17Th & 18Th Century Costumes

Front 1

Mantilla

Back 1

A large, oblong, fine lace veil first used by Spanish women in the 17th century to cover the hair; is a smaller version of the mantle worn by women during the Medieval Period.

Front 2

Guardinfante

Back 2

A Spanish variation of the French farthingale; wealthy Spanish women took up the style only around the mid-1600s, even though the farthingale was obsolete in the rest of Europe after the second decade of the 17th century; wider from side to side with a long, wide extension of the bodice below the waistline that extended over the top of the skirt; the bodice shoulder line was horizontal and sleeves were full and slashed, ending in fitted cuffs.

Front 3

Basque (bask)

Back 3

The extension of a 17th-century bodice below the waistline

Front 4

Drawloom

Back 4

A special loom from China on which elaborately figured silk fabrics were produced; was in use in Italy by the late Middle Ages, and by 1600 was being used wherever complicated patterns in silk fabrics were being woven

Front 5

Falling Band

Back 5

A large, flat, turned-down collar attached to a men’s shirt during the early 17th century; later made as a separate collar

Front 6

Balagny

Back 6

Circular cape of the 17th century, which hung over one shoulder, often secured with a cord that passed under the wide collar

Front 7

Cassocks (casaques)

Back 7

An early 17th century men’s coat with wide, full sleeves that were wide throughout the body and ended at the thigh or below

Front 8

Love lock

Back 8

Long lock of curled hair that was brought forward from the nape of neck and hung over the chest; worn by men during the mid 17th-century

Front 9

Straight Soles

Back 9

Footwear made without shaping for left or right feet

Front 10

Slap Soles

Back 10

A flat sole attached to high-heeled shoes only at the front, not at the heel; a feature of some early 17th-century footwear

Front 11

Latchets

Back 11

Shoe laces used in the 18th century that crossed the tongue from either side

Front 12

Petticoat Breeches (Rhinegraves)

Back 12

A skirt or a divided skirt that was cut so full that it gave the appearance of a short skirt, worn by men in the 17th century

Front 13

Canons

Back 13

Full, wide ruffles attached at the bottom of breeches during the mid-17th century

Front 14

Vest (Waistcoat)

Back 14

Garment adopted by King Charles II of England in 1666 that consisted of a knee-length outer coat, and a waistcoat of the same length that obscured that beeches beneath; in subsequent centuries, referred to the combination of an outer coat

Front 15

Virago Sleeves

Back 15

Stylish sleeves that were paned

Front 16

Secret

Back 16

The bottom layer of a woman's skirt from the 17th century

Front 17

Modeste

Back 17

The French term for the outer skirt of a woman’s dress, used in the mid 17th-century

Front 18

Jack Boots

Back 18

High, rigid men’s boots made of heavy leather, popular during the later 17th century

Front 19

Tricorne

Back 19

Term coined by costume historians for a variation of the cocked men’s hat, turned up to form three equidistant peaks with one peak in the center front; worn in the 18th century

Front 20

Justacorps (surtouts)

Back 20

Garments from the late 17th century with fitted straight sleeves, turned-back cuffs, and a buttoned-down front; they completely covered the breeches and waistcoat

Front 21

Cravats

Back 21

Large scarf-like pieces of fabric separate from the shirt worn instead of collars by men; first appeared in the late 17th century

Front 22

Galosh

Back 22

In the Baroque and Rococo periods, a flat-soled overshoe with a toe cap for keeping it in place; rubber galoshes for wearing over shoes were introduced in the late 1840s

Front 23

Whisk

Back 23

A wide lace collar or band of linen from the late 17th century

Front 24

Mantua (Manteau)

Back 24

Women’s gown of the late 17th and early 18th

Front 25

Fontange (Commode in England

Back 25

An elaborate, tall structure for holding women’s hair high on top of the head; made of three or four lace tiers in front, with a cascade of ruffles and bows in the back; popular in the late 18th century

Front 26

Pantofles

Back 26

Heel-less slippers or mules for women, popular in later 17th century

Front 27

Pomander Balls

Back 27

Small balls of perfume used during the 17th century; enclosed in a decorated, perforated box, or pomander, that might be shaped like an apple

Front 28

Patches

Back 28

Small fabric shapes glued to the face during the 17th century to cover imperfections or skin blemishes

Front 29

Plumpers

Back 29

Small balls of wax, placed in the cheeks to give the face a fashionably rounded shape; popular practice in the late 17th century

Front 30

Leading strings

Back 30

Small strings used during the 17th century to help hold a child upright as he or she learned to walk and retained for an

Front 31

Ribbon tied on love lock

Back 31

Solitaire

Front 32

Soldiers also know as...Why?

