Textiles As Section A

Front 1

What's a crystalline region?

Back 1

Has a high orientation as it is tightly packed together. It is strong. Structure is regular. Difficult to dye, no extensibility. Make cool fabric as there's no air gaps. Poor insulation. Cannot absorb water.

Front 2

What's an amorphous region? (natural) (interpolymer space)

Back 2

Has low orientation. Very week, high extensibility. Absorb lots of water and dye. Not static, very good insulator.

Front 3

What's additional polymerisation?

Back 3

Monomers added together (homopolymer)

Front 4

What fibres are made with additional polymerisation?

Back 4

Polyacrylics, polyvinyl, polypropolene

Front 5

What's condensation polymerisation?

Back 5

Joining together two different types of monomers (copolymer, by product is water)

Front 6

What does condensation polymerisation make?

Back 6

Polyesters, polyamide

Front 7

What's block polymerisation?

Back 7

Joining blocks of monomers (copolymer)

Front 8

What does block polymerisation make?

Back 8

Elastomeric fibres

Front 9

What does thermoplastic mean?

Back 9

A low heat is applied it slightly melts to allow molding and shaping

Front 10

What does thermosetting mean?

Back 10

When heat is applied the fibres set

Front 11

Linen

Back 11

Comes from bast (stem). It's uneven-nodes make it irregular. Good lustre

Reflects light so cool. Can be bleacher and it's good for table clothes.

Front 12

Cotton

Back 12

Mercerisation makes it shiny which lasts the products lifetime. When it is picked, the fabric dries out. Has amorphous regions. Nowhere for light to reflect. Cool to wear unless brushed, highly absorbent, slow drying, very comfortable unless wet, soft handle, good drape, good strength, abrasion resistance and durability. Creases easily, no elasticity. Naturally breathable

Front 13

Wool

Back 13

It shrinks when washed due to scales. Sheep have lanolin which repels water. It has a natural crimp.

Medium strength, not durable. Creases drop out. Can absorb a third of its weight in water, slow drying. Bulky and warm, bio degradable

Front 14

Silk

Back 14

Flat surfaces give it a sheen

Front 15

Lyocell

Back 15

Trade name for tencel. Mixed with amino oxide, purified then reused. Does not harm environment and comes from wood pulp.

Front 16

What do all synthetic fibres come from?

Back 16

Oil, they're put in a vat and mixed together. Heavy on fossil fuels. Not renewable.

Front 17

What do synthetic fibres not do?

Back 17

Decompose. Factories try to burn them which causes pollution.

Front 18

What is carding?

Back 18

Combing out debris from natural fibres.

Front 19

What happens after carding?

Back 19

The fibres is cleaned, then spun

Front 20

What is a mixture?

Back 20

Making fabric out of different yarns.

Front 21

What's a blend?

Back 21

Making a yarn from different fabrics.

Front 22

What are the reasons for mixing fabric?

Back 22

Cost, aftercare, makes best fabric, changes properties, aesthetics, specific quality adding lycra and elastane adds stretch.

Front 23

Plain weave

Back 23

Simplest weave, very flat and smooth, surface is ideal for printing, highest number of interlocking points. Strong and firm, won't go out of shape. Calico, chiffon, taffeta, fannel

Front 24

Twill

Back 24

Gabardien. Over one warp, under two or three weft

Front 25

Satin

Back 25

Weft yarn is almost completely covered by the warp. Goes under up to five times. Snags easily, very definite right or wrong side. Not hard waring, polyester is the yarn, satin is the weave. Crêpe

Front 26

Three yarn weave

Back 26

Towel, corduroy. Velvet can be flattened when it's pressed so needle board is used.

Front 27

Knits

Back 27

Weft knitting, yarn goes all the way across, wale, when it's going down, circular knitting, socks, hats, tights, polyester fleece is weft knitted- good insulator.

Front 28

Warp knit

Back 28

See image

Front 29

Types of knitted garments

Back 29

Fully fashioned, each part of the garment is knitted. Partly fashioned, partly measured out. Circular knitting, no waste

Front 30

Bonded

Back 30

Very cheap, short staple fibres. Needs to be thermoplastic. Can be made with an adhesive. Hospital masks. Very useful

Front 31

Finishes

Back 31

Permanent, durable, semidurable, temporary. Physical or chemical. Gives product a finished look

Front 32

What is raising?

Back 32

Permanent or durable. Brushing. The fabric is passed through the rollers which have fine needles. It makes it soft and warm

Front 33

Embossing

Back 33

An engraved pattern is on the drums that creates the pattern

Front 34

Calendering

Back 34

The fabric is passed through the rollers, it creates a smooth and lustre finish

Front 35

What is biostoning

Back 35

Cellulose enzyme, painted onto the fabric where they want the dye to he removed which "eats" the dye. No damage done to fabric or machinery

Front 36

What is biopolishing?

