Use LEFT and RIGHT arrow keys to navigate between flashcards;
Use UP and DOWN arrow keys to flip the card;
H to show hint;
A reads text to speech;
36 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
|
The maximum diameter of a water particle orbit of a deep water wave is defined by wave |
height |
|
|
The speed of a shallow water wave varies with |
the depth of the water |
|
|
Wave height of wind waves depends on |
windspeed and duration and fetch |
|
|
Water particle orbits for a shallow water wave are |
elliptic and flatten with depth |
|
|
the restoring force of a fully developed wind wave is |
gravity |
|
|
water protected from direct wave influence behind a breakwater can be placed in motion by wave |
diffraction |
|
|
if a surface water wave has a wavelength of 200 m and a 5-second peroid, its speed is |
4000 cm/sec |
|
|
Two different wave groups with the same height travel together in the same direction. The wavelength of one group is twice as longa s the wavelength of the other group. A combined wave of extra height will be proudced |
ever other wave |
|
|
the orbital motion of a deep water wave extends to a depth equal to |
one-half the wavelength |
|
|
water transported shoreward in the surf zone is returned seward by |
rip currents |
|
|
in a standing wave, the positions where there is maximum vertical motion are called |
antinodes |
|
|
The refraction of waves tends to concentrate wave energy ______ and disperse energy _____ |
on headlands; in bays |
|
|
To navigate swift tidal currents safely, small boats need to wait for |
slack water |
|
|
the length of a tidal day for a mixed semidiurnal tide is about ____ hours |
24.8 |
|
|
Using equilibrium tidal theory, the tide may be considered a wave with a wavelength approximately |
half the circumference of the earth |
|
|
Diurnal tides are more prevalent at middle latitudes when the tide-raising bodies are |
at high declination |
|
|
Since the earth turns _____ the tide wave tends to move ____ around Earth |
Eastward; westward |
|
|
The tidal range toward the center of an ocean basin with a rotary standing tide is ______ the range at the edges of the basin |
smaller than |
|
|
the terms ebb and flood pertain to |
-Outgoing and incoming tides -the direction of the tidal current flow -B and C
|
|
|
Friction between the moving tide wave and the turning Earth acts to |
slow the rotation rate of Earth and make the tide wave move as a force wave |
|
|
The ______ tide component tends to make high tides appear about one hour later each day |
lunar |
|
|
_____ tides occur at the first quarter moon |
Neap |
|
|
Real tides in ocean basins feel the effect of the |
All of these are correct -Coriolis effect -continents -wave depth -oceans basin's standing wave |
|
|
Some oceanic basins promote rotary standing tide waves. IN the northern Hemisphere, the tide wave rotates ____ and the tidal current rotates ____ |
counterclockwise; clockwise |
|
|
A coast with fjords is classified as a(n) |
primary coast |
|
|
a low tide terrance forms |
below the beach face |
|
|
the higher berm found on a beach is formed |
during winter storm conditions |
|
|
A sand spit formed between an offshore island or rock and the mainland is called |
tombolo |
|
|
a beach in dynamic equilibrium |
gains and loses sand in equal quantities |
|
|
an estuary with strong tidal mixing and low river input |
well mixed |
|
|
Which of the following coastal engineering structures is built parallel to the shoreline? |
breakwater |
|
|
a coastal circulation cell includes |
all of these are correct - longshore transport -rip currents -onshore transport - |
|
|
High-energy waves of winter storms |
move sand from the beach out to bars
|
|
|
an example of a ria coast is |
Delaware Bay |
|
|
In a well mixed shallow estuary, the net seaward flow occurs at |
all depths |
|
|
Calculations of flushing times assume that none of the outlfowing water is recycled back into the estuary. If this assumption is not correct, the actual flushing time is ____- the calculated flushing time |
greater than |
