Huec 4071 Test 1

Front 1

Why do people ware clothes?

Back 1

protection, status, modesty, decoration

Front 2

____ seems to be the most basic motivation for dress.

Back 2

decoration

Front 3

type of dress may be limited by ____.

Back 3

function, avaliability of materials

Front 4

dress can be divided between ____ and ____.

Back 4

draped and tailored

Front 5

____ clothing is made from woven lengths of cloth, loosly fitted, good for warm climates

Back 5

draped

Front 6

____ clothing is cut and sewn, close fitting

Back 6

tailored

Front 7

a drape sari with closly tailored bodis is an example of what?

Back 7

a combonation of draped and tailoring

Front 8

technology limits or expands options by _____.

Back 8

hand processes, mechanized, powered by electricity

Front 9

social mores and customs may __ or __ clothing choices.

Back 9

limit or expand

Front 10

in the study of historic costume underlying themes are related to dress. some themes that will appear throughout the study of history of dress are:

Back 10

social life, social class structures, social roles including those that relate to gender

Front 11

changes and or patterns in social behavior, what modern termanology might refer to as ___.

Back 11

lifestyle

Front 12

functions of dress in the social context can include:

Back 12

designation of gender differences, designation of status, ID of group membership, ceremonial use of clothing

Front 13

certain themes grow out of the historical context:

Back 13

politics, economic events, technology, media,

Front 14

as cultures come into contact their is a reciprocal exchange of new ideas, resulting in styles that are mixtures and a process called _______.

Back 14

cultural authintication

Front 15

____ are styles that incoperate components from sevral cultures

Back 15

mixtures

Front 16

the cheongsam combines traditional elements with western cut and fit and is an example of ___

Back 16

cross-culutral influences in dress

Front 17

__ is the process where by elements of dress of one culture are incoperated into the dress of another.

Back 17

culutral authentication

Front 18

Ritual; in England when boys reached a certain age, that stage was celebrated by given him his first pair of breeches

Back 18

Breeching

Front 19

Wearing apparel

Back 19

Clothes/Clothing

Front 20

Style of dress peculiar to a nation, a class, or a period

Back 20

Costume

Front 21

When one culture comes into contact with another, “foreign” styles can be influential; may come about through war, trade, travel, immigration, or through the medium of communication

Back 21

Cross-cultural influences

Front 22

The process “whereby elements of dress of one culture are incorporated into the dress of another”[Erekosima and Eicher]; the style is usually changed in some way

Back 22

Cultural authentication

Front 23

Created by the arrangement around the body of pieces of fabric that are folded, pleated, pinned, and/or belted in different ways; usually fits the body loosely; thought that draped garment were developed after people learned to weave cloth; Worn in warm climates

Back 23

Draped costume

Front 24

Garments; aspects of personal appearance that can be changed, such as grooming

Back 24

Dress

Front 25

A taste shared by many for a short period of time; observed in modern life such as cars, houses, furniture, literary styles, vacation destinations, etc.;

Back 25

Fashion

Front 26

Complex industry linkages of textile production, clothing design and manufacture, and retail distribution of clothing; clothing was mass produced by early 20th century and fashionable clothing was made available in a wide variety of price ranges; result = all income levels followed current fashion

Back 26

Fashion system

Front 27

Dress of the European peasant class; 18th and 19th century developments; also known as ethnic costume or traditional costume; worn to set self apart from others and proclaim being part of a region or town

Back 27

Folk costume

Front 28

No universal customs exist that dictate the specific forms of dress for each gender; the differences reflect culturally appropriate social roles for each sex

Back 28

Gender

Front 29

Styles that incorporate components from several cultures [Roach and Musa (1980)]

Back 29

Mixtures

Front 30

Predominant form of dress of any given period or culture

Back 30

Style

Front 31

Certain types of clothing was restricted to persons of a particular rank & social & economic status; restrict use of or expenditures on luxury goods such as clothing & household furnishing; during 14th century England, servants couldn’t Spend much on clothing & could not wear gold, silver, embroidery, or silk

Back 31

Sumptuary laws

Front 32

Thought to have developed through the use of skins or leather; pieces are cut & sewn together; fit the body more closely & provide greater warmth than draped
Garments; worn in cool climates

Back 32

Tailored costume

Front 33

The dress prevalent in Western Europe & Euro-America since the Middle Ages
Zeitgeist-Complex mixture of social, psychological, & aesthetic factors; spirit of the times

Back 33

Western dress

Front 34

Complex mixture of social, psychological, & aesthetic factors; spirit of the times

Back 34

Zeitgeist

Front 35

Separate items that cover the genital area and are worn alone over a skirt or some other garment, or over a loincloth and under a skirt; made of one or more pieces of cloth attached to a belt, sash, or band that fastens around the waist [Vogelsang-Eastwood, 1993]

