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269 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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What were sumptuary laws? |
1387-1597 dictated garment styles/materials/colors by each rank in society maintained social order |
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TUDOR codpiece1537 biggest in 1550 |
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TUDOR English hood angular demure conservative |
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TUDOR French hood round feminine revealing Anne Boleyn |
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TUDOR conical farthingale adopted in 1540s brought by Catherine of Aragon |
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TUDOR wheel farthingale 1600 Princess Elizabeth much more fabric used |
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TUDOR foresleeves matched forepart |
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TUDOR forepart one small piece of fabric |
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TUDOR trumpet sleeves |
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knitted/woven stockings |
1561: Elizabeth I received first silk knitted stockings 1577: stopped wearing woven stockings worn above or below knee |
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garter |
worn around left calf dark blue Order of the Garter |
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kerchief |
worn under hats/hoods 1555 |
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1559 ermine tails used in fur symbol of wealth visual reminder to people |
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1550-1600 doublet short/close-fitting padded |
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slashing late 15th century cutting long slits and pulling under chemise through |
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panes long and vertical |
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trunk hose covering just the trunk of the body (short) second half of 1500s worn with long, tight-fitting full hose |
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full breeches |
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buff jerkin buffalo leather worn over doublet |
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peascod belly similar to pigeon-chest dresses of the 20s |
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1537 Henry VIII Hans Holbein the Younger Walker Art Gallery |
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1530-1535 Henry VIII Joos van Cleve Royal Collection Hampton Court Palace |
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1550-1599 Catherine of Aragon The British School Royal Collection |
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1539 Portrait of a Lady, perhaps Katherine Howard Hans Holbein the Younger Royal Collection |
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1546 Elizabeth I when a Princess William Scrots Royal Collection |
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1569 Archduke Charles II with a view of Graz Unknown Artist Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienne |
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1585 Ermine Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I Nicholas Hilliard Hatfield House |
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1592 Queen Elizabeth I The Ditchley Portrait Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger National Portrait Gallery |
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1577 Sir Martin Frobisher Cornelis Ketel Bodleian Library University of Oxford |
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1579 John Smythe of Ostenhanger Kent Cornelis Ketel Yale Center for British Art |
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1586 Sir Henry Unton The British School Tate Modern |
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1588 Sir Walter Ralegh Unknown English artist National Portrait Gallery |
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1590-1595 A Young Man Seated Under a Tree Isaac Oliver Royal Collection |
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pomander jewelry containing fragrant aromatic substances hung from neck/skirt |
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wooden busk |
a piece of wood placed down the center front of the dress |
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wired rebato metal collar frame under lace and covered with silk |
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scalloped edge |
garment never altered |
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pinked fabric designs in cloth by cutting |
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indian gowns |
imported from asia comfortable for the home |
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garter robes order of the garter elite group of people to the sovereign |
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aglet |
metal fastening on the bottom of ribbons to prevent fraying |
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virago sleeves panes gathered by ribbons at elbows big puffs |
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spangles |
sequins |
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standing collar wired or starched |
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falling collar |
linen edged with bobbin lace tassels of knotted linen replaced the ruff |
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court dwarf |
ex: jeffrey hudson exotic thing to have |
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love lock asymmetrical haircut |
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stomacher decorative triangular panel filled gap between open bodice edges |
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black velvet face mask protected face from the sun often tied to a stick |
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muff |
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mantle |
long coat |
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rosettes decorative elements found on dresses or more often shoes |
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Cavalier/Royalist/Catholic |
supported King Charles I |
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Roundhead/Parliamentarians/Protestant |
supported Oliver Cromwell |
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petticoat filled out the dress |
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petticoat breeches |
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1650-1660 mules silk worn by men and women |
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bodice |
separate from the skirt |
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whale bone |
constructed the corset |
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corset/stays |
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gussets |
