Milady's Esthetics Chapter 7, Basics Of Chemistry

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Chemistry

Back 1

the science that deals with the composition, structure, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different conditions

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Organic

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All living things, whether they are plants or animals, contain carbon.

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Organic Chemistry

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the study of substances that contain the element carbon

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Examples of organic substances

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Gasoline, plastics, synthetic fabrics, pesticides, and fertilizers

why? made from natural gas and oil

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Inorganic chemistry

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branch of chemistry dealing with compounds that do not contain the element carbon, but may contain the element hydrogen

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inorganic or organic: substances that are not flammable and will not burn because they don't have carbon

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inorganic

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Matter

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any substance that occupies space and has mass (weight).

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Forms of matter

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solid, liquid, gas

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everything known to exist in the universe is either made of matter or what?

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energy

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Elements

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the simplest form of chemical matter. cannot be broken down into a simpler substance without loss of identity

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How many elements are there

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90

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Atoms

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particles from which all matter is composed. It is the smallest particle of an element that still retains the property of that element.

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Atoms consist of smaller particles. What are they?

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Protons- positive electrical charge

neutrons- neutral charge

electrons- negative charge

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Molecule

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formed by joining two or more atoms chemically

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What are the 2 types of molecules

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elemental molecules

compound molecules

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Elemental Molecules

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contain two or more atoms of the same element that are united chemically.

example oxygen

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Compound molecules

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also known as compounds, are chemical combinations of two or more atoms of different elements that are united chemically

example- sodium chloride- table salt

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Solids

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one of three types of matter. they have a definite size (volume) and a definite shape.

example- ice

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Liquids

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one of three types of matter. they have a definite size but not definite shape

example- water

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Gases

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one of three types of matter. they do not have a definite size or definite shape

example- steam

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Physical Properties of Matter

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characteristics that can be determined without a chemical reaction and that do not cause a chemical change in the identity of the substance.

physical properties include color, odor, weight, density, specific gravity, melting point, boiling point, and hardness

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Chemical Properties of Matter

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characteristics that can be determined only with a chemical reaction and that cause a chemical change in the identity of the substance.

examples: rusting iron and burning wood. the iron is chemically changed to rust and the wood turns to ashes

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Physical Change

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is a change in the form or physical properties of a substance without the formation of a new substance

example- solid ice undergoes a physical change when it melts to water

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Chemical Change

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is a change in the chemical composition of a substance, in which a new substance or substances are formed having properties different from the original.

example- iron to rust

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Chemical Compounds

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a combination of two or more atoms of different elements united chemically with a fixed chemical composition, definite proportions, and distinct properties (pg165)

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Physical Mixtures

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are a combination of two or more substances that are united physically, in any proportions with combined properties

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Hydrogen

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(H) is a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas and is the lightest element known. elemental hydrogen is flammable and explosive when mixed with air

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Oxygen

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(O) the most abundant element found on earth, is colorless, odorless, tasteless gas. it comprises about 1/2 the earths crust, 1/2 or the rock and 90% of the water. one of the chief chemical characteristics of this element is its ability to support combustion

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Nitrogen

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(N) is a colorless, gaseous element. It makes up about 4/5 of the air in our atmosphere and is found chiefly in the form or ammonia and nitrates

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Air

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is the gaseous mixture that makes up the earths atmosphere. it is odorless, colorless, and generally consists of about 1 part oxygen and 4 parts nitrogen by volume.

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Water

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(H20) is the most abundant of all substances, comprising about 75% of the earths surface and about 65%of the human body.

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The most commonly used ingredient

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water

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Hydrogen Peroxide

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(H202) a chemical compound of hydrogen and oxygen, is a colorless liquid with a characteristic odor and a slightly acid taste.

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Danish biochemist Soren Sorensen invented this for measuring the acidity and alkalinity of a substance

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pH scale

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Range of the pH scale

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0-14

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A pH above 7 is alkaline or acidic?

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alkaline

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What does pH stand for

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potential hydrogen

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The higher the number on the pH scale...

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the more alkaline

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the relative degree of acidity or alkalinity

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the pH of a substance

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Ion

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an atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge

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Ionization

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causes an atom or molecule to split in two, creating a pair of ions with the opposite electrical charges.

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Anion

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an ion with a negative electrical charge

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Cation

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an ion with a positive electrical charge

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Hydroxide Ions

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an anon (negatively charged ion) with one oxygen and one hydrogen atom

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The more hydroxide ion there is in a substance, the more _____ it will be

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acidic

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The more Hydroxide ions there are in a substance, the more _____ it will be?

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alkaline

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Only products that contain ______ can have a pH?

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Water

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What pH does pure water have and why?

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neutral because it contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions. It is equal balance of 50/50.

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As acidity rises, what happens to the alkalinity?