Back 36

Polishing the surface with enzymes

Front 37

What are biological security markers?

Back 37

Used on high quality products. Used to check if the fabric is genuine

Front 38

What is sympatex?

Back 38

A fabric that has no micropores, water vapour through by way of absorption and evaporation

Front 39

How are chemical finishes applied?

Back 39

Either sprayed on or put in a bath. Either one side or both. Can be temporary

Front 40

How can you press a fabric and what is it used for?

Back 40

Dry heat or steam. Used for shaping, stabilising or setting

Front 41

When can pressing be done?

Back 41

Anytime during the manufacture.

Flat pressing- like ironing

Steaming- during making steaming a seam can help it relax which prevents shrinkage

Underpressing- when you press something to stop it getting in the way

Molding- helps with making seams

Top pressing- final finish

Front 42

What might you do to the fabric before surface decoration?

Back 42

Fabric may need to be scouring- removed oils

Bleached- pure white to get ready to be dyed if not you get greige

Mercerisation- polishing

Front 43

What is colouration?

Back 43

Dying the fabric, can be natural or synthetic

Front 44

What types of printing are there?

Back 44

Screen, sublimation, block

Front 45

What is discharge printing?

Back 45

Removes the dye. A paste is put onto the fabric which contains enzymes that eats the fabric

Front 46

What affects colour fastness?

Back 46

Washing, bleaching, perspiration, antiperspirant, chlorine, crocking

Front 47

What are the different ways of dying fabrics?

Back 47

Direct dye- cellulosic fibres, soluble in water, doesn't have very good wash fastness, goes into amorphous regions

Vat dye- not soluble, excellent wash and light fastness. Very poor crocking, if you add oxygen to the dye the molecules swell which traps the dye

Disperse dye- not soluble, mixed with an aqueous solution which makes a chemical bond

Acid dye- is soluble, formed in an acidic baths, good sun fastness, alkaline deteriorates it

Reactive dye- cellulosic and protein fibres, doesn't wash out, soluble

Front 48

What fabrics do the different types of dying dye?

Back 48

Front 49

What is yarn dyeing?

Back 49

Yarns are dyed before being made into fabric.

Front 50

What is piece dyeing?

Back 50

This is when woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece.

Front 51

What is garment dyeing?

Back 51

This is when woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece.

Front 52

What is yarn dyeing?

Back 52

Yarns are dyed before being made into fabric.

Front 53

What is piece dyeing?

Back 53

This is when woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece.

Front 54

What is garment dyeing?

Back 54

made-up garments are dyed as required. This allows manufacturers of fashion products to apply colour at the last minute as and when there is consumer demand for the latest shades

Front 55

Talk about the dyeing process?

Back 55

When dyeing fibres, yarns and fabrics it is important to apply the colour evenly and to avoid damaging the textile. Yarns should not become tangled and fabrics and garments should not be creased, or their shape/size be distorted. Synthetic fibres can only be dyed at temperatures above 100°C and therefore machines which are able to operate under pressure must be used. The dyeing process can be continuous, discontinuous (batch), or semi-continuous.

Front 56

What is continuous dyeing?

Back 56

In continuous dyeing, the fabric is passed through a small pad bath which contains the dye. It is then squeezed between rubber- covered rollers which ensure that the dye penetrates the fabric evenly. The fabric then moves on to the fixing machinery which fixes the dye within the fibre.

Front 57

What is batch dyeing?

Back 57

In these processes a specific weight of fabric is treated in a self-contained machine, in a dye bath which contains a specific weight of dye. Different methods are used according to the type of fabric being dyed

Front 58

What is resit dyeing?

Back 58

the fabric is printed with chemicals which prevent dye being taken up in the chemically treated areas.

Front 59

What is dyed technique?

Back 59

the fabric is printed with a mordant and the true colour is achieved by applying the second part of the colouring compound during dyeing.

Front 60

What is direct dye?

Back 60

the design is printed directly on to the fabric.

Front 61

What is discharge dyeing?

Back 61

the dyed fabric is printed with a paste containing chemicals which destroy the dye in areas according to the printed design.

Front 62

What is transfer/sublimation printing?

Back 62

This is a similar technique to ironing transfers on to fabric. The design is printed on to a special type of paper which is wound on to a roller and placed in position in the machine. The design is the full width of the cloth to be printed. The fabric, on another roller, is placed opposite the design paper roller and both fabric and paper are brought together in a dry heat press which transfers the design from the paper to the cloth. The temperature of the heat press is high enough to cause the dye to turn into a vapour which then transfers, under pressure, to the fabric. This is also known as sublimation printing

Front 63

What is rotary printing?