square or diamond shaped pieces of fabric sewn in under the arm or crotch allowed for more range of motion |
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1605 The Gunpowder Plot Conspirators Crispijn de Passe the Elder engraving National Portrait Gallery |
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1605 Henry, Prince of Wales with Robert Devereux, 3rd Earl of Essex in the Hunting Field Robert Peake The Royal Collection Windsor Castle |
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1614 Anne of Denmark Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger The Royal Collection |
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1609 Princess Elizabeth of Brunswick-Wolfenbuttel, later Duchess of Saxe-Altenberg Jacob van Doort Royal Collection |
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1620 Portrait of a Woman The British School Royal Collection |
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1590-1600 Portrait of an Unknown Woman Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger The Royal Collection |
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1621 King James I of England and VI of Scotland Daniel Mytens National Portrait Gallery |
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1616 George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham William Larkin National Portrait Gallery |
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1623 Portrait of William Shakespeare Martin Droeshout British Museum |
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1624 Portrait of a Lady Cornelius Johnson The Royal Collection |
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1630 Lady Bowes The British School Royal Collection |
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1632 Charles I, Henrietta Maria & Charles, Prince of Wales, later Charles II Hendrick Pot The Royal Collection |
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1631-32 Charles I and Henrietta Maria with their two eldest children, Prince Charles and Princess Mary Anthony van Dyck The Royal Collection |
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1630-32 Charles I and Henrietta Maria Departing for the Chase Daniel Mytens The Royal Collection |
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1628-30 Jeffrey Hudson Daniel Mytens The Royal Collection |
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1632 Queen Henrietta Maria Anthony van Dyck The Royal Collection |
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1632 Charles I and Henrietta Maria Daniel Mytens The Royal Collection |
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1635 Charles I Anthony van Dyck The Royal Collection |
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1641 Agatha Bas Rembrandt van Rijn The Royal Collection |
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1643 Winter Wenceslaus Hollar The Royal Collection |
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1649 Oliver Cromwell Robert Walker National Portrait Gallery |
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1645 King Charles I and Sir Edward Walker Unknown artist |
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1660 Charles II Dancing at a Ball at Court Hieronymus Janssens |
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1668-70 The Game of "Lady, Come into the Garden" Godfried Schalcken |
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1675-80 Charles II Presented with a Pineapple The British School |
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bicorn hat |
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tricorn hat |
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The Calico Acts |
1690-1721 banned import of textiles into England restricted sale of most cotton textiles English East India Company imported exotic textiles from around the world into England |
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1746 Dress Act |
made wearing Highland Dress including tartan or a kilt illegal in Scotland enforced in an attempt to bring warrior clans under government control |
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18th century pockets tied into dress |
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18th century court mantua open-fronted silk/fine wool gown |
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French Huguenots |
French protestants who emigrated to Britain skilled silk weavers settled in Spitalfields |
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Spitalfields silk |
skilled silkweavers from France manufactured large quantities of silk |
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1730-80 Watteau/sack back gown called 'la robe a la francaise' |
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robe a la polonaise popular from 1770s skirt pulled up with rings to reveal petticoat inspired by Polish national costume |
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pet-en-l'air skirt with shorter sack-back jacket |
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18th century typical male dress knee breeches long waistcoat knee length full-skirted coat |
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water power vs steam power |
1760 = industrial revolution mechanised cotton spinning power loom cotton gin faster manufacturing of clothing faster transport of goods |
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padded hair roll/frame/pouf |
1770s derived from 18th century France popularized by Marie Antoinette heavily decorated returned as the "beehive" in later centuries |
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1760s riding habit |
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1743 Marriage A-la-Mode: 2, The Tete a Tete William Hogarth The National Gallery |
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1750 Mr. and Mrs. Robert Andrews Thomas Gainsborough The National Gallery |
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1752 John Plampin Thomas Gainsborough The National Gallery |
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1721 Gersaint's Shop Sign Jean-Antoine Watteau Charlottenburg Palace |
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1753 Portrait of Eleanor Frances Dixie, daughter of Wolstan Dixie, 4th Baronet Henry Pickering |
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1768 Augustus John, Third Earl of Bristol Thomas Gainsborough |
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1779 Lady Elizabeth Murray and Dido Elizabeth Murray Johann Zoffany Scone Palace |
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1776 Lady Worsley Joshua Reynolds Harewood House |
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1770 Mary Gainsborough, Daughter of the Artist Thomas Gainsborough |
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1777 Portrait of a Lady in Blue Thomas Gainsborough The Hermitage |
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1785 Mr. and Mrs. William Hallett, The Morning Walk Thomas Gainsborough The National Gallery |
