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14 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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How does a wave form?
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when winds blowing across the water transmit energy to the water
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What determines the size of a wave?
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2 things:
the strength of the wind and the length of time it blows |
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What is a wave?
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The movement of energy through a body of water.
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What is wavelength?
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The horizontal distance between crests of a wave.
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What is the crest of a wave?
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The highest part of a wave/
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What is the lowest part of a wave called?
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The trough.
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What is the vertical distance from the crest to the trough of the wave called?
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The wave height.
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What are the three different wave measurements?
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Wavelength, wave height and frequency.
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What are breakers?
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The white-capped waves that crash onto shore.
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What are the long low waves that travel in deep water called?
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Swells
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What happens to a wave when it nears the shore?
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As the water becomes shallower, the bottoms of the waves touch the ocean floor and friction causes the wave to slow down. Wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
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What is the pull of the water as it rushes from the beach back out to sea called?
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The undertow.
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What is a Tsunami?
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A type of wave caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor.
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Why is a ship far out at sea not even aware of a tsunani when it passes?
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Because a tsunami in deep water may have a long wavelength but a short wave height.
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