Wine - Spain - Dos

Front 1

Discuss the Abona DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 1

(p304)
Abona DO, Canary Islands:

This new appellation was established in 1996 for white wines made in the south of Tenerife, where the vines are grown on terraces that are also planted with potatoes. Before they gained DO status, these wines were sold under the names of Granadilla, San Miguel, and Vilaflor.

Listán, Malvasia

Viña Peraza

Front 2

Discuss the Alella DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 2

(p303)
Alella DO, Catalonia:

This is a tiny, predominantly white appellation just north of Barcelona, where grapes are traditionally grown on windy granite hills, but due to urban development the DO was extended in 1989 into the colder, limestone vallès of the Cordillera Catalana. The red wines of Alella have good color, medium body, and a soft, fruity flavor. White and rosado are pale-colored, fresh, and delicate, with good acidity when made with grapes from the best north-facing slopes.

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Garnacha Peluda, Pansá Rosado, Tempranillo, Xarel-lo

1-5 years (red), 1-2 years (white and rosado), 1-4 years (sweet)

Alta Alella Chardonnay * Alellasol * Marfil * Marqués de Alella

Front 3

Discuss the Alicante DO.
(Valencia)

Back 3

Alicante DO, Valencia:

These mild-climate red, white, and rosado wines are grown on dark, limey soil in the hills behind Alicante. The red wines are naturally deep in color and, when made in a "doble pasta" style, they can be ink-black and astringent, but younger, fruitier styles are emerging, as indeed they are among rosados and whites. Fortified Moscatels from this region are light and refreshing. A fortified wine of local repute called Fondillón is made from Monastrell grapes in a tawny port style.

Airén, Bobal, Garnacha, Garnacha Tinta, Meseguera, Moscatel Romano, Monastrell, Planta Fina, Tempranillo, Viura

6-12 years (reds)

Enrique Mendoza * Hijo de Luís García Poveda (Costa Blanca)

Front 4

Discuss the Almansa DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 4

Almansa DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

This red and rosado appellation, which lies north of Jumilla and Yecla, bridges the heights of the central plains of La Mancha and the lowlands of Valencia. The red wines produced here are full-bodied and richly colored, with the best examples being quite smooth and fruity. Good examples of rosado can be fruity and clean.

Airén, Garnacha, Meseguera, Monastrell, Tempranillo

3-10 years (red), 1-3 years (rosado)

Alfonso Abellan * Carrion * Piqueras

Front 5

Discuss the Ampurdan-Costa Brava DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 5

Ampurdan-Costa Brava DO, Catalonia:

Lying at the foot of the narrowest section of the Pyrenees, this is the closest Spanish wine appellation to France. Most of the production is rosado and aimed at tourists, but the reds are much better, having a fairly deep, cherry-red color, medium to full body, and a crisp, off-dry or slightly sweet, with a pale, often greenish-tinged color, and are sometimes pétillant (lightly sparkling).

Cariñena, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Viura

2-5 years (red), 9-18 months (white and rosado)

Cavas de Ampurdán * Convinosa * Oliveda

Front 6

Discuss the Bierzo DO.
(Castilla-León)

Back 6

(p303)
Bierzo DO, Castilla-León:

One of the more exciting of Spain's less traditional DOs, Bierzo includes red, white, and rosado wines. Young reds stand out, being made from a minimum of 70% Mencía, an underrated variety capable of attractively aromatic wines.

Doña Blanca, Garnacha, Godello, Malvasia, Mencía, Palomino

1-4 years (red), 9-18 months (white and rosado)

Bodegas C. A. del Bierzo * Bodegas Palacio de Arganza (non-DO wines) * Pérez Caramés * Casa Valdaiga

Front 7

Discuss the Binissalem DO.
(Balearic Islands)

Back 7

Binissalem DO, Balearic Islands:

This appellation owes its existence primarily to just one man, José Ferrer, but there are at least two other producers of Majorca's best-known wine who are worth searching out. The white and rosado are simple, but the reds are slightly more serious and show some potential.

A minimum of 50% Manto Negro (for reds) or 70% Moll for whites, plus Callet, Monastrell, Parellada, Tempranillo, and Viura

Drink upon purchase

José L Ferrer * Jaume Mesquida * Miguel Oliver

Front 8

Discuss the Bullas DO.
(Murcia)

Back 8

(p303)
Bullas DO, Murcia:

This is a large region just south of Jumilla where the soil is so poor that, aside from vines, only olives and almonds can survive. The young red wines here are made primarily from Monastrell grapes and seem to have the best potential, but white and rosado wines are also allowed. Bullas is, however, a new appellation that has yet to prove its quality.

Airén, Garnacha, Monastrell, Tempranillo

Front 9

Discuss the Calatayud DO.
(Aragón)

Back 9

Calatayud DO, Aragón:

A patchwork of vineyards, mostly planted with Garnacha vines, tussle with fruit trees for meager sustenance from the poor, buff-colored rocky soil. Increasing the amount of Tempranillo vines and temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats will eventually improve the potential here, but the best wines are still simple, fresh, fruity rosados.

Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Juan Ibáñez, Malvasia, Mazuelo, Miguel de Arco, Moscatel Romano, Monastrell, Tempranillo, Viura

Drink upon purchase

Jalón * Langa

Front 10

Discuss the Campo de Borja DO.
(Aragón)

Back 10

(p303)
Campo de Borja DO, Aragón:

This name derives from the notorious Borgia family, who used to run things here at the height of their power in the late 15th century. The whites are fresh, but somewhat neutral. The reds and rosados are full, robust, and can be alcoholic, but they are improving. Their character is sometimes compared with that Navarra once had, and Campo de Borja is now experimenting with Cabernet Sauvignon in the same way as Navarra once did. This is a wine area to watch.

Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Viura

3-8 years (red), 9-15 months (white and rosado)

Bordeje * Agrícola de Borja (Borsao) * C. A. del Campo Union * Agraria del Santo Cristo * C. A. del Campo San Juan Bautista

Front 11

Discuss the Cariñena DO.
(Aragón)

Back 11

Cariñena DO, Aragón:

Cariñena's low rainfall accounted for the traditionally high alcohol content of these wines, but modern vinification now makes a fresher, lighter, fruitier, more aromatic style. Reds are the best of this appellation, especially from parcels of old Garnacha. Some deliberately maderized rancio wines are still produced.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cariñena, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Juan Ibáñez, Moscatel Romano, Monastrell, Parellada, Tempranillo, Viura

1-5 years (red), 9-18 months (white and rosado)

Añadas * Covinca * Gran Ducay

Front 12

Discuss the Catalunya DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 12

(p303)
Catalunya DO, Catalonia:

With all styles of red, white, rosado, and fortified wine allowed, this basic, regional appellation offers innovative winemakers more flexibility than the supposedly superior, smaller, more specific DOs.

Bobal, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cariñena, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Garnatxa Blanca, Garnatxa Negra, Garnatxa Tintorera, Gewürtraminer, Macabeu, Malvasia, Malvasia de Sitges, Mazuela, Merlot, Monastrell, Muscat d'Alexandrie, Parellada, Pedro Ximénez, Peluda, Picapoll, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Ull de Llebre, Xarel-lo

Mas Gil (Clos d'Agon)

Front 13

Discuss the Chacolí or Txakolina DO.
(Cantabria)

Back 13

(p303)
Chacolí or Txakolina DO, Cantabria:

This appellation is split into three areas: Chacolí de Alava (or Getariako Alava), Chacolí de Guetaria (or Getariako Txakolina), and Chacolí de Vizcaya (or Bizkaiko Txakolina). The alternative names are Basque and, as this is Basque country, these spellings will probably take precedence. The wines are mostly white, dry, and slightly pétillant, although a little red is also produced. As is typical of wines in the northeastern corner of the Iberian peninsula, they are high in acidity and low in alcohol.

Hondarribi Beltza, Hondarribi Zuri

Aretxondo * Txomin Etxaniz

Front 14

Discuss the Cigales DO.
(Castilla-León)

Back 14

Cigales DO, Castilla-León:

This appellation is best known for fresh, fruity, lighter reds and rosados.

Albillo, Garnacha, Palomino, Tempranillo, Verdejo, Viura

C. A. de Cigales (Escogido del Año, Viña Torondos) * Emeterio Fernández (La Legua Capricho) * Frutos Villa (Conde Ansurez, Viña Calderona) * Conzález Lara (Fuente del Conde Rosado)

Front 15

Discuss the Conca de Barbera DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 15

(p303)
Conca de Barbera DO, Catalonia:

This once little-known appellation for red, white, and rosado wines from the hilly hinterland of Penedés promises to be one of Spain's most exciting areas. Chardonnay is outstanding here, as the rich, potentially complex Torres Milmanda demonstrates. Merlot is the most up-and-coming variety in the red department, but Trepat could mount a few surprises for fresh, easy-drinking styles of both red and rosado.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot, Parellada, Tempranillo, Trepat, Viura

1-5 years

Torres (Milmanda Chardonnay)

Front 16

Discuss the Condado de Huelva DO.
(Andalucia)

Back 16

Condado de Huelva DO, Andalucia:

The sweet dessert wines of this area, which is sandwiched between the sherry district of southwest Spain and the Algarve of Portugal, were mentioned by Chaucer in "The Canterbury Tales." They ended up, however, as blending fodder for sherry. There are two basic types of fortified wine here: pálido (young, pale-straw color, dry, austere wines, of 14-17% alcohol) and viejo (solera-matured, mahogany-hued, in both dry and sweet styles that are deliberately oxidized, of 15-23% alcohol).

Garrido Fino, Palomino, Zalema

Drink upon purchase

Front 17

Discuss the Costers del Segre DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 17

Costers del Segre DO, Catalonia:

This is a top-performing appellation taking in four areas of different viticultural character in the province of Lérida: Les Garrigues and Valls de Riu Corb (primarily white-grape districts); Artesa (planted almost entirely with black grapes); and Raimat (dominated by foreign grape varieties and has quickly assumed classic status through Codorníu's innovative Raimat Estate).

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cariñena, Chardonnay, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Merlot, Monastrell, Parellada, Trepat, Ull de Llebre, Viura, Xarel-lo

2-6 years (red), 1-4 years (white)

Raïmat * Castell del Remei

Front 18

Discuss the Dehesa del Carrizal DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 18

Dehesa del Carrizal DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

In 2006 this became Spain's third "Pago," or single-estate, appellation. Legend has it that Marcial Gómez Sequeira planted this semidesert area with Cabernet Sauvignon some 20 years ago on a bet, but it was so successful that he enlarged the vineyard to 54 acres (22 ha) with Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, and Tempranillo.

