Fashion History

Front 1

1900-1919

Name three designers seen in the lecture that were significant to turn of the century fashion.

Back 1

1. Jacques Doucet

2. Frederic Worth

3. Mariano Fortuny

Front 2

1900-1919

What accessory did women wear that is so characteristic of thisperiod?

Back 2

Hat

Front 3

1900-1919

Name two artistic movements happening at this time thatinfluenced fashion designers creating for women’s dress.

Back 3

1. Art Nouveau2. Orientalism

Front 4

1900-1919

What hand-made material made originally in Ireland and Italy isused in women’s garments at this time?

Back 4

Lace

Front 5

1900-1919

Can you name two fashion magazines from this era that arementioned in the lecture?

Back 5

1. Les Modes

2. Le Journal des Dames

3. Vogue

Front 6

1900-1919

What garment pushed the evolution of the tailor-made?

Back 6

The riding habit

Front 7

1900-1919

What part of the world was influencing Western fashion between1900-1919?

Back 7

The orient

Front 8

1900-1919

What is a fashion plate?

Back 8

An illustration of a garment

Front 9

1900-1919

What important fashion movement began at this time?

Back 9

Haute couture

Front 10

1900-1919

What was the ideal female body type at the turn of the century?

Back 10

A mature and womanly body shape; hourglass, S-bend, ‘TheGrecian’ figure.

Front 11

1900-1919

Define gabardine.

Back 11

A smooth durable twill-woven cloth, typically of worsted or cotton.

Front 12

1900-1919

What is damask?

Back 12

A firm lustrous fabric (as of linen, cotton, silk, or rayon) made withflat patterns in a satin weave on a plain-woven ground on jacquardlooms

Front 13

1900-1919

Brocade?

Back 13

Fabric woven with an elaborate design especially one having araised overall pattern

Front 14

1900-1919

What did Poiret do that is so important during this period?

Back 14

Liberated women from the corset

Front 15

1900-1919

What does worsted refer to?

Back 15

Wool

Front 16

1900-1919

Can you name three types of ladies’ dress that were mentioned inthe lecture?

Back 16

1. Day Wear

2. Formal Wear

3. Tea Gown

Front 17

1920-1929

Where did department stores originate?

Back 17

France

Front 18

1920-1929

What style of hat was popular?

Back 18

Cloche

Front 19

1920-1929

Describe flapper style

Back 19

The ‘flapper’ girl is a term coined to describe young girls who looked called‘garçonne’ (‘little boy’). They wound their chests with strips of cloth inorder to flatten it, the waist lines dropped to the hipline, they wore stockingsmade of rayon and in 1923 started wearing garter belts (to keep the stockingup).

-Flappers broke away from the Victorian image of womanhood. Theydropped the corsets, chopped their hair, dropped layers of clothing toincrease ease of movement, wore make-up, created the concept of dating,and became a sexual person. They created what many consider the ‘new’ or‘modern’ woman.

Front 20

1920-1929

Who perfected the bias cut?

Back 20

Madelaine Vionnet

Front 21

1930-1945

Name three designers seen in the lecture that were significant tothe 1930-1945 era

Back 21

1. Elsa Schiaparelli

2. Madeleine Vionnet

3. Coco (Gabrielle) Chanel

Front 22

1930-1945

Who was Coco Chanel’s rival?

Back 22

Elsa Schiaparelli

Front 23

1930-1945

What transformation did men’s neckties experience?

Back 23

Got wider, bold prints

Front 24

1930-1945

Why was Richard Avedon so important to fashion photography?Did he change any past traditions up until this time?

Back 24

He changed the mood of fashion photography. He challenged theposed tradition of art nouveau that portrayed the model like astatue and introduced a more natural stance.

Front 25

1930-1945

What changes can be observed in the bathing costume?

Back 25

Sunbathing prompted greater exposure or the skin to sunlight asthe way to a healthier body. Thus the overskirt of the bathingcostume was reduced to almost nothing allowing more skinexposure. The armholes were enlarged and the décolletage wasmuch deeper. Finally, the 1st backless bathing costume appeared,although no more backless than the evening dress of the sameperiod.

