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70 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
What is Oceanography?
An interdisciplinary science that studies the ocean
5 Components of Oceanography
Geological
Physical
Chemical
Biological
Management/Engineering
How many planets in the solar system?
Eight
When was the universe formed?
15 billion years ago
When was Earth formed?
4.5 billion years ago
_________ and _________ were how the planets were formed
density stratification & accretion
Sources of Water
Sources of Water - outgassing (gasses released from volcanic vents, remains as water vapor to create clouds & eventually rained) & comets (primarily tiny ice comets colliding with earth providing water)
Inner Planets
Made of heavier elements
high melting & boiling temps
& also called terrestrial planets
Outer Planets
made of lighter elements
low melting & boilint temps
& also called cold giants
Origin of Life - Essay
1. Define Life: grow, reproduce & obtain energy
2. Earth was formed 4.5 billion years ago
3. Water is an ideal medium for life because it a)retains heat b)moderates temp c)solvent and d)transports nutrients
4. primordial soup theory is most accepted (created from mixture of water vapor, ammonia, methane & hydrogen) through possible sources of energy (ultraviolet light, hydrothermal heat from ocean floor or an electric discharge)
5. Other hypothesis
a) primordial pizza
b) panspermia
What are the two drivers of Oceanic Exploration?
Military and Economic desires
1st Stage of OE
-Hunters & Gatherers became Fisherman

-1st vessels were made from plants and animals

-Did not venture far out; Stayed near the coast

-Egyptians were the first to use paddles & sails

-Greeks were good at charts & collecting data & their most important discovery was using the stars to give us latitude and longitude

-Ptolemy, also greek, was the first to charter the world

-All the Greeks info was stored in the Alexandria library
2nd Stage of OE
-driven by the need to conquer territory

-two civilizations were the vikings & chinese
-vikings: were good at building ships & they populated iceland, reached all the way to newfoundland but didn’t write anything down so they couldn’t prove that they were the first to reach north america, built their boats by trial and error;
-chinese: invented the compass, constructed huge ships of enormous mass but didn’t explore much, went back to their lands;

-europeans were in the dark ages & thought that the world was flat and thought the water near the equator was boiling
3rd Stage of OE
-europeans found all info in the alexandria lib during the crusades so they started to change their ideas
-wanted to establish new routes to asia
-portugal and spain were the first to venture out
-europe went from feudalism-->mercantilism
4th Stage of OE
-most important invention was the chronometer
-first voyage with james cook & he regulated the diet and used the chronometor
-voyage of the beagle with charles darwin, wrote theory of evolution
-challenger voyage - more than 4,000 species discovered
-john murry (considered father of oceanography), depthary measurements etc.
-first attempts to dive 19th century
5th Stage of OE
20th century --> beyond
WWI & WWII
-most important factors: submarine, sonar, radar, bathoscope (now they use one called alvin)
-mapped ocean floor to create telecommunications lines


Now 5% of ocean floor has been seen by the human eye, the rest hasn’t been seen because there is no economic benefit , to do an oceanographic exploration there always has to be a large team and money from the gov’t or a financial backer but there isn’t much money available for this type of science
1st organism
archea
Panspermia
life came from an ice comet
When was water formed?
3.7 billion years ago; oldest sedimentary rocks found
What two things are plate tectonics based on?
continental drift and seafloor spreading
How many plates is the earth's crust divided into?
7 major & 21 minor
-they are diverging converging & transforming
Alfred Wegner
first person to talk about continental drift
-german meteorologist
-said that 200 mill years ago there was a super continent called pangea and the continents eventually moved away
-based his hypothesis on meteorologic, geological & biological records
-was discarded because he couldn’t explain how the continents split, said it was due to rotation but that is impossible so his hypothesis was discarded
1930s
-several people started talking about what happens in the mantel
-convention cells in the mantel which could be the way that the continents drifted
When, why, how did they start mapping the ocean floor?
1950s
-so that they could lay telecommunication lines
-used sonar & radar & got sediment samples to test the age
What did they discover when they mapped the ocean floor?
-the sediment samples showed that in the middle of the ocean floor there was high seismic activity where the crust was young and away from the activity it was old
-this created the plate tectonics theory
Diverging Plates
mid-oceanic ridge
EX: iceland, red sea
Converging plates
ocean to ocean plates
-makes trenches
-oceanic crust made of basalt