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1794 The British Plenty Henry Singleton and Charles Knight The National Maritime Museum |
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1799 Rear-Admiral Sir Horatio Nelson Lemuel Francis Abbott The National Maritime Museum |
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empire waist |
sits right under the bust Regency Era 1815 = peak of this waistline |
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bonnet |
worn at all times outside different bonnets for married women (worn inside) |
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gigot sleeves 1824-36 French = back leg of animal "lamb of mutton" sleeve |
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imbecile sleeves |
long, sheer oversleeves over puffed sleeves |
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sleeve plumpers undergarment to push out sleeves |
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fashion plate |
an illustration demonstrating highlights of contemporary fashionable styles of clothing |
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ostrich plumes |
19th century accessory |
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corkscrew curls more elaborate hairstyles |
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morning dress |
dress worn in the home plain and relatively comfortable long sleeves high neckline |
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evening dress |
dress for formal dinners, concerts, parties low necklines short sleeves decoration colorful emphasize wealth |
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shirring |
late 1830s tightly gathered fabric |
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Honiton lace depicts nature intricate from Devon |
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sailor suit 1846 Victoria dress son in mini sailor suit popularized the look |
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tiered skirt |
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bloomers 1851 "bloomer craze" Elizabeth smith miller wore pantaloons to Amelia Bloomer's house dress reform |
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steel cage crinoline 1860s 1865 = skirt volume at its widest 1856 = first British patent for metal crinoline (skeleton petticoat) |
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aniline dyes |
purple 1856 first synthetic organic chemical dye William Henry Perkin |
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satin slippers 1850s |
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tweed |
1901-1910 made popular by Albert Edward |
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dinner jacket satin lapels alternative to tails |
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white tie full evening dress black tails high trousers white waistcoat white bowtie |
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Homburg hat 1901-1910 popularized by Albert Edward |
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Norfolk jacket 1901-1910 Albert Edward loose/belted/single breasted/box pleats on front and back |
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white flannel |
1860 "correct" for cricket and boating |
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straw sennet hat 1872 influenced by sailors |
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seaside dress |
bodice and overskirt blue and white = most popular more popular due to trains and easy access to the sea |
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bustle |
1865 = skirt volume moved to the back 1873 = flat front with back bustle bustle disappears by the end of the decade |
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princess seams 1884 influenced by Princess Alexandra |
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bathing costumes |
blouse and trousers naval ornamented |
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artistic dress |
loose fit plain, muted fabrics natural dyes Oscar Wilde |
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dress reform |
1851 focused on health |
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athletic dress |
1873 = invention of lawn tennis |
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aesthetic dress |
similar to artistic rejected moral/social goals liberate fashion = flowing and draped enhanced natural beauty of female shape |
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Bloomer craze of 1851 |
Elizabeth Smith Miller wore pantaloons to Amelia Bloomer's house |
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The Rational Dress Society |
Against: corsets/high heels/narrow-toed shoes/heavy skirts advocated divided skirts - dresses with tabs at bottom - tied to form bloomers sold boneless stays promoted fashion that did not deform |
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Healthy and Artistic Dress Union |
focused on healthy and artistic aspects of modern dress 1893-94 |
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leg-o'-mutton sleeves 1893 similar to the gigot sleeves (1830s) |
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a line skirts |
1898 |
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Gibson Girl |
1890s personification of feminine ideals full chest low neckline masses of hair |
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pinafore |
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1797 Mary Wollstonecraft John Opie National Portrait Gallery |
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1815 An Unknown Man with his Dog William Owen Yale Centre for British Art |
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1824 Victoria, Duchess of Kent with Princess Victoria Henry Bone The Royal Collection |
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1833 Victoria with her spaniel Dash George Hayter The Royal Collection |
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1834 The Brontë Sisters Patrick Branwell Brontë National Portrait Gallery |
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1838 Queen Victoria Presiding at her First Council Sir David Wilkie The Royal Collection |
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1842 The Young Queen Victoria Franz Xaver Winterhalter Osborne House |
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1843 Queen Victoria Franz Xaver Winterhalter Buckingham Palace |
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1846 King Edward VII, when Albert Edward, Prince of Wales Franz Xaver Winterhalter The Royal Collection |
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1874 The Ball on Shipboard James Tissot Tate Collection |
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1882 Portrait of Artist's Sister-In-Law Arthur Hacker |
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1882 A Game of Tennis George Goodwin Kilburne |
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1885 A Rally John Lavery Glasgow Museums |
