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34 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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gyres
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ocean circulation systems that are driven by winds around a high pressure system, counterclockwise
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deep currents
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much slower. water sinks in N atlantic and rises in pacific and indian oceans
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salinity
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about 35 PPT
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pole equator circulation
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water cools and sinks by poles and warms and rises by equator
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temp, salinity, and oxygen all ___ with depth
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decrease
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eutastic sea level rise
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due to larger volume of water
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relative sea level
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local variance due to upward or downward movement of crust
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IPCC predictions of sea level rise
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.11 to .88 M by 2100
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classification of tides
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Coasts are
Microtidal: tidal range < 2m Mesotidal: tidal range 2-4 m Macrotidal: tidal range >4m |
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waves of transition
translation |
moving
breaking |
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wave refraction
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Wave approaches shore at at angle
Closest part hits shallow water first, slows down Wave approaches shore at at lower angle |
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wave do what to coasts
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straighten them
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longshore current
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waves coming at steep angle
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longshore current causes
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beach drift, carrying sand down beach
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depositional coasts
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deposit, atlantic and gulf
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sediment supply for depositional coasts
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coastal erosion and rivers
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tombolo
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A ridge of sand or gravel that connects an island to the mainland
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barrier spits
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Sand barriers blocking the mouth of rivers
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barrier island migration 2
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Probably began forming ~5,000 years ago
Due to sea level rise, have since then been: 1. Migrating landward 2. Thinning |
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prograding/regressive movement
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Advance seaward due to abundant sediment supply
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barrier island formation depends on 3
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sea level change, sediment supply, storms
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river deltas can be affected by 3 different processes
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river, tidal and wave processes
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tropical deposition 2
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coral reefs in clean water and magroves in cloudy waters and river mouths
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3 reef types
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fringing (rapid subsidence), barrier (slow) and atoll (fast)
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ancient coral reefs can be
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uplifted
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tsunamis can be from
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seismic activity, landslides or volcanic activity
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global population dist
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40% of global population lives < 100 km from coast
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total possible sea level rise
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200 ft
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2 beach types
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reflective: short and steep
dissipative: long and flat with sand bars |
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storms and waves
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storm moves sand down slope, reg waves move it back up
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Pilkey’s Truths of Shoreline Armoring
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Armoring destroys the beach
Only needed due to over-close development It meets the needs of only a few Once you start, you can’t stop (gets bigger) Armoring costs more than the property it protects |
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neap tide
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minimum
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kame
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A kame is a geological feature, an irregularly shaped hill or mound composed of sorted or stratified sand and gravel that is deposited in contact with the glacial ice.
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regelation
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the phenomenon of melting under pressure and freezing again when the pressure is reduced
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