Back 32

"roundheads"

Short haircuts

Front 33

Instead of ruff around neck...it's now?

Back 33

Falling Band

Front 34

Why did the waistline of dress rise?

Back 34

new Queen inherited Queen Elizabeth's a tad bit short clothing

Front 35

Vest is also know as ...

Back 35

Waistcoat

Front 36

What replaced doublets as outer garments?

Back 36

Justacorps

Front 37

Outer Layer of a woman's gown

Back 37

la modeste

Front 38

Mid-layer of a woman's gown

Back 38

skirt, friponne

Front 39

Last layer of a woman's gown (underwear)

Back 39

la secrete

Front 40

Frill

Back 40

sewn on one side (ruffle)

Front 41

Furbelow

Back 41

sewn down the middle

Front 42

Ruching

Back 42

sewn on both sides

Front 43

What were aprons and bibs replaced with?

Back 43

a pinafore

Front 44

Smocking

Back 44

decorative needlework from the 18th century, used to hold gather cloth together; the stitches catch alternate folds in honey

Front 45

Smock Frock

Back 45

men’s knee-length loose fitting homespun gown worn by farmers in the 18th century, later called smock

Front 46

Frock Coats

Back 46

were cut looser and shorter than dress coats and they had flat, turned-down collars

Front 47

Fall

Back 47

a square, central flap that buttoned to the waistline

Front 48

Boot cuffs

Back 48

cuffs that reached to the elbow

Front 49

Steinkirk

Back 49

was a style of the cravat in which the tie pulled through the buttonhole and twisted loosely

Front 50

Drawers

Back 50

garment worn next to the skin beneath breeches, were the functional equivalent of modern undershorts or medieval braies.

Front 51

Short gown

Back 51

a garment from the 18th century similar to a loose jacket or overblouse, worn with a skirt by working class and rural women.

Front 52

Anglomania

Back 52

In 18th century, a French fad for English things

Front 53

Redingote

Back 53

18th century full overcoat originating in England that had a large collar and was worn for riding

Front 54

Bicornes

Back 54

two pointed hats

Front 55

Tricornes

Back 55

three-pointed hats

Front 56

Chapaeu Bras

Back 56

hat carried under the arm, rather than being worn

Front 57

Club wigs (catogans)

Back 57

when queues were doubled up on themselves and tied at the middle to form a loop of hair

Front 58

Queues

Back 58

wig with a lock or pigtail in the back

Front 59

Ditto suit

Back 59

when all three items were made of the same fabric

Front 60

Stocks

Back 60

a linen square folded to form a high neckband that was stiffened with buckram, and fastened behind the neck

Front 61

Toupee (Foretop)

Back 61

brushing the hair straight back from the forehead and into a slightly elevated roll, hair with big hump and curl

Front 62

Mob cap

Back 62

A women’s indoor hat from the early 18th century

Front 63

Pinner

Back 63

circular cotton or linen cloth cap with single or double frills around the edge, placed flat on the head

Front 64

Pet en lair

Back 64

a short, hip-length dress from 18th century worn with a separate, gathered skirt

Front 65

Sacque

Back 65

an 18th-century gown that was unbelted, loose from shoulder to floor; also called robe battante, robe volante, and innocente

Front 66

Spatter dashers (spats)

Back 66

separate protective coverings that extended from the top of the shoe to some point below the knee, were worn to protect the legs

Front 67

Paniers (hoops in England)

Back 67

French for basket, like a hip bucket that extended to the floor (Mackenzie said that)

Front 68

Cambric

Back 68

a plain-weave, fine, white linen fabric

Front 69

Dimity

Back 69

usually of cotton with a woven, lengthwise cord or figure

Front 70

Flannel

Back 70

a soft wool with a napped surface

Front 71

Calico

Back 71

printed cotton fabric

Front 72

Stays

Back 72

corset, from 17th century

Front 73

Jumps

Back 73

applied to loose, unboned bodices worn at home to provide relief from tight corseting
men’s indoor hat from the early 18th century, with