Front 19

Discuss the Dominio de Valdepusa DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 19

Dominio de Valdepusa DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

Owned by Carlos Falcó of Marqués de Griñón fame, Dominio de Valdepusa became Spain's first "Pago" appellation in 2001. It was Spain's first vineyard to use a new trellis system and drip-irrigation, both in 1973. More recently, Dominio de Valdepusa became the first vineyard in Europe to adopt the Australian PRD technique, and one of the first in the world to deploy dendrometers. Over the years, Falcó has employed a veritable gaggle of gurus (Lichine, Peynaud), with Rolland and Smart his current advisors. According to Smart, the red clay over limestone at Dominio de Valdepusa is identical to the famous terra rossa soil of Coonawarra.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah

Marqués de Griñón (Dominio de Valdepusa)

Front 20

Discuss the El Hierro DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 20

(p304)
El Hierro DO, Canary Islands:

El Hierro is the smallest and most westerly island in the archipelago, yet the local cooperative is one of the most advanced in the Canary Islands. Before gaining DO status, these wines were sold under the local names of Frontera and Valverde. The Negramoll grape is best for reds and rosados, while the Verijadiego is best for whites.

Listán, Malvasia, Moscatel, Negramoll, Pedro Ximénez, Verdello, Verijadiego

Fontera

Front 21

Discuss the Finca Elez DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 21

Finca Elez DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

Located near the village of El Bonillo, in the heart of the Sierra de Alcaraz, this single-estate appellation was established in 2002 and is owned by Manuel Manzaneque, a theater director and producer.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo

Finca Elez

Front 22

Discuss the Jumilla DO.
(Murcia)

Back 22

Jumilla DO, Murcia:

The high, hilly vineyards of Jumilla have never been affected by phylloxera, and most of the vines are still ungrafted. Almost all the wines produced here are red, and until recently were lackluster, unless made in a doble pasta style, which produces wines so thick and intense that they are in great demand for blending purposes throughout Spain and also abroad. The best reds carry the Jumilla Monastrell varietal appellation and can be very smooth, fruity, and aromatic, tending to improve with age. With earlier picking and temperature-controlled fermentation, lighter, more accessible wines are now being made that are best drunk when young and juicy, including some soft, fruity whites as well as some rosados.

Airén, Garnacha, Meseguera, Monastrell, Pedro Ximénez, Tempranillo

1-3 years (red, but up to 6 years for wines made in doble pasta style), 9-15 months (white and rosado)

Bleda (Castillo Jumilla) * Julia Roch e Hijos * Jumilla Union Vitivinícola (Cerrillares, Incunable) * Señorío del Condestable

Front 23

Discuss the La Mancha DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 23

(p303)
La Mancha DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

Although its output remains enormous, accounting for some 40% of all Spanish wines produced, the wine land of Don Quixote has improved tremendously since the 1980s. Many producers now harvest much earlier than previously and ferment at cooler temperatures (sometimes too cool), achieving fresher, lighter, more aromatic wines. The best wines of La Mancha used to be made in Valdepeñas DO, and that appellation still boasts most of the best, but the arrival of Alejandro Fernández (El Vinculo) in 1999 has raised the stakes. Who would have thought that any wine bearing "La Mancha" could be considered up-and-coming?

Airén, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot, Moravia, Pardina, Tempranillo, Viura

1-4 years (red), 9-15 months (white and rosado)

Ayuso (Estola Gran Reserva) * Vinícola de Castilla (Castillo de Alhambra, Señorío de Guadianeja) * Jesús Diaz e Hijos * El Vinculo * C. Españolas (Fuente del Ritmo) * Hermanos Morales (Gran Créacion) * C. A. del Campo Nuestra Señora de Manjavacas (Zagarrón) * C. A. del Campo Nuestra Padre Jesús de Perdon (Casa la Teja, Lazarillo, Yuntero) * Rama Corta * Rodriguez y Berger (Viña Santa Elena) * Julían Santos * Torres Filoso (Arboles de Castollejo)

Front 24

Discuss the La Palma DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 24

(p304)
La Palma DO, Canary Islands:

This new appellation was established in 1995 for the island of La Palma. It was in Fuencaliente, in the south of the island, that the famed "Canary Sack" of Shakespeare's time was produced, and the grape responsible, Malvasia, still grows here, amid four smoking volcanoes, in the same sort of craterlike depressions that abound on Lanzarote. An oddity aged in pine casks and curiously called Vino del Tea ("Tea" being the local name for a particular species of pine) is available in the north of the island, but only the most ardent admirers of Retsina should search it out.

Bujariego, Gual, Listán, Malvasia, Negramoll

Hoyo de Mazo

Front 25

Discuss the Lanzarote DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 25

(p304)
Lanzarote DO, Canary Islands:

This new appellation was established in 1995 for the island of Lanzarote, where the lunar landscape is dotted with vines in craterlike depressions, protected by low stone walls. The most spectacular example of this weirdly beautiful form of viticulture can be viewed at La Geria, an area west of Arrecife where no fewer than 5,000 acres (2,000 hectares) of such vineyards are to be found.

Caleta, Diego, Listán, Malvasia

Front 26

Discuss the Málaga DO.
(Andalucia)

Back 26

Málaga DO, Andalucia:

Just northeast of Jerez in southern Spain, the coastal vineyards of Málaga produce one of the most underrated classic dessert wines in the world. Most of this is matured by the solera system, involving some six scales and may be blended in a sherrylike manner using various grape-based coloring and sweetening agents, such as arrope, vino de color, vino tierno, and vino maestro. The color of these fortified wines can range from gold through tawny to brown and red, depending on the style of Málaga, its age, and method of maturation, its degree of sweetness, and the grape variety used.

