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50 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
Tides are caused by
moons gravity, with help from the sun
Netwons equilibrium theory is more complex and explains more of the variables in tides than does Laplace's dynamic theory.
Besides lunar and solar gravity, influnces on the tides inclue
Eath isnt spherical, season, ocean basin shape, and Coriolis effect
Amphidromic points are
points with no net water motion around which tides occur
A single high and low tides is called a __ tide. Two unequal high and low tides daily is called a ___.
diurnal, mixed
Tidal currents are incoming tide flow. Tidal bore is outgoing tidal flow.
F. Tidal currents are the ingoing and outgoing currents Tidal bore is a wave moving through a narrow area.
During ___ tides the sun and moon align relative to Earth. During __ tides, they are at right angles to Earth.
spring, neap
Waves break
when H:L ratio exceeds 1:7, when they reach a depth 1:3 times the wave height, in deep water at the right circumstances
Wave ___ tends to bend waves parallel to shore or toward a protrusion. Wave ___ caused wave energy to bounce back toward open water.
refreaction, reflection
A standing wave is
vertical wave that doesnt travel, but has a trough and crest that alternate
Storm surges are caused by
heavy winds
When a wind wave breaks n shore,
contact with the bottom decreases the wavelength and increaes height, top of wave is faster than bottom, H:L exceeds 1:7, and water depth is 1:3 times the height
Seiches are caused by
earthquakes, heavy winds
Tsunamis are caused by
earthquakes, landslides
Tsunamis are shallow waves because
they have long wavelength but no water is deep enough for them to be deep waves
Tsunamis dont destroy boats bc
their periods are so long, ships rse and fall very slowly
An ocean wave is an energy transmission that moves matter along with the energy
F-moves through matter
Three types of progressive waves
orbital, longitudinl, transgression
Wave speed equals
wavelength divided by period
Disturbng forces include
wind, gravity, coriolis effect
restoring forces include
gravity, Coriolis effect
deep waves occur when the depth is ___ Shallow waves occur when the depth is ___
greater than half the wavelength, less than 1/20 of the wavelength
Factors that affect maxiumum wave size include
wind speed, wind duration, fetch
Energy through matter
energy progressis from one point to another through a series of waves
progressive wave
matter moves back and forth in the same direction of energy
logitudinal wave
matter moves perpendicular to motion of wave
only transmitted through fluid
highest point of wave
lowest point of wave
distance from crest to trough
wave height
time for same point on 2 waves to pass a particular point
number of waves to pass a fixed point in one second
wave will break based on
wave speed=
disturbing forces inslude
winds, gravity, seismic activity
restoring forces
surface tension, gravity, coriolis effect
capillary wave
1st surfave waves to form
Gravity waves
larger waves restored by gravity
rise and fall of uniform wave pattern
groups of similar swells moving together
wave train
waves depper than 1/2 the wave length
deep water
tides are caused by
shape and depth of floor, volume of water, latitude
lunar day
24 hrs 50 mins
differnce b/t high and low tide volume
tidal range
moon is father
moon is closer
sping tide
moon is allign
moon makes 90*
moon makes 90*