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62 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Latch needle
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A needle used in knitting machines that has a crook top and a latch that opens and closes to hold the yarn on the needle.
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Common weft knits:
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Jersey, rib, double knit, purl
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Common warp knits:
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Tricot and Raschel
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Wale
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1) In knitted fabrics, a column of loops in successive courses that is parallel w/ the loop axes.
2) In woven fabrics, one of a series of raised portions or ribs lying warpwise in the fabric. |
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Course
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In knitted fabrics, the series of successive loops lying crosswise of a knitted fabric, that is, lying at right angles to a line passing through the open throat to the closed end of the loops.
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Gauge
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The number of needles in a measured space on the knitting machine; closeness of knit stitches.
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Weft knit fabrics that can be produced w/ two needle beds:
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1) Rib knits
2) Double jersey fabrics 3) Interlock knits 4) Purl knits |
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Which tricot fabric would be more durable among one-, two-, or three-bar tricot fabrics?
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Three-bar because it's heavier than two-bar tricot. The greater number of bars, the greater distance the yarn moves between stitches.
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Bonded fabric
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A layered fabric structure wherein a face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, w/ an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of the combined fabrics.
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Laminated fabric
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A layered fabric structure wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, such as polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally, but not always, is joined on the back w/ a backing fabric such as tricot.
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Crocking
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A transfer of color from the surface of a colored fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another surface, principally by rubbing action.
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Colorfastness
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The ability of a textile material to retain its color during use & care.
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Difference between dyes & pigments?
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Dyes must be soluble or capable of being made soluble in their application so they can penetrate into the fiber, and a cross section of a dyed fiber typically shows color throughout.
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Heat-transfer printing
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A system of textile printing in which dyes are applied to a paper base and are then transferred from the paper to a fabric under heat and pressure.
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Ikat vs. batik
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1) Ikat--a form of resist printing in which sections of warp yarns are made to resist dyes.
2) Batik--Indonesian technique of resist printing in which areas of fabric that are to resist the dye are covered w/ wax. |
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Union dyeing vs. crossing dyeing
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1) Union dyeing produces solid-colored blended textiles.
2) Cross-dyeing produced a multicolored fabric in one operation by mixing dyes, each of which is specific to one fiber, in one dyebath. |
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Why is singeing important?
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Removes surface fibers from fabric to produce a smooth finish.
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Mercerization vs. scouring
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1) Mercerization--the treatment of cellulosic fibers w/ a strong basic solution to swell the fibers and produce permanent changes.
2) Scouring--a wet process for removing dirt or impurities from textiles by application of chemicals or surfactants. |
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Properties of knits:
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1) Stretch in both directions
2) Wrinkle less than woven fabrics 3) Susceptibility to shrinkage or growth depending on fibers used 4) Loops may snag, creating a pulled area in the fabric |
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State some differences you would expect between two weft knit T-shirts if both are identical, except that one is made from a jersey fabric and the other is made from a 2x2 fabric.
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1) Jersey knits stretch, moving comfortably w/ the body. They are resilient, returning to their original shape after stretching. If laundered and tumble dried, they generally require no ironing.
2) Rib knits have greater elasticity in the width than in the length. They are stable and do not curl or stretch out of shape as do the jersey knits. |
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Why should most garments made from weft knitted fabric constructions be folded and stored on shelves or in drawers rather than hung on hangers?
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Hanging may cause the fabric to stretch out of shape.
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If one stitch breaks, the fabric may ladder, or ___.
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run
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Filling knits:
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1) Yarns run horizontally
2) Loops joined one to another in the same course 3) Loops connect horizontally 4) More design possibilities 5) More open fabric 6) Two-way stretch 7) Run, most ravel 8) Hand or machine process 9) Flat or circular 10) Finished edges possible 11) Produced as shaped garments, garment pieces, or yardage |
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Warp knits:
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1) Yarns run vertically
2) Loops joined one to another in adjoining course 3) Loops connect diagonally 4) Higher productivity 5) More compact fabric 6) Crosswise stretch, little lengthwise stretch 7) Most do not run or ravel 8) Machine process only 9) Flat 10) Seldom have finished edges 11) Produced as yardage only |
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Which weft knitted fabric has the same appearance on both sides?
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Two-bed knits
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Typical problems consumers seem to encounter most frequently in regard to knit fabrics?
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1) Susceptibility to shrinkage or growth
2) Loops may snag, creating a pulled area in the fabric |
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What is the typical shrinkage in knitted garments?
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About 3 percent shrinkage in one garment size
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Why does paper not fit the definition of a nonwoven fabric?
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More than 50% of the weight of a nonwoven must be composed of fibers w/ an aspect ratio (length-to-diameter ratio) of 300. This excludes paper products that are normally made of extremely short fibers.
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Web Formation Production Methods:
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1) Dry laid: carded & air laid
2) Wet laid: wet laid 3) Spun laid: spunbonded & melt blown |
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Web Bonding Production Methods:
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1) Chemical: adhesive bonded & solution bonded
2) Mechanical: needlepunched, spunlaced, & stitchbonded 3) Thermal: calender bonded, air bonded, infrared bonded, & ultrasound bonded |
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Qualities that consumers should look for when purchasing a good quality, quilted, down-filled comforter:
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1) Closeness of the quilting stitches
2) Size of the stitches 3) Type of thread used for stitching 4) Durability of the outer fabric 5) Type of filling or batting |
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Problem that can confront customers who utilize poorly constructed bonded or laminated fabrics:
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delamination.
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If you were designing a women's two-piece suit (jacket & skirt), name parts of the suit where you would specify the use of nonwoven fabrics.
