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181 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Gases around the planet
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78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 1% other (carbon dioxide, argon, methane)
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Warm air...
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rises, expands, causes low pressure, usually means rain/precipitation, cools
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Cold air...
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sinks, compresses, causes high pressure, usually means warm/dry, warms
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Air moves from (higher/lower) pressures to (higher/lower) pressures
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higher; lower
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Tropics have (warm/cold), (more, less) dense air
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warm; less
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Air (expands/compresses) as you get to higher elevations
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expands
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(High/Low) pressure at the poles
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high
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Earth spins (eastward/westward)
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eastward
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Earth spins (faster/slower) closer to the equator and (faster/slower) close to the north or south poles
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faster; slower
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Corliolis Force
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Moving objects are deflected from their original path. They're going to either move to the left or the right, depending on the hemisphere.
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Corliolis Force: In the Northern hemisphere, the object would be deflected toward the (left/right) with a (clockwise/counterclockwise) current rotation
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right; clockwise
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Corliolis Force: In the Southern hemisphere, the object would be deflected toward the (left/right) with a (clockwise/counterclockwise) rotation
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left; counterclockwise
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ITCZ
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Inter-tropical convergence zone. Meteorological equator that fluctuates with seasons
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Northern winter, ITCZ is (north/south) of the equator
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south
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Northern summer, ITCZ is (north/south) of the equator
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north
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Earth is tilted _____ degrees
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23.5
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Vernal equinox
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equal night and day hours
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Measured either crest to crest or trough to trough
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wavelength
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Distance between crest and trough
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wave height
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If wave steepness is exceeded, the wave __________
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breaks
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When the wave breaks, it (gains/loses) energy
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loses
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Amplitude
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H/2
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Time between adjacent wave crests passing a fixed point
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wave period
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Orbitals: The energy is moving (forward/backward) at the crest, but going (forwards/backwards) at the trough
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forward; backwards
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The diameter of the top most orbital is the same as the __________
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wave height
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Wave base
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wavelength/2
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Longitudinal/internal waves
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Common at the pycnocline, these aid in mixing the oceans
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Progressive waves/Ocean wind waves
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Surface wave. They do not lose energy until they break
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Seiches /Standing wave
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Surface wave. Common to enclosed or semi-enclosed basins. Has a node in the middle that never moves, and antinodes to either side of it that move the full height of the wave
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Capillary wave
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wavelength equal to or less than 1.73 cm
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Restoring force for capillary waves
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surface tension/hydrogen bonds
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Frequency
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The number of wave crests passing a fixed point in a given duration of time. F = 1/T
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Disturbing force for tides
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gravity from the moon and sun
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Restoring force for tides, tsunamis, and seiches
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gravity
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The tides are considered __________ water waves
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shallow
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Once waves get to wavelength/20, they get to be __________ orbits
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elliptical
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Celerity for shallow water wave
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celerity = (gravity * depth) ^1/2
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Celerity for deep water waves
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celerity = (gravity * wavelength/2pi) ^ 1/2 OR celerity = wavelength/time
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Region under the storm that generates the swell
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sea
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Organized waves leaving the sea area
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swell
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In order to determine maximum wave height in the fully developed sea, we need to know...
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1) wind speed 2) wind duration (how long the wind is blowing for) 3) fetch, which is equivalent to the area under the storm
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Constructive wave interference
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Wave A and wave B have the same wavelength and are "in phase", causing a wave with twice the height.
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Destructive wave interference
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Wave A and wave B have the same wavelength, but they are "out of phase", producing flat water.
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Mixed wave interference
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Wave A has long period waves while wave B has short period but a high frequency. They have different wavelengths. This results in some point being constructive and some destructive, which causes a rogue wave.
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Earth spins under the __________
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tide bulges
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The earth and moon spin around each other in space around the __________
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barrycenter
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CE
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center of mass
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CM
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center of mass of moon
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A lunar day is about _____ hours and _____ minutes
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24; 50
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The lunar month is _____ days
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29.53
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Spring tides
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Occur twice a month, once during the new moon and once during the full moon. It happens when the earth, sun, and moon are parallel, resulting in the largest tides.
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Solar and lunar tides are __________ wave interference
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constructive
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Neap tides
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Occur twice a month, once during the first quarter moon and once during the third quarter moon. It happens when the earth, sun, and moon make a 90 degree angle, resulting in mixed and lower wave interference.
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Diurnal tide
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One high tide and one low tide per day. They occur in semi-enclosed basins.
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Semidurmal tides
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Two high tides and two low tides of nearly the same tide range.
