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43 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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what are tides?
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The oscillation of water in a predictable fashion due to the
gravitational pull of the moon and, to a lesser extent, of the sun |
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high tides and low tides are predicted by the ...
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moon
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how many high tides and low tides are there in 24 hours and 50 minutes
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2 high and 2 low
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what are spring tides and neap tides caused by?
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the sun and moon combination
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what is spring tide?
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highest high tides when sun, earth, and moon are lined up (new and full moon phases)
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What are neap tides?
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the lowest high tide during the 1st & 3rd quarter moon phases
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How often is the tidal interval
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about every two weeks
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Tidal range depends on....?
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the configuration (shape, depth, and size) of ocean basins
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What are waves?
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Rising and falling motions of ocean waters caused mainly by
surface winds, submarine activities (quake, volcanism, landslide) |
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What is the most important agent of shaping coastlines
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waves
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how do you describe wavelength
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between two adjacent crestts
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how do you describe wave height
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vertical distance between troughs and crests
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what does the size of a wave depend on?
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wind speed, duration, and area
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strong wave triggered by earth quakes
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Tsunami
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What is the largest tsunami ever recorded?
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in 1958 an avalanche landed in lituya bay alaska and created an avalanche 524 meters high
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Deep water waves
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They are symmetrical waves with no apparent forward motion
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Shallow water waves
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when water depth is less than 1/2 the wave length, wave surf forward
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wave breaker
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when water depth is less than 1/20 of the wave length, wave breaks
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What is wave translation?
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as waves approach shallow shore,
wavelength decreases and wave height increases |
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what is wave refraction
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as waves approach irregular shoreline,
waves appear changing directions or bending. most waves converge toward headlands and diffuse away from bays. |
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Over prolonged period, shoreline would be _________ by wave erosion
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straightened
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What is strong erosion and what factors control this
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compounded by strong storms & high tides
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What are currents
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horizontal movement of large volume of water
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what are the causes of currents
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temperature, salinity and oblique waves
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what are the different types of circulation from currents?
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Global, regional,and local
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What are the 2 different types of currents?
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surface currents and deep water currents
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These types of currents are roughly parallel to the shore
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long shore and littoral currents
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what are rip currents
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Surf zone current flowing seaward due to the escape of trapped water between beach and sandbars
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What is the most prominent coastal land form?
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beach
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What are spits?
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Linear sand deposits with one end linking the bay mouth
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What are baymouth bars
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spits linked across the baymouth
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What are barrier islands?
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offshore ridge of sandbars roughly parallel to the coastline
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What is a tombolo
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Sand bar that connects and island to the mainland
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What is a lagoon?
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salty water body partially or completely separated from the oceans by barrier islands or baymouth bars
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sea level rise =
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coast of submergence
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sea level drop=
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coast of emergence
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Relative stable coast
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coastal deposition and organic coast
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What is a primary coast?
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Primarily shaped by terrestial processes such as River erosion & Sea level rise, Fjord Coast (Glacier erosion & sea level rise), and delta coast
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What is a secondary coast
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They are coast shaped dominantly by marine processes such as marine terraces (uplift & wave erosion), marine deposition (barrier coast), and reef coast (tropical reef)
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What are corals?
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clusters of polyps with hard external skeleton
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What type of setting or environment would you find corals?
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Clear, warm, shallow sea over continental shelf
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What latitude would you find corals
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30 degrees north to 30 degrees south
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What are common landforms of reefs
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fringe reef, barrier reef, atoll & platforms
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