Málaga may be any one of the following. Dulce Color is a dark, medium-bodied Málaga that has been sweetened with arrope. Lágrima is made from free-run juice only, and is the most luscious of all Málaga styles. Moscatel is a sweet, rich, raisiny, medium- to full-bodied wine that is similar to the Jerez version, only more luscious. Old Solera has the most finesse, depth, and length of all Málagas and is capable of complexity rather than lusciousness. It is medium- to full-bodied, still sweet yet with a dry finish. Oscuro is a dark, sweet Málaga that has been sweetened with arrope and colored by vino de color. Pajarette or Paxarete is darkish in color, and less sweet, but more alcoholic, than other Málagas. Pedro Ximénez is a smooth, sweet, deliciously rich varietal wine with an intense flavor that is similar in character to the Jerez version. Seco is a pale, dry, tangy wine with a distinctive creamy hazelnut character.

Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez

Drink upon purchase (although it can last, but not improve, for several years)

Scholtz Hermanos * Pérez Texeira * Larios

Front 27

Discuss the Manchuela DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 27

Manchuela DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

This is a very large region, encompassing La Mancha, Ribera del Júcar, Utiel-Requena, and Almansa, with cooperatives accounting for two-thirds of the bodegas, and a quality that is seldom better than an acceptable quaff. Much is a lot worse. The delicious red wines of Finca Sandova are, however, a class apart, and the improving Gualberto may one day reach a similar level.

Albillo, Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cencibel, Chardonnay, Garnacha, Macabéo, Merlot, Monastrell, Moravia Dulce, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Verdejo

Finca Sandoval * Gualberto

Front 28

Discuss the Méntrida DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 28

Méntrida DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

Cheap wine, still mostly consumed locally, but yields have dropped, and a number of bodegas have improved their facilities, although it is too early to confirm a similar improvement in quality, as there are still too many deep-colored, coarse reds and alcoholic rosados.

Garnacha, Tempranillo

Front 29

Discuss the Mondéjar DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 29

(p303)
Mondéjar DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

Although fewer bulk wines are being produced here since Mondéjar achieved DO status, the wines are still mostly uninspiring, with Mariscal the solitary producer that seems interested in improving quality.

Airén, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Jaén, Macabéo, Malvar, Tempranillo, Torrontés

Mariscal

Front 30

Discuss the Monstant DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 30

Monstant DO, Catalonia:

A new and potentially exciting appellation clasping the eastern, western, and southern edges of Priorat.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Carineña, Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, Syrah, Tempranillo

Celler de Capéanes (Mas Picosa) * Fra Guerau * Laurona

Front 31

Discuss the Monterrei DO.
(Galicia)

Back 31

(p303)
Monterrei DO, Galicia:

This area was first awarded a provisional DO in the early 1980s, but this was revoked when too few of its growers showed any interest in modernizing their estates. However, some progress was made in the late 1980s, and this appellation has now been granted full DO status.

Alicante, Doña Blanca, Godello, Gran Negro, Mencía, Mouratón, Palomino

Pazo Pondal (Lenda Pondal)

Front 32

Discuss the Montilla-Moriles DO.
(Andalucia)

Back 32

(p303)
Montilla-Moriles DO, Andalucia:

The sherrylike wines of Montilla fall into three categories: generosos (fortified finos, amontillados, olorosos, and magnificent PX); unfortified traditional wines (cream, medium, and dry at 14.5% alcohol); and jóvenes afrutados (ghastly).

Airén, Baladí, Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez, Torrontés

Can be kept, but consume upon opening

Marqués de la Sierra * Alvear * Mora Chacon * Gracia Hermanos * Perez Barquero * Rodriguez Chiachio

Front 33

Discuss the Pla de Bages DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 33

(p303)
Pla de Bages DO, Catalonia:

Winemaking is an old tradition in Bages, and yet this is an up-and-coming DO, with many newly planted vineyards and a small but growing band of modern bodegas, of which Massies d'Avinyó clearly leads the way. "Bages" is a derivative of Bacchus, the name of the Roman god of wine.

Chardonnay, Garnatxa, Macabéo, Malbec, Merlot, Picapoll, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Sumoll, Tempranillo

Massies d'Avinyó

Front 34

Discuss the Pla I Levant DO.
(Mallorca)

Back 34

Pla I Levant DO, Mallorca:

The island's newest appellation produces some of its best wines.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Callet, Chardonnay, Frogoneu, Manto Negro, Macabéo, Merlot, Moscatel, Parellada, Pinot Noir, Prensal Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo

Miquel Geabert * Miquel Oliver

Front 35

Discuss the Priorat DOCa.
(Catalonia)

Back 35

Priorat DOCa, Catalonia:

This area has a dry climate and poor soil, in which the vines' roots spread everywhere in search of moisture, the local saying being that Priorat vines can suck water out of stone. The best wines are currently being made around the hilltop town of Gratallops, by a group of young winemakers led by Bordeaux-trained Riojan oenologist Alvaro Palacios, who brought with him a wealth of experience from Château Pétrus to the Napa Valley. New-style reds are huge, serious, and stunningly rich, but those of the old style tend to be heavy, overalcoholic, and oxidized, although the best traditional wines fall somewhere in between. One of the country's oldest appellations, Priorat is one of the Spanish wine industry's superstars. The use of the spelling "Priorato" has been dropped on bottles in favor of the Catalan version "Priorat," and DOQ, the Catalan equivalent of DOCa, is now prevalent.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cariñena, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Merlot, Monastrell, Pedro Ximénez, Syrah, Viura

