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187 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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4 Cs
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As developed by the Gemological Institute of America: Carat, Color, Clarity, Cut
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Accent Gemstones
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Gemstones that complement the center and side gemstones
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Alloy
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A mixture of two or more metals to create more desirable characteristics and or added strength
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Anneal
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A process used to bring metal alloys to a desired consistency, texture, or hardness by gradually heating and cooling
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Anniversary Band
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A ring of three or more diamonds or gemstones, typically set in a channel or prong setting.
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Antique jewelry
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100 years or older.
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Anticlastic
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A form that is curved in two directions opposite one another.
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Art Deco
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A decorative style of the 1920s and 1930s that features bold geometric shapes, linear patterns, and diverse colors.
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Art Noveau
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A decorative style from the late 1800s to early 1900s characterized by free-flowing lines and stylized natural forms such as flowers, leaves, and feminine form.
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Assay
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The process used when determining the proportions of precious metal contained in a piece of gold, silver, or other alloys.
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Azured
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A mounting that leaves a gemstone's pavilion facets uncovered so that line can enter.
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Bail
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An arched metal component used to hang a pendant from a chain or cord. It is meant to slide onto the chain rather than being soldered to it so that the pendant moves independently from the chain.
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Band
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A ring, usually uniform in width, with no distinguishable "top". May be set with gemstones.
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Bangle Bracelet
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A closed, rigid bracelet - with or without hinge and clasp - that slides over the hand.
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Baroque
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An irregular-shaped stone or pearl.
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Bar Set
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A setting technique where the gemstone is secured between two parallel bars, while the sides of the gem remain open.
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Base Metal
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A term informally referring to non-precious metals which are commonly used in costume jewelry.
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Basket Setting
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A type of prong setting with open sides similar to a basket weave, that allows the lower portion of the gemstone to be visible.
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Basse-taille
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An enameling technique in which a low-relief pattern is created in metal by engraving or chasing, then the entire pattern is filled with translucent enamel.
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Bead
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A small, usually spherical component made from a variety of materials, which may be partially drilled or fully drilled.
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Bead Set
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A method for securing a gemstone where a small bur of metal is raised with a graver and pushed over the edge of the gemstone.
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Belcher
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A ring mounting in which the prongs for the setting are formed from the shank of the ring so that the gemstone does not extend above the circumference of the shank.
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Bezel-Set
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A method for securing a gemstone in which a band of metal encircles the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over the gem to hold it in place.
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Bracelet Slide
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A bead-type adornment designed with two sets of holes to allow it to be strung onto a bracelet constructed of two rows of chain.
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Bridal Set
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A matching set of rings that include the engagement ring and a wedding band, worn stacked together.
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Bridge
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The structural portion of mounting the connects one side of the shank to the other.
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Bridge Accent
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A design element located beneath the center stone that can be seen when looking at the ring in the through finger view.
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Bright-Cut
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A metal engraving technique created by chiseling the metal with a polished tool creating a highly reflective surface.
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Brilliance
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Brightness and Contrast. Brightness refers to the amount of light returned from the diamond's surroundings and back to the observer. To be brilliant, a diamond also needs contrast, intensity of the white light from the crown of a polished diamond.
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Brooch
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A piece of jewelry that may be fastened to clothing, usually with a mechanism that consists of a straight, sharp pin finding, a hinge, and a catch.
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Bulk Chain
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Chain that does not include a clasp assembly. It has raw, cut ends and cannot be worn in its current state.
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Buttercup Setting
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A setting usually consisting of six prongs connected to a scalloped-shape based that resembles a buttercup flower.
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Bypass
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A ring mounting design in which the two sides of the band do not meet in a straight line, but overlap.
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Cabochon
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A polished, convex-cut, unfaceted gemstone.
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CAD/CAM
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Computer-aided design.
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Cameo
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A design cut in relief, usually into a hard gemstone or shell.
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Carat
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A unit of weight for precious and semi-precious gemstones, equal to 200 milligrams.
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Cathedral Setting
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A style of mounting in which the sides of the ring arch above the band on either side of the stone as seen in the through finger view.
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Center Gemstone
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The main gemstone in the design which is usually the focal point of the jewelry.
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Chain
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A series of connected metal links or loops with an attached clasp assembly.
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Clasp Assembly
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The mechanism used to secure a chain and typically consists of a chain end and clasp.
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Chain End
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The hoop located on one end of a chain, through which the other end can be looped.
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Chain Tag
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A flat metal piece with a hole in each end where the quality mark or trademark can be stamped.
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Champleve
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An enameling technique of decoration in which the design is made by lines or cells cut into a metal base. Similar to cloisonne, but the partitions are part of the base.
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Chandelier Earring
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One of a pair of long ornate earrings that dangle from the earlobes, usually dropping more than one level.
