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39 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

CT Development Time

15mins with heat.


20mins without heat.

CT Relights Development Time

5-10mins Blondes.


15-20mins Reds.

Illumina development time.

Same depth or darker 30-40mins without heat. 15-25mins with heat. Or 20mins lightening without heat.

KP Gray Coverage Formulating:

25% Natural + 75% Target


50% Natural + 50% Target

KP Development Time:

30-40mins Without Heat.


15-25mins With Heat.

KP Highlift Development Time:

50-60mins without heat.


25-35mins with heat.

Pastel Developer:

Mixed 1:2 ratio, tones prelightened hair le els 9 and 10.

10 Volume

3% - used to go darker or color balancing.

20 Volume

6% - ideal for gray/white coverage, level on level, or 1 level of lift.

30 Volume

9% - Lightening up to 2 levels.

40 Volume

12% - Lightening up to 3-4 levels.

Cortex

Innermost layer of hair; it is where melanin lives and determines your hair color.

Cuticle

Outside layer of hairshaft; determines hair porosity.

Magma

Mixing ratio 1:1.5, blondes process 15-40mins, reds process 30-60mins, for natural and color treated hair levels 2-7.

Level 10

Lightest Blonde, underlying pigment of very pale yellow canceled out by violet.

Level 9

Very Light Blonde, underlying pigment of pale yellow canceled out by violet.

Level 8

Light Blonde, underlying pigment of yellow canceled out by Violet or Red-Violet.

Level 7

Medium Blonde, underlying pigment of orange-yellow canceled out by blue-violet.

Leverl 6

Dark Blonde, underlying pigment of orange canceled out by blue.

Level 5

Light Brown, underlying pigment of red-orange canceled out by blue-green.

Level 4

Medium Brown, underlying pigment of brown.

Level 3

Dark Brown, underlying pigment of Brown.

Level 2

Darket Brown, underlying pigment of black.

Texture is and measured by:

Measured by the diameter of the hair, determines processing time, is considered very coarse, coarse, average, fine, or very fine.

Think F.A.S.T

Formulation, Application, Starting Point (natural level), Timing

Five Finger Rule

Redder, Coarser, Lighter, Whiter, Five minutes longer!

Primary Colors

Red, Yellow, Blue

Secondary Colors

Green, Orange, Violet

Porosity is considered:

Very Resistant, Resistant, Normal, Porous, or Very Porous.

Color I.D. formulating:

Color I.D. used is 10% of the developer. Example: 10g Color + 10g Developer + 1g Color I.D.

Eumelanin

Black/Brown, larger pigment, asher, and determines depth.

Pheomelanin

Red/Yellow pigment, smaller pigment, determines tone.

B.R.O.Y

Underlying pigment as you lift: Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow.

Warm vs. Cool

Warm colors reflect light, Cool colors absorb light.

Depth

Indicates how light or dark.

Tone

Indicates the tonal character of the shade.

Porous hair will...

Absorb ash and reject warmth.

Color Touch info:

Mixed 1:2, demi color lasting 4-6 weeks, sits outside the cuticle, oxidative, has glitter pigments.

KP info:

Permanent color, oxidative, color sits in the cortex to replace natural pigment.