Arinto (syn. Paderna), Avesso, Azal, Azal Tinto, Brancelho (syn. Alvarelho), Borracal, Espadeiro, Loureiro, Perdal, Trajadura, Vinhão (possibly the same as Sousão)

Drink upon purchase (9-18 months maximum)

Red single-quintas:
Casa do Valle * Ponte de Lima

White single-quintas:
Casa de Sezim * Morgadio de Torre * Palácio da Brejoeira * Ponte de Lima * Quinta de Azevedo * Quinta de Franqueira * Quinta da Tamariz * Solar de Bouças

White commercial blends:
Cepa Velha (Alvarinho) * Chello * Gazela * Grinalda

Front 55

What are the Vinho Regionals (VRs) of Portugal?

Back 55

(p328)
Vinho Regionals (VRs) of Portugal:

Rios de Minho VR
Trás-os-Montes VR
Beiras VR
Estremadura VR
Ribatejo VR
Terras do Sado VR
Alentejo VR
Algarve VR

Front 56

What are the IPRs of Alentejo VR?

Back 56

(p328)
Alentejo VR:

Moura IPR (No. 29)
Granja Amareleja IPR (No. 24)
Evora IPR (No. 22)

Front 57

What are the DOCs of Alentejo VR?

Back 57

(p328)
Alentejo VR:

Vidigueira DOC (No. 46)
Reguengos DOC (No. 38)
Redondo DOC (No. 37)
Borba DOC (No. 8)
Portalegre DOC (No. 35)

Front 58

What are the DOCs of Algarve VR?

Back 58

(p328)
Algarve VR:

Lagos DOC (No. 27)
Portimão DOC (No. 36)
Lagoa DOC (No. 26)
Tavira DOC (No. 41)

Front 59

What are the DOCs of Beiras VR?

Back 59

(p328)
Beiras VR:

Dão DOC (No. 18)
Bairrada DOC (No. 6)

Front 60

What are the IPRs of Beiras VR?

Back 60

(p328)
Beiras VR:

Castelo Rodrigo IPR (No. 12)
Cova de Beira IPR (No. 17)
Lafões IPR (No. 25)
(Lamego IPR (?))
(Pinhel IPR (No. 33))
(Varosa IPR (No. 45))
(Encostas da Nave IPR (No. 21))
(Encostas d'Aire IPR (No. 20, with Estremadura VR))

Front 61

What are the DOCs of Estremadura VR?

Back 61

(p328)
Estremadura VR:

Bucelas DOC (No. 9)
Carcavelos DOC (No. 10)
Colares DOC (No. 15)

Front 62

What are the IPRs of Estremadura VR?

Back 62

(p328)
Estremadura VR:

Alcobaça IPR (No. 1)
Alenquer IPR (No. 2)
(Arruda IPR (No. 5))
(Cartaxo IPR (No. 11, with Ribatejo VR))
(Encostas d'Aire IPR (No. 20, with Beiras VR))
(Obidos IPR (No. 30))
(Torres Vedras IPR (No. 43))

Front 63

What are the IPRs of Ribatejo VR?

Back 63

(p328)
Ribatejo VR:

Almeirim IPR (No. 3)
Cartaxo IPR (No. 11, with Estremadura VR)
Chamusca IPR (No. 13)
Coruche IPR (No. 16)
(Santarém IPR (No. 39))
(Tomar IPR (No. 42))
(Valada do Ribatejo IPR (?))

Front 64

What are the IPRs of Terras do Sado VR?

Back 64

(p328)
Terras do Sado VR:

Arrabida IPR (No. 4)
Palmela IPR (No. 31)

Front 65

What are the DOCs of Terras do Sado VR?

Back 65

(p328)
Terras do Sado VR:

Setúbal DOC (No. 40)

Front 66

What are the IPRs of Trás-os-Montes VR?

Back 66

(p328)
Trás-os-Montes VR:

Chaves IPR (No. 14)
Valpaços IPR (No. 44)
Planalto-Mirandês IPR (No. 34)

Front 67

What are the DOCs of Trás-os-Montes VR?

Back 67

(p328)
Trás-os-Montes VR:

Douro DOC (No. 19)

Front 68

What are the IPRs of the Azoras?

Back 68

(p328)
The Azoras:

Graciosa IPR (No. 23, island of Graciosa)
Biscoitos IPR (No. 7, island of Terceira)
Pico IPR (No. 32, island of Pico)