Ocean Process

Front 1

Shoreline

Back 1

contact between land and sea.

Front 2

Shore

Back 2

area between lowest tidal level and highest areas affected by storm waves

Front 3

coastline

Back 3

the seaward edge of the coast

Front 4

beach

Back 4

accumulation of sediment along the landward margin of the ocean.

Front 5

Crest

Back 5

Highest part of the wave

Front 6

Trough

Back 6

Lowest part of the wave

Front 7

Wave height

Back 7

the distance between a trough and a creast.

Front 8

wavelength

Back 8

the horizontal distance between successoives crests

Front 9

wave period

Back 9

the time interval for one full wave to pass a fixed position

Front 10

fetch

Back 10

the distance that the wind travels

Front 11

At what depth does the movement of water particles become negligible

Back 11

About one-half of the wavelength.

Front 12

What are the 3 causes of wave erosion

Back 12

-Wave impact and pressure
-Breaks down rock material and supplies sand
-Abrasion-sawing and grinding action of water armed with rock fragments.

Front 13

Where does wave energy move the sand

Back 13

Parallel and perpendicular to the shoreline

Front 14

Wave refraction

Back 14

Bending of a wave

Front 15

Beach drift

Back 15

sediment moves in a zigzag pattern along hte beach face

Front 16

Longshore current

Back 16

-current in surf zone
-flows parallel to the shore
-Moves substantially more sediment than beach drift

Front 17

List 5 erosional features

Back 17

-wave-cut cliff
-wave-cut platform
-marine terraces
-sea arch
-sea stack

Front 18

List 4 depositional features

Back 18

-Spit
-Baymouth Bar
-Tombolo
-Barrier Island

Front 19

Spit

Back 19

A ridge of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay with an end that ofter hooks landward

Front 20

Baymouth Bar

Back 20

A sand bar that completerly crosses a bay

Front 21

Tombolo

Back 21

A ridge of sand that connects as island to the mainland

Front 22

Barrier Island

Back 22

Mainly along the Atlantic and Gulf Coast
Parellels the Coast
Originate in several ways

Front 23

What 5 local factors influence shoreline erosion

Back 23

-Proximity to sediment-laden rivers.
-Degree of tectonic activity
-topography and composition of the land
-Prevailing wind and weather patterns.
Configuaration of the coastline

Front 24

Hard Stabilization structures

Back 24

-Groins
-Breakwaters
-Seawalls

Front 25

Groins

Back 25

Barriers built at a right angle to the beach that are designed to trap sand

Front 26

Longshore current

Back 26

-current in surf zone
-flows parallel to the shore
-Moves substantially more sediment than beach drift

Front 27

List 5 erosional features

Back 27

-wave-cut cliff
-wave-cut platform
-marine terraces
-sea arch
-sea stack

Front 28

List 4 depositional features

Back 28

-Spit
-Baymouth Bar
-Tombolo
-Barrier Island

Front 29

Spit

Back 29

A ridge of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay with an end that ofter hooks landward

Front 30

Baymouth Bar

Back 30

A sand bar that completerly crosses a bay

Front 31

Tombolo

Back 31

A ridge of sand that connects as island to the mainland

Front 32

Barrier Island

Back 32

Mainly along the Atlantic and Gulf Coast
Parellels the Coast
Originate in several ways

Front 33

What 5 local factors influence shoreline erosion

Back 33

-Proximity to sediment-laden rivers.
-Degree of tectonic activity
-topography and composition of the land
-Prevailing wind and weather patterns.
Configuaration of the coastline

Front 34

Hard Stabilization structures

Back 34

-Groins
-Breakwaters
-Seawalls

Front 35

Groins

Back 35

Barriers built at a right angle to the beach that are designed to trap sand

Front 36

Breakwaters

Back 36

Barriers built offshore and parallel to the coast to protect boats from breaking waves.

Front 37

Seawalls

Back 37

Armors the coast againt the fore of breaking waves

Front 38

Alternatives to hard stabiliaztion

Back 38

-Beach norishment by adding sand
-Relocating buildings away from the beach.

Front 39

What causes an emergent coast?

Back 39

-uplift of the land, or
-a drop in sea level

Front 40

What are the features of an emergent coast

Back 40

wave-cut cliffs
Marine terraces

Front 41

What are the causes of a submergent coast

Back 41

-Land adjacent to sea subsides, or
-sea level rises

Front 42

What are the features of a submergent coast

Back 42

Highly irregular shoreline
estuaries

Front 43

Estuary

Back 43

drowned river mouths

Front 44

What is a tide?

Back 44

-Changes in elevation of the ocean
-cuased by the gravitational forces exerted upon Earth by the moon and Sun.

Front 45

Spring Tide

Back 45

-During new and full moons
-gravitational forces added together.
-Especially high and low tides
-Large daily tidal range

Front 46

Neap Tide

Back 46

-First and third quarters of the Moon
-Gravitational forces are offset
-Daily tidal range is least

Front 47

What are the three tidal patterns

Back 47

Diurnal tidal pattern
Semidiurnal tidal pattern
Mixed Tidal Pattern

Front 48

Diurnal tidal pattern

Back 48

A single high and low tide each tidal day
-Occurs along the northern shore of the Gulf of Mexico

Front 49

Semidiurnal tidal pattern

Back 49

-Two high and two low tides each tidal day
-little difference in the high and low water heights
-common along the Atlantic Coast of the United States.

Front 50

Mixed Tidal patterns

Back 50

-Two high and two low waters each day
-Large inequality in high water heights; low water heights, or both.
-Prevalent along the Pacific Coast of the United States

Front 51

What are the two types of tidal currents

Back 51

Flood Current
Ebb Current

Front 52

Flood Current

Back 52

advances into the coastal zone

Front 53

Ebb current

Back 53

seaward moving water