Back 63

Rotary screen printing is the most popular method of screen printing because it is quick and efficient and allows a greater quantity of fabric to be printed in a short time. The screen is a seamless metal mesh roller; a screen is prepared for each colour in the design. All the rollers are fitted on to the printing machine. The stationary squeegee is fitted through the centre of the roller and the dye is automatically fed in through a pipe attachment. Each screen roller prints one colour across the width of the fabric. While the rollers are revolving in one direction the conveyor belt carrying the fabric moves in the opposite. The cloth travels under the rollers and is printed by each in turn. The fabric is dried and finished as before.

Front 64

What is roller printing?

Back 64

This is a similar technique to rotary screen printing but uses engraved rollers to print the design.

Front 65

What is a winch machine and what does it do?

Back 65

Fabrics (piece goods) can be dyed using the winch machine. The fabric is sewn so that it forms a continuous band of fabric which is then passed round and round, over the winch and through the dye liquor. This method is used for lightweight woven fabrics and knitted fabrics.

Front 66

What is jet dyeing?

Back 66

Jet dyeing is similar to winch dyeing except that the fabric is moved round the machine by a high pressure jet of the dye liquor.

Front 67

What is semi-continuous dyeing?

Back 67

The fabric is then wound up onto a batching roller – this is capable of holding very long lengths of fabric. The dye can then be fixed onto the fabric whilst it is on the batching roller, or it can be fixed in a separate process.

Front 68

What are the advantages of dyeing a fabric?

Back 68

Printing is a technique of applying colour to fabric via some medium which carries a design. It offers certain advantages over dyeing: • greater scope for designing • more colours can be produced • complicated designs can be produced by printing • methods of printing are quite varied • usually less costly

Front 69

What are dyes and pigments?

Back 69

Dyes are soluble in water, pigments are not. Dyes used for printing are made up into a viscous paste by using a thickener which may be a starch, gum or alginate. Pigments are another technique used to colour fabrics. The pigments, which in themselves have no affinity for the fibre, are fixed by means of a synthetic resin binder which holds them onto the fabric.

Front 70

What are the techniques of printing?

Back 70

The techniques of printing are many and varied but only roller printing, screen printing and rotary screen printing are of commercial importance. In recent years roller printing has declined significantly through the introduction of rotary screen printing.

Front 71

What is screen printing?

Back 71

this technique is derived from the Japanese method of stencilling delicate patterns on fine fabrics. A mesh screen is prepared for each colour in the design. There are two different methods of screen printing – flat screen printing and rotary screen printing.

Front 72

What is flat screen printing?

Back 72

The fabric to be printed is on a roll at one end of the printing table. The fabric is fed on to the table by means of a conveyor belt which carries the cloth under the printing screens. When the fabric stops, the screens are lowered onto the printing table. The screens are placed side by side a few centimetres above the table, and are lowered on to the cloth when printing commences. Each screen prints a different colour across the width of the fabric. Two fine blades called squeegees move across the screens pressing the printing paste through the mesh of the screen. After the blades have pressed the dye through to the cloth the screens rise and the conveyor moves the fabric along into position under the next screen.

Front 73

Fibres from natural sources

Back 73

Natural plant/vegetable (cellulosic) Natural animal (protein) Natural mineral Cotton (seed) wool asbestos (no longer in use) Linen (bast) silk silicate Ramie (bast) cashmere Jute (bast) mohair Hemp (bast) angora Pineapple (leaf) llama Banana (leaf) Vicuna Bamboo (bast)

Front 74

What are the man made fibres?

Back 74

Regenerated (Natural polymers) Man – made Inorganic viscose modal Lyocell® Tencel® polyesters Trevira® Polartec® Glass fibres acetate triacetate polyamides eg nylon Tactel® Supplex® Aramid fibres eg,Kevlar®, Nomex®, Zylon®, Cordura® Carbon fibres cupro elastomeric fibres egLycra® Spandex Metallic fibres (aluminium, copper gold, silver, steel, titanium) alginate polyacrylic acrylic rubber chlorofibres eg polyvinyl chloride (PVC) Rhovyl Ceramic fibres eg used for anti-bacterial properties, thermal regulation, UV protection polyolefines eg polypropylene polyethylene (eg Tyvek)

Front 75

Cellulose fibres ?

Back 75

Fibres have different properties according to where they come from. Cellulose fibres (cotton, linen) tend to be strong and good at absorbing moisture; this means they can take a long time to dry. They can be washed and ironed at high temperatures. Unfortunately they crease badly and shrink, but they can be given a special finish to overcome this. They are also easy to set alight so can be dangerous.

Front 76

Synthetic fibres?

