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50 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Tides are caused by
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moons gravity, with help from the sun
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Netwons equilibrium theory is more complex and explains more of the variables in tides than does Laplace's dynamic theory.
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False
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Besides lunar and solar gravity, influnces on the tides inclue
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Eath isnt spherical, season, ocean basin shape, and Coriolis effect
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Amphidromic points are
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points with no net water motion around which tides occur
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A single high and low tides is called a __ tide. Two unequal high and low tides daily is called a ___.
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diurnal, mixed
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Tidal currents are incoming tide flow. Tidal bore is outgoing tidal flow.
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F. Tidal currents are the ingoing and outgoing currents Tidal bore is a wave moving through a narrow area.
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During ___ tides the sun and moon align relative to Earth. During __ tides, they are at right angles to Earth.
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spring, neap
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Waves break
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when H:L ratio exceeds 1:7, when they reach a depth 1:3 times the wave height, in deep water at the right circumstances
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Wave ___ tends to bend waves parallel to shore or toward a protrusion. Wave ___ caused wave energy to bounce back toward open water.
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refreaction, reflection
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A standing wave is
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vertical wave that doesnt travel, but has a trough and crest that alternate
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Storm surges are caused by
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heavy winds
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When a wind wave breaks n shore,
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contact with the bottom decreases the wavelength and increaes height, top of wave is faster than bottom, H:L exceeds 1:7, and water depth is 1:3 times the height
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Seiches are caused by
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earthquakes, heavy winds
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Tsunamis are caused by
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earthquakes, landslides
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Tsunamis are shallow waves because
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they have long wavelength but no water is deep enough for them to be deep waves
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Tsunamis dont destroy boats bc
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their periods are so long, ships rse and fall very slowly
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An ocean wave is an energy transmission that moves matter along with the energy
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F-moves through matter
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Three types of progressive waves
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orbital, longitudinl, transgression
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Wave speed equals
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wavelength divided by period
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Disturbng forces include
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wind, gravity, coriolis effect
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restoring forces include
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gravity, Coriolis effect
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deep waves occur when the depth is ___ Shallow waves occur when the depth is ___
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greater than half the wavelength, less than 1/20 of the wavelength
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Factors that affect maxiumum wave size include
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wind speed, wind duration, fetch
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Energy through matter
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wave
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energy progressis from one point to another through a series of waves
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progressive wave
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matter moves back and forth in the same direction of energy
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logitudinal wave
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matter moves perpendicular to motion of wave
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transverse
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only transmitted through fluid
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orbital
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highest point of wave
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crest
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lowest point of wave
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trough
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distance from crest to trough
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wave height
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time for same point on 2 waves to pass a particular point
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period
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number of waves to pass a fixed point in one second
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frequecny
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wave will break based on
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H:L
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wave speed=
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l/t
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disturbing forces inslude
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winds, gravity, seismic activity
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restoring forces
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surface tension, gravity, coriolis effect
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capillary wave
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1st surfave waves to form
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Gravity waves
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larger waves restored by gravity
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rise and fall of uniform wave pattern
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swell
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groups of similar swells moving together
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wave train
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waves depper than 1/2 the wave length
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deep water
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tides are caused by
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shape and depth of floor, volume of water, latitude
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lunar day
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24 hrs 50 mins
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differnce b/t high and low tide volume
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tidal range
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apogee
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moon is father
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perigee
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moon is closer
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sping tide
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moon is allign
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neap
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moon makes 90*
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neap
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moon makes 90*
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