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108 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Definition of Knitting
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formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns using needles
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Comparisons between knitting and weaving
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Knitting stretches but weaving does not stretch easily
Kitting is more open and has less cover while weaving has more cover if it's tightly woven Kitting has less staple than weaving In knitting patterns can change quickly but in weaving there is less adaptable machinery Knitting has interconnected loops which weaving is made up of warp and filling |
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Unravel Knit
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1 yarn that makes up entire 2D grid
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Unravel Weave
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separate yarns
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What is the percentages of each in apparel between woven and knit
Men's wear Women's wear Children's wear |
Mens wear: 70% woven, 30% Knit
Women's wear: 30% woven, 70% Knit Childrens wear: 30% woven, 70% Knit |
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Wale
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a vertical column of loops (stitches)
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Course
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a series of successive loops lying lengthwise
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Gauge
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number of stitches (needles) or specific width (npi)
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Higher the # of filling,...
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finer the knit
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How are filling knits made?
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on a flat bed or circular machine
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What can be made from the circular machine made to that makes filling knits
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it makes tubes
ie. tops or sacks |
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yarns run __________ in a weft knit fabric
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crosswise
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instead of warp and weft, knit fabrics are referred to as....
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wale x course
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What is a vertical row of loops called?
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wales
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What do weft (filling) yarns mimic?
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hand knits
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single filling knits
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machine uses one set of needles
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jersey
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simplest, composed of knit and other loops; unravels from either end
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technical face
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"more holes"- outer side of fabric as knitted
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purl for jersey fabrics
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half moon appearance on back
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Jacquard Jerseys
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micro processor controls each needle individually to create patterns in loops and or colors
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Where do jacquard jersey knit fabrics appear?
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they float on the back
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Intarsia
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design knit in color in spot desired
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What is similar about jacquard jerseys and intarsia?
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they both have hand knitting capabilities
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What is more stretchy: woven pile knits or pile knit jersey
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pile knit jersey
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pile jersey knit
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cut or uncut pile with two sets of yarns
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What are the two sets of yarns for a pile knit jersey
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BCF and other
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what happens when you apply heat to the pile knit jersey
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BCF yarn shrinks and other yarn forms pile
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Two examples of a pile knit jersey and the differences between the two
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knit terrycloth: leave loops
velour: cut loops |
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sliver knit jersey or fake fur
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yarns form ground and fiber (sliver) forms pile
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weft insertion jersey, french terry or fleece
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large, novelty or irregular yarns are laid in courses for textures, weight and novelty appearance. May be brushed to create a nap (low twist)
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What does brushed mean?
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gets fuzzy (inside of sweatshirt)
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Examples of weft insertion jersey, french terry or fleece
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polar fleece or sweatshirt
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What is the given example of a single filling knit
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jersey
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What is an example of a double filling knit
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rib knit
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What is special about the machine for double filling knits
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machine uses two sets of needles and may use two sets of yarns
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What is the simplest type of rib knit
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1 x 1
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Characteristics of rib knits
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same appearance face and back, does not curl
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What is different between jersey knits and rib knits
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rib knits are twice as thick and extensible
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interlock knits
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two 1 x 1 ribs interlocked; does not curl or run
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purl of double filling knits
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loops pulled to face on one course and back on next course
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LaCoste
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tuck and knit loops alternate to create mesh like fabric
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Compared to single knit fabrics, double knits are
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firmer
less stretchy have less of a tendency to curl heavier |
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What does warp knitting produce?
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a vertical loop structure
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How is warp knitting made?
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by using one or more yarn sets where each set is controlled by a guide bar and each loop in course is formed by a different yarn
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Characteristics of warp knitting
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combines best quality of woven and knit fabrics
staple in both directions |
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In warp knitting, what does the number of guide bars indicate?
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number of yarns sets and name of fabrics
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In a finer gauge, what are the most likely filament yarns?
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tricot
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What is plain tricot used for?
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lingerie fabric
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what is brushed tricot used for?
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night wear
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Sueded tricot
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is raised, sheared and pressed into fabric
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Chevron
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horizontal V-shape appearance on back in a tricot
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made from spun yarns in courser gauge
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Raschel
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How does Raschel appear?