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1885 Tennis Players Horace Henry Cauty |
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1893 The Summer Shower Edith Hayllar |
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1882 Mrs. Luke Ionides William Blake Richmond V&A |
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1893-95 Portrait of Lady Windsor Sir Edward Coley Burne-Jones |
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1876 The Gallery of HMS Calcutta in Portsmouth James Tissot Tate Modern Museum |
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1881 The Private View at the Royal Academy William Powell Frith |
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1883 The Home Quartette: Mrs Vernon Lushington and her children Arthur Hughes |
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tea gown |
worn for informal entertaining in the comfort of one's home |
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top hat early 1900s worn with formal morning dress |
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bowler hat 1849 = designed worn with informal lounge suit |
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morning coat tailcoat = cut away on curving line from front to back single breasted similar to a riding coat daywear less formal than frock coat dressy yet informal |
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lounge suits 3 piece worn with bowler hat jackets = narrow/small high lapels rounded edged collars modern knotted ties |
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dinner jackets worn if having dinner at home or at men's club worn with white shirt and dark tie emerged into the "tuxedo" |
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frock coat double breasted, knee length, dark wool worn on formal morning occasions |
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dusters light, loose-fitting long coat light colored canvas worn to protect clothes when riding in motor car |
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s-bend corset 1900s-1910s forces hips back and chest forward puffed pigeon chest |
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girdle |
created rigid controlled figure crucial later with Dior's New Look covered stomach and went down thighs |
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pouter pigeon bodice 1901 similar to pigeon chest doublets (1577) worn with trumpet skirt |
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trumpet skirt middle class staple = blouse and trumpet skirt |
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patch pockets |
pockets on the outside of men's jackets and coats with buttons holding down |
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cutaway |
way of describing cut of coats from the front to the back creating a similar effect to tails |
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boutonniere |
flowers worn on lapel often put in the button hole men had silver holders pinned to lapel |
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pocket square |
worn in men's pockets way of participating in decorative fashion |
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hobble skirt 1905-1914 Paul Poiret |
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1900 The Honorable Mrs Charles Russell John Singer Sargent |
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1903 Robert Stephenson Smyth Baden-Powell, 1st Baron Baden-Powell Sir Hubert von Herkomer National Portrait Gallery |
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1905 Portrait of Elizabeth Wharton Drexel Giovanni Boldini The Elms |
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1905 Miss Eden John Singer Sargent |
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1909 Dame Christabel Pankhurst Ethel Wright National Portrait Gallery * Pankhurst is figurehead for suffragette movement |
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tubular, boyish |
1920s womens dress silhouette waistlines dropped hems rose full corsets disappeared |
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fair isle sweater 1920s-30s brought back from Scotland |
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1920s bobbed hair finger wave |
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King Tutankhamun 1922 |
tomb of King Tut discovered fashion influenced by Egyptian design style |
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eton crop 1926-27 Josephine Baker popularized |
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jersey fabric |
1916 Chanel began designing with jersey |
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suntan |
1930s made fashionable in 1923 by Chanel new words glamorous to go to beach and get a tan |
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little black dress |
1926 introduced by Chanel |
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beach pajamas 1920s Chanel popularized worn over swinsuits influenced by trans-atlantic travel women wore knitted swimsuits |
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androgyny |
women wore styles with masculine cuts short hair freedom for women 1920s-30s |
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sportswear |
popularized in the 20s |
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bias cut dress 1930s fashion influenced by Hollywood glamour hugged body |
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1930s neckline ornamentation attention on the upper half draw eyes up to the shoulders |
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slim line dresses 1930s waistline in normal position |
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sleeve caps |
1930s narrow hips and wide shoulders |
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Paris Exhibition of 1925 |
promoted Art Deco dedicated to the display of modern decorative arts marked high point of first phase of Art Deco |
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art deco textiles |
1920s repetitive geometric prints |
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surrealist fashion |
Elsa Schiaparelli Wallis Simpson wore lobster dress |
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1921 Prince of Wales John Saint-Helier Lander |
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1927 Edward, Prince of Wales, Captain of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews William Orpen |
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1923 The Fair-Isle Jumper Stanley Cursiter |
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1918 Radclyffe Hall (Marguerite Antonia Radclyffe-Hall) Charles Buchel National Portrait Gallery * woman |
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1925 Dame Ethel Walker Ethel Walker National Portrait Gallery |
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1931 Portrait of a Young Girl in a Green Dress Tamara de Lempicka Musée national d'art moderne Paris |
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The Ministry of Information |