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Channel-Set
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A setting style in which a series of gemstones are set close together into grooves in two parallel walls.
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Chevron or V-Prong
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A prong in the shape of a V usually found on gemstone shapes with sharp corners.
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Choker
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A non-rigid necklace that fits snugly around the the throat, usually 14" - 15" in length.
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Chaddagh
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A traditional Irish ring design depicting two hands holding a crowned heart, representing friendship or love.
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Clarity
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A term used to describe the absence or presence of internal or external flaws in a gemstone.
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Clasp
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A mechanism used to attach objects or parts together, such as both ends of a chain.
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Claw (Prong)
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A wire used to fasten and hold a gemstone in a setting
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Cloisonne
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An ancient enameling technique in which a design is outlined on a metal base with bend wire of metal strips forming individual sections or compartments that are filled in with colored enamel.
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Cluster
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Multiple gemstones grouped together in a setting, which may or may not overlap each other.
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Dura Colbalt
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A corrosion and wear-resistant contemporary metal alloy consisting of cobalt and chromium.
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Collar
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A rigid choker-style necklace that fits snugly around the neck.
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Color Grade
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Ranges from D to Z, D being considered colorless and higher in value.
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Comfort-Fit
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Describes the convex interior of a ring or band.
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Contemporary
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Designs that are up-to-date with current trends in the industry with a modern flair.
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Contemporary Metal
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Metal alloys and industrial metals that are not part of the traditional "precious metal" group. Tungsten Carbide, cobalt chrome, etc.
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Cord
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A long, thin, flexible strand that can be used instead of chain for necklaces and bracelets. Cord can be made from satin, leather, rubber, and other alternative metals.
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Crown
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As it refers to a cut gemstone, the faceted area of a gemstone located above the girdle, but below the table.
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Cuff Bracelet
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A rigid bracelet designed with an opening for easily slipping the bracelet onto the wrist.
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Cuff Link
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A decorative fastener - similar to a button - which is used to secure the ends of a shirt cuff.
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Cutlet
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Refers to the base point of a diamond.
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Cut
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As it refers to a round diamond, cut is the factor that determines the diamond's brilliance.
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CZ
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Short for Cubic Zirconia.
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Depth
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In reference to a gemstone, it is the length from the table to cutlet.
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Design Element
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An attribute type used to describe features of a jewelry item.
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Diameter
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In reference to a gemstone, it is the overall width.
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Diamond-Cut Chain
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Sharp edges cut onto the surface of a chain so that the links flash and catch the light.
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Die Struck
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A process for manufacturing heads in which the item is stamped under extreme pressure, resulting in a work-hardened rigid part.
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Dispersion
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The power of a diamond when breaking up its light into its constituent colors.
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Drop Earring
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An earring that extends below the earlobe and is stationary.
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DWT
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Abbreviation for pennyweight. There are 20 pennyweights in a ounce.
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Ear Trim
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An earring designed to follow the contour of the ear.
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Earring Jacket
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An adornment for the ear that is an accessory to an earring, designed to be secured to the lobe with a stud.
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Earring Post
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A pin-like or wire finding attached to the back of an earring that passes through a pierced earlobe.
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Earring Back
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A disc or bead with a hole, through which an earring post is threaded for the purpose of securing the earring to the earlobe. Examples include nut, screw, tension, omega, and clutch.
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Earring Clutch
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A type of earring back that attaches to an earring post after it passes through a hole in the earlobe. The earring clutch is used to secure an earring in place.
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Earwire
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A wire used for pierced earrings. Popular styles include French hooks, lever back, and kidney.
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Edwardian
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Characteristically containing lace-like, fine filigree work with milgrain settings.
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Enamel
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An opaque or semi-transparent glass or substance applied to a metal surface for protection or ornamental purposes.
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Enhancer
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An enhancer attaches to an existing jewelry item to create a new look. Some examples of enhancers include ring enhancers, pearl enhancers, and pendant enhancers.
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Engraving
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The process or art of cutting or carving a design into a hard surface.
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Eternity Band
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A band set with one or more continuous rows of gemstones that completely encircle the band.
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Facet
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The flat, polished surface of a gemstone that affects a gemstone's brilliance and sparkle.
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Fancy Wedding Band
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A wedding band with more decorative styling that a simple, traditional band.
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Fashion Ring
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A type of ring worn to express style or a current trend.
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Filigree
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Lace-like ornamental work formed from thin wires of intricately-arranged intertwined precious metal. May be plain, twisted or plaited.
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Finding
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A component or part used in the making of a piece of jewelry.
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Finish
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A decorative texture applied to the surface to enhance its appearance.
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Fire
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Dispersed light that appears as flashes of spectral colors on a diamond.
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Fishtail Setting
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A setting technique consisting of four prominent triangular corners cut from the existing shank that holds the gemstone in place. Looks like a fishes tail.