Front 26

1930-1945

In the 1930s which tricks of the couturier were employed to givethe impression of increased height?

Back 26

Hat and hairdos were usedDresses usually came to about 10 inches above the groundEvening dresses reached the toes

Front 27

1930-1945

A new focus of erotic interest appears in the early ‘30s. What partof the body is it?

Back 27

The emphasis shifted from the legs to dresses designed to be seenfrom the back. Even day dresses had a slit up the back, and the skirt was drawn tightly over the hips as to reveal, perhaps for thefirst time in history, the shape of the buttocks.

Front 28

1930-1945

What women’s dress design was the designer Alix also known asMadame Grés, famous for?

Back 28

Grecian column gown

Front 29

How did the restrictions in access to materials as well as theeconomic considerations of WWII create changes in both women’sand men’s fashion (1939-1945)?

Back 29

Men’s fashion became more informal (they no longer wore dinnerjackets) and women’s evening dresses grew shorter. Women didnot have access to silk for stockings so drew a line down their legsto imitate silk stocking seams. Utility clothes were introduced in1941. Scarves and turbans were used instead of hats in women’sdress.

Front 30

Early cigarette ads, targeting women who may have been concerned withtheir lipstick cited what characteristic?

Back 30

Ivory tips to protect the lips

Front 31

In the 1950s the male models in the Malboro campaign always hadwhat trademark?

Back 31

A tattoo on the back of his hand

Front 32

What measure did Paris take at the end of WWII to reestablishitself as the epicenter of fashion?

Back 32

50 couture houses contributed to a traveling exhibition calledThéâtre de la Mode that attracted thousands of visitors in Europeand America.

Front 33

Who was Claire McCardell (1905-1958)?

Back 33

An American fashion designer known for her functional, affordable,stylish women’s clothing. She was a pivotal figure in Americanready-to-wear clothing. An example of this is her Shirtwaister dress.

Front 34

What was the new look for women’s fashion in the 1950s and who is credited with this 'new look'?

Back 34

A curvaceous feminine silhouette; rounded shoulders, long bell-shapedskirts with small waists (A line) and Dior.

Front 35

What was Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature colour? (50s)

Back 35

Shocking pink

Front 36

Which fashion designer had the reputation of producing severeelegance, was highly experimental and had a gift for dramatic colour,especially black? (50s)

Back 36

Balenciaga

Front 37

What was the designer Jacques Fath known for? (50s)

Back 37

Striking evening wear

-Complex cutting techniques

-Insertions of contrasting fabrics

-Elaborate trimming

Front 38

What concept did the artist Ellsworth Kelly introduce whendesigning a woman’s dress in the same manner as one of hisabstract paintings? (50s)

Back 38

He marked clothing as an occupation of space. He created a visualschema intervening in the environment.

Front 39

What element of men’s fashion became prominent in the 1950s?

Back 39

The gray suit as the beginning of a post-WWII culture built onbusiness

Front 40

How would you describe men’s ties in the 1950s?

Back 40

Skinny

Front 41

What piece of clothing became a symbol for teenage rebellion?

Back 41

Blue jeans

Front 42

The Teddy Boy look that emerged out of Britain was inspired bywhich previous fashion style?

Back 42

Dandies

Front 43

What image of women is constructed in fashion magazines such asVOGUE at the beginning of the 1960s?

Back 43

GLAMOUR; femme d’intérieur, unaggressive, impeccable withcarefully coordinated accessories

Front 44

What represented the break with the old world for boys, or forgirls?

Back 44

For boys: long hair

For girls: mini-skirts

Front 45

Who invented the mini skirt?

Back 45

Mary Quant

Front 46

What is a Dandy? (60s)

Back 46

A beau or gallant man who places particular importance uponphysical appearance, refine language, and leisurely hobbies,pursued with the appearance of non-chalance in a cult of self.It can also be seen as a political protestation against the rise ofleveling, egalitarian principles.