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it can be open designs (crochet effect) or solid 3D effects
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How do patterns appear in Raschel?
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laid into yarns
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What is Raschel used for?
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nets, laces, curtains, drapery, dish cloths
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yarns are laid in the stitches during knitting but are not used to form any stitches
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insertion warp knits
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Is weft or warp insertion used for insertion warp knits?
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either
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What does insertion give to fabric?
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the vertical stability of woven cloth while retaining the horizontal stitch of knit fabric
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What is insertion warp knits used for?
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hook and loop tape fasteners (velcrow) and trims
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Are narrow knitted fabrics filling or warp knits?
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either
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what are the structures of non wovens?
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fiberweb
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manufacturing steps of nonwovens
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select fiber
web creation web bonding |
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For the selection of fibers in nonwoven fabrics, what does filament fibers and staple fibers provide?
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filament: strength and durability
staple: absorbency |
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What are the different web creating processes in nonwovens?
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Dry laid
Wet laid Spunbonded Spunlacces Meltblown |
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Dry laid
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fibers arranged by carding or air in a random or oriented manner
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Example of dry laid web creation
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wipes, wicks, base fabric for laminating
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Wet laid
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fibers arranged from slurry of fibers and water
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What are wet laid web creation of non wovens used for
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roofing substrates, filters and innerlinings
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Spunbonded
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created at spinneret by laying continuous filaments in a random fashion on a conveyor belt; fused together at crosspoints; uses heat and pressure
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What are spunbonded web creations for nonwovens used for?
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geotextiles and protective apparel
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Spunlaced
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or Hydroentangled
Similar to spunbonded. Jets of water create pattern |
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What are spulaced web creations for non wovens used for?
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medical gowns, household wipes, activewear
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Meltblown
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solution extracted into high speed jet of air and broken into short fibers, collected on conveyor belt and bonded
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Types of Web bending
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needle punching
chemical adhesiveness heat |
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Needle punching
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barbed needle mechanically interlocks fibers
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Chemical adhesiveness
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glues fibers together using acrylic polymers
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Heat
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melt fibers together at overlap
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Felt characteristics
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fibers interlocked; no grain; will not fray or ravel
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End uses of felt
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padding, sound proofing, insulation
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How are foams made?
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by incorporating air into an elastic substance (polyurethane)
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end use of foams
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pillows, chair cushions, mattresses, carpet padding
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Fabrics from solutions
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foams and films
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Films
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solution extruded through slit or cast on a hot drum
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What solutions are used for films
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vinyl and polyurethane
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characteristics of films
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waterproof, impermeable, soil resistent
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end use of films
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shoes, shower curtains, upholstery, plastic bags
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coated fabrics
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combines a textile fabric with a polymer film
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In a coated fabric, what does the textile provide and what does the film provide?
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textile provides strength and elongation control
film provides protection from environmental factors. |
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films from coated fabrics
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PVC
neoprene polyurethane |
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film attatched by
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lamination
calandering coating spray transfer coating |
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lamination
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film slightly melted and adhered to fabric
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calandering
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film is directly hot calendered onto fabric
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coating
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hot fluid film applied by knife of roll
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end use of coated fabrics
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upholstery
luggage bags |
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bonded textiles
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adhering one or two layers of fabric together with foam, wet adhesive or hot melt adhesive
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examples of wet adhesive
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acrylic/urethane adhesive
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examples of hot melt adhesive
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nylon
polyester polyurethane |
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advantages of bonded textiles
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less expensive
warmth without weight |
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disadvantages of bonded textiles
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may delaminate, differential shrinking, glue bleed
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end use of bonded textiles
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shoes and furnishings
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tufting
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pile is made by inserting loops into a constructed ground fabric
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what is tufting used for
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tufted pile carpets
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What is an advantage of tufted pile carpets over woven carpets
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faster and easier to produce
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what gives surface texture in tufted carpets
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variations in loop height, cut pile or looped
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Parts of a tufted carpet
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primary backing
adhesive secondary backing |
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face yarns of tufted carpets
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nylon (BCF or worsted)
polyester (worsted) olefin (BCF or worsted) |
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primary backing of tufted carpets
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nonwoven and woven olefin
woven jute |
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secondary backing of tufted carpets
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woven olefin
woven jute foam rubber |