Back 76

Synthetic fibres, such as polyester and nylon, are very strong, good at resisting abrasion, and lightweight. Most synthetic fibres are not good at absorbing moisture so they dry quickly – this is not the same as being waterproof! Synthetic fibres do not shrink and do not crease much during normal use. Because they are thermoplastic, they will become soft when hot, so should not be washed at high temperatures; otherwise they will become badly creased during the washing and spinning process. These creases are not easy to remove as the fabrics melt under a very hot iron with disastrous consequences! Synthetic fibres do not set alight easily but will melt and drip – this molten fibre is very hot and can cause serious burns.

Front 77

Manufactured fibres?

Back 77

Manufactured fibres have different properties according to their source. Standard viscose is derived from cellulose and has some similar properties to cotton. It is very absorbent but not a very strong fibre, especially when wet. It can also shrink and crease very badly. Most viscose fabrics are given special finishes to reduce shrinking and creasing. Viscose has a silky feel to it. Many new viscose-type fibres are being manufactured, eg Tencel, which are stronger and do not crease and shrink.

Front 78

What does a designer have to do?

Back 78

The designer needs to work with the production team to make sure that: • their ideas can be manufactured in quantity • the products they design are safe for the end user • the products are safe to manufacture • the products do not give offence to anyone • environmental issues are considered • a profit can be made.

Front 79

How do designers get inspiration?

Back 79

Designers usually work to a theme, eg Japanese/Indian/Mexican culture. They need a source of inspiration to help them think of new ideas. Sometimes they look at the work of artists, eg Klimt, Matisse. They visit trade fairs and catwalk shows and study trend forecasts to see in which direction fashion trends are moving. Fashion trends often repeat themselves and designers will look to other eras for inspiration, eg the 1960s, 1980s. Fashion products are made for many different markets and a design house may have different lines with different levels of quality, price, target market, and method of production. This may include couture (one-off or bespoke), Ready-to-wear (Prêt-à-porter), diffusion lines, limited editions, budget ranges.

Front 80

How can a designer use CAD?

Back 80

Some of the many ways that CAD can help a designer include: • using computer programmes to experiment with colour and texture • designing repeat patterns for fabric prints, embroidery designs, knitted or woven pattern • making a virtual prototype to see what a product might look like in different colourways and fabric textures and on a human form • developing pattern templates • providing a database of images which can be adapted and changed as required • communicating ideas through presentation boards • showing the likely costs of making the product through the use of spreadsheets.

Front 81

How can a client help?

Back 81

The client will want to look at the first design ideas and choose some for development. The ideas will need to be presented clearly. A designer will probably use a presentation board to show ideas. The presentation board will have sketches of the products and some samples of the fabrics and components which could be used. When some ideas have been chosen they will need to be developed into final designs. Some of the development will probably be done using computers.

Front 82

How can CAD be used?

Back 82

Computer programmes can be used to experiment with colour and pattern. Fabric patterns can be stored on the computer and overlaid onto the design sketches to see what the finished product will look like. The computer can be used to show a 3-D model of a garment and develop the pattern templates needed to make it. A virtual garment can be shown on a model to see how different fabrics will look when made up.

Front 83

Why is a prototype used?

Back 83

• it tests out the design and gives ideas for development • it shows what the final product will look like • any problems can be put right before manufacture starts • it helps with the planning for manufacture • it provides a sealed sample of the product.

Front 84

Why are lay plans made on the computer?

Back 84

• there is minimum wastage • different sizes can be cut together to reduce waste • all the pattern pieces are cut out • any pattern, one-way design or nap in the fabric is taken account of • pattern pieces are cut on the correct grain of the fabric.

Front 85

What is just in time?

Back 85

Many modern factories use a just in time (JIT) system of buying stock. This means that the fabric and components are delivered to the factory just as they are needed on the production line and already inspected. This system can save money as warehouse space and fabrics inspectors are not needed, but there will be problems if the materials are delivered late or if the fabric is faulty.

Front 86

How does a computer controlled cutting machine?

Back 86

Special marks or notches have to be made on the fabric pieces so that the machinists have guides for accurate stitching and also to show which pieces of fabric should be sewn together. This is often done by drilling small holes through the layers of fabric, thread marking through all the layers or using a notcher which makes a small cut at the fabric edge

Front 87

What's one off production?

Back 87

One highly skilled craftsperson produces a single garment or textile product over a number of days or weeks. Each product is made only once or only in very small quantities. This method may be used to make a theatre costume or an outfit to fit an individual customer. The garments are usually unique and finished to a very high standard. They are very expensive because of the labour costs and the use of costly materials.

Front 88

What are bundles?

Back 88

The bundles of cut product pieces are labelled before being sent to be sewn. Often the labels provide information which can be read by computers. This means that a product’s progress through the manufacturing process can be checked on.

Front 89

What's batch production?