5-15 years (red)

Alvaro Palacios (Finca Dofi, Clos l'Ermita, Las Terrasses) * René Barbier (Clos Mogador) * Clos Erasmus * Costers del Siurana (Clos de l'Obac, Miserere) * Masia Barril * De Muller * Scala Dei (Cartoixa, El Cipres, Novell) * Vinicola del Priorato (Mas d'Alba, Onix)

Front 36

Discuss the Rias Baixas DO.
(Galicia)

Back 36

Rias Baixas DO, Galicia:

Spain's fastest-rising star in the DO firmament, the Rias Baixas appellation covers various red, white, and rosado wines, but the best-known and most enjoyable wines are the softly perfumed, zippy whites made from low-yielding Albariño grapes, which can have real depth and fruit, and a fresh, lively acidity. Although I have always admired the best of these wines, I did wonder whether they are worth what appeared to be an increasingly high price. At the table, however, they accompany fine food beautifully, which in my book makes even the most expensive Rias Baixas well worth the price demanded for it.

Albariño, Brancellao, Caiño Blanco, Caiño Tinto, Espadeiro, Loureira Blanca, Loureira Tinta, Mencía, Sousón, Torrontés, Treixadura

1-3 years

Albariño do Salnes * Pazo de Barrantes * Cardallal * Lagar de Cevera * del Palacio de Fefiñanes * Granxa Fillaboa * Morgadio-Agromiño * Pazo Pondal* de Vilariño Cambados (Martin Códax, Organistrum) * Santiago Ruíz

Front 37

Discuss the Ribeira Sacra DO.
(Galicia)

Back 37

(p303)
Ribeira Sacra DO, Galicia:

The most widely planted grape variety here is Palomino, but on the steep, terraced vineyards of Ribeira Sacra, Albariño is far more exciting, and the Mencía variety also shows promise for red wines.

Albariño, Brancellao, Caiño, Doña Blanca, Espadeiro, Ferrón, Godello, Garnacha, Loureira, Loureira Tinta, Mencía, Merenzao, Negrada, Palomino, Sousón, Torrontés

1-3 years

Adegas Moure (Albariño Abadia da Cova)

Front 38

Discuss the Ribeiro DO.
(Galicia)

Back 38

Ribeiro DO, Galicia:

Due to the Atlantic-influenced climate of northwest Spain, the styles of Ribeiro's red and white wines reflect that of Portugal's Vinhos Verdes, except that they are somewhat more fruity and aromatic. The very best examples possess a wonderfully fresh, pure, vibrancy of fruit.

Albariño, Albillo, Brancellao, Caiño, Ferrón, Garnacha, Godello, Jerez, Loureira, Mencía, Sousón, Tempranillo, Torrontés, Treixadura, Viura

9-18 months

Alanis * Arsenio Paz * Rivera * C. A. del Ribeiro

Front 39

Discuss the Ribera del Duero DO.
(Castilla-León)

Back 39

(p303)
Ribera del Duero DO, Castilla-León:

From the upper reaches of the Duero River (which becomes the Douro, once it crosses the Portugese border), the rosados are fresh, dry, fruity wines of a clarete or claro style, but are nowhere near the class of the best reds, which have a truly dense, black color and are packed solid with rich, oaky-sweet, plummy-blackcurranty fruit flavors.

Ribera del Duero DO built its reputation on "Vega Sicilia," formerly Spain's most expensive wine. In the first edition of this book, I categorically stated that contrary to the informed opinion of many other wine critics, this was not Spain's greatest red wine, although it was potentially the best. The problem was that 10 or more years in wood took its toll on the fruit in a way that would destroy many of the greatest wines of Bordeaux.

There was also no logic to the duration and mode of aging at Vega Sicilia, which occurred in different sizes and ages of wooden casks, the various vintages being transferred from one vessel to another simply to fulfill the logistical necessity of moving the wines around in order to accomodate the incoming harvest. Since the first edition, however, Vega Sicilia has given its wines no more than six years in wood and now has a more disciplined approach to how long wines spend in various types and ages of casks, including new oak barriques. It is once again one of Spain's greatest wines, but not necessarily the greatest Ribera del Duero, with a handful of bodegas capable of matching, sometimes surpassing, the quality of Vega Sicilia. These include Aalto, Vega Sicilia's own Alion, Alejándro Fernández's Pesquera, Condado de Haza (also owned by Fernández), Domino de Pingus, and Pago de los Capellanes, with a few others waiting in the wings.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Malbec, Merlot, Pardina, Tinto del País

3-8 years (modern red), 5-25 years (traditional red), 1-2 years (rosado)

Aalto * Abadía Retuerta * Alión * Arzuaga Condado de Haza * Dominio de Pingus * Emelio Moro * Ismael Arroyo * Julio Cesar Conde Delgado y Otros (Neo) * O Fournier (Alfa Spiga) * Legaris * Mauro * Pago de Carraovejas * Pago de los Capellanes * Pagos del Rey * Pérez Pascuas (Viña Pedrosa) * Pesquera * Pomar Vinédos * Real Sitio de Ventosilla (Prado Rey) * Reyes * Sastre * Uvaguilera Aguilera * Vega Sicilia (including Valbuena)

Front 40

Discuss the Ribera del Guadiana DO.
(Extramadura)

Back 40

Ribera del Guadiana DO, Extramadura:

A group of six vinos de la tierra (Cañamero, Matanegra, Montanchez, Ribera Alta, Ribera Baja, and Tierra de Barros), which retain this classification, but also form subzones of the Ribera del Guadiana DO, entitling them to make wines under two different origins of quality.