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It lowers. As alkalinity rises, Acidity lowers as well.

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Acids

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substances that have a pH below 7.0, taste sour, and turn litmus paper from blue to red

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Alkalis

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also known as bases, have a pH above 7.0, taste bitter, and turn litmus paper from red to blue

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What is the natural pH of the skin?

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5.5. slightly acidic

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Acid Mantle

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The skin produces both sebum and sweat to create barrier on the skin's surface. It is a protective barrier against certain forms of bacteria and microorganisms.

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When the skin is exposed to extremes inch levels, what happens

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dryness, dehydration, inflammation, and even bacteria can grow

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Problems with mixing products from more than one line

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pH values can differ from line to line and might have different delivery systems within the ingredients.

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Why use products with lowest viscosity first?

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products that are heavier, such as creams, may have larger molecules, varying pH values, and could potentially block a product from penetrating into the skin.

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Acid- Alkali neutralization reactions

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occur when an acid is mixed with an alkali, also called a base, in equal proportions to neutralize each other and form water and a salt.

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Oxidation reduction

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also known as redox, is a chemical reaction in which the oxidizing agent is reduced and the reducing agent is oxidized. Its an exchange: the oxidizing agent takes oxygen and oxidizes it while the substance that lost the oxygen is reduced

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Oxidizing agent

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substance that releases oxygen

example hydrogen peroxide.

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Reduction

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is the subtraction of oxygen or the addition of hydrogen

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Redox reaction

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the chemical reaction involved in oxidation reduction

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Can oxidation reactions happen without oxygen?

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Yes. Oxidation also can occur when hydrogen is subtracted from a substance

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Oxidation

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the result of either the addition of oxygen, or the subtraction of hydrogen

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Combustion

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The rapid oxidation of a substance, accompanied by the production of heat and light.

example- lighting a match

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______ are used to stabilize skincare products by preventing oxidation that would otherwise cause a product to turn rancid and decompose

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Antioxidants

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Antioxidants prevent oxidation by _____

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neutralizing free radicals

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Free Radicals

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super oxidizers that cause an oxidation reaction and produce a new free radical in the process.

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Why are free radicals unstable?

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Because they are created by highly reactive atoms or molecules (often oxygen), free radicals are unstable.

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If left alone, free radicals will...

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create inflamation, damage DNA, and eventually cause disease and death.

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What can stop free radicals

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Antioxidants are free radical scavengers that stop the oxidation reaction from continuing.

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Solutions

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a uniform mixture of two or more mutually miscible (capable of being mixed) substances.

example- air, salt water, hydrogen peroxide

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Solute

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any substance that is dissolved by a solvent to form a slution

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Solvent

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any substance that dissolves the solute to form a solution

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Miscible liquids

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liquids are mutually soluble.

example- water and alcohol

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Immiscible liquids

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are not mutually soluble

example- water and oil

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Suspensions

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unstable mixtures of two or more immiscible substances. they contain larger particles than solutions do. the particles are large enough to be visible to the naked eye. have a tendency to separate over time.

example- oil and vinegar

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Emulsions

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mixtures of two or more immiscible substances united with the aid of an emulsifier. when stored correctly, they should last 3 years.

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Surfactants

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are used to emulsify oil and water to create an emulsion. They are able to wet the skin and emulsify oil and water

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Two parts of a surfactant molecule

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hydrophilic (water loving)

lipophilic (oil loving)

"like dissolves like" hydrophilic dissolves in water and the lipophilic end dissolves in oil

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How surfactant works

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this type of molecule dissolves in both oil and water and joins them together to form an emulsion

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Two types of emulsions used in most skin care products

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oil in water (O/W)

water in oil (W/O)

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How does a skin moisturizer emulsion work

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to apply a uniform layer of the emulsion's oil phase is deposited on the surface. the oil phase acts as an external lubricant to smooth and protect the surface of the epidermis. the water phase restores the natural moisture content of the epidermis, making the skin soft and smooth

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O/W emulsions

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often milky, free-flowing liquids, although thickeners may be added to form gels or thick creams

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Micelles

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droplets of oil

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Oil in water emulsions

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droplets of oils are dispersed in the water. they are then surrounded by surfactants with their lipophilic ends pointing in and their "heads" (hydrophilic ends) pointing out, which keeps the oil dispersed in water. Water is the continuous or external phase and oil is the discontinuous or internal phase. Salons and spas primarily use o/W emulsions

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Water in Oil emulsions

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droplets of water are dispersed in oil. The droplets of water (inverse micelles) are surrounded by surfactants with their "heads" (hydrophilic ends) pointing in and their "tails"( lipophilic ends) pointing out. In W/O emulsions, the oil is the continuous or external phase and the water is the discontinuous or internal phase.