Continental to continental
-mountain ranges
-made of granite, less dense than basalt

Ocean to continental
-mountains & trenches
-largest trench, Peru-Chile trench
Transforming Plates
San Andreas fault
Active slope
no rise, only slope
Active margin
also called pacific margin
-happens when two plates converge
Passive Margin
Continuous plate
-also called atlantic margin
Abyssal planes
the largest planes on earth and have unique water that has not mixed with other water in the ocean basin
Hydrothermal Vents
like underwater geysers
-only place on ocean floor with life
Sea Arc
Volcanic island that is no longer active
Primary Coasts
-modified by land processes
 
-Erosion: flooded glacier valleys (U) and flooded river valleys (V)

-Depositional: deltas, nile, mississippi
-Volcanic: hawaii, iceland

-Fault: california
Secondary Coasts
modified by marine processes..by two things:
1)physical erosion
2)chemical weathering (slowly dissolves the rock)

secondary coastal formation:
sea cliff
sea cave
sea arch
sea stack
beach
Coastal Cells
Mediterranean coastline has no functioning Coastal cells
Summer vs winter profiles
summer has a gentle slope and longshore bars, winter has steep slope & no longshore bars
Biologically modified coasts
coral reefs
mangroves
salt marsh
Human influences on coasts
Structures to prevent beach erosion 
Sea walls 
Groins 
Beach renourishment programs - type of accomodation; expensive; must consider things like people who live there, marine animals who live there and the type of sand
Coastal Issues - essay question
Two main problems
Coastal Erosion - produced by coastal development, increase in storms by global warming & the interruption of coastal cells
Oil Spills: damage to fisheries, widllife and recreation,

Three solutions
1) Retreat:
-no effort for protection of land from the sea
-coastalzone abandoned and ecosystems shift landward
-utilized if protection requires excessive environmental or economic impact.
-implications: communities suffer from loss of property, resettlement costs & costs of rebuilding infrastructure; could create major problems... environmental refugees might not be received, problems with adaptation, disruption of families, loss of traditions
2)Accommodate
-people continue to use the land at risk but do not prevent the land from being flooded
-emergency flood shelters, elevating buildings on piles, converting agriculture to fish farming, beach renourishment
-implications: change in property values, increasing damage from storms and costs for modifying structures; loss of traditional environments which sustain economies and cultures and provide for recreational needs
3)Protect
-hard structures, sea walls and dikes, or soft solutions, as dunes and vegetation
-implications: costs for the necessary structures, which protect economic development, but could adversely affect economic interests that depend on recreation and fisheries

-appropriate mechanism depends on the particular response
Creation of Atmosphere
Methane, ammonia, CO2, Water Vapor
-CO2 combines with water to form carbonic acid, this dissolves rocks, releases minerals (nutrients), essential building blocks of life
-Photosynthesis by bacteria evolved sometime during this period, green algae used CO2 for photosynthesis & added O2 unto the atmosphere
Ring of Fire
Volcanoes are also distributed in long belts that circle the Earth. A dramatic example is the line of volcanoes that circles most of the Pacific Ocean. This belt is known as the "Ring of Fire" because it is the site of frequent volcanic eruptions
Shore Straightening
refraction of waves thwoards headlands and away from bays eventually erodes headlands back
-sediment is deposited in the relatively calm bays
longshore current
moves sediment along the shore
-caused by the light angle of the waves with the shoreline
Sandspit
finger of sand that extends out into the entrance to a bay
-forms in the direction of the longshore current and is deposited as the longshore current loses velocity in the bay
-has a curled tip caused by the refraction of waves
bay mouth bar
sand spit that fully closes off the entrance to a bay
inlets
break in the bay mouth bar caused by tidal action
barrier island
exposed sandbars that run parallel to the coast
-thought to be submerged dunes of a lower sea level
-moving islands; migrating both toward the shore and parallel to the longhshore current
-usually low relief (few meters above sea level)
-usaually flooded during winter storms
lagoon
shallow body of seawater between the barrier island and the shore
Coastal Issues - essay question
Two main problems
Coastal Erosion - produced by coastal development, increase in storms by global warming & the interruption of coastal cells
Oil Spills: damage to fisheries, widllife and recreation,

