Chapter 18 Chemical Services

Front 1

Rods, __, a waving lotion, and neutralizer are all used for permanent waving

Back 1

End wraps

Front 2

A soft-curl perm is also called a _

Back 2

Reformation curl

Front 3

Relaxing cream, __ or neutralizing shampoo, and conditioning product are all used for the relaxing process.

Back 3

Neutralizer

Front 4

The cuticle is the tough, outermost layer that __

Back 4

Protects the hair from damage

Front 5

Keratin is composed of __ polypeptide chains that make up the cortex of the hair.

Back 5

Millions

Front 6

__ types of cross-bonds hold together polypeptide chains

Back 6

3

Front 7

Cystine is altered slightly to become __ during chemical texture services.

Back 7

Cysteine

Front 8

Neutralization reforms the __ cross bonds in the cortical layer.

Back 8

Hydrogen and sulfur

Front 9

The rearranger __ during a reformation curl.

Back 9

Softens and breaks the internal hair structure

Front 10

The waving lotion __ during permanent waving.

Back 10

Softens and breaks the internal hair structure

Front 11

In a penmanship wave, waving lotion produces the __ process

Back 11

Chemical

Front 12

the neutralizer neutralizes any remaining waving lotion in the hair and re-bonds the newly arranged __ bonds through a process called oxidation

Back 12

Disulfide

Front 13

_ is the active ingredient in both the rearranger and the waving lotion.

Back 13

Ammonium Thioglycolate

Front 14

Lanthionization would most likely occur at _ pH

Back 14

11.0 - 13.5

Front 15

Lanthionization occurs as the __ bonds ate converted to lanthionine bonds.

Back 15

Disulfide

Front 16

When consulting about chemical texture services, discuss the clients __

Back 16

Previous experience with chemical services

Front 17

__ should be recorded on the client record card.

Back 17

Information learned during the consultation

Front 18

Analyze the client's scalp __

Back 18

Before proceeding with any chemical texture service.

Front 19

The hair's porosity, __, length, and direction of the hair growth should be considered during hair analysis.

Back 19

Texture, elasticity, density, (all answers are correct)

Front 20

Porous hair has a _

Back 20

Raised cuticle

Front 21

Porosity is tested using hair from _ different areas

Back 21

3

Front 22

When testing porosity, if the fingers __, the hair is resistant.

Back 22

Form ruffles or does not slide easily

Front 23

The diameter of a single strand determines the hair's _

Back 23

Texture

Front 24

Coarse hair

Back 24

Typically requires the most processing

Front 25

Hair with __ elasticity can stretch up to 50% of its original length workout breaking.

Back 25

Normal

Front 26

Sponginess is a sign of _

Back 26

Poor elasticity

Front 27

Hair longer than 6" _

Back 27

May present problems with permanent waving

Front 28

Plastic rods are _

Back 28

Most commonly used

Front 29

The _ of perm rods usually vary from 1/8" to 3/4"

Back 29

Diameters

Front 30

Straight rods create a(n) _ from one side of the hair parting to the other.

Back 30

Consistently sized wave

Front 31

A fishhook is a flaw that results in the _

Back 31

Tip of the hair bending in a direction opposite to the rest of the curl

Front 32

The single flat wrap uses one paper placed _ the hair parting being wrapped

Back 32

Over the top of

Front 33

Perm wraps begin with sectioning the hair into panels that are further divided into _

Back 33

Base sections

Front 34

A large diameter rod is used for _

Back 34

Coarse thick hair

Front 35

In _ placement, the hair is protected about 45° beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is placed on the base section.

Back 35

On base

Front 36

Half off-base results when wrapping hair at _ to its base section

Back 36

90°

Front 37

Wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth causes _

Back 37

_The least amount of stress on the hair

Front 38

Spiral riding can be accomplished in _ ways.

Back 38

2

Front 39

The pH of _ generally falls within the range of 9.0 to 9.6

Back 39

Alkaline waving lotions

Front 40

True acid waves use _ as the primary reducing agent.

Back 40

Glyceryl monothioglycolate

Front 41

All acid-balanced waves have 3 product components: permanent waving solution, _ and neutralizer

Back 41

Activator

Front 42

_ waves use alkanolamines to replace ammonia.

Back 42

Ammonia-free

Front 43

Some permanent waving product palates contain a pre-wrap solution that is applied to the hair before rodding; in most cases this is _

Back 43

Leave-in conditioner

Front 44

Mixing the contents of the activator tube with the neutralizer will _

Back 44

Cause a violent chemical reaction that can cause injury.

Front 45

A cold wave uses the _ wrap method.

Back 45

Lotion or water

Front 46

_ if the hair is not sufficiently processed after 10 min

Back 46

The solution should be reapplied

Front 47

Create preliminary test curls in _ locations

Back 47

3

Front 48

When a firm S curl is formed, _

Back 48

Curl development is complete

Front 49

Hydrogen peroxide is the most common _

Back 49

Neutralizer

Front 50

Most manufacturers recommend a _ waiting period before shampooing freshly permed hair.

Back 50

24 - 48 hr

Front 51

All the tools within a panel for a basic perm wrap are positioned in _ on _ bases.

Back 51

The same direction; equal-sized

Front 52

Because it _, the curvature perm wrap is one of the best to use for men's styles

Back 52

Produces a more natural-looking wave pattern

Front 53

If hair has been tinted or lightened before waving, _

Back 53

Shampoo with an extra mild shampoo

Front 54

Air conditioning may _ of permanent waving solutions.

Back 54

Slow down the action

Front 55

Always _ applying waving and neutralizing solutions

Back 55

Protect the client's eyes when

Front 56

After examining a _ and determining that the results are good, proceed with the perm, but do not re-perm the test curl.

Back 56

Test curl

Front 57

When rinsing the waving solution, use _ and tepid water unless manufacturer's directions state otherwise.

Back 57

Gentle water pressure

Front 58

A reformation curl, also known as a _, is a 3-step process that is used to restructure very curly hair into lost and larger curls.

Back 58

Soft curl

Front 59

When performing a reformation curl, apt protective base cream _

Back 59

Around the hairline and tips of the ears

Front 60

Client's with extremely curly hair may prefer _ services to straighten their hair

Back 60

Chemical hair relaxing

Front 61

If there is an excessive buildup of dirt or styling products,

Back 61

perform a gentle shampoo service before using thio relaxers

Front 62

Thio relaxers have a pH above 10.0 and a higher concentration of _ than permanent wave products

Back 62

ATG

Front 63

Sodium hydroxide is the

Back 63

oldest and most commonly used chemical hair relaxer

Front 64

calcium hydroxide relaxers require the addition of a(n)

Back 64

Activator

Front 65

ammonium sulfite has the _ of all chemical hair relaxing products

Back 65

Lowest pH

Front 66

Chemical blowouts were used for many of the semi straightened afro styles of the

Back 66

1970's

Front 67

applying relaxer to one small hair section is a _ test

Back 67

Relaxer

Front 68

safety precautions for chemical hair relaxing include

Back 68

wearing gloves when applying relaxers

Front 69

take _ partings and apply base cream along each parting

Back 69

1/4 to 1/2

Front 70

during a retouch application, apply relaxer using

Back 70

a brush, an applicator bottle, the back of a comb, (all answers are correct)