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13 Cards in this Set

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  • Back
define wave
body of water, a ridge, or swell on the surface
how to calculate wave speed (c)
divide the wavelength by the period (L / t)
primary cause of ocean wave is:
wind
define wind fetch:
distance over the water that the winds blow in the same direction
where are waves the biggest?
in Antarctica, because there is less land down there so the fetch can be longer
describe a plunging breaker
a wave where the top of it can't keep up with the bottom, and curls over the top. Is found on beaches with a steep slope
describe a spilling breaker
a wave where it slows down gradually. Is found on beaches with a gradually-sloping shore
constructive interference is:
when waves hit crest-to-crest
destructive interference is:
when waves hit crest-to-trough
the most common wave interference is:
mixed, when a wave hits a crest to the side.
Wave refraction is:
when a wave comes into shore at an angle, the side of the wave closest to shore slows down and the other side turns in to shore, coming in mostly parallel
wave reflection is:
when waves bounce back after hitting a hard barrier, causing choppy waters and constructive interference
describe a rip current
an undertow where water is trapped in a little pool on beach, forces a hole in the sand back to the ocean, but it is so small that so much water tries to go through at once and creates a strong current.