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14 Cards in this Set

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How does a wave form?
when winds blowing across the water transmit energy to the water
What determines the size of a wave?
2 things:
the strength of the wind and the length of time it blows
What is a wave?
The movement of energy through a body of water.
What is wavelength?
The horizontal distance between crests of a wave.
What is the crest of a wave?
The highest part of a wave/
What is the lowest part of a wave called?
The trough.
What is the vertical distance from the crest to the trough of the wave called?
The wave height.
What are the three different wave measurements?
Wavelength, wave height and frequency.
What are breakers?
The white-capped waves that crash onto shore.
What are the long low waves that travel in deep water called?
Swells
What happens to a wave when it nears the shore?
As the water becomes shallower, the bottoms of the waves touch the ocean floor and friction causes the wave to slow down. Wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
What is the pull of the water as it rushes from the beach back out to sea called?
The undertow.
What is a Tsunami?
A type of wave caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor.
Why is a ship far out at sea not even aware of a tsunani when it passes?
Because a tsunami in deep water may have a long wavelength but a short wave height.