department created at end of WWI located at Senate House responsible for publicity and propaganda |
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The Board of Trade |
1940 controlled what could be bought/sold items rationed due to loss of importing/exporting |
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Make Do and mend |
pamphlet issued by Ministry of Information housewives tips to be frugal and stylish with harsh rationing |
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Civilian Clothing Order of 1941 "double cheese logo" in effect until 1952 clothing had to be made from utility material major British designers worked with government to design fashionable utility garments |
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Utility Scheme in February 1942 |
forced simplistic fashion |
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clothing austerity |
advocated: turbans/snoods/headscarves shorter skirts rope-soled shoes and wedges |
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clothing coupons |
allotted amount of coupons to use on clothing same for everyone still could distinguish classes items lasted longer because stronger fabric |
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Women's Royal Naval Service (WRNS) |
wore military occupational uniform known as the sexiest/ best-fitting uniform given nude stockings |
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Land Army girls |
girls demanded equal pay against ATS |
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Eisenhower jacket ('Ike' jacket) developed in WWII waist length (shortened due to fabric rationing) |
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blackout |
August 1939 = blackout introduced September 1944 = dim-out introduced 1945 = full light resumed |
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glow in the dark corsages/collars |
blackout collar = large white collar to be seen in the pitch black promoted wearing white 1940 = glowing corsages |
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gas mask handbag wore everyday |
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trouser cuff (turn ups) |
signified elegance (20s and 30s) 1942 = prohibited in WWII to save fabric |
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Operation Pied Piper |
September 1 1939 evacuation of civilians during WWII moved mostly children to areas of lesser risk relocated more than 3.5 million people |
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rabbit fur processing (for hats) |
used the fur from rabbits used for eating processed the fur for really nice felt hats |
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headscarves, turbans, snoods |
1943 women going hatless wore these different head accessories |
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rope soled shoes and wedges chunky, rational |
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shorter skirts |
1940s fabric restrictions |
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siren suit (boiler suit) Winston Churchill always wore mechanic uniform most classes owned a siren suit wore over clothes for long hours in dark hiding |
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small print repeats |
easier to use the fabric than engineered prints more efficient to pattern cut embroidery not allowed with austerity laws |
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The New Look of 1947 |
Dior drastic femininity freedom from war restrictions dramatic silhouettes |
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zoot suit 1940s associated with young working class black/hispanic/filipino long and baggy |
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Teddy Boys 1952 Neo-Edwardian suits working class evoked Edwardian period (1901-1910) |
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1944 Anna Zinkeisen Anna Katrina Zinkeisen National Portrait Gallery |
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1941 Four young ladies enjoy a stroll Imperial War Museum |
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propaganda poster Women's Land Army = 1939 |
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propaganda poster ww2 |
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Mods |
Modernists Jazz fans similar to Teddy Boys Italian scooters sharp dress |
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Rockers |
leather jackets denim Elvis inspired older than Mods |
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youth subcultures |
often violent or troublesome unified styles Teddy Boys/Rockers/Mods |
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youth movement |
"Youth quake" marketing to young consumers prior to 1960s kids wanted to look like parents now style all their own |
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Chelsea boots 1960s credited to Queen Victoria's shoemaker Charles Goodyear = vulcanised rubber (soles) |
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gusset |
triangular piece of fabric inserted into seam to add width to tight-fitting clothing |
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Mary Quant |
Swinging London mini skirts hot pants colored tights encouraged youth to treat fashion as a game early 60s = Quant one of 2 designers offering youthful clothes |
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Vidal Sassoon |
opened salon in 1954 designed angular modern hairstyles 1963 = bob cut recreation |
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Swinging London youth phenomenon emphasized new and modern |
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60s miniskirts Mary Quant |
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Twiggy model child-like androgynous look |
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Carnaby Street |
1960s = hub of independent fashion boutiques coolest destination associated with Swinging London 1973 = government pedestrianised the street |
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Hippie movement |
peace movement hippie fashion culture flower power vietnam war JFK = assassinated 1963 bell bottoms tie dye |
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Laura Ashley |
1970s prairie inspired |
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Margaret Thatcher |
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fabric innovations 1970s |
polyester lurex PVC |
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1962 Harold Pinter Cecil Beaton National Portrait Gallery |
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1963 The Beatles Harry Hammond National Portrait Gallery |
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1966 Twiggy Barry Lategan National Portrait Gallery |
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1969 The Beatles crossing Abbey Road album cover image |
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1979 Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher enters office at 10 Downing Street |