Three solutions
1) Retreat:
-no effort for protection of land from the sea
-coastalzone abandoned and ecosystems shift landward
-utilized if protection requires excessive environmental or economic impact.
-implications: communities suffer from loss of property, resettlement costs & costs of rebuilding infrastructure; could create major problems... environmental refugees might not be received, problems with adaptation, disruption of families, loss of traditions
2)Accommodate
-people continue to use the land at risk but do not prevent the land from being flooded
-emergency flood shelters, elevating buildings on piles, converting agriculture to fish farming, beach renourishment
-implications: change in property values, increasing damage from storms and costs for modifying structures; loss of traditional environments which sustain economies and cultures and provide for recreational needs
3)Protect
-hard structures, sea walls and dikes, or soft solutions, as dunes and vegetation
-implications: costs for the necessary structures, which protect economic development, but could adversely affect economic interests that depend on recreation and fisheries

-appropriate mechanism depends on the particular response
Creation of Atmosphere
Methane, ammonia, CO2, Water Vapor
-CO2 combines with water to form carbonic acid, this dissolves rocks, releases minerals (nutrients), essential building blocks of life
-Photosynthesis by bacteria evolved sometime during this period, green algae used CO2 for photosynthesis & added O2 unto the atmosphere
Ring of Fire
Volcanoes are also distributed in long belts that circle the Earth. A dramatic example is the line of volcanoes that circles most of the Pacific Ocean. This belt is known as the "Ring of Fire" because it is the site of frequent volcanic eruptions
Shore Straightening
refraction of waves thwoards headlands and away from bays eventually erodes headlands back
-sediment is deposited in the relatively calm bays
longshore current
moves sediment along the shore
-caused by the light angle of the waves with the shoreline
Sandspit
finger of sand that extends out into the entrance to a bay
-forms in the direction of the longshore current and is deposited as the longshore current loses velocity in the bay
-has a curled tip caused by the refraction of waves
bay mouth bar
sand spit that fully closes off the entrance to a bay
inlets
break in the bay mouth bar caused by tidal action
barrier island
exposed sandbars that run parallel to the coast
-thought to be submerged dunes of a lower sea level
-moving islands; migrating both toward the shore and parallel to the longhshore current
-usually low relief (few meters above sea level)
-usaually flooded during winter storms
lagoon
shallow body of seawater between the barrier island and the shore
Big Bang Theory
Big Bang- 15 billion years ago (bya)- expansion on the universe from a single point, smaller that an atom.
Based on:
1917 when Albert Einstein developed his General Theory of Relativity; the universe is expanding or contracting.
1920 when Edwin Hubble discovered that the universe was expanding. This is known as the Doppler effect.
A shock wave from a nearby exploding star, made it spin
Spinning and gravitational attraction- condensation of matter, increases spinning and gravitational attraction and thereby attracting more matter.
Eventually sun and planets former via accretion of materials
Big Bang Theory
Big Bang- 15 billion years ago (bya)- expansion on the universe from a single point, smaller that an atom.
Based on:
1917 when Albert Einstein developed his General Theory of Relativity; the universe is expanding or contracting.
1920 when Edwin Hubble discovered that the universe was expanding. This is known as the Doppler effect.
A shock wave from a nearby exploding star, made it spin
Spinning and gravitational attraction- condensation of matter, increases spinning and gravitational attraction and thereby attracting more matter.
Eventually sun and planets former via accretion of materials
Crust
thin layer of solid rock
Crust
thin layer of solid rock
Mantle
hot, partly molten layer, made up of thick heavy material
isn't solid, crust "floats" on top
Mantle
hot, partly molten layer, made up of thick heavy material
isn't solid, crust "floats" on top
Outer Core
molten mass of mostly iron
Outer Core
molten mass of mostly iron
Inner Core
Large ball of iron and nickle
Inner Core
Large ball of iron and nickle