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Mixed tides
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Two high tides and two low tides, with the morning tide range significantly different than the afternoon tide range.
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Marine mammals: Phylum __________ Class __________
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chordata; mammalia
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Three orders of marine mammals
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1) ceteacea 2) carnivora 3) sirenia
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All marine mammals show evolutionary links to __________
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terristrialorganisms
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Marine mammals are (warm/cold) blooded
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warm (endothermic)
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Marine mammals produce more heat than land mammals because of their __________
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advanced metabolic system
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Marine mammals tend to conserve heat using their __________
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layers of fat or fur
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The only marine mammal to use fur as a primary source of conserving heat
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sea otter
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Marine mammal's osmotic pressure adaptations
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They can avoid hypertonic affects because their kidneys can extract that salt and produce highly saline urine
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Marine mammals use oxygen from their __________ and __________ for breathing
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blood; muscle tissue
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Cannot roate hind limbs under body. Has claws at the end of it's flippers
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harbor seal
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Polar bears are located in the __________
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North Atlantic
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Baleen plates are made of __________
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keratin
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Example of a mudsucker
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California grey whale
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Eustatic change
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a global change in sea level
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Pleistocene Epoch
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iceages
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Holocene Epoch
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10,000 years to present
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Causes of sea level rising
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1) climate change 2) rate of seafloor spreading 3) rate of sedimentation
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When glaciers advance, we call it a __________ period
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glacial
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When glaciers retreat, we call it the __________ period
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interglacial
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If you we to completely melt the 2 continental glaciers, you would see about a _____ ft rise in sea level
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120
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Erosional coasts
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Secondary coasts. Have been modified since the sea level last stabilized. Usually have headlands, coves, sea stacks, and sea arches.
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Depositional coasts
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Primary coasts. Haven't changed too much since sea level last stabilized.
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River valleys are said to be _-shaped, but for the glacial valleys, they're said to be _-shaped.
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V; U
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Volcanic coasts
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Are primary coasts as they've formed recently, so there's been little time to erode them
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Fault bounded coasts
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continuous tectonic movement, also primary
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Deltas
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primary coast
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Wave dominated delta
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It’s going to have sand bars parallel to the wave energy. A classic example of this one is the Nile River. The wave energy coming in here pushes up the sand bars so that it’s parallel to the wave. The sand bars are going to be parallel to the cost line.
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Tide dominated delta
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Sand bars are perpendicular to the coast line. There’s the Colorado River.
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River dominated delta
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This one is also known as the Bird-Foot Delta because it looks like a chicken foot on the map. A classic one for this is the Mississippi River. The river will actually extend quite some distance in the bay or the ocean. Prograding delta.
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Morain
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A hill, a ridge of glacial material left behind by a glacier. The material is called till or tillite. This is anything plucked, carried, and dropped off by glaciers.
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The top of glaciers are __________ while the ice down at the base is __________
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brittle; ductile
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Zone of wastage
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the area in which the ice berg is melting
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Zone of accumulation
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the area in the glacier where ice is accumulating
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Terminal morain
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farthest out
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End morain
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closest to the ice
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Recessional morain
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between the terminal and the end morain
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Marine terraces form by
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1) sea level change 2) local tectonic uplift
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Since 1880, sea level has risen _____ inches
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8
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By 2100, sea level is expected to rise an additional _____ to _____ ft
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1; 4
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A current that parallels the coast line due to wave refraction
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long shore current
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Sand that move along shore lines
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long shore drift
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Material in transport
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beach
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Starts as a regular beach, but erosion causes the formation of a cliff
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wave-cut bench
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Characteristics of a summer beach
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A lot more sand, big berm, wave cut platform going out to the notch
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Characteristics of a winter beach
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A lot less sand, more slanted sea cliff, more off shore sand bars
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A sand bar that is going to close off either a river inlet, estuary, or bay
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bay mouth bar
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Sand bar that partially covers an inlet
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spit
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Offshore sand bars that are higher than sea level
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barrier islands
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Physical resources of the ocean
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oils, gasses, sand, gravel, salts
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CaSO4
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gypsum
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MgSO4
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epson salt
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kCl
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syluite
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NaCl
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halite
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Biological resources of the ocean
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fish, crustaceans, mollusks
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Marine aquaculture
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grow sea food in a closed location
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Marine energy resources
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wave energy, wind turbines, tide energy, heat exchange
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Non-extractive ocean resources
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boating, shipping lanes, recreation, tourism
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Maximum sustainable yield
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How much fish can be taken while still leaving enough adults for future stock. 100 to 135 million metric tons
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Overfished
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exceeding MSY
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Bykill
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a non-target species caught in fishing nets
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Largest portion of fish are taken on __________
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shelves
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Issue with trawlers
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destroys benthic community
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Mid-trawl
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does not have a bottom weight
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Farm shrimping destroys the __________
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mangrove forests
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The two countries that still hunt whales
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Norway and Japan
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Mariculture
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marine farming in estuaries or bays
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Eclusine economic zone
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every country owns their coastal waters, extended out 200 nautical miles
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After animals get covered in oil, they are __________
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narcotized
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Crude oil
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Petroleum extracted from rocks. Naturally occurring and biodegradable.