Front 47

What was the Peacock Revolution? (60s)

Back 47

men wearing bold styles and colours

Front 48

Who exemplified the Peacock look? (60s)

Back 48

Patrick Lichfield (Aristocrat and fashion photographer)

Front 49

What military influence inspired a women’s hairstyle of the period? (60s)

Back 49

The Beehive hairdo for women was inspired by the B52 bomberplanes (resembling the nose cone)

-It was made popular by the girl group The Ronettes in Chicago

Front 50

Name two fashion models that were icons of the ‘60s

Back 50

Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton

Front 51

What designer used unconventional materials such as plastics, foil,and sequin sheeting in their clothes and created paper ‘thowaways’and making garments from paper that sprouted seedlings whenwatered?

Back 51

Betsey Johnson

Front 52

In the 60s, fashion became a medium for expressing concepts,ideas and political ideals. Name a designer shown in the lecturewho does this.

Back 52

Yves St-Laurent:Cocktail Dress after Mondrian, 1965Wool Jersey Mondrian Tunic Dress, 1965Evening Dress after Tom Wesselman, 1966

His borrowing on elements in art allowed fashion to becomeconceptual. By treating dresses like canvases, he made cheapercopies of the Mondrian concept for the mass market for example.

Front 53

What was the conk hairstyle for me? (60s)

Back 53

It is the process of chemically straightening the hair of black men inthe tradition of white men.

Front 54

The 1960s constructed new predicates for fashion and allowed it tobecome a principal art of our time. Steering away from couture itsought to become a market for lifestyle. What directs fashion?

Back 54

Fashion and visual culture are directed not by an upper class butby the media. The freedom of fashion gained in the 1960s is guidedby democracy, energized by novelty, and will always be pluralistic,in a democratic way.

Front 55

What did Sheena Matheikson do to support Indian children’s education in 2009?

Back 55

The uniform project

Front 56

Can you give an example of a fashion sub-culture that streamed its way intopop-culture?

Back 56

NYC drag balls in 80s

Front 57

What Amercian artist merges dance and textiles through performance?

Back 57

Nick Cave

Front 58

Can you cite an example of fashion performance that clearly speaks to the concerns of one group?

Back 58

Punks

Front 59

Which designer’s work is focused on movement in her/his collections of the late1980s?

Back 59

Issey Miyake

Front 60

In the early work of Issey Miyake, the designer wrapped the moving body in asingle length of fabric. What cultural significance did this have?

Back 60

The Japanese see an uncut length of fabric that creates drapes as ma, (roughlytranslated as ‘space’) and never consider it illegitimate. This is turn causedpeople to question what clothes themselves were.

Front 61

What garment was appropriated by the LGBT community, in the 1970s, as asymbol of gay macho?

Back 61

The kilt

Front 62

When looking at platform shoes, you were shown Vivienne Westwood’s producedthe 1993 mock-crocodile 12-inch Blue ‘Staggerer’ shoe. Can you speak to what itrepresents?

Back 62

Westwood said: "Shoes must have very high heels and platforms to put women'sbeauty on a pedestal."Joanna Hashagen, keeper of textiles at the Bowes Museum where they were partof an exhibition, said "When you see them, you see they are sculptures, they areworks of art in themselves." She goes on to say they are "works of art inthemselves".

Front 63

Which designer worked with Madonna on numerous projectsand produced her infamous cone bra for her 1990 Blond AmbitionTour?

Back 63

Jean Paul Gaulthier

Front 64

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s body of work is renown for whichcharacteristics?

Back 64

-Technical virtuosity and skill

-Multicultural references

-Multisexual references

-Hybrid references

-Gender transgressions

-Choice of unusual beauty in his models

Front 65

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s states “Ethnicity is part of my workdefinitely.” Can you name two of his collections where this isapparent?

Back 65

1. Chic Rabbis Collection, 1993

2. The Great Journey Collection, 1994

Front 66

Which designer was coined l’enfant terrible of the fashionworld?

Back 66

McQueen

Front 67

Which designer 1996 collection presented a fearfulrepresentation of the femme fatale?

Back 67

McQueen

Front 68

The ‘wabisabi’ (aesthetic of the incomplete) can be found inthe work of which designer?

Back 68

The Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons

Front 69

What fashion trend was deemed the last movement that wasinspired by music or an art form by Daphne Guinness in the early1990’s and who ushered it in?

Back 69

Grunge by Kurt Cobain, the lead singer of the rock band Nirvanaand his wife Courtney Love