Front 74

Robe a l’Anglaise

Back 74

18th-century dress with a close fit in the front and at the back

Front 75

Eschelles

Back 75

stomachers were decorate with embroidery; others were cover with ribbons

Front 76

Engageants

Back 76

sleeves that ended at the elbow ending with one or more ruffles

Front 77

Casaquin

Back 77

Thigh-length, fitted women’s jacket with no waistline seams that flared below the waist

Front 78

tete de mouton

Back 78

An 18th century women’s hairstyle achieved by close, tight curls

Front 79

beregere (shepherdess hat)

Back 79

Large, flat straw hat from the 18th ceuntry with low crown and wide brim that sometimes tied under the chin

Front 80

false rumps

Back 80

During the late 18th century, a pad tied at the back of the waist that supported the fullness of a woman’s skirt filled with cork or other light cushioning materials

Front 81

Polonaise

Back 81

an overdress and petticoat in which the overskirt was puffed and looped by means of tapes and rings sewn into the skirt, with a hoop or bustle supporting the skirt

Front 82

Robe a la Francaise

Back 82

18th-century dress with a full, pleated cut at the back and a fitted front

Front 83

Watteau Back

Back 83

Watteau Back-term for loose fitting pleated-back

Front 84

Mules

Back 84

Backless slippers

Front 85

Latchets

Back 85

Shoe laces in the 18th century that crossed the tongue from either side

Front 86

Tippets

Back 86

Narrow fur or feather piece from the 18th century that was worn around the shoulders like a modern-day stole

Front 87

Calashes (caleches)

Back 87

An 18th-century hood made large enough to cover the hair, made of a series of semi-hoops sewn into the hood at intervals in order not to crush the hair

Front 88

Hedgehog fashion

Back 88

hair styled to look like a hedgehog

Front 89

Caracao

Back 89

A thigh-length, fitted women’s jacket with no waistline that flared below the waist, popular in the late 18th century

Front 90

Chemise a la reine

Back 90

white muslin gown that resembled the chemise undergarment of the period, but unlike the chemise, had a waistline and a soft, fully gathered skirt.

Front 91

Redingote dress

Back 91

18th century gown that resembled buttoned redingote greatcoats with wide lapels or revers at the neck

Front 92

Round Gown

Back 92

Daytime dress from the late 18th century that did not open at the front to show a petticoat

Front 93

Pattens

Back 93

Overshoes from the 18th century that protected against wet and muddy surfaces; similar to clogs; were made of matching or other fabrics and had sturdy leather soles, built-up arches, and latchets that tied across the instep to hold the shoe in place; less fashionable versions for working people were made with metal soles and leather fasteners

Front 94

Skeleton Suit

Back 94

Worn by boys older than seven or eight during the 18th and early 19th centuries; consisted of long straight trousers, a white shirt with a wide collar that finished in a ruffled edge, and over the shirt, a jacket that either was a shorter, simplified version of those worn by adults or was cut to the waist and double-breasted

Front 95

Wash Balls

Back 95

A combination of rice powder, flour, starch, white lead, and orris root used in place of soap during the 18th century

Front 96

What was clothing classified as?

Back 96

Dress or Full Dress

Front 97

Loosely fitted garments were called

Back 97

Frocks

Front 98

What replaced cravats after 1730?

Back 98

Stocks

Front 99

Quarterfoil

Back 99

Hides spurs on boots

Front 100

Polonaise

Back 100

gave third illusion to panier (hip buckets)

Front 101

Galant (Favor)

Back 101

bunches of ribbon loops

Front 102

Perry Wig

Back 102

Louis XIV's wig, Judge's wig

Front 103

Bag Wig

Back 103

wig with a pontail in a bag.

Front 104

Calash

Back 104

Pioneer wagon hat, attached to cape

Front 105

Festoon

Back 105

decorative ornaments on a woman's gown

Front 106

17th-18th century timeline:

Back 106

Cavalier-Early Baroque-Late Baroque-Rococo

Front 107

Jabot

Back 107

Frilly ruffles of cambric or lace placed at the front of the neck of women’s bodices