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Refined oil
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Added chemicals foreign to environment. May not be biodegradable.
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Runoff makes up _____% of pollution that enters the ocean
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44
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Accidental spills make up _____% of pollution that enters the ocean
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12
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3 criteria for pollutants
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1) quantity 2) toxicity 3) persistence
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Metals are being stored in body fat and they don’t get processed, so in higher order, they increase
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biological amplification
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The heavy metals
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lead, mercury, copper, tin
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Sources of heavy metals
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coal, electric utilities, steel and iron manufacturing
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Most toxic and persistent pollutant
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synthetic organic molecules
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Stimulates the growth of some species and upsets the natural balance of an ocean area
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eutrophication
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HAB
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harmful algal bloom
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Phytoplankton
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diatoms, coccolithophores, dinoflagellates
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Zooplankton
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foraminifera, radiolarieans, copeopods, krill, jellies, marine larvae
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Diatoms
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SiO2 opal glass walls
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Coccolithophores
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CaCO3 discs
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Dinoflagellates
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cellulose
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Foraminifera
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CaCO3 shells
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Radiolarians
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SiO2 shells
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Cetaceans
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whales, dolphins, porpoises
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Carnivores
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sea otter, polar bear, pinnipeds
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Sirenids
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manatees, sea cows, dugongs
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Eared seals
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sea lions, fur seals, walruses, leopard seals
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True seal
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harbor seals, elephant seals
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Odontoceti
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toothed whales, killer whale, sperm whale, dolphins, porpoises, have one blow hole
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Mysticeti
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baleen whales, blue whale, finback whale, humpback whale, gray whale
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Eschrichtiidae
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mudsuckers, gray whale
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Balaenopteridae
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rorqual whales, blue whale, finback whale, minke whale
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Balaenidae
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right whale, surface skimmers
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Between 0 degrees and 30 degrees
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trade winds
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Between 30 degrees and 60 degrees
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westerlies
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Between 60 degrees and 90 degrees
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easterlies
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Cell between 0 degrees and 30 degrees
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hadley
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Cell between 30 degrees and 60 degrees
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ferrel
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Cell between 60 degrees and 90 degrees
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polar
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A wave in water less than one-twentieth its wavelength
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shallow water wave
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Highest part of a progressive wave above still water line
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wave crest
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A wave in which water oscillates without causing progressive wave forward movement
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standing wave
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The dominant force acting to return water to flatness after formation of a wave
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restoring force
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A term used to define the confused mass of agitated water rushing shoreward during and after a wind wave break
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surf
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A device that is mounted on the sea floor, designed to weight that water that passes over it, as a measure of wave height
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pressure sensor
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Vertical distance of wave measured from trough to crest
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wave height
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Movement of waves around obstacles
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wave diffraction
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Mature wind waves of one wavelength that form orderly undulations
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swell
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Progressive waves occurring at the boundary between liquids of different densities
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internal wave
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A wave moving energy in which the wave form moves in one direction along the surface of the transmission medium
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progressive wave
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A wave with L greater than 1.73 cm, whose restoring force is gravity and momentum
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gravity wave
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A single wave crest much higher than usual, caused by constructive interference
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rogue wave
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A strong, fast current formed by the seaward return flow of surf
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rip current
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The bouncing of progressive waves by a vertical barrier. Reflection occurs with little loss of energy
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wave reflection
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A term used to describe simultaneous wind waves of many wavelengths, forming a chaotic ocean surface where many waves are formed
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sea
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Height to wavelength ratio of 1:7
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wave steepness
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Gravity wave formed by transfer of wind energy onto sea
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wind wave
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A group of waves similar wavelength and period moving in the same direction across ocean surface
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wave train
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Slowing and bending of progressive wave in shallow water
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wave refraction
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The horizontal distance between successive wave crests or troughs
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wavelength
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How fast the energy of a progressive wave is moving forward
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wave celerity
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The valley between wave crests
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wave trough
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