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56 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
What does the spec pack contain? |
Graphic and written information necessary for directing mass production of garments |
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What are the 3 things that garments in the spec pack aim for? |
1. To look like the original design 2. Fit the target customer 3. Meet the engineering requirements demanded of a production line |
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What happens after the spec pack has meet all of it's requirements? |
1. A style number for each design is assigned 2. Fabric and identification info is collected 3. Preliminary cost of producing the style is projected |
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The spec pack will be your__________ between partners throughout the product development process |
Communication |
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Patternmaking |
The interpretation of a garment from a sketch, photo, or another existing product into a paper representation template for use in production of a finished garment style |
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What is the garment that's constructed from the first pattern used for? |
Evaluate styling decisions |
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Turnaround Time |
the time frame required for completion of a garment from inception to delivery |
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What does 2-D pattern making include? |
1. drafting a pattern directly from measurements 2. flat pattern drafting which can be done by manipulating a basic pattern template or previously perfected pattern blocks 3. drafting a pattern from an existing garment |
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Draping |
3-D method of pattern making and was the first pattern making method to be developed |
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Flat-pattern |
involves making styling changes to previously developed and perfected pattern pieces |
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Block |
foundation pattern piece which may be used to develop new or more complex styles |
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What is the importance of blocks? |
They eliminate the need to go back and re-create each garment from scratch, making the pattern development and fitting process faster |
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Pattern drafting |
begins from scratch. body measurements are taken. then style lines and ease are added resulting in a 2-D paper pattern fro the design |
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Markers |
the layout pattern piece on the fabric |
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What is vendor that offers pattern development as a part of its sourcing services referred to as? |
Full package |
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Seconds/Irregulars |
Products that do not fit within tolerances and are rejected |
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What is the first phase of specdevelopment based on? |
The lineplan and the initial illustrations or prototype garments for specific styles
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Style summary sheet
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drawingsof the front and back of the style and a preliminary cost sheet with productcost estimates
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When does the next phase of productspec development occur?
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After astyle has been adopted and requires decisions as to how the garment will beproduced.
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Technicalspecs
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reflect detailed information regarding materials,including identification of specific fabrics, findings, and trims and theirquality requirements
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Cut,make, and trim (CMT):
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includes the process of actually manufacturing theproduct; literally it is cutting the fabric, sewing the garment together andapplying the trims.
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Operationslist
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identifies each step of constructions that will beperformed during production of the garment including the identification of thestitches and seams involved in completing the operations
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Sizing |
refers to the assignment of a particular body type into categories that reflect the body measurements of these in that size group |
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Why is sizing more complex with women? |
1. Changing fashion 2. Arbitrary sizing nomenclature 3. Evolving body type |
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What are the 4 dominant body types? |
1.Rectangle shape 2. Spoon shape 3. Inverted triangle 4. Hourglass |
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Grade |
the difference from once size to the next in a range |
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Vanity Sizing |
placing a smaller size label on a larger size garment |
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What is the difference between sizing and fit? |
Sizing is based on body measurements, whereas fit is based on garment measurements |
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What are the 5 elements of fit? |
Grain, set, line, balance, and ease |
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Seams |
Stitching that hold together pieces of pattern forms |
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Seam Allowance |
the extension between the row of stitching and the edges of the fabric |
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What are wide seam allowances a mark of ? |
Quality but they increase cost and create excessive bulk |
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Superimposed seams (SS) |
the most used seam class, formed by stacking piles of fabric on top of one another and stitching them together near the edge |
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Lapped Seams (LS) |
overlapping the seam allowances of two or more piles of fabric and sewing them together; the largest seam class |
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Original Equipment Manufacturing or Package Contractor (OEM) |
focuses on the manufacturing process; the vendor takes over the sourcing and financing of the material in addition to providing CMT production services finishing and packaging for the delivery of the customer |
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Functional performance |
relates to utility and durability |
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Utility |
can be explained as the products usefulness and be measured by fit, comfort, and care requirements |
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Durability |
products ability to retain its appearance after purchase, it can be measured by testing for things such as shrinkage, and seam strength |
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Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) |
requires conformance to specific criteria for flammability in fabrics used for infants and children's sleepwear |
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EU |
European Union |
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International Organization for Standardization (ISO) |
very strict requirements, if your firm is trying to compete internationally its best you learn these rules |
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Open Specifications |
allow for some latitude in tolerance; vendors have to be reliable if something doesn't go right |
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Closed Specification |
more detail and exact; this will guarantee that your item will be exactly as designed |
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Specification Library |
ability to go back and view spec books to use measurements, styles or patterns from previous garments to create a new one |
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What are the two organizations that testing methods come from? |
American Association of Textiles Chemist and Coloring (AATCC) American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) |
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American Association of Textiles Chemist and Coloring (AATCC) |
testing method for fabric coloration dyes, finishes and laundry methods; tested by application , use or measurement of moisture or other liquids. focuses on wet and chemical testing methods |
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American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) |
this form of testing is on performance of the product. most of their work is dry methods of testing; tested by application of stress and pressure such as elongation and strength |
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Federal Trade Commission(FTC) |
establishes and ministers mandatory labeling requirements |
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What are the four mandatory labeling requirements? |
fiber content, manufacturer identification, country of origin, and care |
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Direct Sourcing |
going directly to a production vendor here or abroad |
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Sourcing Agents |
using intermediaries whose primary task is management of supply chain activities |
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Trade fairs |
attending events expressly produced to bring customers and vendors together |
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Preliminary Costing |
Done before samples are made during the product development stage ; making estimates of the cost based on previous styles |
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Cost Estimating |
this occurs after samples are made; this offers companies a price point where they can measure expenditures (cost sheet) |
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Detailed costing |
this comes after the styles have been adopted in the line butbefore production. This costing is more accurate. Anything that was overlookedon the cost sheet will be picked up here also changes can be made to make sureyou stay in budget like if the skirt is long it may be cut down or the pocketson men's pants may be changed to a cheaper lining.
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Actual Cost |
thisis the costing that is done after production the most important of them all.This cost is determined by collecting all the data from production the actualcost of materials, price goods, trims, findings, labor, manufacturing etc.
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