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Flush-Set
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A setting technique in which the gemstone is embedded within the band and the metal from the band is used to secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the gem visible.
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Fluted
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An ornamental groove in a surface which creates visual interest.
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Freeform
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An asymmetrical, flowing shape or design.
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French Hook
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An earwire shaped like a hook used for pierced drop earrings.
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Gallery
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The negative space located on a head/setting.
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Gallery Rail/Bearing
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The metal rim located on a head/setting, below the girdle of a gemstone.
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Girdle
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The narrow band or edge separating the upper and lower faceted portions of a gem.
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Gram
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A gram is a metric unit. One ounce is equivalent to 31.10 grams.
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Graver
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A tool used to cut designs into metal and for precious gemstone setting that is made of highly-polished steel.
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Granulation
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A surface adornment technique in which minute grains or tiny balls of precious metal are applied to a surface in patterns to create visual interest.
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Guilloche
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An enameling technique in which precise, intricate, symmetrical patterns are mechanically engraved into a metal base; sometimes referred to as "engine turning." It was named after a French engineer who invented a machine to replicate these precise patterns that were previously done by hand.
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Half Bezel-Set
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A method for securing a gemstone in which a band of metal partially encircle the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over the gem to hold it in place.
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Hallmark
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A quality mark indicating precious metal content (10k, 14k, 18k) Typically stamped in an inconspicuous location.
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Halo
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A jewelry style featuring a central gemstone surrounded by a border of smaller gemstones.
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Head
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The part of the jewelry item that secures the gemstone. This is sometimes referred to as the setting.
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Hidden Bail
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A bail located inconspicuously on the reverse side of a pendant, so that the pendant appears to float on the chain or cord.
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Hinge
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A pin that fits through pieces of metal tubing that allow an item to articulate. Hinges are commonly found on lockets and boxes.
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Inlay
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The insertion of pieces of gemstones, wood, ivory, etc. into slots created on a surface for embellishment.
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Invisible-Set
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A setting technique with no visible prongs or supports. The gemstones are grooved so that a thin wire framework holds the gemstones in place.
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Jump Ring
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A wire ring of any size, usually round or oval in shape, used for attaching jewelry parts.
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Karat
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A unit of measure of the purity of gold. Pure gold equals 24 karats.
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Kinetic
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Jewelry designed to move, rotate or revolve.
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Kit
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An assortment of products, often components, sold together, usually for back of store use, often at a lower price than if the items were purchased individually.
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Lapel Pin
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A small piece of jewelry with a post-type pin affixed to it with a clutch mechanism to secure it. May also be assembled with a small brooch-type, hinged pin assembly.
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Lariat Necklace
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A long cord-like necklace without a clasp, usually looped into a knot, thus allowing the ends to hang down in the front.
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Lever Back
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A spring-loaded closure on the back of some earrings. When in the closed position, it secures the earring to the earlobe.
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Line Bracelet
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A flexible bracelet that can be unclasped and laid out to form a "line."
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Link Bracelet
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A bracelet made from connecting or linking various, sometimes similar, components together. The links are usually interlocking, eliminating the need for hinge pins.
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Locket
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A small, decorative case with one or more spaces to hold a picture or momento.
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Medical ID Jewelry
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Designed with a medically identifiable emblem and engraved to inform others of medical issues such as drug and food allergies.
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Melee
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Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than .17 carats.
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Micro Pave
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A highly precise setting technique similar to pave but using extremely small gemstones.
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Milgrain
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Having the edge shaped into find beading.
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Moissanite
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A rare mineral discovered by Henri Moissan, later synthesized in the laboratory and used as a high-quality diamond substitute.
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Niobium
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A silver-grey contemporary metal.
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Nugget Ring
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Jewelry designed to mimic and exaggerate the look of a native lump of precious metal.
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Omega Clip
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A wire attached and hinged on the back of an earring and used as a mechanism to hold the earring in place.
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Organic
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A design style using free-flowing curves and surfaces similar to those from nature such as in leaves, vines, etc.
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Patina
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Discoloration that forms naturally over time on metals such as silver or bronze.
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Pave
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A field of bead-set gemstones closely set, usually in rows, whereby the entire surface of the jewelry is covered or paved.
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Pavilion
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The lower part of a cut gemstone below the girdle.
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Pearl Enhancer
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A pendant with a hinged, clasp-type bail that allows it to be attached to a pearl or bead necklace, or any necklace that doesn't allow a pendant to be slide onto it.
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Peg Head
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A setting with a peg attached to it that can be easily attached to a jewelry item by inserting the peg into a drilled hole. Peg heads are commonly used in semi-mount engagement rings.
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Pendant
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An adornment designed to be suspended from a necklace.
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Pendant Enhancer
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A pendant designed so that another pendant, usually a solitaire, can be suspended inside of it.