La de Barros * Santa Mariña

Front 41

Discuss the Ribera del Júcar DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 41

Ribera del Júcar DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

This new red-wine DO since the 2003 vintage encompasses some of La Mancha's best vineyards. Although the grapes authorized include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, most wines released so far are cheap Tempranillo or Tempranillo-based blends.

Front 42

Discuss the Rueda DO.
(Castilla-León)

Back 42

Rueda DO, Castilla-León:

This small district downriver from Ribeiro del Duero is known for fresh, crisp, dry white wines made almost entirely from Verdejo, but traditionally the wines were fortified in fino (Palido Rueda) and rancio (Dorado Rueda) styles, and these can still be found. A traditional method Rueda Espumoso is also allowed.

Palomino, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo, Viura

1-2 years

Agricola Castellana * Frutos Villa (Viña Morejona) * Marqués de Griñón * Marqués de Riscal

Front 43

Discuss the Sierras de Málaga DO.
(Andalucia)

Back 43

Sierras de Málaga DO, Andalucia:

Although Málaga is one of Spain's oldest DOs, this appellation was granted in 2001, for an area that is higher in altitude than Málaga, and for red and white wines that cannot be fortified.

Airén, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Colombard, Doradilla, Garnacha, Macabéo, Merlot, Moscatel d'Alejandrie, Moscatel Morisco, Pedro Ximénez, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Romé, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo

F. Schatz

Front 44

Discuss Sitges.
(Catalonia)

Back 44

Sitges, Catalonia:

This is a famous, but rare, non-DO fortified Malvasia and Moscatel wine that is made just south of the outskirts of Barcelona, from grapes that are allowed to shrivel on the vine.

Cellers Robert

Front 45

Discuss the Somontano DO.
(Aragón)

Back 45

(p303)
Somontano DO, Aragón:

Set at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains, between the regions of Penedés and Navarra, Somontano is destined to become one of Spain's greatest wine regions. Chardonnay is by far the best grape grown here for serious, barrel-fermented white wines, but both Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon show superb potential for making fragrant reds with a lively richness of fruit.

Alcañón, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Moristel, Parreleta, Tempranillo, Viura

2-5 years (red), 1-3 years (white)

Aragonesa * Otto Bestué * Viñas del Vero * Enate * Lalanne * Pirineos

Front 46

Discuss the Tacoronte-Acentejo DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 46

(p304)
Tacoronte-Acentejo DO, Canary Islands:

Established in 1992, this is the oldest Canary Island appellation and, so far, it has proved to be the best, although it is too early to tell how the others will fare.

Castellano, Gual, Listán, Listán Negro, Malvasia, Marmajuelo, Moscatel, Negra Común, Negramoll, Pedro Ximénez, Tintillo, Torrontés, Verdello

El Lomo * Monje * Viña Norte

Front 47

Discuss the Tarragona DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 47

Tarragona DO, Catalonia:

This is the largest appellation in Catalonia, but its potential quality is modest compared with that of neighboring Penedés. Having said that, Australian winemakers Nick Butler and Mark Nairn have been quietly raising standards at Pedro Rovira, using hands-off methods to retain as much natural character in the wine as possible. The best red, white, and rosado from this region can all be fresh, fruity, and rewarding. Even the local fortified wine, which is sold as Tarragona Classico, can be worth looking out for.

Cariñena, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Parellada, Tempranillo, Viura, Xarel-lo

1-5 years (red), 1-2 years (white and rosado)

C. A. de Valls * José Lopez Beltrán (Don Beltrán) * Pedro Masana (non-DO wines) * De Müller (Moscatel Seco, Parxete) * Pedro Rovira

Front 48

Discuss the Terra Alta DO.
(Catalonia)

Back 48

Terra Alta DO, Catalonia:

This slowly improving appellation lies in the highlands well away from the coast. It produces some good, everyday-drinking red and white wines, but the best sites are not always planted with the most suitable varieties and have to compete with Cava growers. It is advisable to avoid the local sweet, fortified mistela.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cariñena, Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca, Merlot, Moscatel, Parellada, Tempranillo, Viura

1-2 years

C. A. Gandsea * C. A. la Hermandad * Pedro Rovira (Alta Mar, Viña d'Irto) * Vinalba dels Arcs (Vall de Berrús)

Front 49

Discuss the Toro DO.
(Castilla-León)

Back 49

Toro DO, Castilla-León:

The exciting quality of Toro wines today is a very recent phenomenon, built on a sudden influx of high-profile names, which has tripled the number of bodegas since 2000. When this DO was established in 1987, there were just four bodegas, the decrepit local cooperative dominated production, and the quality was really quite dire. By 2000, the number of bodegas had increased to 18, but, more importantly, the Álvarez family of Vega Sicilia fame had been purchasing land under an assumed name since 1997, and after this was announced in 2002, the floodgates opened, so that at the last count there were 40 bodegas. Consequently, land prices have soared, and the battle for Toro's true quality has only just begun. Vega Sicilia's rival, Alejándro Fernández of Pesquera, followed suit in 1998, but his great wine Dehesa La Granja is made from vines growing just outside this DO, near Zamora. I suspect this may be a single-estate DO in waiting.

