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56 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
What is the difference between regular yarn and sewing thread?
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1) Yarns: Fiber assemblies intended for weaving, knitting, or otherwise combining into a textile fabric
2) Sewing threads: used for sewing together sections of garments or other products. |
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Characteristics of sewing threads:
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1) High stability to bending
2) Good strength 3) Limited elongation 4) Minimal shrinkage 5) Good abrasion resistance |
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What will be the effect of increasing twist on the following yarn characteristics?
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1) Yarn size: increasing twist decreases apparent yarn size.
2) Yarn strength: strength increases in staple yarns as twist increases up to a certain point. 3) Yarn abrasion: abrasion resistance is increased by tighter twist. |
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Tex
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Weight in grams of a 1-kilometer (1,000-meter) length of yarn.
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Denier
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Weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn.
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Linen count/linen lea
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Number of hanks of 300 yards in 1 pound.
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Cotton count
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Number of hanks of 840 yards in 1 pound.
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Which of the following pairs of yarns is finer?
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1) 10s wool vs. 5s wool: 10s wool
2) 400 denier polyester vs. 300 denier polyester: 300 denier 3) 20s cotton vs. 10s cotton: 20s cotton 4) 20s linen vs. 20s cotton: 20s cotton |
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Stretch-texturing methods:
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1) False-twist
2) Stuffer-box 3) Gear-crimping 4) Edge-crimping |
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Bulk-texturing methods:
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1) Air-jet
2) Hot-fluid jet |
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Textured yarn:
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A filament yarn in which the smooth, straight form of the fibers has been altered for stretch or bulk.
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Carding
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The process step in making spun yarns in which fibers are passed through intermeshing wires that separate and pull them into somewhat parallel form.
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Combing
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A process step following carding in making spun yarns in which the fibers are pulled through a comblike device into a more parallel alignment.
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______ yarns have smooth surfaces & finer diameters than do _______ yarns. Because the shorter fibers have been removed, fewer short ends show on the surface of the fabric, and the lust is increased.
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Combed, carded
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Two types of yarn made from wool fiber?
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1) Woolen yarns
2) Worsted yarns |
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Woolen yarns:
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1) Soft & bulky
2) Many fiber ends 3) Fuzzy appearance & hand 4) Weak 5) Poor abrasion resistance |
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Worsted yarns:
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1) Smooth, sleek, and compact
2) Fewer fiber ends on the surface 3) Better strength 4) Crisper hand |
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Why are ply yarns more likely to be found in better high-priced garments than in moderate to lower cost items?
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Ply yarns are much more expensive than single yarns.
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Purposes of blending:
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1) Thorough intermixing of fibers
2) Combining fibers w/ different properties to produce yarns w/ characteristics that cannot be obtained by using one type of fiber alone. |
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Shed
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The passageway between the warp yarns through which the shuttle is thrown in weaving.
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Steps in weaving:
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1) Winding yarns on the warp beam
2) Drawing-in 3) Winding yarns on the quill 4) Shedding 5) Picking 6) Beating up 7) Taking up/letting off |
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Fabric count/thread count
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Number of yarns in one inch or centimeter of warp and in one inch or centimeter of filling.
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What would be the fabric count if the fabric has 75 yarns per inch in the warp and 65 yarns per inch in the filling?
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75 x 65
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Balanced weave
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When the number of yarns in the warp is similar to the number of yarns in the filling.
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Unbalanced weave
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Weaves with more yarns in the warp than in the filling.
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__________ fabrics usually exhibit so-called rib effects created when number finer warp yarns cross over coarser filling yarns.
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Unbalanced
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Costs increase more rapidly as the number of picks (filling yarns) per inch increases; therefore, fabrics w/ ________ weaves or those w/ more yarns in the filling than in the warp are more costly to manufacture.
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balanced
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When warp and filling yarns intersect at right angles, the fabric is said to be . . .
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true on grain or grain perfect.
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When the yarns do not lie in the proper position, the fabric is said to be . . .
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off-grain.
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T/F: The extent to which a fabric is on true grain is an indicator of fabric quality.
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TRUE
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Effect of being off-grain?
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1) Plaids and stripes do not match
2) Does not drape properly 3) Pant legs twist |
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Warp/end
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The yarn running lengthwise in a woven fabric.
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Filling/pick
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Yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp in a woven fabric.
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In a weave diagram, what does a darkened square represent? A light square?
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1) Darkened square = warp
2) Light square = filling |
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What is the importance of selvage in a fabric?
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Prevent loose yarn ends from fraying or raveling.
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Plain weave:
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Yarns at right angles pass over and under each other.
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Characteristics of plain weave:
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1) Wears well
2) Ravels less 3) Wrinkles more 4) Less absorbent 5) Easy care |
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Twill weave:
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Each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns.
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Characteristics of twill weave:
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1) Drapes well
2) Shows less soil but harder to clean 3) Strong 4) Good abrasion resistance 5) Softer 6) Wrinkles less 7) Sheds soil readily 8) Wind resistant |
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Satin weave:
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Each warp yarn floats over 4 filling yarns and interlaces with a fifth filling yarn.
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Characteristics of satin weave:
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1) Snags and abrades easily
2) High thread count 3) Low air permeability 4) Resists wrinkling 5) Yarn slippage 6) High luster 7) Smooth & slippery 8) Sheds dirty easily |
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What is the difference between satin fabric and sateen fabric?
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1) Satin: warp floats, filament yarns, manufactured fibers, long floats
2) Sateen: filling floats, staple yarns, cotton, short floats |
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Three reasons why fabrics w/ the same weave can still have different appearances:
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1) Drape
2) Shrinkage 3) Surface properties |
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The fabric stretches more in the ____ direction than in the warp or filling direction.
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Bias
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How can a jacquard loom create intricate patterns in a woven fabric?
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It controls each warp yarn separately by threading it through a loop in the end of a leash or cord.
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Texturing
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Modifying the feel and bulk of filament yarns.
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Simple yarns
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Yarns w/ uniform size and regular surface.
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Cord yarns
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Two or more ply yarns.
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Filament yarns
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Long, continuous strands of fiber.
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Monofilament yarns
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Yarns made from a single filament.
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Multifilament yarns
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Yarns with many filaments.
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Stape/spun yarns
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Yarns made from staple-length fibers.
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Single yarn
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Staple fibers twisted together.
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Ply yarns
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Two or more single yarns.
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Novelty yarns
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Yarns made to create interesting decorative effects in the fabric.
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Complex yarns
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Yarns with more than one part.
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