Back 89

A team of workers make a specified number of identical products which may be made in one production run or in batches repeated at certain times. A batch can range from 2 or 3 products to a 100,000 or more. In a large factory many batches of different products for different customers and delivery dates will be processed at the same time. This involves complex planning. In modern manufacturing, workers operate in teams or production modules. The workers share tasks and equipment and become more skilled because the job they do changes day by day according to what is being made. The machinery used is more versatile than that used in mass production and workers will be skilled at using a variety of different machines. Each module is responsible for its own performance. Working as a team means that products are made quicker than one person working alone and allows for some flexibility so that they can respond quickly to changes in demand. Computer control can help manufacturers respond quickly to changes in the market and save on production costs by using quick response methods. This means that a product is completed from start to finish by a multi-skilled operative moving around machinery in a horseshoe arrangement. 3 operatives might work together in a horseshoe of 8 machines to complete individual garments.

Front 90

What is mass production?

Back 90

Very large quantities of products are made over and over again in assembly line production. Machines are in continuous use for long periods of time so they are very specialised and expensive. The machinery and the operator skills are very specific for the job in hand. A number of operatives work on the production line and each does one part of the manufacture before passing the product to the next person who does a different job. Workers become skilled at doing one part of the manufacture but may need to be re-trained to do other types of work. This system enables them to make identical products very quickly but can be very boring for the workers. This system is also called synchronized or progressive bundle production as the products are put together as they progress through the system.

Mass production reduces time and costs but the whole production can quickly halt if there is a problem and changing the line to make a different product can take a long time. This method is not usually used for clothing as styles change often. Some factories may specialise in products which don’t change often, eg jeans.

Front 91

What's a unit production system?

Back 91

A Unit Production System (UPS) is a computerised system used to plan, control and direct the flow of work through a manufacturing system. The unit of production is the complete product which is taken automatically from one work station to the next. The rate of production is pre-determined and the computer sets the speed at which sections of the product are taken to the operator. The section of the product is brought by overhead conveyor as close to the operator as possible, reducing the amount of movement needed to position the item to be stitched. Some operations can be carried out without removing parts from the hanger.

Front 92

How to plan for manufacture?

Back 92

When planning for manufacture the different stages in the manufacture are grouped together into key areas of production. Some sections of the product may be made as sub-assemblies. This is where some parts of the product are assembled before they go to the main production line. Some sections of the product may be made in a different factory which has specialised machinery, or workers who are especially skilled in a particular type of production such as embroidery. Sub-contracting to specialist manufacturers helps reduce manufacturing costs and enables the finished product to be high quality. Many textiles products are designed in one country and made in another. The designers and manufacturers can easily communicate via the internet, and computer generated information about a final design can be sent anywhere in the world in a few seconds. The information can be fed directly from the computer into manufacturing systems to make the product.

Front 93

Why are products made overseas?

Back 93

Products are made overseas because labour is cheaper or materials may be more readily available. Some overseas manufacturers have skilled workers who are able to perform specialist tasks. Many textiles products sold in the UK have been made in other countries. The environmental costs of manufacturing products overseas, with the ensuing consequences for employment in the UK are issues that need to be considered. Other social and moral issues surrounding overseas manufacture may be related to working conditions and pay for those employed in the production of fashion and other textile items.

Front 94

Why is CAM used?

Back 94

CAM is a term used to describe production processes which are done by computer controlled machines. One problem with batch production is that after a relatively small number of products have been made a machine has to be re-set to the requirements of a different product. The main advantage of CAM is that the new instructions can be stored electronically and can be downloaded and programmed into the machine very quickly. CAM is also used to replace a manual operation which means that a machine can work continuously. The quality is more consistent with fewer faulty goods produced. CAM systems can also work with materials and chemicals which might be harmful to humans. Computer controlled machines can be used to produce logos and embroidery.

Front 95

Why are automotive conveyor systems used?

Back 95

Many factories use an automatic conveyor system which usually runs overhead to deliver the work to the operators as it is required. There is a small terminal at each work station on the assembly line which the operator uses to monitor work in progress and record any problems such as thread breaking or a machine fault.

Front 96

A designer

Back 96

The designer has an important role to play in the success or otherwise of a product. They have a responsibility to their employer (client) to come up with ideas that will match the brief they have been given, will be appropriate for the identified target market and that final costs will remain within the allocated budget. In today’s world designers have a responsibility to ensure that the products they design will not have an adverse effect on the environment.

Front 97

Fabric and garment technologist?

Back 97

The technologist is responsible for ensuring that designs can be produced efficiently and economically and that the retailer/consumer is assured of high quality products which will stand up to wear and tear. They will probably be responsible for checking prototypes to inform the production process, developing final pattern templates, drawing up technical specifications for fabrics, components and manufacturing processes and overseeing manufacture of the product.