Garnacha, Malvasia, Tinta de Toro, Verdejo Blanco

2-8 years (red), 1-3 years (white)

Alquiriz * Bajoz * Jacques & François Lurton (El Albar Excelencia, Campo Eliseo) * Numanthia * Fariña (Gran Colegiata, Gran Colegiata Campus) * Maurodós

Front 50

Discuss the Uclés DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 50

Uclés DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

The first vintage allowed for this new red-wine DO was 2005. This DO encompasses some of La Mancha's best high-altitude vineyards, located on either side of the Altomira mountains. Authorized grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot, Syrah, and Tempranillo, with a sliding scale of maximum yield ranging from 8,000 kg/ha for 6-year-old vines, down to 5,000 kg/ha for vines that are 40 years or older.

Front 51

Discuss the Utiel-Requena DO.
(Valencia)

Back 51

Utiel-Requena DO, Valencia:

This large and important, essentially red-wine district is situated in the extreme west of the province of Valencia. Although distilling wine and the doble pasta process were once the area's forte, softer, more palatable reds are now being made, and the best dry rosados are fresh and delicate for such sunny climes.

Bobal, Garnacha, Meseguera, Tardana, Tempranillo, Viura

2-5 years (red), 9-18 months (rosados)

Augusto Egli (Casa Lo Alto)

Front 52

Discuss the Valdeorras DO.
(Galicia)

Back 52

Valdeorras DO, Galicia:

Until Rias Baixas came on the scene, this was Galicia's most promising district. With vines planted on terraced, slaty hillsides flanking the Sil River and Valdeorras's northern, wet, Atlantic-influenced climate, these wines have never been overburdened with alcohol, as so much Spanish wine was once upon a time, and refreshing acidity is part of their charm. The best wineries have now been modernized and are even better than they used to be, particularly for white wines made from the Godello grape.

Doña Blanca, Garnacha, Godello, Gran Negro, Lado, María Ardoña, Mencía, Merenzao, Palomino

1-4 years (red), 1 year (white and rosado)

Godeval * Guitián * Jesus Nazareno * Joaquin Rebolledo

Front 53

Discuss the Valdepeñas DO.
(Castilla-La Mancha)

Back 53

(p303)
Valdepeñas DO, Castilla-La Mancha:

This was once Castilla-La Mancha's solitary fine-wine area. Despite the torrid heat (the climate has been described as nine months of winter, three months of hell) and an apathetic attitude held by far too many producers, some terrific wines are being made here by a minority of wineries, and they represent very good value. The rich, red, stony soil hides a water-retentive limestone base that helps offset the lack of rainfall. The best reds are medium- to full-bodied, pure Tempranillo, with a wonderfully rich yet well-balanced flavor, and more and more new-oak influence. The rosados can be smooth and fruity, but it would take a complete overhaul of the vineyards, replanting them with something decent, to make the white wines appealing, although there is really no excuse for their not being fresh.

Airén, Tempranillo

2-6 years (red), 9-18 months (rosado)

Miguel Calatayud * J. A. Megía * Los Llanos * Luis Megía (Marqués de Gastañaga) * Felix Solis (Viña Albali Reserva) * Casa de la Viña (Vega de Moriz)

Front 54

Discuss the Valencia DO.
(Valencia)

Back 54

(p303)
Valencia DO, Valencia:

This area was once renowned for its heavy, alcoholic, and low-quality vino de mesa. However, most modern wineries produce much lighter wines than before, and they are at least fresh and drinkable. There are some good reds from the Monastrell grape, which are smooth and medium-bodied, and these wines may sometimes be aged in oak. The deliciously sweet and raisiny Moscatel is consistently excellent value, often performing well under blind conditions against French Muscat de Beaumes de Venise that sells for twice the price.

Forcayat, Garnacha, Malvasia, Meseguera, Monastrell, Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez, Planta Fina, Tempranillo, Tortosi, Viura

1-4 years (red), 9-18 months (white and rosado), upon opening (Moscatel)

C. A. de Villar * Vicente Gandía * Augusto Egli (particularly good-value Moscatel) * Schenk (Cavas Murviedro) * Tierra Hernández

Front 55

Discuss the Valle de Güímar DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 55

(p304)
Valle de Güímar DO, Canary Islands:

This appellation was established in 1996 for wines from the eastern side of Tenerife, just south of downtown Santa Cruz. The vineyards here abut cultivated fields, which are irrigated and thus indirectly feed these vines. Before gaining DO status, these wines were not even sold locally, but consumed by the people who produced them.

Listán, Listán Negro, Negramoll

Front 56

Discuss the Valle de la Orotava DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 56

(p304)
Valle de la Orotava DO, Canary Islands:

Established in 1996, this appellation covers wines produced on the lush, northern side of Tenerife, between the appellations of Tacoronte-Acentejo and Ycoden-Daute-Isora. Before they were granted DO status, these wines were sold under the vino de la tierra (literally "country wine") of La Orotava-Los Realos.

Listán, Listán Negro

Front 57

Discuss the Vinos de Madrid DO.
(Madrid)

Back 57

(p303)
Vinos de Madrid DO, Madrid:

Much admired by Casanova, who sought refuge in Madrid at a time when the capital was rapidly expanding at the expense of its vineyards, these wines probably assumed a rarity value that outshone their intrinsic quality. By extending the appellation well beyond its fast-disappearing 18th-century boundaries, Vinos de Madrid was resurrected in 1990, although you would have to be a greater lover of these wines than Casanova to declare your open admiration for them. There are, however, a couple of exceptions to the rule, and one of these, Jesús Díaz e Hijos, is exceptional by any standards.

