Renaissance

Front 1

Aiguillettes

Back 1

Small jeweled metal points mounted on laces, which served to hold panes, or slashes together.

Front 2

Bases

Back 2

Separate short skirts worn with a jacket or doublet made from a series of stiffened gores.

Front 3

Bobbin Lace or Pillow Lace

Back 3

Made by twisting or knotting together a series of threads held on bobbins into a complex pattern.

Front 4

Bombast

Back 4

A stuffing made of wool, horsehair, short linen fibers called tow, or bran.

Front 5

Bum-rolls

Back 5

A padded roll that was placed around the waist in order to give greater width below the waist.

Front 6

Busk

Back 6

A long, flat piece of wood or whalebone that was sewn into one or more casings to provide stiffening to the corset.

Front 7

Camicia

Back 7

The Italian word for undershirts and for a woman’s chemise.

Front 8

Canions

Back 8

An extension from the end of the trunk hose to the knee or slightly below, made from the same color or in a contrasting color to trunk hose. They fastened to separate stockings at the bottom.

Front 9

Capotain

Back 9

A high-crowned, narrow brimmed hat.

Front 10

Chopine

Back 10

Very high platform-soled shoes worn throughout Italy and in northern Europe.

Front 11

Conch

Back 11

A sheer, gauzelike veil cut the full length of the body from shoulder to floor and worn cape like over the shoulders. At the back it was attached to a wing like construction that stood up like a high collar behind the head.

Front 12

Culots

Back 12

A type of trunk hose that were very short, not much more than a pad around the hips, worn with very tight-fitting hose.

Front 13

Duckbilled or Splayfooted shoes

Back 13

Very wide, square toed, slipper like shoes, usually decorated with jewels, puffs, or slashes.

Front 14

Ferroniere

Back 14

A Chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead.

Front 15

Filet or Lacis

Back 15

Embroidered patterns on a net background; a forerunner to lace.

Front 16

French Bonnet

Back 16

A pillbox like shape with turned-up brim that might have decorative cutout sections in the brim.

Front 17

French Farthingale

Back 17

Steel or cane spokes that fastened to top-most hoop to a waistband. Could also be called the wheel or the drum.

Front 18

Gallygaskins or Slops—

Back 18

A type of trunk hose the sloped gradually from a narrow waist to fullness concentrated about mid-thigh where they ended.

Front 19

Guardaroba

Back 19

Set of clothing made up of 3 garments: two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for indoors

Front 20

Needlepoint Lace

Back 20

Made by embroidering over base threads arranged in a pattern, and connecting these base threads with a series of small intricate stitches.

Front 21

Pair of Bodys

Back 21

An early form of the corset cut in two sections and fastening at the front and back with laces or tapes.

Front 22

Paltock

Back 22

The English version of the doublet; cut with a deep V at the front which sometimes had a filler or stomacher of contrasting color inserted under the V.

Front 23

Peascod Belly

Back 23

Padding of the doublet that resembled the chest of a peacock.

Front 24

Pecadils

Back 24

A row of small, square flaps just below the waist of a doublet

Front 25

Ropa

Back 25

A loosely fitted outer gown or surcote made either sleeveless, or with a long sleeve, puffed at the top and fitted for the rest of the arm’s length. It fell from the shoulders, unbelted in an A-line to the floor; derived from Middle Eastern styles.

Front 26

Ruff

Back 26

Very wide, often stiffly starched lace, this was a separate collar piece that evolved from lacy shirt collars.

Front 27

Spanish Work

Back 27

Embroidery applied to the neckband and wrists of men’s shirts and women’s chemises using delicate black silk figures worked on fine, white linen.

Front 28

Stomacher

Back 28

False front or ornamental covering of front of bodice.

Front 29

Supportasse

Back 29

A frame that supported a large ruff that stood up behind the neck.

Front 30

Trunk Hose

Back 30

A large padded breech that looked like pumpkins.

Front 31

Venetians

Back 31

Breeches that were wide at the top and tapered to the knee.

Front 32

Verdugale or Spanish Farthingale

Back 32

A construction of whalebone, cane, or steel hoops graduated in size from the waist to the floor and sewn into the petticoat or underskirt.

Front 33

Aglet, Aiglet, or Point*

Back 33

A metal tag or point used to fasten armor to various parts of other garments including sleeves and hose to a paltock or underdoublet.

Front 34

Barret*

Back 34

A flat Spanish cap of gorgeous material which was slashed, puffed and embroidered.

Front 35

Basquine*

Back 35

A boned fitted underbodice of heavy material (resembling a corset) from which the term basque comes.

Front 36

Buckram*

Back 36

A coarse open weave of linen or cotton sized with glue and used as early as the 16th century as stiffening for parts of dress.

Front 37

Chain of Order*

Back 37

A heavy chain worn by a man across the chest and neckline as decoration. Denoted the organization to which he belonged.

Front 38

Chamarre

Back 38

A large square piece of fabric, slit up the front vertically into a T-shape to leave a neck opening, with a collar attached to the top of the T-shaped slit and the sides folded back. Worn as a coat.

Front 39

Falling Band

Back 39

Wide, flat collar, known as the Louis XIII collar, of sheer white fabric, with or without lace edge.

Front 40

Gable Headdress

Back 40

Resembles in outline the pediment of a Greek temple. Its essentials were the piece that goes over the front part of the head and covers the ears and the veil or bag cap covering the rest of the head.

Front 41

Jerkin*

Back 41

A short velvet or leather jacket, usually sleeveless.

Front 42

*Kirtle

Back 42

A dress, closefitting at shoulder, waist and hips and had a full skirt.

Front 43

*Mellon Hose or Haut-de-chausses

Back 43

Other names for the trunk hose.

Front 44

*Neck Whisk

Back 44

A standing, fan-shaped, wired collar.

Front 45

*Panes

Back 45

Loose, vertical bands used on sleeves, doublets, and trunk hose.

Front 46

Shoe Roses*

Back 46

Large ribbon ties in the form of rosettes for men’s shoes.

Front 47

Shoulder Wings or Cresents*

Back 47

Decorative pieces extending outward at the shoulder of the doublet.

Front 48

Slashing*

Back 48

Vertical, horizontal, or diagonal slits in the fabric of a garment, through which appeared a different fabric.

Front 49

Solleret*

Back 49

A shoe with a rounded toe.