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134 Cards in this Set
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- Back
- 3rd side (hint)
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Ready to wear (RTW)
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clothing that is massed produced
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ready made or off the rack
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vendor/supplier
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provides raw materials for manufacturers or provides garments for retailers;what retailers refer to manufacturers as
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CMT contractor
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performs all the production operations to produce a style
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wholesale reps or sales reps
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agents of the apparel manufacturing companies; they sell the finished garments to retailers
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National Retail Federation(NRF)
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the world's largest trade organization of retailers
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conference Bomberger attended
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private label
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apparel developed by or for a specific retailer
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branded apparel
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developed by a manufacturer & sold to many retailers under the trademarked brand name
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sourcing
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finding a contractor
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tariffs/duties
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taxes placed on imported goods
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quota visa
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an endorsement by the U.S Customs Service (USCS) granting entry & proving that they conform to quota limits for their classification & country of origin
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Federal Trade Commission's function
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US government commission that oversees the Textile Fiber Products ID Act, the Care Labeling Rule, the Wool Products Labeling Act, the Fur Products Labeling Act,Guides for Select Leather & Imitation Leather Products,& Silk Labeling Regulations
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Flammable Fabrics Act
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classifies fabrics according to how fast they burn under controlled testing conditions
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Occupational Safety & Health Act
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seeks to ensure safe & healthful working conditions for every working man & woman in the US
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licensing
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when an agreement is signed to carry someone else's name, or logo on your product;R=registered, T=trademark
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knockoff
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the copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name
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benefits of bar codes
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creates uniformity in the industry, serves as an alternative for a verbal description,speeds up checkout, keeps track of inventory,subtracting sales & markdowns,makes physical inventory faster
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RN (registered #)
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a manufacturer's, retailers, or importers registered id number seen on garment labels; tracking number
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care label & its must haves
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to indicate to consumers the recommended care for apparel; country of origin,fabric,RN, company name,care label
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Regulations for Toys & Children's Articles
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present choking, aspiration, or ingestion hazards because of small parts
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Fair Labor Standards Act (FLSA)
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requires manufacturers to pay at least the minimum wage, to pay overtime for hours worked in excess of 40 hours, & to keep records on each employee regarding hours & pay
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trade dress
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the shape & features of the product itself that arent only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product
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price line
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clustering of merchandise at the same price level
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target market
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consumers in a particular market segment that a manufacturer aims to please w/ a particular product
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demographics
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describe a population based on age, income, education, occupation, race, & geographic location
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psychographics
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characteristics of people according to interests, attitudes, & opinions
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generation X
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people born 1966-1976
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generation Y
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people born after 1976
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baby boomers
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people born 1946-1965
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standards
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fabric & findings (or raw material) & garment or product standards
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tolerance
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the difference between the allowable minimum & maximum of a specification or standard; 5%
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chargeback
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a running total of all defective merchandise is kept by the buyer,authorization for return is granted from the seller, & the appropriate amounts are subtracted from payments on future merchandise
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Computer aided design
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aid the design & manufacturing processes
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prototype
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trial model
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outsourcing
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to select outside contractors to perform production work
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precosting
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a preliminary estimate of what it'll cost to produce the garment
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overhead costs
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expenses of operating the business beyond the direct costs of producing garments (factory, equipment, technology)
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wholesale price
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the price manufacturers charge the retailer
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loss leader
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style sold at a loss to attract buyers to a line
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retail price
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the price retailers charge consumers
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lab dip
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dyed color samples from which the manufacturer can choose
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strikeoff
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PRINT samples from which a manufacturer can choose
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shade band
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long, narrow swatches of fabric cut from different dye lots, all w/acceptable variations of shade, used to maintain consistency of coloration on incoming fabric
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preproduction garments
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trial units from every new style made using actual production techniques in the manufacturing plant
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grading
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increasing & decreasing the dimensions of a pattern to reflect the various sizes to be produced
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spreading
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action of laying multiple plies of cloth on a table before cloth is cut
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cutting
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action of dividing fabric into garment components
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wet processing
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procedure that adds a chemical finish to the assembled garment
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bleaching
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wet process using color removing agents
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Prepared for Dye
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special white cloth from which garments are made that are to be garment dyed after assembly
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drop shipping
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direct shipment from the vendor to the buyer
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grain
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refers to need for lengthwise yarns to run parallel to length of body @ center front & center back,down the center of the arm from shoulder to elbow, & down the center front of each pant leg
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bias
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runs diagonally;any direction that isnt the lengthwise or crosswise grain of a woven fabric
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dart
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triangular fold stitched to shape the flat fabric to the curves & bulges of the body
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yoke
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horizontal division w/in a garment;small flat panel of fabric usually @ the shoulder, waist, or midriff
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gore
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vertical division w/in a garment, usually tapered panels seamed together to add shape to a garment
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split yoke
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features a seam at the center back of the yoke
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gathers
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a series of small folds of fabric, controlled & held in place by stitches to provide visible fullness
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elastic
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fabric w/ high degree of strecth & recovery
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applied elastic
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elastic stitched directly onto the garment to add shape where desired
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casing
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tunnel of fabric through which elastic or drawstring is threaded to provide shape to the garment
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interfacing
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supporting fabric usually hidden between the garment & its facing; lends body,shape, & REINFORCEMENT to limited areas of the garment
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silhouette
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outline or shape of the garment
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flat collar
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lies flat or nearly flat against the garment all around the wearers neck
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standing collar
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a band extending straight up from the neckline edge & standing up around the neck
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barrel cuff
