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21 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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What are waves?
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the disturbance caused by the movement of ENERGY through a medium
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What is the disturbing force that causes waves?
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Wind
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What is the restoring force of waves?
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Gravity which returns waves to "flatness"
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movement of waves?
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Water particles move in circular orbits (orbitals)
Forward on the crest Backward in the trough |
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Wave speed=
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C= L/T (wavelength/period)
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What defines a deep water, transitional and shallow water wave?
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Deep water waves= deeper than L/2
Shallow water waves= shallower than L/20 transition waves are between L/2 and L/20 |
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Factors that will affect wave height?
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-wind speed
-wind duration -wind fetch (distance for which contact occurs) |
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Seas vs swells
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Seas- irregular, chaotic waves
Swells- regular, allign according to wavelength |
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Largest wave ever recorded
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112 feet (10 stories)
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what kind of wave caused it?
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Rogue wave- waves made by constructive ineterference
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how do waves travel?
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in groups like a catepillar... short waves first then longer waves...
wave groups moves half as fast as each individual wave…. |
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When a wave approaches a shore what happens to
-speed of the wave -period of the wave -height of the wave -wavelength of the wave |
Speed decreases
PERIOD NEVER CHANGES Height increases until the wave breaks wavelength decreases |
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When does a wave break?
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when H/L < 1/7
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What are the three types of surf?
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Spillers-waves build slowly (Florida)
plungers- BEST FOR SURFING Spurgers- waves break to quick on the beach |
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what is wave refraction?
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bending of the wave when one side reaches the bottom. This causes waves to come into the beach parallel.
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what is wave reflection?
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when the angle of the wave coming in is equal to that of it going out.
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What is wave diffraction?
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Waves bending around objects
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What is a seiche?
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"standing wave" that sloshes back and forth. Usually due to quick atmospheric pressure changes.
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What is a tsunami?
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Waves generated when water in a lake or sea is rapidly displaced by one of several events.
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What events can cause displacement of enough water to cause a tsunami?
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underwater fault movement (most common)
Avalanche Volcanic eruptions meteorite impacts rock/land slides |
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Tsunamis are
-speed -height -shore |
It can travel up to 500 mpH in open waters. IT is a shallow water wave but a wave does form on shore because of the large volum displaced.
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