Front 98

A buyer?

Back 98

The buyer is responsible for anticipating the demands of the retail market, including what and how many products the consumer is likely to buy in the coming season. The buyer works for the retailer and orders the products from the manufacturer. In a large organisation a buyer may specialise in a particular area such as children’s wear or eveningwear. The buyer will attend fashion shows as well as viewing collections in designers’ and manufacturers’ showrooms and much of this will involve traveling abroad. Buying the wrong styles in the wrong quantities can be a very costly mistake.

Front 99

Merchandiser?

Back 99

The merchandiser works with the buyer and will oversee the layout of the shop floor, the stock control and distribution of goods between different branches of the retailer. This title may also be applied to a sales assistant who has responsibility for the display of the stock on the shop floor.

Front 100

Visual merchandiser?

Back 100

The visual merchandiser is responsible for the way in which products are displayed within a retail outlet, including window displays and creative themed displays within the store.

Front 101

Quality assurance?

Back 101

Quality assurance is much wider than just Quality Control. It is about a company’s commitment to quality at every stage of the design and manufacture process, including the training of the workforce and the way in which problems are dealt with. It is about getting things right the first time and every member of staff is responsible for producing quality. BSI lays down standards for QA systems. Companies wishing to register for approved status must provide documented evidence of their Quality System and undergo regular inspections by BSI inspectors to ensure that the standards are being maintained.

Front 102

Quality control?

Back 102

Quality control is an important part of manufacture and manufacturers need to make sure that the goods they produce are of an acceptable standard. It is very difficult to make lots of products which are all exactly identical but it is important that all parts of the product fit together exactly and that it falls within pre-determined tolerances.

Front 103

What are British standards?

Back 103

BSI regularly test samples of a range of products and award certification to say that the product conforms to a stated British or European standard. This assures the consumer that an acceptable quality can be expected. Goods which have been passed as satisfactory by BSI usually carry the Kitemark symbol on a swing label. This reduces the risk of someone buying a product which could be defective in some way. The CE (Con

Front 104

What are CE standards?

Back 104

The CE (Conformité Européenne) marking is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product complies with the essential requirements of the relevant European health, safety and environmental protection laws. The products must have a technical file which explains how the production standards are maintained and products with the mark are allowed to pass freely within the European Union. But the CE mark is not a measure of safety or quality.

Front 105

What is the lion mark?

Back 105

The Lion Mark – Toy Safety Logo was introduced by the British Toy and Hobby Association (BTHA) to promote high standards throughout the toy industry. The logo is put on toys that have been classified as safe for children to use. All members of the BTHA must adhere to the Code of Practice and ensure that all products conform to EN71 safety standards.

Front 106

Name some smart materials?

Back 106

• monitor body functions and administer medicines/give warnings; • maintain a personal micro-climate, eg Stomatex, Outlast; • can provide buoyancy and support, eg bodysuits for medical/physiotherapy support ; • have chromatic properties and change colour in response to specific situations; • have shape memory, eg Corpo Nove shirt which adjusts to differing temperatures; • are self-cleaning, eg nano-technology fabrics triggered by sunlight; • use biomimetics that imitate nature, eg Fastskin, Stomatex; • can generate solar power when exposed to sunlight; • can sense and track movement, eg SensFloor Smart carpets.

Front 107

Modern materials?

Back 107

• Gore-Tex • Kevlar & Nomex • Phosphorescent textiles • Reflective textiles using glass beads • Fabrics that wick moisture away from the body, eg Coolmax • Microencapsulated fibres, eg those which release scents • Fabrics which protect against bacteria, eg Purista, Chitopoly • Fabrics with electronics, eg GPS systems, • Geotextiles • Materials using Nano-technology • Microfibres

Front 108

What is a one off production system?

Back 108

The product is made by an individual or small team from start to finish, traditional methods of manufacture are used, the operators are highly skilled and use versatile equipment, haute couture is an extreme example of this

Front 109

What is batch production?

Back 109

A reasonable number of products are produced, possibly to meet seasonal demand. Production costs are considerably less that individual production

Front 110

What is mass production?

Back 110

Used to manufacture large numbers of identical products over a long period of time, products are usually not complicated, for example vests. Synchronised production: work is passed along a production line where each operator is responsible for one task.

Repetitive flow production: manufacture is divided into sub-assembly lines that each focus on one area of the process

Continual flow: used for massive volume items; the process runs 24 hours a day and is never shut down

Front 111

Natural fibres?

Back 111

Front 112

Man made fibres?

Back 112

Front 113

What is Tencel?

Back 113

A natural microfibre made from cellulose derived from wood-pulp. It is used for shirts and jeans. It has soft handle, good drape, is breathable, durable, crease resistant, easy care and biodegradable. It is absorbent and has low warmth

Front 114

What is elastane?