Back 35

Apron

Front 36

worn by pharaohs to symbolize military power or when going to war; in the New Kingdom, this headdress was more often worn than the double crown; made of molded leather and decorated with gold sequins, it had a uraeus the center front

Back 36

Blue or war crown

Front 37

Fringed tunic according [according to Greek historian Herodotus]; close-fitting garment; sheath dress worn by women

Back 37

Calasiris or kalasiris

Front 38

Bun of hair at the back of the neck held in place by a fillet (headband)

Back 38

Chignon

Front 39

headband

Back 39

Fillet

Front 40

Plant [raw material] in which linen fiber is removed from its stems

Back 40

Flax

Front 41

Greek word; fleece or fleecelike fabric; wrapped around the body; fringed at the hem after sheepskin had been supplemented to simulate the tufts of wool on the fleece; when ends long enough, they went under a belt and over one shoulder;
varied lengths
long = royalty and deities (gods/goddesses)
short = servants and soldiers

Back 41

Kaunakes

Front 42

Short skirt worn by Scotsmen

Back 42

Kilt

Front 43

Made of galena, a sulfide of lead; eye paint protected against the glare of the sun and bacterial infections

Back 43

Kohl

Front 44

Fiber most used by Egyptians; fiber that is removed from the stems of the flax plant; difficult to dye to colors that will not fade unless substances called mordants are used to fix the colors; most clothing was in a natural creamy-white color of linen or bleached to a pure white

Back 44

Linen

Front 45

Linen and were under or outer garments shaped and worn like triangular diapers; strings were attached for tying
the garment around the waist, although sometimes a separate sash was also wrapped around the waist; often were the sole garment worn by laborers
network loincloths –network of leather with solid sections of leather as reinforcement at the waist and over the buttocks

Back 45

Loin cloth

Front 46

Children of pharaoh wore this hairstyle where head is completely shaved and one part is left unshaven and arranged in curls or braids on the left side of the head over the ear.

Back 46

Lock of youth/Lock of Horus

Front 47

worn by rulers from the Old to the New Kingdom; a scarflike construction that completely covered the head, was fitted across the temple, hanging down to the shoulder behind the ears, and with a long tail at center back that symbolized a lion’s tail; the shape of the Nemes head covering is similar to a simple, scarflike headcovering owned by the Metropolitan Museum

Back 47

Nemes headdress

Front 48

Ornament worn at the neck that hung down of the chest

Back 48

Pectorals

Front 49

charms worn around the neck to ward off evil

Back 49

Amulets

Front 50

crown of fillets placed on the head held flowers

Back 50

Diadems

Front 51

worn by pharaohs to symbolize rule over Lower and Upper Egypt; consisted of a combination of the crowns of lower and upper Egypt

Back 51

Pschent crown

Front 52

worn by pharaohs to symbolize rule over Lower Egypt

Back 52

Red crown of Lower Egypt

Front 53

worn by pharaohs to symbolize rule of Upper Egypt

Back 53

White crown of Upper Egypt

Front 54

Place where one piece of cloth was joined to another by sewing

Back 54

Seam

Front 55

Wrapped skirt, the length, width, and fit of which varied with different time periods and social classes, was a major garment of men throughout all of Egyptian history; kilt

Back 55

Schenti (shent, skent or schent)

Front 56

The finished edge; place at the sides of a fabric where a weft yarn turns to make its return trip across the fabric ; place where extra yarns can be added for decorative elements

Back 56

Selvage

Front 57

Most common garment of women of all classes; close-fitting tube of fabric beginning above or below the breasts and ending around the lower calf or ankle; one or two straps holding it over the shoulders; Dr. Vogelsandg-Eastwood says it was probably a wraparound dress and the shoulder straps were separate garments; none have been found in excavations but lengths of cloth with patterns of wear consistent with wrap-around dresses have been found in fairly substantial numbers

Back 57

Sheath dress

Front 58

Garment pieces attached to wraparound dresses placed in a variety of ways that varies the placement of the top of the garment

Back 58

Straps

Front 59

Made with or without sleeves and often of sheer almost transparent linen; wrapped garments

Back 59

Tunic

Front 60

Worn by kings and queens; representation of a cobra, which was a symbol of royal power; could be worn on a headband, or as part of another headdress

Back 60

Uraeus

Front 61

Interlacing lengthwise yarns
Weft yarns Crosswise, filling yarns

Back 61

Warp yarns

Front 62

Considered ritually unclean and was not worn by priests of by visitors to sanctuaries or for burial; used for some outer garments;

Back 62

Wool

Front 63

worn by men, length was usually short, between hip and thigh, fit close to the body, similar in shape to the Doric peplos, that fabric was usually patterned wool, it lasted Archaic period to 550BC

Back 63

Chitoniskos

Front 64

more complicated from the woman’s diplax in which fabric was pleated into a fabric band