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MOST COMMON TYPE; laps & buttons @ the wrist
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convertible cuff
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an open band that fastens w/layers superimposed to resemble a French cuff
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French cuff
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MOST FORMAL STYLE of an open band cuff
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quotas
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limit the quantity of items that may imported
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4 requirements for licensing
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fabric,design,work environment,& location sold in
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dye lot
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fabrics from the same dye bath,producing color consistency
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die
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sponge w/steel aka tungsten; creates embroidery
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3 forms of color removal
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bleaching,stone & sandwashing,
& frosting |
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shade lot
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fabrics grouped together for color consistency
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shading
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absence of color consistency
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luster
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the amount of light the fabric reflects
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hand
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how a fabric feels;using 2 fingers & thumb and consistently rubbing a fabric
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elasticity/memory
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when a fabric returns to its original shape;better memory= better quality
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colorfastness
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ability to retain original color
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fading
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lightening of a color because of a dye breakdown
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crocking
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transfer of a fabric's color;will occur 70-80% if a garment hasnt been washed
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bleeding
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surface absorbs color;involves a liquid
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wicking
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changes absorbtion level & slows down evaporation so the body cools down
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yarn count/thread count
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filling & warp threads in one inch
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shrinkage
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amount of condensing; wovens: 2-3% & knits: 3-5%
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physical features
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design,materials,construction,finish,embellished
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2 function Consumer Product Safety Commission enforce
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the Flammable Fabrics Act & issues addressed in the Federal Hazardous Substance Act
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end use/intended use
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helps determine the target market for a product & affects how consumers evaluate quality
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standards
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fabric and findings,or raw material (fabric & zippers,threads,etc) & garment or product
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random inspection
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1.products submitted to inspector as a lot.inspector draws sample according to statistical sampling plan. 2.inspector examines pieces in sample. 3.if inspector doesnt find too many pieces in sample,entire lot's accepted.otherwise lot's rejected.
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construction
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silhouette;how is it put together
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finish
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dye; can be finished before or after it complete
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embellish
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communicative vehicle; key part of apparel;rebrand to create a sense of emotional connection
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textile industry cycle
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1.farming & synthetics 2.fiber manufacturing 3.yarn manufacturing 4.fabric & findings manufacturers 5.dye, print, finish 6.apparel manufacturing(cut,stitch) 7.potential garment dye(once finished) 8.retail stores 9.consumers 10.return business
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contracting
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choosing contractors to perform the production work
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single welt pocket
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single lip usually no more than 1/2' wide
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double welt pocket
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two lips usually no more than 1/4' wide
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flap pocket
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flap extends over the pocket opening
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fabric
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the textile material from which ready to wear garments are produced
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5 elements of fit
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grain,set,line,balance,&ease
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set
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a smooth fit without undesirable wrinkles
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line
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the alignment of the structural lines of the garment w/the natural lines of the body
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balance
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right & left halves of the garment appearing evenly balanced or symmetrical
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ease
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the amount of roominess in a garment
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natural vs. synthetic
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silk,wool,cotton,linen vs. rayon lyocell,acetate,nylon, polyester,rubber,metallic
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staple vs. filament fibers
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short fibers measured in centimeters or inches(natural fibers) vs. long fibers measured in yards or meters(manufactured fibers)
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4 methods of dying
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solution/fiber,yarn,piece,& garment
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blended fabrics
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increase or decrease the characteristics contributed by each fiber to the fabric
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yarns
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group of fibers that can be twisted or spun into a continous strand
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staple vs. filament fibers
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short fibers measured in centimeters or inches(natural fibers) vs. long fibers measured in yards or meters(manufactured fibers)
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4 methods of dying
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solution/fiber,yarn,piece,& garment
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blended fabrics
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increase or decrease the characteristics contributed by each fiber to the fabric
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yarns
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group of fibers that can be twisted or spun into a continous strand
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stage 1 of production cycle: customer
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where do you stand w/customer as price & quality? who's the customer?
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stage 2 of production cycle: value
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determines relationship between price & quality
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stage 3 of production cycle: design
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pattern,then trim
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stage 4 of production cycle: fabric
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shopping piece goods(prints, fabrics,etc)
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stage 5 of production cycle: development
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creating a working sample,prototype sent out to be analyzed
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stage 6 of production cycle: production
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decide what form of distribution will be used(logistics); how will the product be transported
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stage 8 of production cycle: retail
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when it reaches the store; decides how it'll be marketed
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stage 9 of production cycle: sale
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how it's displayed,what's going on the floor,& what stays in the back room
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stage 10 of production cycle: return/chargeback
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in many cases stores are charged 2% rebate
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stage 11 of production cycle: repeat business
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want to give consumers a quality product to keep them coming back;hangtags cause repeat business
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70/30 rule
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70% of product cost is piece goods while 30% is cut,make, trim
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stage 1 of embroidery cycle: art
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design artistically,sketch,CAD
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stage 2 of embroidery cycle: disc
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put in computer,art programs machine(digitally)
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stage 3 of embroidery cycle: machine
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takes info;judged by # of heads(2,6,12,15,24,48);9 cones in needle;1 design on 1 machine @ same time
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stage 4 of embroidery cycle: hoop
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before put on table,stretches out garment so stitches go through clearly
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stage 5 of embroidery cycle: backing
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part of palon gives fabric weight so needle can go through
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stage 6 of embroidery cycle: applique
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stitchings around letter; letters laid on surface of fabric(anything you stitch down)
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stage 7 of embroidery cycle: stitch
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stitch it down
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stage 8 of embroidery cycle: trim
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cut loose threads(done electronically)
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stage 9 of embroidery cycle: remove backing
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hoop burn, stays after fabric's forced down
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stage 10 of embroidery cycle: steam
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physically takes away hoop burn
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stage 7 of production cycle: distribution
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decide what form of distribution will be used(logistics);how will the product be transported
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