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21 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
What are waves?
the disturbance caused by the movement of ENERGY through a medium
What is the disturbing force that causes waves?
What is the restoring force of waves?
Gravity which returns waves to "flatness"
movement of waves?
Water particles move in circular orbits (orbitals)
Forward on the crest
Backward in the trough
Wave speed=
C= L/T (wavelength/period)
What defines a deep water, transitional and shallow water wave?
Deep water waves= deeper than L/2

Shallow water waves= shallower than L/20

transition waves are between L/2 and L/20
Factors that will affect wave height?
-wind speed
-wind duration
-wind fetch (distance for which contact occurs)
Seas vs swells
Seas- irregular, chaotic waves

Swells- regular, allign according to wavelength
Largest wave ever recorded
112 feet (10 stories)
what kind of wave caused it?
Rogue wave- waves made by constructive ineterference
how do waves travel?
in groups like a catepillar... short waves first then longer waves...

wave groups moves half as fast as each individual wave….
When a wave approaches a shore what happens to

-speed of the wave
-period of the wave
-height of the wave
-wavelength of the wave
Speed decreases
Height increases until the wave breaks
wavelength decreases
When does a wave break?
when H/L < 1/7
What are the three types of surf?
Spillers-waves build slowly (Florida)


Spurgers- waves break to quick on the beach
what is wave refraction?
bending of the wave when one side reaches the bottom. This causes waves to come into the beach parallel.
what is wave reflection?
when the angle of the wave coming in is equal to that of it going out.
What is wave diffraction?
Waves bending around objects
What is a seiche?
"standing wave" that sloshes back and forth. Usually due to quick atmospheric pressure changes.
What is a tsunami?
Waves generated when water in a lake or sea is rapidly displaced by one of several events.
What events can cause displacement of enough water to cause a tsunami?
underwater fault movement (most common)

Volcanic eruptions
meteorite impacts
rock/land slides
Tsunamis are

It can travel up to 500 mpH in open waters. IT is a shallow water wave but a wave does form on shore because of the large volum displaced.