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55 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
waves
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-wave height
-crest -trough -wave length |
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crest
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top of the wave
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trough
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bottom of the wave
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waves are formed by
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-wind
-storm energy -tectonic energy |
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wave motion
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-oscillatory in open ocean
-translation in shallow water |
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wave swells
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A series of waves noted by crests of the small lenth
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wave base =
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1/2 wave lenth
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when water depth is "wave base" or less:
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wave energy erodes the bottom
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As velocity decreases
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wave height increases
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1 stage of wave movement
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open ocean waves with constant wave length
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2 stage of wave length
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approaching shore wave touch bottom (wave lenth shortens)
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3 stge of wave length
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surf (breakers form)
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Two forms of wave refraction
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-The angled approach of wave onto a shore
-The bending around an irregular headland |
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longshore current
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sand moves parallel to shore
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wave refraction by angled approach
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-causes longshore currents
-rip currents |
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Wave circulation
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-builds beaches
-beach sediment: Longshore drift |
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Dune
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-landward from backshore
-wind blown sand |
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the beach face
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summer beach builds up
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storm waves
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beach is eroded offshore due 2
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beach face (foreshore)
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-between high and low tides
-steepest part of the beach -coarsest sediment |
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back beach (back shore)
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-behind berms
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beach dunes
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-formed behind the backshore
parabolic dunes |
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parabolic dunes
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-require abudant sand beaches
-horns point in up-wind direction -commonly form around a blow out |
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swash
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movement of water onto a beach
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barrier island
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is parallel to shore
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sea cave
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an indentation in a cliff along a coast
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estuary
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drowned stream valley
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a sea arch
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may form when a sea cave is cut through a headland
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breaker
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a wave in the surf zone
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longshore drift
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longshore current + beach drift
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spit
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a sand or gravel bar deposited by longshore drift
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Sea cliff
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is a steep surface that results from shoreline erosion
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beach drift
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zigzag movement of sediment along a beach
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midbay bar
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forms across the middle of a bay
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wavelength
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distance between adjacent waves
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baymouth
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bar that closes a bay off from the main water body
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longshore current
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results from swash and backwash and is parallel to shore
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backwash
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return of a wave's water from a beach to the lake or ocean
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surf
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zone where waves feel bottom
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terrace
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an uplifted wave-cut platform
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wave cut platform
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develops beneath the surf zone
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headland
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a peninsula of bedrock, usually surrounded by cliffs
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stack
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a vertical erosional remnant in the water along a coast
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shoreline features
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-spits
-baymouth bar -barrier islands -tidal inlets -Tombolo |
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the spit shows the direction
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longshore current builds out the beach...
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features caused by wave deposition
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wave-built platform-offshore
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features caused by wave erosion
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wave-cut cliffs-landward of the beach
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wave cut platform - offshore
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moraine terrace
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Features associated with headlands
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-"sea" (wave cut)
-sea arch -sea stack |
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Erosional and Emergent
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West Coast shoreline
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Depositional and submergent
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East Coast shoreline
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Organic
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coral reef structure shoreline
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submergent coastline
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chesapeake bay is an example of a
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Darwins life cycle of coral reefs
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-Barrier Reefs
-Fringing Reefs -Atolls |
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Human Intervention
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-sea walls
-jetties -groins -breakwaters -beach nourishment |