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1) Interfacings
2) Interlinings 3) Labels |
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Difference between lace and embroidered fabrics.
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Needlepoint lace stems from embroidery.
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Identify the factors that make each of the following fibers useful for carpets:
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1) Nylon: abrasion & wear resistance
2) Olefin: stain/mildew resistance 3) Acrylic: feel of wool 4) Polyester: easy to clean 5) Wool: resiliency & durability |
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Why do fabrics undergo preparation treatment or routine finishing before dyeing and finishing?
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1) To remove dirt
2) To improve absorbency & whiteness |
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Preparation of cotton fabrics:
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1) Singeing--produces a smooth surface finish
2) Desizing--removes sizing materials 3) Scouring--removes wax & pectin and destroys seed residues 4) Bleaching--produces an evenly white fabric that is essential for bright or pastel shades in dyeing |
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What is the importance of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) in the preparation of cotton or cotton blended fabrics?
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1) Swells seed fragements
2) Converts waxes on cotton fibers to soap 3) "Soap" washes away any dirt or other impurities |
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Possible flaws in garment dyed apparel? How can you avoid them?
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1) Fabric: All fabric used in one garment must come from the same bolt of fabric. If, for example, one trouser leg of a pair of pants is cut from one bolt of fabric and the other from another bolt, each leg may dye to a different shade. The result would be pants in which the legs do not match.
2) Shrinkage: Fabric must also be tested for shrinakge before cutting of garments, and garments must be cut large enough to allow for shrinkage so sizes will be accurate. 3) Thread: Thread must be chosen carefully & tested to be sure it will accept the dye in the same way as the fabric. 100% cotton thread is preferred, but even with all-cotton thread, there may be problems. For example, mercerized thread will dye to a darker shade than unmercerized garment fabric. This will make the stitching stand out from the background fabric. 4) Labels, buttons, zippers: All of these supplies must be compatible w/ the garment fabric in terms of reaction to the dye & shrinkage. |
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Bleeding
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When dyes bleed into water during laundering & are picked up by lighter-colored fabrics.
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Exhaustion
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When as much dye as possible is absorbed.
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Different stages at which color can be added to a textile?
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1) Solution dyeing
2) Dyeing fibers 3) Yarn dyeing 4) Fabric/piece dyeing 5) Garment dyeing |
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Dyes for Cellulosic Fibers:
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1) Reactive dyes
2) Direct dyes 3) Vat dyes 4) Sulfur dyes 5) Azoic dyes |
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Dyes Used for Wool, Silk, and Nylon:
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1) Acid dyes
2) Chrome, or mordant, dyes |
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Dyes Used Primarily for Manufactured Fibers:
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1) Basic dyes
2) Disperse dyes |
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Two types of dyes for cotton fabrics w/ good color fastness towards washing (wet, or laundry):
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1) Vat
2) Sulfur |
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Typical dye for cotton fabrics, producing dark colors?
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Sulfur
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Resist printing vs. discharge printing:
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1) Resist printing--the achieving of designs by causing sections of fabric to resist dye
2) Discharge printing--the creation of design by applying a discharge material that removes color from treated areas of a dyed fabric |
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If a fabric, which is to be printed by the flat screen process, will have a design of red & yellow flowers against a printed green background, how many screens will be needed?
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3
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Roller printing vs. roller screen printing:
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1) Roller printing: copper rollers etched w/ design of each color
2) Screen printing: – A screen is prepared for each color – Lacquer coating – Viscous dye using a squeegee – Flatbed and rotary screen |
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Name the fabrics (fiber type) over which heat transfer printing is effective.
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1) Polyester
2) Nylon 3) Acetate 4) Acrylic |
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For what kind of fabric would the embossed design be permanent?
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Thermoplastic
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Napping vs. sueding:
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Napped fabrics have a deeper pile or nap on the surface of the fabric than sueded fabrics.
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Function of durable press finish:
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To retain substantially the initial shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases, and unwrinkled appearance during use & after laundering or dry cleaning.
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If you want to produce a flame-retardant fabric, what options do you have besides finishing?
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Inherent flame-resistant fibers:
– Modacrylic – PBI – PBO – Aramid – Wool |
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Stain-resistant vs. water-repellent:
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1) Stain-resistant finishes were developed to increase resistance to food & other common stains
2) Water-repellent fabrics resist penetration by water |
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Techniques to decrease static electric build-up in fabrics made from fibers that are poor conductors of electricity:
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1) Antistatic finishes
2) Modification of the polymer before extrusion 3) Use special, high-performance antistatic fibers (EX: metal, metallized, and bicomponent fibers) 4) Antistatic sprays |
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Mechanical vs. chemical finishes:
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1) Mechanical
– Surface finishes – Shrinkage control 2) Chemical – Wrinkle resistance and recovery – Fabric hand alteration – Water and (s)oil repellency – Flame resistance – Antimicrobial finishes |
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T/F: Most wrinkle-resistant finishes are derived in part from formaldehyde?
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TRUE
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T/F: Wrinkle-resistant fabrics are less likely to abrade at points of stress than fabrics that have not been given a durable press finish.
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FALSE
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T/F: It is often easier to remove oil-based stains from wrinkle-resistant fabrics than from similar fabrics w/out durable press finishes.
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FALSE; Durable-press finishes made cotton more hydrophobic, which increased attraction of oils & reduced water penetration.
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What effect would each of the following chemical finishes produce?
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1) Silicone = soil repellency
2) Fluorochemical = wrinkle-resistance 3) Crosslinking resin = softness 4) Silver = antimicrobial |
