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26 Cards in this Set
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- Back
- 3rd side (hint)
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Bow Saw - for wood - sometimes called "frame saw" - for curved cuts in larger panels - cuts on the push or pull - blade tension set by winding the centre peg (which twists the string) and hooking it onto the centre bar (to stop it untwisting). |
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Crosscut saw (a "Panel" saw) - For wood - Finer teeth than rip saw - for cutting ACROSS the grain. - cuts on the push |
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Rip saw (a "Panel" saw) - For wood - Larger teeth than crosscut saw - for cutting ALONG the grain. - cuts on the push |
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Tenon saw - For wood - for general cutting & accurate joints (eg: mortice & tenon, etc.) - Usually for thinner timber as the stiffening back prevents deep cuts - bigger than a dovetail saw - cuts on the push |
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Dovetail saw (standard) - For wood - Significantly smaller than tenon saw, & finer teeth (although the handle is same size) - For precision joints, eg: dovetails - cuts on the push |
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Dovetail Saw ("Gents") - for wood - lighter to use than "standard" pattern dovetail saw |
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Mitre saw - for wood (mostly) - blade can be set to specific angles to the wood - gives fairly accurate angles as it doesn't allow you to go off line - cuts on the push |
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Keyhole saw - For wood = Narrow, tapered blade so it can go into a hole and cut a radial slot (outwards) for the "wards" on a key to pass through. - cuts on the push |
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Coping saw - For wood - For curved cuts - cuts on the pull - Often used to clear the bottom of dovetail and bridle joints (error-prone unless you're meticulous about keeping perpendicular {in 3 dimensions} to the surface). |
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Fretsaw - For wood - Like a deep coping saw - Originally for reaching into (and creating) decorative pierced work in thinner plywood (etc.) - cuts on the pull - Powered ones often (wrongly) called "jig saws", or (less wrongly) "scroll saws". |
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Pruning Bow saw - for wood, usually "green" (ie: not dried / "seasoned") - very coarse teeth - cuts on the push (mostly) - blade tensioned by the springiness of the frame. This is slackened using the lever on the end (left hand, black) |
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Hacksaw - for metal & plastics - cuts on the push - blades 10" & 12" (250 & 300mm) - number of teeth 32tpi to 10tpi for thinner/harder to thicker/softer. - blade tension set by: (1) taking up slack, (2) +3 full turns * less than that, the blade buckles & jams as you push * more than that may pull the end off the blade, so it can't be tensioned at all (it falls out of the frame) - best used with one hand at each end of the frame ("simply supported beam", rather than "cantilever", as with one hand at the handle end) |
"tpi" = teeth per inch (25mm) |
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Junior Hacksaw - for metal & plastics - cuts on the push - very fine teeth - blade tensioned by springiness of the frame - small plastic shield to protect knuckles against the end of the blade |
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Padsaw - for metal - for use where the hacksaw frame would obstruct the cut - many don't have the blade support shown here (it would obstruct the blade going through the work). - teeth can point in either direction, depending on the need (can't push too hard, as the blade will buckle). |
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Sheet saw - for use on metal or plastics - uses hacksaw blade (usually 24-32 tpi) - cuts on the push - can only cut from an edge (or a very large hole !) |
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Piercing saw - for metal, usually jewellery & finely pierced work - very fine teeth - cuts on the pull (downward in the picture) - blade tensioned by clamping both ends then straining the sliding part of the frame and clamping it. |
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Wire flexisaw - Usually for metal - Not very precise - Cuts in both directions |
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Guillotine / Bench Shears - for thinner sheet metal - tends to pull the cut off the marked out line if not "steered" correctly (it's difficult to keep on the line) - leaves a sharp edge on the underside of the cut, especially if the blades are not absolutely sharp |
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Tin snips - for hand cutting thin sheet metal - deep, narrow blades - Do NOT cut to the end of the blade, as it will twist the metal - Curved blade version can cut gentle concave curves (not tight ones) |
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Aviation snips - for hand cutting thin sheet metal - chunky blades - for cutting curves in either direction - Do NOT cut to the end of the blade, as it will twist the metal |
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Cold chisel - for cutting (mostly) thin sheet metal - (body) angled upward @ about 60deg (so the cutting edge is on the vice top), and - at 45deg to the direction of the cut along the vice top - struck with a hammer (not a mallet) for more impact power - the "waste" comes off in a curl, so can't be usefully used (except, perhaps, in art work) - the back edge of the cut can be sharp |
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Bevel Edge chisel - for wood - general purpose - the bevelled edges give sharper access to the corner of cutouts - usually wooden or alkyd handle - struck with (usually) wooden mallet (never a hammer) |
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Firmer Chisel - for wood - general purpose - a little stronger than bevel edged - usually wooden or alkyd handle - struck with (usually) wooden mallet (never a hammer) |
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Mortice Chisel - quite narrow - proportionally deeper blade, to withstand the leverage needed when cutting out "mortices"(troughs) for mortice & tenon joints - usually brass ferrule on both ends of the handle, to withstand heavy blows with a mallet. |
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Gouges - for wood - curved, for cutting hollow shapes - usually wooden or alkyd handle - struck with (usually) wooden mallet (never a hammer) |
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Carving chisels - many shapes to cutting edge, to enable awkward recesses to be cut out - usually only sharpened on the outside edge |
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