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25 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
3 ways of grading cotton
-Color
-Length
-Character
neps
tangles - will dye
motes
unsprouted cotton seeds - won't take dye
3 types of retting
-chemical
-water
-dew
Ramie
linen-like, blended with cotton
-highly crystalline; low resiliency and elongation.
-very strong
Hemp
long fibers; worst elongation; very cool; mildew resistant
Coir
from coconut; abrasion and weather resistant; Ropes, baskets, door mats
in Sri Lanka
Kapok
from Java kapok tree. Used in inflatables because bouyant and waterproof
Pina
used in Philippine ritual clothing; soft, sheer fabric from pineapples
Jute
biblical sackcloth; ropes, etc. very short and weak
Merino
has no guard (kemp) hair
Mohair
from angora sheep; less felting; finer, long, tougher, shinier, no crimp
Angora
from angora rabbit. soft, hard to dye
quiviut
from musk ox; clean; warmer than cashmere
Camel hair
from bactrian; lightest and warmest; can't be dyed or bleached;
Cashmere
from cashmere goat; very soft, very fine; no medulla, still warm;
Alpaca and llama
soft, good drape, less felting
Vicuna
very soft, most expensive, cinnamon-colored
Duppioni
overlapping, thick silk fibers
4 manufacturing processes
melt, wet, dry, solvent
Fiber Modifications
Size
Shape
Structure (crystallinity, orientation, etc)
Additives
After-spinning process
Bicomponent
Why modify crystallinity? results?
Increase polymerization, lower pilling, binding, higher or lower elongation and tenacity
Additive uses:
delustering polyester; dyeing; whitening and brightening; adding chemicals to help dye take; antistatic, UV resistant, flame resistant, etc.
3 kinds of bico:
side by side (crimp), core and sheath (melting of batting), matrix fibril (dyeable and non-dyeable olefin)
Flax harvesting:
Rippling; Retting; Rinse and Dry; Scutching; Hackling,