Back 114

Always used as a blend, used to make sportswear, it's durable, crease resistant, stretchy and easy care. Low warmth and absorbency

Front 115

Cashmere

Back 115

Produced as a staple fibre, light, lustrous, good thermal insulator, crease resistant, non-static, fire resistant, expensive, typically blended with wool, silk and polyester, expensive luxury fabric for coats and suits, luxury knitwear, luxury interior textiles

Front 116

Mohair

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Produced as staple fibres, soft, silky, luxury handle and touch, good thermal insulator, durable, hard-wearing, dust-repellent, fire resistant, expensive, typically blended with wool, cotton and silk, evening wear

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Cultivated silk

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Produced as filament fibres, fine, smooth, lustrous, soft handle, elegant drape, elastic, fairly crease-resistant, creases drop out, can absorb up to its own weight in water without feeling wet, non static because it always contains water, strong, durable, light, cool but good insulator

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Wild silk

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Silk filament fibres, coarse, rustic, uneven, thicker fibre, harsh handle, absorbent and non-static, dull lustre, dull colours

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Viscose

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Natural cellulose from wood pulp, more absorbent than cotton, non-static, naturally breathable, fine with soft handle and good drape, low warmth, lower strength than cotton, poor elasticity, dyes and prints in bright colours, biodegradable and recyclable, inexpensive to produce

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Modal

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Natural cellulose from wood pulp, produced mainly as a staple fibre, mainly used in blends, very absorbent, naturally breathable, silky, smooth, very soft handle, low warmth, lower strength than cotton, poor elasticity, dyes well, biodegradable, inexpensive

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Acetate

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Cotton cellulose and acetic acid, produced as filaments and microfibres, low absorbency, naturally breathable, prone to static, smooth, very soft handle and elegant drape, low warmth, dyes well, thermoplastic, biodegradable, inexpensive

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Rubber

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Warm, pliable, soft, antistatic, antibacterial, anti slip, sensitive to light, oils, solvents or grease, not breathable, joined by stitching or adhesives, recyclable

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Acrylic

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Sourced from petrochemicals, inexpensive, filament, low absorbency, fast drying, prone to static, good strength, crease resistant, soft wool like handle, good drape, warm, easy care, thermoplastic, non renewable

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PVC

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Sourced from petrochemicals, filament, inexpensive, strong, flexible, durable, breathable, waterproof, thermoplastic, good insulation, non renewable

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Elastane

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Sourced from petrochemicals, yarn always covered by another yarn, supple fabric with enhanced drape, body shaping, non renewable, absorbent, dyes well, easy care

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PTFE

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Sourced from petrochemicals, flexible, durable, breathable le, water repellent, doesn't dye, non renewable

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Nylon

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Sourced from petrochemicals, inexpensive, produced as filaments, staple and micro, non absorbent, prone to static, can be soft or firm, very strong, abrasion resistance, good elasticity, crease resistant, thermoplastic, can be breathable, lots of treatments

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Polyester

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Sourced from petrochemicals, most versatile, inexpensive, usually produced as staple fibres, non absorbent, prone to static, very good elasticity, crease resistant, can be breathable, can be recycled, dyes well, yellow loses strength machine washable

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What are yarns?

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A continuous length of fibres or filaments with or without a twist. All staple yarns are spun from fibres into a variety of different yarns, the thickness of a yarn will affect a fabrics weight, flexibility, handle and drape, too much twist makes in hard, too little makes it weak, staple yarns are made from fibres such as cotton, flax, wool, spun silk or cut manufactured fibres, filament yarns are made from continuous filaments

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How are staple yarns made?

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From short staple fibres, these have to be carded or combed, so that they all lay in the same direction before twisting together to form a yarn

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Why are fibres blended?

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To help reduce the cost of the fabric, to give different effects in a texture and handle of the fabric, to allow got novelty effects when the fabric is dyed, to name a fabric with specific qualities for a particular end use, to make the fabric stronger, to make it easier to care for, to enable fabric to be more crease resistant, to allow fabrics to be heat set

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How are blends achieved?

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By spinning two or more fibres together to make a yarn

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How are most fabrics made?

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Weaving or knitting yarns (non woven fabrics are made by bonding or felting fibres together)

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What are woven fabrics made up of?

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A weft and a warp, the none fraying edge is the selvedge

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What is a plain weave?

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Most used weave structure, strong firm and hard wearing, the warp and the weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss cross pattern

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What is a twill weave?

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Produces fabric with diagonal lines, which generally run bottom left to top right of the fabric face. Weaving twills in different directions produces chevron or herringbone fabrics.

