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19 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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What is wavelength and wavehight?
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Wavelength is the distance from trough (lowest part of the wave) to trough, or crest (the highest part of the wave) to crest. Wavehight is the distance from crest to trough.
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What is a rip current?
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A sandbar can trap water, but if the water pushes against the sand, it can sometimes make a narrow opening through which a rip current is formed. A rip current is a strong, narrow stream of water heading out to sea.
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What is longshore drift?
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Longshore drift is the movement of sand grains along the beach. Because of currents, waves flow to shore at an angle, taking back and forward with it, sand grains.
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What is spring tide?
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Because of the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon, there are spring tides and neap tides, which pull more or less on the earth's water. There are two spring tides and neap tides in a month. First here is the spring tide, where the sun, moon, and earth are in a straight line. Because there is so much force on one/two sides, there is the greatest difference between the earth's high and low tides.
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What is neap tide?
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There is the neap tide, where the sun and moon form a right angle with the earth at the point. Because the sun and moon have almost equal gravitational pull, there is the least difference between the high and low tides. Then the spring tide comes again, and then the neap tide.
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What is salinity, and what is the average amount of it?
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Salinity is the amount of salt in water. the average amount of salinity in ocean water is 35 grams per kilogram of water, or 35 parts per thousand.
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What is the Coriolis effect?
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The Coriolis effect is the effect of the rotation of the earth on it's surface currents.
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What is upwelling?
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Upwelling is when the winds blow away the warm surface currents, causing the deep currents to come to the surface to replace them, bringing with it, nutrients and fish.
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Dunes reduce beach erosion because ___________.
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the roots of dune plants hold sand in place
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Near the shore, friction between the ocean floor and the water causes waves to :
A. speed up B. slow down |
B. slow down
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Tsunamis are caused by ____________ on the ocean floor.
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tornadoes, earthquakes, volcanoes, ect,
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What are some ways you can protect your house from longshore drift?
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You can make sand dunes, plant dune plants which hold the sands in place, you can put it behind a barrier beach which the waves sill wash up on instead of the mainland shore, or you can build a groin, or a wall of rocks, which the sand piles up against.
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Why can't energy from tides be used for world wide energy?
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There are very few places where there is a 4 to 5 meter difference, which is necessary, an the changes from high tide to low tide only happens once a day.
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How much air and carbon dioxide is there in ocean water?
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There is almost no oxygen in ocean water, and 60x as much carbon dioxide than in the air.
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What is El Niño?
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El Niño is an abnormal event in the winter that happens every 2 to 7 years. It brings warm weather to the East Coast, tornadoes to Florida, and floods to California. El Niño is when a warm sheet of water from the south heads up and runs into the cold currents up here.
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What is the difference between surface and deep currents?
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Deep currents are cold, slow moving, and deep currents heading towards the equator. Surface currents are fast, warm, and shallow currents that carry water towards the poles.
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What is a large, powerful warm surface current in the Atlantic Ocean that affects the climate of land in it's path?
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The Gulf Stream.
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What is the difference between erosion and longshore drift?
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Erosion is the breaking down of the shoreline and it's rocks. Longshore drift is the movement of sand grains down the beach because waves carry sand grains and move diagonally, because of currents.
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How do tides effect the creatures that live in that zone?
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The creatures that live near the shore could get washed onto land, or left there when the tides come in and out. Also, with the movement back out to sea, creatures could get hit against a rock.
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