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47 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
perm with a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and do not require added heat of a hair dryer; process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
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acid-balanced waves
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permanent waves that process at room temperature without addition of heat; most have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6.
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alkaline waves or cold waves
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perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odour associated with their use.
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ammonia-free waves
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main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
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ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
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oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
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base cream
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position of tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped.
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base control
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angle at which the tool is positioned on head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
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base direction
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relaxers that require application of base cream to the entire scalp prior to application of relaxer.
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base relaxers
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subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one tool is normally placed on each base section.
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base sections
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perm wrap in which all tools within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm tool.
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basic perm wrap
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perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
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bookend wrap
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perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row
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bricklay perm wrap
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process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form.
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chemical hair relaxing
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hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of hair
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chemical texture services
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perm rods that have a smaller circumference in the centre that increases to a larger circumference on the ends
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concave rods
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perms in which hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping layers
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croquignole perms
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perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
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curvature perm wrap
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side bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex; join cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with cysteine sulfur atoms on neighbouring polpeptide chains to form cystine, the oxidized form of cysteine.
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disulfide bonds
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perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one paper over, the strand of hair being wrapped
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double flat wrap
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perm wrap in which two tools are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
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double tool (piggyback) technique
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perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer
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endothermic waves
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absorbent papers used to control the ends of hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools
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end papers or end wraps
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perm that creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing
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exothermic waves
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main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions that effectively reduces the pH
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glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
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base control in which hair is wrapped at 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to its base section and tool is positioned half off its base section
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half-off-base placement
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relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools
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hydrogen bonds
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relaxers with a very high pH, sometimes over 13
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hydroxide relaxers
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process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; it breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.
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lanthionization
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perms that work at low pH and uses sulfates, sulfites, ad bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
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low-PH waves
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ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen
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metal hydroxide relaxers
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process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer.
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neutralization
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relaxers that do not require application of a protective base
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no-base relaxers
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conditioners with an acidic pH that condition hair and restores natural pH prior to shampooing
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normalizing solutions
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base control in which hair is wrapped at 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and tool is position on its base section.
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on-base placement
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chemical bonds that join amino acids together
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peptide or end bonds
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amino acid chains joined together by peptide bonds
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polypeptide chains
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relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; are easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal
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salt bonds
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perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
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single flat wrap
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combination of thio relaxers and thio permanents that are wrapped on large tools; used to make existing curl larger and looser
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soft curl permanents
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perms in which the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the tool; depending on the tool, the hair may be wound from the scalp toward the ends or from the ends toward the scalp
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spiral perms
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perm wrap done at an angle that causes hair to spiral along the length of tool; particularly effective on longer, thicker hair
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spiral perm technique
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perm rods that are equal in circumference along their entire length or curling area
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straight rods
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colourless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odour; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
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thioglycolic acid
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relaxers that usually have a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ammonium thioglyolate than is used in permanent waving
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thio relaxers
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perm that uses an ingredient other than ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent
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thio-free waves
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perms that have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and requires heat to speed processing; process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl
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true acid waves
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wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
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weave technique
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