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98 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination
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fabric
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any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high lenght-to-width ratio and with suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric; the smallest component, hairlike in nature, that can be seperated from a fabric
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fiber
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any process used to add color and enhance performance of gray goods (unfinished fabrics)
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finish
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any fabric that has not been finished
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gray goods (grey or greige goods)
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a term originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibers, yarns, fabrics, or products made of fibers, yarns or fabrics
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textile
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an assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric
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yarn
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the deisgn and enginerring of a product so that it has the desire serviceability characteristics, appeals to the target market, can be made within an acceptable amount of time for a reasonable cost and can be sold at a profit
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product development
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the measure of a textile products abilitiy to meet consumers needs
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product serviceablity
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the manner in which a textile, textile component, or textile product responds to use or how it responds when exposed to some environmental factor that might adversely affect it.
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performance
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silk
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the only natural filament fiber
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staple
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fibers are short, finite length (less than 10")
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filament
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fibers are very long, infinite length
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all natural
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fibers are staple fibers, except for silk
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all manufactured
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fibers produced in filament form but are cut into staple length
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macrostructure
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things you can see by the eye: length, shape/contour, crimp
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microstructure
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things that require you to look under the microscope: cross sectional shape
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submicroscopic structure
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with higher magnification you can see the component parts of the fiber
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fine structure
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structure at the molecular level.
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polymers
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giant molecules that have high molecular weight. made from small molecules called monomers
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Degree of Polymerization
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the number of monomer molecules linked together to form the polymer chain
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amphorous
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polymer chains arranged in random disorganized way:
yields to extension holds water |
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crystalline
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when molecules are closely packed together: high strength **polymer chains are parallel*
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denier
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a measure of the linear density of the fiber: 9000 meter length of fiber
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tex
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100 meter length of fiber
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drape
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the appearance to the eye of how a fabric hangs
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hand
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describes the feeling in hte hand of the fiber
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modulus
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initiual resistance to tensile force before break. Measure of stiffness.
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tenacity
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a measure of the tensile STRENTGH of the fiber
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elongation
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a measure of the amount a fiber stretchs to the point of rupture
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abrasion resistance
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ability to withstand abrasive forces.
Ex: upholstery of a cars interior. |
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elastic recovery
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a measure of the abilityof the fiber to RECOVER from a stretching deformation
ex: lawnchair, seatbelt |
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resilience
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a measure of the ability of the fiber to recover from a compressive force
ex: carpet |
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absorbancy
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ability of fiber to take up moisture from the body or from the environment
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regain
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the measure of the moisture content of the fiber in standard conditions
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textile labeling (TFPIA) must have on label...
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fiber content in decending order (not required to put if less than 5%), generic name, manufacturs name, RN #, country/origin
can use generic terms |
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yarn forward
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tell the country where each part of the garment was made. where fabric was woven/knitted, where it was dyed, where it was cut and sewn, where the yard was produced etc.
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types of cotton
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american upland
sea island egyptian- extra long staple pima- extra long staple domestic supima |
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mercerized cotton
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fabrics or yarns treated with strong sodium hydroxide solutions usually under tension
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cotton
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poor elastic recovery
poor resilience high regain flammable damaged by acids stronger when wet subject to mildew swells in water |
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bast fiber
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taken from the stem of the plant
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flax
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stronger than cotton (more crystalline)
more absorbent than cotton high regain poor elastic recovery and resilience |
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lambs wool
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never been used before
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virgin wool
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fibers from the lambs first sheering (more fine)
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wool
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high elongation
good elastic recovery and reslience VERY ABSORBANT has scales (go in 1 direction) shrinks in heat/moisture |
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silk
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stronger than wool, less elastic recovery and reslilence
weak when wet absorbency good degrades in acid |
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throwing
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the twisting of manufactured fibers
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tape yarns (description)
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inexpensive yarns produced from extruded polymer films.
coarse and used in carpet backing, rope, cord |
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monofilament yarns (uses)
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industrial uses such as fish line, sewing thread, nets
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bulk yarn aka bulk-continuous filament yarns
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yarn that is processed to have greater covering power than a convential yarn of equal linear denisty and of the same basic material with normal twist
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bulk yarns vs. smooth filament yarns
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bulk yarns are:
more absorbant, more permeable to moisture, better bulk, cover, elasticty, static buildup is lower, do not pill or shed |
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spun yarns
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continuous strand of staple fibers held together in some way
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high twist vs. low twist yarns
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low twist has more air space and his better insulation
*yarns with more trapped air insulate better* |
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ring spinning
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yarns are finer, smoother, better quality, more uniform, and have less problems in fabrication
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open-end spinning
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yarns have harsher hand, and are weaker and more sensitvie to abrasion but more uniform and opaque in appearance.
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blend
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intimate mixture of fibers from different generic type, compostion, length, diameter or color spun together in one yarn
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high-bulk yarns
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yarns that are essentially free from stretch
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mixture
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yarns of different generic types within a fabric
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combination
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ply yarns
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twist
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spiral arrangement of fibers around the yarn's axis
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amount of twist
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varies on fiber lenght, yarn size and intended use
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low twist
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smooth-filament yarns
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napping twist
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lofty spun yarns
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average twist
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made of stable fibers
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yarn number
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yarn size of fineness
expressed in terms of weight per unit length |
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yarn number is an indirect or fixed weight system because...
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the finer the yarn, the larger the number
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simple yarn
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alike in all its parts and has one strand
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ply yarn
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made by a second twisting operating that combines two or more singles
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cord
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made by a third-twisting operation which twistsply yarns together
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sewing thread
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yarn intended for stiching materials together using machine or hand processes
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fancy yarns
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yarns that deliberatly have unlike parts and that are irregular at intervals
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tweed yarn
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single spun fancy yarn with flecks of color twisted into the yarn to add interest
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slub yarn
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single spun fancy yarn with thick and thin intervals
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spiral/corkscrew yarns
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have two more plies
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parts of a fancy yarn
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1.core ply
2. effect/fancy ply 3. binder ply |
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ratine yarns
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effect ply twisted in a spiral arrangement around the ground ply
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knot/spot/nub/knop yarn
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twisting the effect ply many times inthe same place
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spike/snarl yarn
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effect ply forms alternating open loops along both of the yarn
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boucle yarn (loop or curl)
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has closed loops at regular intervals along the yarn
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covered yarn
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yarns that have a central yarn that is compeletly covered by fiber or another yarn
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core-spun yarns
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stretch yarn made by spinning a sheath of staple fibers around a core
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wrap-spun yarns
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have a core of staple fibers wrapped or bound by filament fibers
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fasciated yarns
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grouping of filament fibers is wrapped with staple fibers
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nep
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small knot of entangled fibers
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hairiness
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excessive fiber ends on the yarns surface
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differential friction effect contributes to which property of wool
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felting
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thermoplastic fibers
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acetate, nylon, polyester, olefin
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the cross sectional shape of acetate fibers is crumpled because
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the filament collapses when the solvent evaporates
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fiber replacement for wool
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acrylic
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heat setting...
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relaxes tensions created by drawing and creates cystalline areas
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second largest quantiy produced in apparel textiles
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polyester
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viscous deals with
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the flow of polymers
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polylactic fibers made from
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corn
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fiber can be made from recycled soda pop bottles
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polyester
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imitate rubber
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spandex
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fiber with the lowest density. floats on water
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olefin
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regernated cellulose fiber
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the cellulose fiber was changed chemically and then changed back to cellulose
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oleophillic
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attracted to oil
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fibers with high heat and flame resistance
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aramid
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