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39 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
CT Development Time |
15mins with heat. 20mins without heat. |
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CT Relights Development Time |
5-10mins Blondes. 15-20mins Reds. |
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Illumina development time. |
Same depth or darker 30-40mins without heat. 15-25mins with heat. Or 20mins lightening without heat. |
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KP Gray Coverage Formulating: |
25% Natural + 75% Target 50% Natural + 50% Target |
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KP Development Time: |
30-40mins Without Heat. 15-25mins With Heat. |
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KP Highlift Development Time: |
50-60mins without heat. 25-35mins with heat. |
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Pastel Developer: |
Mixed 1:2 ratio, tones prelightened hair le els 9 and 10. |
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10 Volume |
3% - used to go darker or color balancing. |
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20 Volume |
6% - ideal for gray/white coverage, level on level, or 1 level of lift. |
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30 Volume |
9% - Lightening up to 2 levels. |
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40 Volume |
12% - Lightening up to 3-4 levels. |
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Cortex |
Innermost layer of hair; it is where melanin lives and determines your hair color. |
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Cuticle |
Outside layer of hairshaft; determines hair porosity. |
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Magma |
Mixing ratio 1:1.5, blondes process 15-40mins, reds process 30-60mins, for natural and color treated hair levels 2-7. |
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Level 10 |
Lightest Blonde, underlying pigment of very pale yellow canceled out by violet. |
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Level 9 |
Very Light Blonde, underlying pigment of pale yellow canceled out by violet. |
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Level 8 |
Light Blonde, underlying pigment of yellow canceled out by Violet or Red-Violet. |
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Level 7 |
Medium Blonde, underlying pigment of orange-yellow canceled out by blue-violet. |
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Leverl 6 |
Dark Blonde, underlying pigment of orange canceled out by blue. |
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Level 5 |
Light Brown, underlying pigment of red-orange canceled out by blue-green. |
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Level 4 |
Medium Brown, underlying pigment of brown. |
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Level 3 |
Dark Brown, underlying pigment of Brown. |
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Level 2 |
Darket Brown, underlying pigment of black. |
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Texture is and measured by: |
Measured by the diameter of the hair, determines processing time, is considered very coarse, coarse, average, fine, or very fine. |
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Think F.A.S.T |
Formulation, Application, Starting Point (natural level), Timing |
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Five Finger Rule |
Redder, Coarser, Lighter, Whiter, Five minutes longer! |
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Primary Colors |
Red, Yellow, Blue |
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Secondary Colors |
Green, Orange, Violet |
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Porosity is considered: |
Very Resistant, Resistant, Normal, Porous, or Very Porous. |
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Color I.D. formulating: |
Color I.D. used is 10% of the developer. Example: 10g Color + 10g Developer + 1g Color I.D. |
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Eumelanin |
Black/Brown, larger pigment, asher, and determines depth. |
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Pheomelanin |
Red/Yellow pigment, smaller pigment, determines tone. |
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B.R.O.Y |
Underlying pigment as you lift: Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow. |
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Warm vs. Cool |
Warm colors reflect light, Cool colors absorb light. |
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Depth |
Indicates how light or dark. |
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Tone |
Indicates the tonal character of the shade. |
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Porous hair will... |
Absorb ash and reject warmth. |
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Color Touch info: |
Mixed 1:2, demi color lasting 4-6 weeks, sits outside the cuticle, oxidative, has glitter pigments. |
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KP info: |
Permanent color, oxidative, color sits in the cortex to replace natural pigment. |