Back 64

Chlamydon

Front 65

modern term for a close fitting shaped armor that covered the body

Back 65

Cuirass

Front 66

small rectangle of fabric worn by women, especially over the ionic chiton, was draped in much the same way as the hymation

Back 66

Diplax

Front 67

high waistling starting just below the bust line

Back 67

Empire waistline

Front 68

came to be applied to a large rectangle of fabric that wrapped around the body is not entirely clear

Back 68

Himation

Front 69

greek for loincloth, was a garment worn by men either as an undergarment or in athletic contests

Back 69

Perizoma

Front 70

usually worn with the chlamys, wide brim

Back 70

Petasos

Front 71

brimless cap with a high padded peak that fell forward

Back 71

Phrygian bonnet

Front 72

worn by men and women, a narrowed brim or brimless hat with a pointed crown

Back 72

Pilos

Front 73

bands of fabric wrapped around the body

Back 73

Swadding clothes

Front 74

resembling a modern, hood poncho, cut full and with an opening through which the head was slipped

Back 74

Birrus, burrus-

Front 75

licket made of gold, silver, or bronze or leather contained charms against evil was placed around a baby boy’s neck

Back 75

Bulla-

Front 76

the bands of the tunics that extended vertically from hem across the shoulders

Back 76

Clavus, clavi

Front 77

new variant of the tunic, fuller than earlier tunics and had long wide sleeves

Back 77

Dalamatic-

Front 78

bright orange Vail

Back 78

Flammeum-

Front 79

rectangular with round corners and a hood

Back 79

Lacerna-

Front 80

circle of cloth folded to a semicircle that was thrown over the shoulders and pined at the front

Back 80

Laena-

Front 81

slightly larger version of the sudarium, became a symbol of rank in the late empire worn by women neatly pleated across the left shoulder or forearm

Back 81

Orarium-

Front 82

heavy wool cloak semicircular in shape, closed at the front, with a hood

Back 82

Paenula-

Front 83

(evolved from the Greek hymation) broad rectangle that was draped around the shoulders, crossed in front, and was held in place with a belt

Back 83

Palla/pallium-

Front 84

placed over the outer tunic, draped either simicircularly to the toga, casually pulled across the shoulder or pulled over the head like a vail

Back 84

Palla-

Front 85

large white or purple cloak similar to the Greek chlamys, worn by emperors or generals

Back 85

Paludamentum-

Front 86

like the abolla was a singe layer of thick wool generally red ordinary soldeires wore it in a time of war so did roman citizens

Back 86

Sagum-

Front 87

boots and a slipper like shoe reaching to the ankle, sandals men and women wore

Back 87

Solae/Sandalis-

Front 88

garment reserved for the free married woman, denoted status, has sewn on straps and a ruffle on the bottom resembling a modern slip

Back 88

Stola-

Front 89

Latin for loincloth comparable to the Greek Perizoma, serving as a undergarment for middle and upper class men and working garment for slaves

Back 89

Subligar-

Front 90

used for wipping off perspiration or held infront of the mouth to protect from disease (basically a handkerchief)

Back 90

Sudarium-

Front 91

rounded mantle worn by men and women. Woven with curved edges in a roughly semicircular or elliptical form

Back 91

Tebenna-

Front 92

draped elliptically shaped mantle that probably evolved from the Etruscan tabenna

Back 92

Toga-

Front 93

this was the toga pura lightened to an exceptional white, worn by candidates for office, the word candidate is derived from this term.

Back 93

Toga candida-

Front 94

purple with gold embroidery, assigned on special occasions to victorious generals or other persons who distinguished themselves in some way

Back 94

Toga picta-

Front 95

with a purple border about 2 or 3 inches wide, worn by the young son until 16 years old and daughter till 12 years old of the nobility and by certain adults magistrates and high priests

Back 95

Toga praetexta-

Front 96

black or dark color toga, said to have been worn for mourning

Back 96

Toga pulla-

Front 97

plain white, undecorated wool, worn after 16 years old by ordinary male roman citizen

Back 97

Toga pura-/Toga virilis-

Front 98

apparently multicolored, striped toga, assigned to augurs (religious officials who prophesized the future) or important officials

Back 98

Toga trabea-

Front 99

the over fold was folded back and forth upon its self until the folded band of fabric was formed at the top of semicircular folds were held in place by pins

Back 99

Toga with folded bands-

Front 100

special hairstyle, created by drawing the hair to the top of the head and wrapping it in vitte, it gave a conical shape similar to the Etruscan women’s headdress of the same name

Back 100

Tutulus-

Front 101

the knob, created by pulling a clump of fabric up from the first and invisible part of the toga that had been placed vertically from floor to shoulder , may have helped hold the toga drapery in place

Back 101

Umbo-

Front 102

woolen band used to bind her hair

Back 102

Vitta-