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Satin weave

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Warp faced with a smooth lustre, shiny face and dull back, satin fabric depression well. Can be made from cotton, polyester/cotton, acetate, polyester or silk. Complex arrangement of warp and weft threads which allows longer float threads either across the warp or weft. The long floats mean the light falling on the yarn doesn't scatter or break up

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What are cut piles?

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Velvet has cut warp-pile on the face of the fabric. This gives a smooth rich, soft, dense and lustrous fabric. Velvet should be used in one direction only

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What is a warp knit?

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Fabric made on straight or circular knitting machines, each loop of the fabric is fed by its own separate yarn. The loops interlock vertically, along the length of the fabric. Warp knits are stretchy but do not ladder and can't be unravelled

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What is a weft knit?

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Made by a single yarn, which is fed across the width of the fabric. Weft knits are stretchy with a right and wrong side that might ladder. Weft knitting, done by hand is used to make one off, designer products. Industrial weft knitting machines produce around 90% of Jersey, rib and jacquard fabrics used for t shirts, underwear socks and knitwear

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How are non woven fabrics made?

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By bonding or felting, webs of synthetic fibres bonds together with heat or adhesives, they are cheap to produce but not as strong as woven of knitted fabrics

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Microfibre

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Woven polyester, lightweight, soft, good drape, breathable, shower proof

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Polar fleece

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Brushed polyester, warp knit, lightweight, soft, breathable, warm

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Gore-Tex

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Laminated membrane, breathable lightweight, waterproof

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Micro encapsulated

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Different micro capsules embedded in the fibres, gives off an aromatic scent, can reduce body odour

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Heat sensitive

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Thermochromatic, micro encapsulated due can change colour in response to heat

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Light sensitive

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Photochromic dyes, smart pigments change colour in response to sunlight

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What are combination fabrics?

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Fabrics can be layered and combined to improve their handle appearance or performance

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Polymers

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Textiles materials are made from natural or fibre forming polymers, a polymer is the generic name for a combination on of large molecules, made from a chain of smaller repeating chemical units called monomers

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What are natural polymers?

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These exist as short fibres, which need to be combed, lined up and twisted to make usable lengths

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What are vegetable fibres

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These are composed of the glucose polymer cellulose

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What are animal fibres

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The are composed of the protein polymer keratin

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What are regenerated natural fibres?

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These are manufactured from cellulose in wood pulp. This is dissolved in chemicals and extruded through the tiny holes in a spinneret into an acid bath, to produce fine continuous filaments or pure regenerated cellulose

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What are synthetic polymers?

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These are manufactured from petrochemicals, using the process of polymerisation to produce long chains of polymers. These are converted by solution or melted and extruded through spinnerets to form continuous filaments of synthetic fibres

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What is block polymerisation?

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Two different monomers are pre formed into blocks and then added together

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What are elastomers?

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Elastomers can be stretched and return to their original shape

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What are thermosetting polymers?

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Have cross links between the long chain molecules, they can be set with heat and cannot be softened when re heated

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What are thermoplastic polymers

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Thermoplastic polymers have long chain molecules that are not cross linked, they soften when heated and become hard again when cool

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What are physical finishes

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Heat, pressure or steam and machine processes (brushing)

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What are chemical finishes?

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Chemicals (easy care treatment)

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What are biological finishes?

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Natural enzymes (denim) biostoning

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What properties can finishing improve?

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Aesthetic, decorative, functional

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What is finishing?

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Done to improve the appearance, properties and quality of a product, it covers many different processes, some mechanical some chemical

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What is calendaring?

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Industrial equivalent of ironing, smoothes fabric and gives lustre

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What is heat setting?

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Used for thermoplastic fabrics (polyester and nylon) the fabrics are set in permanent shapes or pleats

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What are nanomaterials?

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Tiny components with at least one measurement below 100nm. Sometimes they are used as thin films or coating. Self cleaning

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What is hand dyeing?

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Fabrics are immersed in hot or cold dyes in a dye bath. It is then fixed with mordant or salt. Amount of time in the dye bath, absorbency of fibres, original fabric colour, concentration of dye effective fixative

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What is block printing?

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Metal or wooden blocks are stamped onto the fabric

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What is screen printing?

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Pattern is printed onto fabric through a stencil held in place by a screen. Each screen prints one part of the design in one colour

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What is manual flat bed screen printing?

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Done by hand, mesh stapled to a frame to make a screen, masking tape stuck on, a stencil is made, ink is poured at one end of the screen, a squeegee is used to press down and draw ink, screen is lifted then repeated

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What is industrial flat bed screen printing?

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Automated manual flat bed printing

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What is stitching?

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Produces unfinished seam

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What is fusing?

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Permanent joining two fabrics together using an adhesive

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What is heat sealing?

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Used for synthetic fibres made from thermoplastics, used to set a material into shapes

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What is off the peg manufacturer?

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Ready made garments in standard sizes