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Pennyweight
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Pennyweight is a common weight unit of measure used in the valuation and measurement of precious metals.
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Pin-Catch
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The securing mechanism for a pin-stem
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Pin-Stem
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A sharply-pointed pin on a hinge that is suitable for piercing fabric or clothing. It is secured with a pin-catch.
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Platinum
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A heavy, non-corrosive white metal with high tensile strength which dulls as it is worn but holds its detail for many years.
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Plique-a-Jour
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An enameling technique by which the design is outline with metal and filled in with colored enamels, but with no backing so that the effect is similar to a stained glass window.
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Primary Metal
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The metal alloy that, when describing a two-tone item, makes up the majority of the weight of the jewelry item.
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Profile
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A profile is a cross sectional view. Flat inside round, comfort-fit, inside round, flat, knife-edge., are examples of band profiles.
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Promise Ring
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A ring worn to show commitment to a monogamous relationship, usually set with one or more diamond melee.
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Prong-Set
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A setting technique in which a gemstone is held in place by metal projections or tines, called prongs.
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Prototype
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An example of a piece of jewelry created from inexpensive, non-precious metals.
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Puzzle Ring
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Several rings that fit together to create a single ring.
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Remount
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The act of removing gems from one jewelry item and setting them into a new jewelry item.
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Ring Guard
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A ring designed with two shanks assembled so that a solitaire ring may be inserted into it.
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Riviera
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A necklace style comprised of flexible gemstone links which are typically tapered in size.
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Rolling Ring
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A ring usually consisting of three or more bands. As the ring is slid on and off the finger, the bands roll over one another.
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Roundel
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A doughnut-shaped or flattened, disk-shaped bead that is used as a space or an accent between other beads.
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Safety Clasp
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A secondary closure added to some bracelets and necklaces for extra security.
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Scalloped-Set
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A technique for setting gemstones in which the prongs are created from the shank. Fishtail is one example of a scalloped setting.
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Scintillation
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The intense sparkles and flashes of light visible when either the person viewing the diamond or the lighting moves.
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Scooped Band
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A band with a concave groove on the inside of the band, designed to lessen the weight of the piece, therefore lowering the price.
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Secondary Metal
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When describing a two-tone item, the metal alloy that makes up the minority of the weight of item.
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Setting
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The act of securing a gemstone. The term setting is sometimes used interchangeably with head and/or mounting.
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Shadow Band
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A wedding band designed and contoured to be worn with a specific engagement ring. The design is such that it would not usually be worn on its own.
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Shank
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A ring designed for, but stocked without a center head and that is not complete without such head.
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Shoulders
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The upper part of a ring shank.
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Signet Ring
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A ring with letters, or a design carved into it. A college ring is an example.
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Sizing Area
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The area at the bottom of a ring shank where metal can be inserted or removed to reduce or increase the finger size of the ring.
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Slide Pendant
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A bail-less pendant. May incorporate holes into the design to allow passage of a chain or cord.
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Solitaire
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A piece of jewelry containing or designed to hold a single diamond.
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Stainless Steel
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A contemporary metal resistant to tarnishing and rust.
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Station Necklace
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A necklace with repeating elements.
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Sterling Silver
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A precious metal alloy of 92.5% silver and copper or another metal.
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Strip Setting
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A metal strip jewelry finding that is usually comprised of repeating patterns in which gemstones can be set.
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Stud Earring
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Jewelry attached to the ear with an earring post through a piercing and secured with an earring back.
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Synclastic
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A surface or a portion of a surface that is curved towards the same side in all directions.
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Table
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Referring to the top, flat part of the cut of a gemstone.
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Tension-Set
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A setting that holds the gemstone in place entirely with compression/tension and not prongs.
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Three-Stone Ring
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A ring consisting mainly of three larger stones.
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TieTack/Tie Clip
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A piece of jewelry used to hold a necktie in place.
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Titanium
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A strong, low-density, highly corrosion-resistance and lustrous white element that occurs widely in igneous rocks and is mainly used to alloy aircraft metals.
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Trellis Setting
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A structure of open latticework especially used as a gallery support for gemstones.
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Trim
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A decorative finding that can be added to another jewelry component to create a finished jewelry item.
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Troy Ounce
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A unit of troy weight, used for weight precious metals. The ounce contains 20 pennyweights each of 24 grains.
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Tungsten
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A contemporary metal containing equal parts of tungsten and carbon atoms.
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Two-Tone
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A jewelry item comprised of two different metals or alloys of different color.
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Unset Semi-Mount
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A ring mounting designed to hold side stones or melee, but in which no stones have been set and the center stone is not in place.
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White Gold
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A white-colored alloy of gold with nickel, platinum, or another metal.
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Work-Hardened
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The change in hardness of metal due to repeated cold flexing or stress. The annealing process can be used to relieve the stress.
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