Airén, Albillo, Garnacha, Malvar, Tinto Fino

Drink upon purchase (2-3 years for recommended wines)
Francisco Figuero * Jesús Díaz e Hijos

Front 58

Discuss the Ycoden-Daute-Isora DO.
(Canary Islands)

Back 58

(p304)
Ycoden-Daute-Isora DO, Canary Islands:

This DO was established in 1995 for the wines that are produced on the northwestern corner of the island of Tenerife. In this area, the grapes are usually grown on terraces, which are often irrigated. Before they gained DO status, these wines were sold under the vino de la tierra of Icod de Los Vinos, a name that recalls their long-lost fame. After the Battle of Trafalgar, the Canaries were a favorite watering hole with the British Royal Navy, and the orange-tinged white wines of this area were apparently enjoyed by all ranks.

Listán, Listán Negro

Front 59

Discuss the Yecla DO.
(Murcia)

Back 59

Yecla DO, Murcia:

You might think that these stony-limestone vineyards between Alicante and Jumilla should do rather well in terms of quality, but although some decent wines can be found, nothing special stands out.

The reds produced here are either ink-black, doble pasta-style wines, or are cherry-colored, generally with good body and fruit. Wines from the Campo Arriba zone in the north of this appellation are permitted to add this name to the Yecla DO if they are either red or rosado, and are made from 100% Monastrell grapes harvested at almost half the yield required elsewhere in Yecla. The white wines produced in Yecla are at their best fresh, clean, and pleasantly fruity, but, again, tend not to be remarkable.

Garnacha, Meseguera, Monastrell, Verdil

2-5 years (red, but 3-6 years for Yecla Campo Arriba), 1-2 years (white and rosado)

Castaño (Pozuelo, Las Gruesas) * Ochoa Palao (Cuvée Prestige)

Front 60

What are the DOs of Andalucia?

Back 60

Andalucia:

Condado de Huelva DO
Málaga DO
Montilla-Moriles DO
Sierras de Málaga DO

Front 61

What are the DOs of Aragón?

Back 61

(p303)
Aragón:

Calatayud DO
Campo de Borja DO
Cariñena DO
Somontano DO

Front 62

What are the DOs of the Balearic Islands?

Back 62

Mallorca, Balearic Islands:

Binissalem DO
Pla I Levant DO

Front 63

What are the DOs of the Canary Islands?

Back 63

(p304)
Canary Islands:

La Palma DO
El Hierro DO
Lanzarote DO
Abona DO
Tacoronte-Acentejo DO
Valle de Güímar DO
Valle de la Orotava DO
Ycoden-Daute-Isora DO

Front 64

What are the DOs of Cantabria?

Back 64

Cantabria:

Chacoli or Txakolina DO

Chacoli de Alava (or Getariako Alava)
Chacoli de Guetaria (or Getariako Txakolina)
Chacoli de Vizcaya (or Bizkaiko Txakolina)

Front 65

What are the DOs of Castilla-La Mancha?

Back 65

(p303)
Castilla-La Mancha:

Almansa DO
Dehesa del Carrizal DO
Dominio de Valdepusa DO
Finca Elez DO
La Mancha DO
Manchuela DO
Méntrida DO
Mondéjar DO
Ribera del Júcar DO
Uclés DO
Valdepeñas DO

Front 66

What are the DOs of Castilla-León?

Back 66

Castilla-León:

Bierzo DO
Cigales DO
Ribera del Duero DO
Rueda DO
Toro DO

Front 67

What are the DOs of Catalonia?

Back 67

Catalonia:

Penedés DO
Alella DO
Ampurdan-Costa Brava DO
Catalunya DO
Conca de Barbera DO
Costers del Segre DO
Monstant DO
Pla de Bages DO
Priorat DOCa
Tarragona DO
Terra Alta DO

Front 68

What are the DOs of Extramadura?

Back 68

Extramadura:

Ribera del Guadiana DO

Front 69

What are the DOs of Galicia?

Back 69

Galicia:

Monterrei DO
Rias Baixas DO
Ribeira Sacra DO
Ribeiro DO
Valdeorras DO

Front 70

What are the DOs of Madrid?

Back 70

Madrid:

Vinos de Madrid DO

Front 71

What are the DOs of Mallorca?

Back 71

Mallorca:

Pla I Levant DO

Front 72

What are the DOs of Murcia?

Back 72

Murcia:

Bullas DO
Jumilla DO
Yecla DO

Front 73

What are the DOs of Navarra?

Back 73

Navarra:

Navarra DO

Front 74

What are the DOs of Penedès?

Back 74

Penedès:

Cava DO
Penedès DO

Front 75

What are the DOCa's of Rioja?

Back 75

Rioja:

Rioja DOCa

Front 76

What are the DOs of Sherry Country?

Back 76

Sherry Country:

Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO
Manzanilla DO

Front 77

What are the DOs of Valencia?

Back 77

Valencia:

Alicante DO
Utiel-Requena DO
Valencia DO

Front 78

What are the DO de Pago estates of Spain?

Back 78

DO de Pago Estates:

Dehesa del Carrizal
Dominio de Valdepusa
Finca Élez
Guijoso
Señorío de Arínzano
Prado de Irache
Otazu
Campo de la Guardia
Pago Florentino
Pago Casa del Blanco