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16 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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The movement of energy through a body of water.
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wave (or water wave)
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The highest part of a wave.
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crest
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The number of waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time.
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wave frequency
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The lowest part of a wave.
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trough
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The waves that fall and crash on to an ocean shore.
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breakers
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The distance from a point on one wave to the identical point on the next wave.
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wave length
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The rush of water going out to sea underneath a breaker coming to shore.
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undertow
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The up and down distance between the crest and trough of a wave.
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wave height
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Waves in water whose depth is less than one half their wavelength.
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shallow water waves
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The amount of time it takes between the crest of one wave passing a certain point and the crest of the next wave passing the same point.
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wave period
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A wave that forms far below the ocean's surface by a strong disturbance, usually an earthquake.
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tsunami
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Type of waves caused by wind.
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surface waves
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3 causes of tsunami.
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earthquake
volcano underwater landslide (asteroid hitting ocean) |
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Waves that form in water deeper than 1/2 their wavelength.
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Deep water waves.
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The 2 factors that determine the size of surface waves.
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1 - the strength of the wind
2 - the length of time the wind blows. |
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The foamy water that rushes up and back from the beach after a wave breaks, carrying sand and other beach material with it.
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surf (or swash)
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