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21 Cards in this Set

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The coastline

The line where the sea and land meet

The shore

A zone which lies between the high water mark and low water mark

The coast

A zone/ strip of land extending from the coastline which boarders the sea

Wave

An oscillatory movement of water due to friction of the wind along the water's surface

The Fetch

A stretch of open water over which wind blows constantly, Waves aquires energy from the wind and causes it to move in an undulating movement

Crest/ trough

Crest- top part of the wave


Trough - bottom of the wave

Wave length/Wave height

Wave length - from crest to crest


Wave height - from crest to trough

Constructive Wave

1. Long wave length


2. Small wave height


3. Spill over when breaking


4. gentle coasts


5. Widely spaced


6. Builds up the coast


7. Strong swash


8. Weak backwash


9. 7-8 times per minute

LGSSWBSW

Destructive Wave

1. Short wave length


2. Long wave height


3. Plunges over when breaking


4. Steep coasts


5. Close together


6. Erode the coast


7. Weak swash


8. Strong backwash


9. 12-14 times per minute

CEPSLSWS

Hydraulic Action

The wave erodes the shoreline

Solution/ Corrosion

Sea water dissolves soluble minerals in the rocks

Abrasion/ Corrasion

Waves throw rock fragments against the rock/shoreline therefore gauging and scraping the rock wearing it away

Attrition

Small stones and sand grains knock against eachother in the breaking waves, becoming rounded and smaller

Factors affecting Marine erosion

1. Rock hardness


2. Rock structure


3. Wave energy


4. Time


5. Man

How a wave is formed

A- circular orbit in water


B-friction distorts the circular orbital motion


C-top of wave moves faster as there is an increasingly circular orbit


D-wave begins to break


E- water rushed up the beach


F-water from the previous wave returned

Swash

When water runs up the beach (contains sand and small stones)

Backwash

When water from the shore flows back down into the sea (drags back sediments into water)

Swells

Waves that have travelled a long distance across open water

Cliffs

Corrasion/solution and hydraulic action helps in cliff formation.


The cliff is undercut by wave action as it attacks lines of weakness ( less resistant rock) in the rock face. These crevasses becomes larger causing the cliff to receed and eventually it collapses

Wave - cut platforms- how is a wave - cut platform formed

Waves break against the cliff and create a wave - cut notch. Through hydraulic action and abrasion/Corrasion the notch becomes deeper until the overlying cliff can no longer support its weight and collapse

Headlands and bays - how is a bay and headland formed?

There are alternating bands of resistant and less resistant rock. These resistant rocks stick out as headlands. The less resistant rocks are eroded to form bays. (E.g- maracas bay)